Passenger Side Power Window Does Not Respond to Switches

Tiny
JIMMER24
  • 2000 HONDA ODYSSEY
  • 15,000 MILES

The windows on my 2000 Honda Odyssey EX were unfortnately left down two nights ago and, of course, it rained. Yesterday morning I tried putting the power windows up but only the driver's side responded. Neither the master switch nor the passenger switch enabled the passenger side power window to be raised.

Here's what I've done so far to diagnose the problem:

1. Checked 20 amp Fuses for both driver and passenger PWs (Fuse # 15 & 8) located on passenger side kick panel.

2. Bought used Master and Passenger switches from junk yard. Same result: only driver PW on master worked.

3. Checked passenger PW motor via jumper from battery. Was able raise the window successfully so the motor is good.

4. Replaced PW Relay located behind fuse box on passenger side. I tried the switches and still have same result: only driver PW works via master switch.

My thought now is that the Passenger Multiplex Control Unit is the cause of the problem. Could it have gone bad in the rainstorm even though its location did not get wet? I'd like to check it but am not too handy with a multi-meter. Can you explain the meter settings I need to discover whether it is good or bad?

I hope you have enough info to point me in the right direction as I'd rather not buy a new Multiplex Control Unit before knowing if the old one's fried.

Thanks in advance for your collective guidance.

Jimmer24

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Tuesday, July 10th, 2012 AT 7:02 PM

29 Replies

Tiny
JIMMER24
  • MEMBER

P.S. - Also checked power window fuse under hood and it was good.

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Tuesday, July 10th, 2012 AT 7:22 PM
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
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So the passenger side front power window is inop?

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Tuesday, July 10th, 2012 AT 7:30 PM
Tiny
JIMMER24
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That's correct: neither master nor passenger switch allows passenger window to move up or down. Driver side PW is fine.

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Tuesday, July 10th, 2012 AT 9:45 PM
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
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Alright passengers side under dash fuse box see if the number 8 fuse 20 amp is blown. That fuse feeds power to the inop window when moving the window switch for the inop window.

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Tuesday, July 10th, 2012 AT 9:56 PM
Tiny
JIMMER24
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Already checked #8 fuse and is fine. (See my Item 1 in my first post - also shows what I've done so far.)

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Tuesday, July 10th, 2012 AT 10:09 PM
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
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Sorry about that with the key in the run position do you have power to both sides of the number 8 fuse?Also at the front passenger window switch do you have power to the blue wire with a black stripe?

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Tuesday, July 10th, 2012 AT 10:16 PM
Tiny
JIMMER24
  • MEMBER

You've now discovered my weakness in the multimeter area. I have one but need coaching on how to check the stuff you mentioned and also conduct continuity and/or resistance tests on switches. I guess I need a Volt-Ohmmeter Book for Dummies.

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Tuesday, July 10th, 2012 AT 10:21 PM
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
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Lets make things a little simpler for now do you have a test light?

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Tuesday, July 10th, 2012 AT 10:31 PM
Tiny
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We can use a test light to check the switch and trace power.

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Tuesday, July 10th, 2012 AT 10:33 PM
Tiny
JIMMER24
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Assume that I do and I'll get one if I don't have it.

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Tuesday, July 10th, 2012 AT 10:44 PM
Tiny
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Alright you know how to use a test light right?You ground thr aligator clip and use the tip to check for power if it lights up bright you have power. Use the test to check what I asked you to check. Let me know what you find.

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Tuesday, July 10th, 2012 AT 10:51 PM
Tiny
JIMMER24
  • MEMBER

Will do and circle back once I get home.

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Tuesday, July 10th, 2012 AT 10:56 PM
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
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Ok sounds good.

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Tuesday, July 10th, 2012 AT 11:00 PM
Tiny
JIMMER24
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Can I ground the clip to anything metal in the car?

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Tuesday, July 10th, 2012 AT 11:00 PM
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
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Find a good clean chunk of metal like the dash carrier etc then touch the tip of the test light to a know good power source to make sure you have a good ground. Also see if you can find a computer safe test light.

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Tuesday, July 10th, 2012 AT 11:05 PM
Tiny
JIMMER24
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Roger that.

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Tuesday, July 10th, 2012 AT 11:17 PM
Tiny
JIMMER24
  • MEMBER

Here's my update:

1. Checked all connections to drivers side power windows master switch and only two connections lit up the test light. You wanted to assess the connection associated with the blue wire with black stripe. It had NO juice. Also tested all connections with multimeter in DC Volt mode and got no readings.

2. The only connections for the master switch that lit the lamp were these 2 wires: White with gray spots & Green with white stripe.

3. Checked both fuse connections for power windows located in the kick panel on passenger side. Both are 20 amps. #8 and #15 both lit the lamp and showed voltage on multimeter.

Hope this info helps in continuing the diagnosis of the problem.

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Wednesday, July 11th, 2012 AT 3:03 PM
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
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So the number 8 fuse had power to both sides of the fuse with the key in the run position?Alright you never checked with the key in the run position the blue wire with the black stripe at the front passenger side window switch to see if it had power?If it does then move the switch to the down position the blue wire with a white stripe should have power?Then move it to the up position then the blue wire with the yellow stripe should have power?

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Wednesday, July 11th, 2012 AT 5:15 PM
Tiny
JIMMER24
  • MEMBER

OK - I'll give that a shot on the passenger side.

FYI - the test I performed on the connections to the master switch were made while the switch was detached. I'm assuming it's gotta be detached to test the wires.

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Wednesday, July 11th, 2012 AT 5:44 PM
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
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To check for the power inputs thats fine to have the switch disconneted. But it will have to be hooked up to check the passenger front door switch when checking for power when moving the switch in the up and down position. You will have to gently pierce the insulation of the wires with the meter leads or test light probe.

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Wednesday, July 11th, 2012 AT 5:51 PM

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