TRUCK WILL NOT RUN NO SPARK

  • Tiny
  • ranger101
  • 1995 Ford F-150
  • 109,000 miles

Ran fine stopped on day, no Spark, replaced coil, replaced pick-up coil, replaced ignition module, replaced computer, voltages check good, wires check good, grounds check good, fuses and relays check good, removed spout or computer conection get spark and truck will start and run for a few seconds and fuel pump runs none stop can you give me where to check next Thanks

Monday, May 21st, 2012 AT 8:06 PM

9 Answers

  • Tiny
  • rasmataz
  • Member

What liter engine is this?

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Monday, May 21st, 2012 AT 8:14 PM
  • Tiny
  • ranger101
  • Member

A 5.0 EFI

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Monday, May 21st, 2012 AT 8:16 PM
  • Tiny
  • rasmataz
  • Member

Fig. 5: Distributor Ignition System Wiring Diagram (5.0L)
PINPOINT TEST AA: NO START
Check For Codes Perform QUICK TEST. See TESTS W/CODES - EEC-IV (5.0L) article. If diagnostic trouble codes are present, service codes as necessary. If codes are not present, go to next step.
Check Battery Turn ignition on. Check battery voltage. If battery voltage is less than 12 volts, service battery as necessary. If battery voltage is more than 12 volts, go to next step.
Check For Spark Using Neon Bulb Spark Tester (D89P-6666-A), check for spark at coil wire while cranking. If spark is not present, go to next step. If spark is present, go to step 9).
Check For ICM Power Turn ignition off. Connect EEC-IV Diagnostic Cable (007-00097) to EEC-IV Breakout Box (T83L-50-EECIV), negative battery terminal and ICM. See Fig. 6. Ensure PIP OPEN/NORMAL/SPOUT OPEN switch is in NORMAL position. Put DI overlay on breakout box.
WARNING: DO NOT connect EEC-IV Diagnostic Cable and PCM to EEC-IV Breakout Box simultaneously.

