1997 Nissan Truck Electrical problems on 97 Nissan Pickup

Tiny
JOERAMBO
  • MEMBER
  • 1997 NISSAN TRUCK
  • 1.4L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • MANUAL
  • 190,000 MILES
Started out with what I thought to be battery problems so I changed battery it cranked but after one day I noticed battery getting weak so I assumed alternator bad, changed out alternator charged battery and then had nothing. Lights would work but nothing else would not crank or even turn over. Kept fooling with cables and finally it cranked. Now nothing else works turn signals, tack, a/c, blower all nothing. Head lights and radio are all that work. I removed pos battery cable with it running it killed it so now I'm totally confused. I desperately need to fix have spent money I didn't need to spend and don't know what to even look for now. If you can give any advice it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Do you
have the same problem?
Yes
No
Friday, December 26th, 2014 AT 3:18 PM

3 Replies

Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • EXPERT
AGGGGHHHH!

DO NOT DISCONNECT ANY CABLE WITH THE ENGINE RUNNING!

Every year I did a demonstration on the generator test bench for my students to show what can happen when you do that. It was real easy for the voltage to reach over 35 volts. That WILL destroy any computer on the vehicle, the generator's internal diodes and built-in voltage regulator, and any light bulbs that are turned on.

The thinking is that if you disconnect either cable and the engine stays running, the generator must be working but a lot of them will stop working due to the voltage regulator responding to the dips in the "ripple" voltage being produced. That will make a perfectly good generator appear to be bad so that test is not valid.

If a mechanic is caught pulling this stunt he will typically get one verbal warning. For the second offense he will be fired. It's that big a deal.

Some generators respond to the high points in the ripple. That momentary higher voltage goes right back to the field winding and creates a stronger magnetic field. That stronger electromagnet creates a higher output voltage which again creates a stronger electromagnet. It's a vicious circle and voltage can keep on rising until something gives out. The main thing that smoothes out that ripple so it doesn't affect the voltage regulator or the generator is the battery.

Three things are needed to generate the output current. They are a magnet, (electromagnet, in this case), a coil of wire, and most importantly, movement between them. That's why the belt needs to make it spin. One thing that can save you from doing damage by removing a battery cable is not raising engine speed. Generators are relatively inefficient at low engine speeds and their output voltage is less likely to rise to dangerous levels, ... As long as you don't raise engine speed.

One other thing to keep in mind is batteries give off explosive hydrogen gas. Regardless if your generator is working or not there is going to be a big spark when you remove a battery cable with the engine running. Either the generator's current will be recharging the battery, and that can be up to 20 amps, or the battery is going to be supplying the car's electrical systems, and that can easily be over 30 amps. That kind of current is going to create a big spark when a connection is broken or reconnected. Small arc welders run as low as 40 - 60 amps and look at the sparks they create. The reason we don't hear about more battery explosions is because people are careful to not disconnect the cables when there is current flowing through them. It's also why there are huge warning labels on all battery chargers to be sure they are turned off before connecting or disconnecting them from the battery.

Another common generator problem is one defective diode out of the six. You will lose exactly two thirds of the generator's capacity but system voltage will remain normal or it could even be just a little high from the voltage regulator responding to the greatly increased dips in the ripple voltage.

It's always a good idea to wear safety glasses when working around car batteries, but if you still insist on removing a cable while the engine is running, a face shield makes more sense, and have plenty of water on hand to wash any acid off the vehicle's paint.

Ford used to have a really nice generator design that allowed testing right on the back of the unit. Only Chrysler alternators are easier to diagnose. Unfortunately the engineers don't really care about ease of service on GMs and many other brands.

The way you tell if the charging system is working is to measure the battery voltage while the engine is running. It must be between 13.75 and 14.75 volts. There still could be a bad diode though. You need a professional load tester to test for that. Ripple will be very high and the most output current you will get will be one third of the generator's design value. That is not enough to meet the demands of the electrical system under all conditions so the battery will have to make up the difference, until it runs down. You still could have a generator problem. Either have it load-tested or use a home battery charger to fully charge your battery at a slow rate for an hour.

Also be aware that it's fairly common for a few fuses to blow simply from reconnecting the battery. That's due to the computer memory circuits charging up. Check in the fuse boxes inside and under the hood. Given the intermittent nature of some of the symptoms, follow the smaller positive battery wire to the under-hood fuse box and be sure that connection is clean and tight. Working loose is a common problem on all car brands.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
-2
Friday, December 26th, 2014 AT 3:28 PM
Tiny
JOERAMBO
  • MEMBER
Thanks for the info on removing cables while running. I did check voltage while running and it was only 12.2 volts the battery was reading 12.65 when I hooked it back up so I'm still at a lose for why everything on the dash stopped working. Can't find a blown fuse. Clueless!
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, December 26th, 2014 AT 9:10 PM
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • EXPERT
Did you check the connection of the positive wire to the under-hood fuse box? That would explain the dead electrical system but not the 12.2 volts from the charging system. I'm going to have to dig up a service manual for your wiring diagram, then we can make some checks on the wires feeding the generator.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Saturday, December 27th, 2014 AT 4:22 PM

Please login or register to post a reply.

Recommended Guides