Truck will not run no spark

Tiny
RANGER101
  • MEMBER
  • 1995 FORD F-150
  • 109,000 MILES
Ran fine stopped on day, no Spark, replaced coil, replaced pick-up coil, replaced ignition module, replaced computer, voltages check good, wires check good, grounds check good, fuses and relays check good, removed spout or computer conection get spark and truck will start and run for a few seconds and fuel pump runs none stop can you give me where to check next Thanks
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Monday, May 21st, 2012 AT 8:06 PM

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Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MEMBER
Fig. 5: Distributor Ignition System Wiring Diagram (5.0L)
PINPOINT TEST AA: NO START
Check For Codes Perform QUICK TEST. See TESTS W/CODES - EEC-IV (5.0L) article. If diagnostic trouble codes are present, service codes as necessary. If codes are not present, go to next step.
Check Battery Turn ignition on. Check battery voltage. If battery voltage is less than 12 volts, service battery as necessary. If battery voltage is more than 12 volts, go to next step.
Check For Spark Using Neon Bulb Spark Tester (D89P-6666-A), check for spark at coil wire while cranking. If spark is not present, go to next step. If spark is present, go to step 9).
Check For ICM Power Turn ignition off. Connect EEC-IV Diagnostic Cable (007-00097) to EEC-IV Breakout Box (T83L-50-EECIV), negative battery terminal and ICM. See Fig. 6. Ensure PIP OPEN/NORMAL/SPOUT OPEN switch is in NORMAL position. Put DI overlay on breakout box.
WARNING:DO NOT connect EEC-IV Diagnostic Cable and PCM to EEC-IV Breakout Box simultaneously.

Turn ignition on. Put DVOM on DC voltage scale. Measure voltage between J5 (ICM PWR) and J7 (B -) at breakout box. If voltage is 10 volts or less, repair open in ICM PWR circuit to ICM. See Fig. 5. If voltage is more than 10 volts, go to next step.
Fig. 6: Connecting EEC-IV Diagnostic Cable
Check PIP Signal Put DVOM on AC voltage scale. Measure voltage between J7 (B -) and J15 (PIP) while cranking engine. If AC voltage is not 3.0-8.5 volts, go to step 11). If AC voltage is 3.0-8.5 volts, go to next step.
Check SPOUT Signal Measure voltage between J7 (B -) and J10 (SPOUT) while cranking engine. If AC voltage is not 3.0-8.5 volts, go to step 18). If AC voltage is 3.0-8.5 volts, go to next step.
Check COIL PWR At Coil Turn ignition off. Connect diagnostic cable to ignition coil wiring harness connector. Leave ignition coil disconnected. Put DVOM on DC voltage scale. Turn ignition on. Measure voltage between J2 (COIL PWR) and J7 (B -). If voltage is 10 volts or less, repair open in ignition coil circuit. If voltage is more than 10 volts, go to next step.
Check COIL- Signal Turn ignition off. Connect B+ lead of diagnostic cable to positive battery terminal. Connect test light between J1 (B +) and J3 (COIL-). Crank engine. If test light does not flash brightly, go to step 27). If test light flashes brightly, replace ignition coil.
Check For Spark Using Neon Bulb Spark Tester (D89P-6666-A), check for spark at each spark plug wire while cranking. If spark is consistent at all spark plug wires, go to next step. If spark is not consistent, service distributor cap, rotor, plugs or plug wires.
Check Spark Plugs Remove and inspect spark plugs. Replace plugs as necessary. If spark plugs are okay, no-start condition is not ignition related. See appropriate H - TROUBLE SHOOTING (EEC-IV) - NO CODES article.
TESTS W/O CODES - EEC-IV (for Bronco)
TESTS W/O CODES - EEC-IV (for "E" Series RWD Van)
TESTS W/O CODES - EEC-IV (for "F" Pickup)
Check For CMP Power At CMP Sensor Connect diagnostic cable CMP (PIP) sensor tee to CMP sensor and wiring harness connector. Set DVOM to DC voltage scale. Measure voltage between J7 (B -) and J22 (CMP PWR) at breakout box. If voltage is 10 volts or less, repair open PIP PWR circuit. If voltage is more than 10 volts, go to next step.
Check For PIP From CMP Sensor Turn diagnostic cable switch to PIP OPEN position. Set DVOM to AC voltage scale. Crank engine and measure voltage between J7 (B -) and J34 (PIP A). If AC voltage is not 3.0-8.5 volts, check CMP sensor wiring and connector. Repair as necessary. If wiring and connector are okay, replace CMP sensor. If AC voltage is 3.0-8.5 volts, go to next step.
Check PIP With ICM Disconnected Turn ignition off. Turn diagnostic cable switch to NORMAL position. Disconnect diagnostic cable from ICM. Leave diagnostic cable attached to ICM wiring harness connector. Crank engine and measure voltage between J7 (B -) and J34 (PIP A). If AC voltage is 3.0-8.5 volts, replace ICM. If AC voltage is not 3.0-8.5 volts, go to next step.
Check PIP With PCM Disconnected Disconnect PCM. Crank engine and measure voltage between J34 (PIP A) and J7 (B -). If AC voltage is 3.0-8.5 volts, replace PCM. If AC voltage is not 3.0-8.5 volts, go to next step.
Check PIP To PCM For Short To Power Turn ignition off. Disconnect diagnostic cable from CMP sensor. Leave diagnostic cable attached to CMP sensor wiring harness connector. Set DVOM on DC voltage scale. Turn ignition on. Measure voltage between J7 (B -) and J34 (PIP A). If voltage is 0.5 volt or more, repair short to power in PIP/PIP A circuit between CMP sensor and PCM or ICM. If voltage is less than 0.5 volt, repair short to ground in PIP/PIP A circuit between CMP sensor and PCM or ICM.
NOTE:A break in step numbering sequence occurs at this point. Procedure skips from step 15) to step 18). No test procedures have been omitted.

