Brake is getting Super hot

Tiny
JESSLEE
  • MEMBER
  • 1999 DODGE DURANGO
  • 130 MILES
The rear passenger side wheel is getting super hot and smoking if I drive it have replaced brake shoes but is still doing it any ideas?
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Wednesday, January 16th, 2013 AT 8:43 PM

19 Replies

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
Yep it sounds like you have a rear wheel cylinder that is hanging up and needs to be replaced. Here is a guide to help you see what you are in for when doing the job.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-a-wheel-cylinder

And here it what it will be like you your car (below)

You will need to bleed the system as well

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-bleed-or-flush-a-car-brake-system

Check out the diagrams (Below)

Please let us know what you find.

Cheers
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Wednesday, January 16th, 2013 AT 8:54 PM
Tiny
JESSLEE
  • MEMBER
I do believe they are adjusted correctly and the park brake does not seem to be sticking so I did what you said and BAM! No more brake smoking and getting hot, Thanks you guys are the best!
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Wednesday, January 16th, 2013 AT 8:59 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
Glad you could get it fixed, that kind of problem can be tough. Please use 2CarPros anytime we are here to help.

Cheers
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Wednesday, January 16th, 2013 AT 9:05 PM
Tiny
JESSLEE
  • MEMBER
I am glad its fixed but when I installed the brakes I used a manual it looks same as that so am assuming they are on correctly. There is a noise that is fairly constant when driven so am guessing it could be a bad axle bearing I believe you have to have that bearing pressed out and new one in though am I correct? Any ways to actually check the bearing?
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Wednesday, January 16th, 2013 AT 9:10 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
You have to remove the rear axle to get to the axle bearings. One way to determine if you have a bad bearing is when turning, the sound chances. If you are only hearing a very slight noise, I don't know if that would cause it to heat up enough to smoke. Make sure the differential is full of gear lube. That is what lubes the bearing.

Are you able to take a pic of the brakes and upload them for me to see? I still feel something is wrong there. Are the hold down clips secured?
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Thursday, January 17th, 2013 AT 1:33 AM
Tiny
JESSLEE
  • MEMBER
Iwill get a picture of it in the morning and upload it for you to see I had wondered about the differential lube will check thatas well
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Thursday, January 17th, 2013 AT 1:40 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
That is easy to check. There is a rubber plug on the back of the diff. The gear lube should be to the top of the plug opening. Let me know and I will take a look at the pics and hopefully find the problem.
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Thursday, January 17th, 2013 AT 1:50 AM
Tiny
JESSLEE
  • MEMBER
Thanks a bunch fir the help ill get you the pics and get the diff lube checked,
thanks, jessica
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Thursday, January 17th, 2013 AT 1:55 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
Glad to help.
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Thursday, January 17th, 2013 AT 2:02 AM
Tiny
JESSLEE
  • MEMBER
Heres the pics also taking the drum off sure felt like brakes were stuck. The brakes were bought through parts america part#NB 723 looked them up and they are a fit for my dango however the self adjuster was all the way out when removed drum so am going to replace it and readjust see what happens also is way lkw on gear lube in diff so am going to fill it up the noise doesn't ever change when driving so dont suspect the bearing but the shaft if grab the hub assembly does have quite a bit of wiggle play is that normal? Well the engine is the mag 318 I believe it is vin is y if that helps. As far as the jeep comment I am a dodge kinda girl but jeeps are awesome 4x4
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Thursday, January 17th, 2013 AT 6:16 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
FINALLY! SOMEONE THAT LIKES DODGE TRUCKS. Take that CJ. No jeep, Dodge!

Let us keep discussing. We will figure this out. Also, do you remember if you had an option of different brake sizes?
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Friday, January 18th, 2013 AT 8:14 PM
Tiny
JESSLEE
  • MEMBER
No was no option for different sizes. Typically any idea as to how far the auto adjuster should extend bcause when pulled hub off this time it was pretty much all the way extended seemed a lil drastic in my opinion. I was thinking that iam going to loosen the park brake cable as well just incase there is an issue with it who need an e-brake right haha
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Friday, January 18th, 2013 AT 10:12 PM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • EXPERT
The e-brake does not look like its engaged at all in the pics---i'd leave it alone!

Let's get the drum on and the shoes adjusted. As the jeep feller has prescribed in earlier reply.

