No spark again

Tiny
SKSILVER
  • MEMBER
  • 1999 CHRYSLER SEBRING
  • 158 MILES
Okay here goes. First had the radiator replaced because of a major leak, then week later fluid was leaking, changed the o-rings in the water pump inlet tube, changed distributors because mine was bad, put car back together and had no spark. Towed car to someone else and had another leak and changed the water pump. Then when putting timing belt back on bent the valves and put a different head on car the car and everything is back on the car, but now there is no spark again and the distributor that put on is no longer good. Checked the crank sensor and map sensor and I think another sensor (can't remember which one). So my question is what could it be or what could have made 2 distributor coils go bad that quick? Please help, my friends have been working on this car for two weeks and they are really stressed out and so am I.
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Wednesday, August 7th, 2013 AT 9:38 AM

44 Replies

Tiny
SKSILVER
  • MEMBER
I forgot to say that there is no spark and no fuel, but the fuel pump works and there is fuel pressure in the motor, but no fuel in the cylinders and no spark!
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Wednesday, August 7th, 2013 AT 9:59 AM
Tiny
HMAC300
  • EXPERT
Scan for codes, and check fuelpressure with a gauge first. Check fuses under hood as well.
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Thursday, August 8th, 2013 AT 8:43 AM
Tiny
SKSILVER
  • MEMBER
Thank you, they cleaned the crank sensor and now the car is running (like crap) and now they are going to scan for codes and check the fuses. At the beginning of this car project before all of the problems, we had taken parts off another car (same size engine) and my car is a chrysler sebring and the car we took parts off of was a chrysler cirrus. We changed distributors, but then put mine back. We changed sensors (IAC, MAP, MAF, Crank, Cam, TPS) and changed the throttle body and the heads. The car sounds and runs terrible and could be that some of the sensors that we changed weren't good. Who knows. But we are going to put scan for codes again and as soon as I get it running decent, I'm selling it, because I still need a heater core and blower motor and that's a lot more money and time consuming. I want to thank everyone again for your help and replys.
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Thursday, August 8th, 2013 AT 3:10 PM
Tiny
ETHAN EDEN
  • MEMBER
  • 1999 CHRYSLER SEBRING
  • 2.5L
  • V6
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 130,000 MILES
I picked up this car from Pennsylvania drove home to Ohio got home it was a good two hundred mile drive about two and a half hours, but got it home let the car sit for a few hours then went for another drive and as I was driving it just dies like its out of gas putters to a stop I hit gas it wont go putters some more then dies then it would be hard to get started, but it would just putter. I let car sit walk home then the next day I get it towed home to start working on it I check fuel spark and compression it got fuel but no spark and the compression is good. Would that mean crank sensor or distributed or cam sensor or what?
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Saturday, December 21st, 2019 AT 12:21 PM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • EXPERT
Scan for codes and try resetting security system if no manual look online on how to do it. you can also check fuel pressure with a gauge auto parts rent. it.https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator
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Saturday, December 21st, 2019 AT 12:21 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ETHAN EDEN
  • MEMBER
Okay so I got spark I changed distributor and crank sensor now I got spark and I think the timing is off now because I will start it and it will automatically rev all the way up to redline by itself would that mean that its out of time and how would I get it back in tme
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Saturday, December 21st, 2019 AT 12:21 PM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • EXPERT
You can't adjust the timing the pcm does check for a vacuum leak and scan for codes along with what I already sent. Make sure you don't have any broken throttle cables if any
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Saturday, December 21st, 2019 AT 12:21 PM (Merged)
Tiny
SKSILVER
  • MEMBER
  • 1999 CHRYSLER SEBRING
  • 158 MILES
First off, I replaced my radiator a few weeks ago cuz it was leaking then last week it was losing coolant level really fast (i know the heater core has been out since I had the car but wasn't real bad). I am using parts off of a 99 Chrysler Cirrus 2.5 l v6 engine and this is what has been done so far:
Replaced the water pipe O rings and that fixed the leak.
Swapped distributors.
Swapped IAC
Car started miss firing - spark plug wires were mixed up so fixed that and then ran fine.
Played with throttle - idle up/idle down, ran it up and let off. The car died and now has no spark.
The injectors have voltage, but car won't run.