18) Check For SPOUT In Harness If engine starts in this step, continue testing. Turn diagnost
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+2
Monday, May 21st, 2012 AT 9:12 PM
Tiny
RANGER101
  • MEMBER
I have done all these steps, no signal from PIP with spout conected, pull spout and you have signal and engine starts, have replaced ICM and eec or Pcm 3 times no effect, connect spout you have no spark and fuel pump runs without timing out it also runs with spout in? All voltages are correct and have Ohmed to check for wire breaks all check good conections.
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Monday, May 21st, 2012 AT 10:16 PM
Tiny
BOBBY BARREL
  • MEMBER
I had all the same issues with my 1995 ford 150 and I figured out the problem! After distributor cap rotor wires plugs mass flow air sensor battery ignition module coil pack coil The only thing I didn't do was put a new brain and it. Sometimes it is just the easiest fix You bypass. If people are still having the problems I will tell you the answer.
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+6
Sunday, January 17th, 2016 AT 8:53 PM
Tiny
BOBBY BARREL
  • MEMBER
It was a big 20 amp fuse in the main fuse panel box underneath the hood all the way at the top yellow fuse.
Fired up first time. If you disconnect and reconnect the ignition module too many times it will trip that fuse and you will have no spark. I learned the hard way
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+5
Sunday, January 17th, 2016 AT 8:57 PM
Tiny
KEN
  • ADMIN
Nice work bobby
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Sunday, January 17th, 2016 AT 10:50 PM
Tiny
ZPAINE
  • MEMBER
  • 1995 FORD F-150
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • MANUAL
  • 179,000 MILES
Shortly after buy the truck, I had a no spark issue, only died once. If it started it would drive anywhere. But sometimes it wouldn't start, becoming more frequent until I can no longer drive it. When there is no spark there is no power to coil. Coil distributor, icm, coil, computer, ignition switch, and the voltage regulator are all new. Any ideas?
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Thursday, September 12th, 2019 AT 12:11 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
Has the check engine light come on?
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Thursday, September 12th, 2019 AT 12:11 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ZPAINE
  • MEMBER
Nope
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Thursday, September 12th, 2019 AT 12:11 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
Try switching the EEC relay with one that has the same part number. Let me know if that changes things.
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Thursday, September 12th, 2019 AT 12:11 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ZPAINE
  • MEMBER
Truck ran for about 2 days then nothing, hasn't started for 2 days now, no spark
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Thursday, September 12th, 2019 AT 12:11 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
First, sorry about the delay in getting back to you. I lost my father this week and things have been.

