1996 S-10

Tiny
EMS01950
  • MEMBER
  • 1996 CHEVROLET S-10
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 198,000 MILES
I have a 1996 chevy s10 pick up. I was driving it on day and it just died on me with no warning. After about 15 min it started and ran fine for a few days. I was on my way to work and it died again. This time it took a few days before it would restart. I drove it home and it has not run since. It has been about 3 weeks. Today have replaced the fuel pump the coil the distributer cap and rotor and the ignition modual and still wont start. Please I will take any help you can give.
Sunday, November 28th, 2010 AT 6:57 PM

2 Replies

Tiny
JDL
  • MECHANIC
  • 16,098 POSTS
If it cranks good but won't start, have a helper crank it, while you visually check for spark at the plugs. Use a gage and check fuel pressure. Any applicable trouble codes? Loss of rpm signal could be an issue?
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Sunday, November 28th, 2010 AT 7:49 PM
Tiny
WRENCHTECH
  • MECHANIC
  • 20,757 POSTS
All "crank, no start" conditions are approached in the same way. Every engine requires certain functions to be able to run. Some of these functions rely on specific components to work and some components are part of more than one function so it is important to see the whole picture to be able to conclude anything about what may have failed. Also, these functions can ONLY be tested during the failure. Any other time and they will simply test good because the problem isn't present at the moment.
If you approach this in any other way, you are merely guessing and that only serves to replace unnecessary parts and wastes money.

Every engine requires spark, fuel and compression to run. That's what we have to look for.

These are the basics that need to be tested and will give us the info required to isolate a cause.

1) Test for spark at the plug end of the wire using a spark tester. If none found, check for power supply on the + terminal of the coil with the key on.

2) Test for injector pulse using a small bulb called a noid light. If none found, check for power supply at one side of the injector with the key on.

3) Use a fuel pressure gauge to test for correct fuel pressure, also noticing if the pressure holds when key is shut off.

4) If all of these things check good, then you would need to do a complete compression test.

Once you have determined which of these functions has dropped out,
you will know which system is having the problem.
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Sunday, November 28th, 2010 AT 7:49 PM

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