Nope. I'm referring to the solenoid on the starter where you're working. The part on the fender is the starter relay but it is the same part that was used years earlier as the solenoid. It still has the two large copper studs and will work as the solenoid on older vehicles, but you'll see that in your application it still has the large battery cable connected to one stud, but on the other stud there's just a small wire going down to the solenoid on the starter. I suspect Ford used these high-current switches in your medium-current circuit because they had a ton of them in stock to use up.
Going on your original description of the problem, it sounds like the relay, (the solenoid on the fender), is clicking so we know that low-current circuit from the ignition switch is good. For the time being we can assume the high-current circuit is okay because you got the starter motor to spin. That leaves the medium-current circuit as the one with the problem. That starts at the relay contacts, goes through the small red wire on the second large stud, to the small terminal on the starter solenoid, and includes the two coils of wire inside the solenoid.
I'm not sure what kind of test you're doing but nothing can have any voltage anywhere if a battery cable is disconnected. If you're getting a reading you are probably using an auto-ranging meter and it's picking up some stray magnetic interference, and it's reading a few hundredths of a volt. There's two ways to test the medium-current circuit. The first is to activate the relay by having a helper turn the ignition switch to "crank", or by connecting a jumper wire from the battery positive post or large relay stud to the smaller stud. When it engages, measure the voltage at the other large stud, (with the small red wire), or use a test light on it. You must find 12 volts there when it is switched on. Next, measure that voltage at the small terminal on the starter solenoid. The wire has to be connected for the measurement to be accurate. If you have voltage there but the starter solenoid doesn't engage, the solenoid is bad.
You can also apply 12 volts to the small solenoid terminal like I mentioned earlier. That will make it engage and the starter motor should crank the engine. You can get that 12 volts from the large stud on top of the solenoid that has the battery cable bolted to it.
Wednesday, April 18th, 2018 AT 10:06 AM