Did it start running after replacing the EEC or on its own?
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Thursday, September 12th, 2019 AT 12:11 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ZPAINE
  • MEMBER
On its own
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Thursday, September 12th, 2019 AT 12:11 PM (Merged)
Tiny
SDICO
  • MEMBER
  • 1995 FORD F-150
  • V8
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 150,000 MILES
I rebuilt the engine & transmission (was a Ford tech for 20 years, but previous to this eec). Have no spark from the coil. Replaced the coil & distributor with known good running identical truck, still no spark. Checked cam/crank timing (both gear marks pointing to each other) Info I've found online suggests there is no TFI, but appears to be one on driver's fender well next to firewall. Also, assume the sensor on top of the block behind intake is cam position sensor; could this be bad?
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Thursday, September 12th, 2019 AT 12:11 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • EXPERT
If your ignition module is on the fender, it's duraspark, not TFI...and either the the duraspark module is the problem, or cam sensor. Here's a wiring digram to help with testin, check for power at coil and at the module...
also check PCM power relay in the under hood fuse block.


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/62217_igna_1.jpg


Check relay #1 And fuse #22


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/62217_relaya_1.jpg

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Thursday, September 12th, 2019 AT 12:11 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
Did you try switching the EEC? If there is no power to anything, then the next step is the PCM because you replaced everything.
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Thursday, September 12th, 2019 AT 12:11 PM (Merged)
Tiny
SDICO
  • MEMBER
The module mounted on the fender well (ICM, I believe) is identical to the one that was on some models mounted to the distributor, and has an oblong connector. When mounted to the inner fender, it is mounted to a heat sink. The sensor on the back of the block is the knock sensor. (Verified by comparing parts at parts house.) I substituted the relay from the running truck, along with the icm & the distributor & coil. Still no spark. I put the parts from the non-running truck on the other truck, and the truck ran fine. I guess all that remains is the computer under the dash?
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+1
Thursday, September 12th, 2019 AT 12:11 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ZPAINE
  • MEMBER
The pcm is the computer that stubs through the fire wall next to the elec. Terminal on the drivers side, thats new, the 2nd one, which leads us to the wiring harness. I've checked every wire for continuity while wiggling the terminals and wires, no loss.
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Thursday, September 12th, 2019 AT 12:11 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • EXPERT
Or the ignition switch and fuses. Also read the codes, like this: Jump the two termnals shown together and turn key to "ON" and count the flashes... a 22 will flash as 2 flashes then a short pause, then 2 flashes, if more than one code is stored, the pause will be longer. The codes will display three times and end with 11 or 111. Write them down and post here. First do this with the key on engine off, then again with it running.


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/62217_Pre_95_FordJump_4.jpg

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Thursday, September 12th, 2019 AT 12:11 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ZPAINE
  • MEMBER
I have power everywhere except the coil, but have power with the terminals pulled off the coil. The engine will crank until the battery dies.
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Thursday, September 12th, 2019 AT 12:11 PM (Merged)
Tiny
SDICO
  • MEMBER
Also tried swapping computers - both work in the running truck, neither work in the non-running truck. I read the codes; 116, 565, and 636. One is evap. Solenoid, I verified that it opens the vacuum line when ign is in, another is engine coolant temp sensor out of range, the sensor is brand new. Won't it be out of range until the truck is running? Third is trans. Temp. Sensor, since trans was also rebuilt, there is probably no fluid contact yet, since trans has not been completely filled? Is there a way to check these sensors w/ a volt/ohmmeter? The connections at the coil show battery voltage on the right connector with ign. On, while cranking, left connector shows 3 volts less than battery voltage. Coil has also been replaced, as terminal tip was broken. I've checked wiring & connectiors, no visible problems or corrosion. I've replaced fuses and the relay. I'm stumped!
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Thursday, September 12th, 2019 AT 12:11 PM (Merged)

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