1998 Mitsubishi Montero Engine Swap Proceedures

Tiny
KHLOW2008
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Engine mounts are different and so are subframes.
I don't think there are any specialist on such works and it would depend on where you are located. Check oyt the local parts stores for any recvommendations. They would be the best person to recommend any place.

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Wednesday, May 23rd, 2012 AT 1:55 PM
Tiny
MARCELUSS
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Hi Blaze
I am going to what you've been through. I am replacing the engine on my 1998 minstubishi montero Sport. I put close to 240,000 miles on it. I got a japanese engine with roughly 50,000 miles on it.
I would really apreccieate some guidance. I could not find anything on the internet about engine swapping.
Here is where I am right now:
1. I detached everything from the engine (electrical wires, tubes etc)
2. Took down the starter, detached the AC pump and the steering wheel pump. (Left the AC pump and the steering wheel pump connected to the frame)
3. Took the colant radiator down.
4. The engine is still on its supports. I need to detached the engine from transmission, how do I access all the bolts the are connecting the engine to transmission? A previous answer to your post, suggested lowering the front axle. How far did you lowered it?
Thanks a lor.

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Sunday, January 20th, 2013 AT 3:53 AM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
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You would need to get under vehicle and remove the cover on transmission just after the engine. Once cover is removed, you need to remove the bolts holding the flex plate and torque converter.
After removal of the bolts, push the torque converter as far back as possible.
Remove the bolts holding the engnine and transmission and use a floor jack to support the transmission. You might need to jack up the transmission as you hoist the engine up. Once engine is off the mounts, ( I presume you have removed the bolts) you can separate the engine from trans and pull it slightly forward for lifting it out.
.

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Wednesday, January 23rd, 2013 AT 5:48 PM
Tiny
MARCELUSS
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I did all this, and now I am stuck at the two top bolts that hold the engine to the transmision. I am thinking to release the engine from its supports. That would probably give me a few inches so I can access the two top bolts. Other than that, everything seems to be going smooth so far.

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Thursday, January 24th, 2013 AT 4:25 AM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
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Hang the engine with the host. Remove the engine mounts and lower the hoist to gain the space. If you have a flexible coupling socket, you might be able to get to the bolts. Space is tight but manageable.

Reinstall and tighten the 2 bolts at both side of engione block and transmission first. This would allow the upper bolts to be easily removed after loosenning. Failure to do so would result in engine and trans trying to break free of each other and this would hamper the bolt removal.

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Thursday, January 24th, 2013 AT 2:59 PM
Tiny
MARCELUSS
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Thank you KHLow2008. I did just that. I was abble to get the two top bolts after I lowered the engine. Today I finally got the engine out. It came out with the converter from the tranny. Any good suggestion how to put the engine back on? Ofcourse it is going to be the reverse process :).
Again, advice very much appreciated.

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Friday, January 25th, 2013 AT 11:26 PM
Tiny
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You have to reinstall the torque converter onto the thransmission and ensure it is seated as far back as possible. You need to rotate the torque converter and at the same time lift it to allow it to slip into position. Failure to do so would damage the transmission.

When engine is seated back, ensure it slots in fully and becomes flush with transmission. Do not try to force it in as improper seating of torque converter would cause that. After tightening the engine to transmission bolts and making sure the engine and transmission is flush, turn the torque converter manually. It should turn freely and there should be a gap in between torque converter and flexplate.

You might need to lower or raise the transmission while trying to slot the engine in.

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Saturday, January 26th, 2013 AT 1:37 PM
Tiny
BLAZE45
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Make sure to detach the flexplate from the torque converter when you re install everything. Flexplate bolted to the engine, torque converter seated as deep as it will go into the transmission. I would add some fluid to the torque converter myself while it is off unless you didn't spill any during removal.

You CANNOT leave the torque converter on the engine while trying to re install it. There is no way you can get the converter to slide into the tranny while the converter is still attached to the engine during re installation of the engine.

Good luck.

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Saturday, January 26th, 2013 AT 5:29 PM
Tiny
MARCELUSS
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How do I acces the bolts on the torque converter, after I put the engine on?

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Saturday, January 26th, 2013 AT 8:21 PM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
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I mentioned getting to the bolts from bottom of engine, after removal of the service cover plate.

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Sunday, January 27th, 2013 AT 6:18 AM
Tiny
BLAZE45
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I got them back on by going through the hole where the starter bolts up. Had to get a long wrench and then rotated the crank to get some pressure on em.

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Monday, January 28th, 2013 AT 6:50 AM
Tiny
MARCELUSS
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Thanks. I will try that.

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Tuesday, January 29th, 2013 AT 3:19 AM
Tiny
MARCELUSS
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Blaze

Thank you for all your tips. They heIped. I finaly got the engine going. It sarted very easy after a few cranks. Passed the DEQ (after I tried to pass it 7 times, trying all kind of tricks) and it runs smooth like a champ. Took me couple of weeks, working few hrs a day, and two full days in two weekends.
I am not a mechanic. I am more a computer "geek" (fixing computers, building websites both design and content). Did some mechanical work with father when I was younger. I am kind of fix-it all kind of a guy.
This project was hard but the fun came at the end when I heard the new engine running.

Some of the tips I've learned from this, not necessary in the order they happened. Hope it will help somebody out there. I could not find any clear instructions how to swap an engine on a mitsubishi montero sport. Here you go

- you need extra tools. I found Hrbourfreight very usefull and cheap for this project.

- you need an good hoist (a 2000 lb one is good). Found out from the delivery guy that delivered the new engine, that the engine alone is about 400 lb.
- disconnect the battery and disconect all the electrical wires. Leave the main electrical line on the car.
- Leave the steering wheel pump, AC pump, alternator and starter on venicle, dismount only from the engine.

- take the radiator out.
- take the front weels off and the protective plastic cover from both sides (between the weels and the body of the vehicle). You will need full access to both sides of the engine.
- remove the exhaust first, remove the metal bar from under the car, the one that supports the transmission (it has 4 bolts pus another bolt that supports the tranny) for easier access
- take the access door that is over the oil pan (at first I thought there are two oil pans :) ) and access the the torque converter connection bolts. Remove all the bolts from the flexplate.

- find and unscrue all the bolts that connect the engine with the tranny (there are two upper bolts that are very difficult to acces, on the top: lower the engine a little, after you disconnect it from the two supports. It helps to disconnect the transmission from the main metal bar that supports the transmission)

- use the intake manifold system from the old engine, on the new engine. After you open it clean it with B2 spray cleaner. Replace all the gaskets when possible.
- When taking the old engine out, it is good ideea to lift the transmission up with a jack.
- If you happened to take out the old engine with the torque connvertor on, do not worry, there are plenty of youtube videos on how to put it back.

- once you take the intake manifold down, change the sparkplugs and cables.
- use the old exhaust manifolds from the old engine. Change the gaskets too.
- put all the fluids in. I changed the motor oil the next day. It was rusty collor. Probably the new engine sat for a while.

- when you fill it up with coolant, make sure you prime it. There is a bolt for that near the oil intake (the thing you put the motor oil through)
- I added some SPIII mitsubishi tranny fluid. About a quart and something. Than the next day, I changed it all, after I ran to the DEQ and back
- changed the gas filter too.

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Saturday, February 16th, 2013 AT 6:09 PM

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