Then snatch the drum back off and shoot us a pic of the adjuster

you can't pay attention to the yankee feller (j&n). He tells me them dodges sorta just rust away.I ain't lyin'. He did admit to that!

Better get you a jeep---before yours rusts away and there ain't no trade in value left!

Let's see a pic

the medic
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Saturday, January 19th, 2013 AT 3:13 AM
Tiny
JESSLEE
  • MEMBER
K nope am dodge all theway and will do brake in am
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Saturday, January 19th, 2013 AT 6:05 AM
Tiny
TANK ON PATROL
  • MEMBER
  • 1998 DODGE DURANGO
  • V8
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 115,000 MILES
Brakes problem
1998 Dodge Durango V8 Four Wheel Drive Automatic 115000 miles

We were recently on our way home from a vacation. We hit some traffic and the weather was warm. We were a couple of miles from our exit and started to smell hot brakes through the vents. Pulled the vehicle over when we exited and noticed a small amount of smoke coming from the front left. Since we had made the reverse trip 3 days prior with no problems, I'm not sure what to think. The vehicle isn't driven very often and the pads were replaced a few summers ago. There were no signs of brake failure or any pulling to one side, etc. We had about 20 miles of stop and go traffic and the temp. Was around 92 degress. This is warm for our neck of the woods, but not outrageous. Has anyone experienced something similar to this?
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Monday, December 18th, 2017 AT 9:03 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MEMBER
Sounds like the brake on that side is dragging could be due to the caliper piston not retracting
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Monday, December 18th, 2017 AT 9:03 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • EXPERT
Also, based on the comment "it's not driven very often", don't overlook a constricted front rubber hose. Rust builds up inside the bracket that holds the center of the hose. The growing buildup squeezes the hose. You can peel the crimp open slightly with a channel lock pliers to solve the problem. There's plenty of fluid pressure from the brake pedal to easily get past the restriction to apply the brake, but very little pressure to push the fluid back so it keeps the piston applied. As that brake caliper and the fluid inside it gets warm, the fluid expands which increases the pressure and heat buildup.

If this is the cause of one sticking caliper, the vehicle will not move on its own when sitting in neutral on a slight incline. It might move freely after a minute or two after the trapped brake fluid seeps out of the constricted hose. Another test is to jack the front end up, pump the brake pedal a couple of times, then look for the wheel that won't spin freely. Open the bleeder screw on that caliper. If you see a little spurt of fluid and the wheel spins easily, the hose is constricted. If the wheel still doesn't release, suspect rust or dirt buildup on the caliper piston causing it to not retract properly. Rebuilt calipers are so inexpensive today, it doesn't pay to rebuild one yourself.

One word of warning. If you replace a caliper or hose and want to bleed the air out of the system, just open the bleeder screw, loosen one cap on the reservoir, and let it gravity bleed for a minute or two until fluid drips from the screw. Finger-tighten the screw, stroke the pedal a few times by hand to irritate any air bubbles and push them into the caliper, then open the bleeder screw one more time and watch the few little remaining bubbles come out. Some people insist on pedal-bleeding with a helper. That works too if you need to do all four wheels in a hurry, but absolutely NEVER, never, ever push the pedal all the way to the floor. With high mileage vehicles, you will do permanent damage to the master cylinder. The two pistons with their lip seals only run in the upper half of their bores. Crud and corrosion build up in the lower halves. When you push the pedal to the floor, you run the lip seals over that crud and rip them. This results in a pedal that slowly sinks to the floor when you hold steady pressure on it. In many cases, the rebuild kit costs more than a rebuilt master cylinder.

If you have to replace the master cylinder, there is an easy trick that prevents the need to bleed at any of the wheels. It can all be done in a minute or two right at the lines coming out of the master cylinder.

Caradiodoc
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Monday, December 18th, 2017 AT 9:03 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BRIENNA1
  • MEMBER
  • 2000 DODGE DURANGO
  • 199,567 MILES
A rubber burning smell coming thru the vents when you hit the brakes and the heater is on its a 5.2 and a 2 wheel drive
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Monday, December 18th, 2017 AT 9:03 PM (Merged)
Tiny
FIXITMR
  • MEMBER
Does the heater vent change positions floor/center/defrost when this happens?
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Monday, December 18th, 2017 AT 9:03 PM (Merged)

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