Turn ignition on. Put DVOM on DC voltage scale. Measure voltage between J5 (ICM PWR) and J7 (B -) at breakout box. If voltage is 10 volts or less, repair open in ICM PWR circuit to ICM. See Fig. 5. If voltage is more than 10 volts, go to next step.
Fig. 6: Connecting EEC-IV Diagnostic Cable
Check PIP Signal Put DVOM on AC voltage scale. Measure voltage between J7 (B -) and J15 (PIP) while cranking engine. If AC voltage is not 3.0-8.5 volts, go to step 11). If AC voltage is 3.0-8.5 volts, go to next step.
Check SPOUT Signal Measure voltage between J7 (B -) and J10 (SPOUT) while cranking engine. If AC voltage is not 3.0-8.5 volts, go to step 18). If AC voltage is 3.0-8.5 volts, go to next step.
Check COIL PWR At Coil Turn ignition off. Connect diagnostic cable to ignition coil wiring harness connector. Leave ignition coil disconnected. Put DVOM on DC voltage scale. Turn ignition on. Measure voltage between J2 (COIL PWR) and J7 (B -). If voltage is 10 volts or less, repair open in ignition coil circuit. If voltage is more than 10 volts, go to next step.
Check COIL- Signal Turn ignition off. Connect B+ lead of diagnostic cable to positive battery terminal. Connect test light between J1 (B +) and J3 (COIL-). Crank engine. If test light does not flash brightly, go to step 27). If test light flashes brightly, replace ignition coil.
Check For Spark Using Neon Bulb Spark Tester (D89P-6666-A), check for spark at each spark plug wire while cranking. If spark is consistent at all spark plug wires, go to next step. If spark is not consistent, service distributor cap, rotor, plugs or plug wires.
Check Spark Plugs Remove and inspect spark plugs. Replace plugs as necessary. If spark plugs are okay, no-start condition is not ignition related. See appropriate H - TROUBLE SHOOTING (EEC-IV) - NO CODES article.
TESTS W/O CODES - EEC-IV (for Bronco)
TESTS W/O CODES - EEC-IV (for "E" Series RWD Van)
TESTS W/O CODES - EEC-IV (for "F" Pickup)
Check For CMP Power At CMP Sensor Connect diagnostic cable CMP (PIP) sensor tee to CMP sensor and wiring harness connector. Set DVOM to DC voltage scale. Measure voltage between J7 (B -) and J22 (CMP PWR) at breakout box. If voltage is 10 volts or less, repair open PIP PWR circuit. If voltage is more than 10 volts, go to next step.
Check For PIP From CMP Sensor Turn diagnostic cable switch to PIP OPEN position. Set DVOM to AC voltage scale. Crank engine and measure voltage between J7 (B -) and J34 (PIP A). If AC voltage is not 3.0-8.5 volts, check CMP sensor wiring and connector. Repair as necessary. If wiring and connector are okay, replace CMP sensor. If AC voltage is 3.0-8.5 volts, go to next step.
Check PIP With ICM Disconnected Turn ignition off. Turn diagnostic cable switch to NORMAL position. Disconnect diagnostic cable from ICM. Leave diagnostic cable attached to ICM wiring harness connector. Crank engine and measure voltage between J7 (B -) and J34 (PIP A). If AC voltage is 3.0-8.5 volts, replace ICM. If AC voltage is not 3.0-8.5 volts, go to next step.
Check PIP With PCM Disconnected Disconnect PCM. Crank engine and measure voltage between J34 (PIP A) and J7 (B -). If AC voltage is 3.0-8.5 volts, replace PCM. If AC voltage is not 3.0-8.5 volts, go to next step.
Check PIP To PCM For Short To Power Turn ignition off. Disconnect diagnostic cable from CMP sensor. Leave diagnostic cable attached to CMP sensor wiring harness connector. Set DVOM on DC voltage scale. Turn ignition on. Measure voltage between J7 (B -) and J34 (PIP A). If voltage is 0.5 volt or more, repair short to power in PIP/PIP A circuit between CMP sensor and PCM or ICM. If voltage is less than 0.5 volt, repair short to ground in PIP/PIP A circuit between CMP sensor and PCM or ICM.
NOTE: A break in step numbering sequence occurs at this point. Procedure skips from step 15) to step 18). No test procedures have been omitted.

18) Check For SPOUT In Harness If engine starts in this step, continue testing. Turn diagnost

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Monday, May 21st, 2012 AT 9:12 PM
  • Tiny
  • ranger101
  • Member

I have done all these steps, no signal from PIP with spout conected, pull spout and you have signal and engine starts, have replaced ICM and eec or Pcm 3 times no effect, connect spout you have no spark and fuel pump runs without timing out it also runs with spout in? All voltages are correct and have Ohmed to check for wire breaks all check good conections.

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Monday, May 21st, 2012 AT 10:16 PM
  • Tiny
  • rasmataz
  • Member

This is all I got for you-sorry

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Monday, May 21st, 2012 AT 10:30 PM
  • Tiny
  • ranger101
  • Member

Thanks I will keep looking

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Tuesday, May 22nd, 2012 AT 12:30 AM
  • Tiny
  • Bobby Barrel
  • Member

I had all the same issues with my 1995 ford 150 and I figured out the problem! After distributor cap rotor wires plugs mass flow air sensor battery ignition module coil pack coil The only thing I didn' t do was put a new brain and it. Sometimes it is just the easiest fix You bypass. If people are still having the problems I will tell you the answer.

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Sunday, January 17th, 2016 AT 8:53 PM
  • Tiny
  • Bobby Barrel
  • Member

It was a big 20 amp fuse in the main fuse panel box underneath the hood all the way at the top yellow fuse.
Fired up first time. If you disconnect and reconnect the ignition module too many times it will trip that fuse and you will have no spark. I learned the hard way

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Sunday, January 17th, 2016 AT 8:57 PM
  • Tiny
  • 2CarPros Ken
  • Expert
  • 2,393 posts

Nice work bobby

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Sunday, January 17th, 2016 AT 10:50 PM

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