ODD PEDAL ACTION AND VIBRATION AFTER CLUTCH REPLACEMENT
1998 Honda Accord
June, 11, 2012 AT 8:25 PM
1998 Honda Accord EX 4D Sedan / 2.3L 4-cyl / 5-spd MT / 143,000 mi
I just had the original factory clutch replaced (including a new flywheel), and there are a couple of problems:
1. All of the engagement/disengagement occurs in the top 3-4 inches of pedal travel. The remaining travel, down to the floor, does nothing. I can shift gears by pushing the pedal only ~1/3 of the way down. Also, pedal effort is much lighter than before (fine with me, just different). Are these conditions normal for a new clutch? If not, what was done wrong?
2. There's a vibration/chatter in the clutch when you try to make a normal, smooth start. With a lot of revs and fast engagement, it's smooth. The vibration isn't bad, but it's noticeable. It seems worse in reverse than in 1st. I've also felt it when shifting from 1st to 2nd, but not to higher gears. What could be causing this? What's the fix?
Note that there were several other problems with the repair, so it won't surprise me if the clutch installation was screwed up too. The mechanic was subsequently fired by the shop, and I'm still trying to get the rest of the job done right.
1. I'd say it's normal as there is more material on the disc now. As long as you have like 1/8-1/4" free play don't worry about it. 2. Sometimes a pilot isn't used when clutch is installed and gets bent a tad. Try applying brake and letting clutch out with higher revs, sometimes this straightens that out.
June, 12, 2012 AT 10:18 PM
1. "Normal" seems to be the concensus from everyone I've asked. Does "free play" mean that I should be able to push the pedal 1/8-1/4" before it starts to disengage?
2. What part are you saying might have been bent? Do you mean that I should set the parking brake and try to pull away?
June, 12, 2012 AT 11:38 PM
You could use the parking brake but normally I use the regular brake pedaland use the heel of my foot to gas, kinda complicated but it can be done. What you do is try to burnor harden up the material a little to stop the vibration andstop teh chattering on the clutch. What free play means is you should be able to push it down iwth your finger before you feel any pressure on the pedal. The part that i'm saying may be bent and i'm only talking fractions of ainch here is the clutch disc the piece that is between the flywheel and pressure plate.
June, 13, 2012 AT 2:05 AM
WITH YOUR CLUTCH ENGAGING AS YOU REACH THE TOP---BUT STILL HAVING THE INCH OR SO "FREE ZONE" AFTER THE PRESSURE PLATE IS FULLY "DOWN", IS EXACTLY WHAT I'VE SEEN SUGGESTED IN MOST OF THE REPAIR MANUALS FOR OTHER VEHICLES.
MY DAD WAS SET IN HIS WAYS, AND WANTED HIS, JUST LIKE YOU ARE USED TO, IN HIS TRUCK.
I PREFER IT THE OTHER WAY ---I CAN "SENSE" POSSIBLE BAD CHANGES IN MY LINKAGE/ CLUTCH SYSTEM. MY INCH OF FREE PLAY, MIGHT TURN INTO 2 INCHES.I HAVE SOMETHING TO MEASURE/GAUGE BY (A SHORTER DISTANCE)
IF THIS DISTANCE CHANGED, FOR INSTANCE "WEAR"(SET UP LIKE YOU LIKE IT) YOU MAY NOT BE ABLE TO FULLY DISENGAGE THE PRESSURE PLATE, AS YOU ARE ALREADY CLOSE TO THE FLOOR, THERE IS NO ROOM LEFT TO PUSH
WHEN YOU HAVE SO MUCH "BUFFER" WITH THE PEDAL DOWN, AS COMPARED TO JUST A LITTLE "BUFFER" BEFORE YOUR VEHICLE STARTS MOVING. THIS "EXTRA TRAVEL" IS A BLESSING WHEN YOUR LEGS AND FEET ARE FATIGUED AND YOU ACCIDENTALLY "LET UP" WHEN YOU ARE CRAMMED IN TRAFFIC.
AS FAR AS THE EZness OF LIFTING THE PRESSURE PLATE, IT COULD BE FROM THE LINKAGES BEING LUBED DURING CLUTCH INSTALLATION/// THE DESIGN OR BUILT IN LEVERAGE OF THE NEW PRESSURE PLATE/// WITH MY CURRENT '77 CJ 5, IT MADE A TREMENDOUS DIFFERENCE IN AN EZer TO PUSH PEDAL WHEN I OPTED TO INSTALL A "DIAPHRAGM TYPE PRESSURE PLATE", INSTEAD OF GOING BACK WITH THE OLD 3 ARM TYPE