What did we maybe do wrong?
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Saturday, December 21st, 2019 AT 12:21 PM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • EXPERT
Check fuses underhood then scan for codes
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Saturday, December 21st, 2019 AT 12:21 PM (Merged)
Tiny
SKSILVER
  • MEMBER
Thank you. I will tell my friend that right away.
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Saturday, December 21st, 2019 AT 12:21 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CHRISD92679
  • MEMBER
  • 1999 CHRYSLER SEBRING
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 90,000 MILES
My car turns over but produces no spark
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Saturday, December 21st, 2019 AT 12:21 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • EXPERT
Measure the voltage on the dark green / orange wire to the distributor, any injector, or either small wire on the back of the alternator. You should see full battery voltage there for just one second after turning on the ignition switch. What's important is the voltage must come back during engine cranking. You can use a test light or a voltmeter to see if that voltage is there.

Caradiodoc
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Saturday, December 21st, 2019 AT 12:21 PM (Merged)
Tiny
GILBOY2009
  • MEMBER
  • 1998 CHRYSLER SEBRING
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 150,000 MILES
I'm not getting a spark from the distributor, my security light stay on when cranking the car. Please help
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Saturday, December 21st, 2019 AT 12:21 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
I hate to say this, but if the security light is staying on, the system has shut down the engine. Now the part I hate to say, the dealer is the only place that will have the proper test equipment to diagnose the problem.

Let me know if you have specific questions. If you have a spare key, try it to see if it makes a difference.

Thanks for using 2carpros. Com.

Joe
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Saturday, December 21st, 2019 AT 12:21 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RAYRAYBABYBOI13
  • MEMBER
  • 1998 CHRYSLER SEBRING
  • 2.5L
  • 6 CYL
  • AUTOMATIC
Ok so this is the third time my car has stalled out on me now. I'm thinking that something is gettin knocked loose when I am driving n that's why it stalls out. The first time it stalled out we played under the hood for hrs lookin at it. It wasn't gettin any spark, then my dad bumped into me and we pushed it home. The second I got it in the Parkin spot I turned it over and it started right up. Oh by the way when it stalls out the engine will crank over forever until finally the battery dies. The second time it happened I played wit every wire I could find to see if maybe one was loose but no luck there it still wouldn't start. So my dad came n was gonna bump me home again with his truck. This time while he was pushing me I turned the the ignition over and it started right up. I've been told loose maybe a loose wire to the camshaft or crankshaft, maybe I need a new distributor cap, that it could possible be the crankshaft sensor goin in and out that why it stated when my dad pushed me. I don't have a clue about electrical and could really use some help.
Thanks
Ray-ray
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Saturday, December 21st, 2019 AT 12:21 PM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • EXPERT
Scan for codes and check fuel pressure with a gauge first autoparts rent it
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Saturday, December 21st, 2019 AT 12:21 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RAYRAYBABYBOI13
  • MEMBER
So the only code that comes up is the o2 sensor
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Saturday, December 21st, 2019 AT 12:21 PM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • EXPERT
Check fuses underhood and your automatic shutdown relay also do you have fuel pressure?
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Saturday, December 21st, 2019 AT 12:21 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RAYRAYBABYBOI13
  • MEMBER
All the fuses r fine and as far as fuel pressure I'm not sure becuz the parts store didn't have one to rent out. About six months ago I wasn't getting a positive connection to the automatic shutoff relay so I bypassed it wit a wire goin from the postive battery cable to the automatic shutoff relay. My car broke down at a friends house n they do not have a light tester so I can double check it but I will make sure the wire is still in there good n see if she starts after that
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Saturday, December 21st, 2019 AT 12:21 PM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • EXPERT
If you jumped it that may be the problem have a local pro look at this as it may be a fuse box problem I have no further suggestions
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Saturday, December 21st, 2019 AT 12:21 PM (Merged)

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