1998 Camry occasional stalls/mechanics confused

Tiny
COLUMBUSERIC
  • MEMBER
  • 1998 TOYOTA CAMRY
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 158 MILES
Hi There -

I've been having something of a mystery with my 1998 Toyota Camry (4Cyl). Any time I drive for more than 30 mins, the car will occasionally stall out when I come to a stop. If I wait 5 mins and then start it back up, it runs fine again. I've taken it to a mechanic and they haven't been able to replicate the issue, and there are no error codes popping up. They suggested it might be the distributor cap going bad. The car has 150K+ miles, and I keep it regularly maintained. Any ideas?
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Wednesday, December 15th, 2010 AT 10:14 PM

7 Replies

Tiny
HMAC300
  • EXPERT
Try cleaning the throttle plate with choke cleaner. These sometimes get oil on them and get sticky. The car may be hard to start aafter doing this.
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Wednesday, December 15th, 2010 AT 11:29 PM
Tiny
BMRFIXIT
  • EXPERT
Turn ignition off. Disconnect IAC valve connector. IAC valve is located in front of throttle body at 6 o'clock position. Using ohmmeter, measure resistance between terminal No. 2 and terminals No. 1 and 3 at IAC valve. If resistance is not 17-25 ohms (cold) or 22-29 ohms (hot), replace IAC valve. If resistance is 17-25 ohms (cold) or 22-29 ohms (hot), remove and clean.
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Wednesday, December 15th, 2010 AT 11:30 PM
Tiny
COLUMBUSERIC
  • MEMBER
So, I took it to a local mechanic, and again they weren't able to recreate the problem, and no error codes showed up. They checked the IAC valve and cleaned the throttle plate, but I am still having the issue with the same frequency. Help!
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Monday, December 20th, 2010 AT 9:13 PM
Tiny
WRENCHTECH
  • EXPERT
Is this car starting back up immediately or do you have to wait at all before it will restart?
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Monday, December 20th, 2010 AT 9:51 PM
Tiny
COLUMBUSERIC
  • MEMBER
I usually have to wait about 5-10 mins before it will start back up again.
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Monday, December 20th, 2010 AT 11:45 PM
Tiny
WRENCHTECH
  • EXPERT
Then you have an issue other than the idle control. This has to be treated as a "crank, no start". Here is the way that has to be approached.

All "crank, no start" conditions are approached in the same way. Every engine requires certain functions to be able to run. Some of these functions rely on specific components to work and some components are part of more than one function so it is important to see the whole picture to be able to conclude anything about what may have failed. Also, these functions can ONLY be tested during the failure. Any other time and they will simply test good because the problem isn't present at the moment.
If you approach this in any other way, you are merely guessing and that only serves to replace unnecessary parts and wastes money.

Every engine requires spark, fuel and compression to run. That's what we have to look for.

These are the basics that need to be tested and will give us the info required to isolate a cause.

1) Test for spark at the plug end of the wire using a spark tester. If none found, check for power supply on the + terminal of the coil with the key on.

2) Test for injector pulse using a small bulb called a noid light. If none found, check for power supply at one side of the injector with the key on.

3) Use a fuel pressure gauge to test for correct fuel pressure, also noticing if the pressure holds when key is shut off.

4) If all of these things check good, then you would need to do a complete compression test.

Once you have determined which of these functions has dropped out,
you will know which system is having the problem.
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Monday, December 20th, 2010 AT 11:48 PM
Tiny
WRENCHTECH
  • EXPERT
You can forget about the compression test part of that. I should have deleted that portion in your case.
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Monday, December 20th, 2010 AT 11:50 PM

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