No spark from the ignition system?

ZPAINE

MEMBER
9 POSTS

? Not sure what you mean. Its getting hot or there are a lot of loose/dirty connections, the pcm can not handle it?

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Wednesday, October 14th, 2020 AT 2:01 PM (Merged)

JACOBANDNICKOLAS

MECHANIC
108,205 POSTS

Many times an electrical component will register at a normal voltage until a load is placed on it. At that point, if there is a bad connection or the component can't keep up with the load, the voltage drops.

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Wednesday, October 14th, 2020 AT 2:02 PM (Merged)

F4I_GUY

MECHANIC
3,302 POSTS

Check for a signal from the PCM.

If there is no signal, start looking at the cam or crank sensors. Do you have any check engine lights on?

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Wednesday, October 14th, 2020 AT 2:02 PM (Merged)

SDICO

MEMBER
3 POSTS
1995 FORD F-150
V8
4WD
AUTOMATIC
150,000 MILES

I rebuilt the engine & transmission (was a Ford tech for 20 years, but previous to this eec). Have no spark from the coil. Replaced the coil & distributor with known good running identical truck, still no spark. Checked cam/crank timing (both gear marks pointing to each other) Info I've found online suggests there is no TFI, but appears to be one on driver's fender well next to firewall. Also, assume the sensor on top of the block behind intake is cam position sensor; could this be bad?

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Wednesday, October 14th, 2020 AT 2:02 PM (Merged)

MERLIN2021

MECHANIC
17,250 POSTS

If your ignition module is on the fender, it's duraspark, not TFI...and either the the duraspark module is the problem, or cam sensor. Here's a wiring digram to help with testin, check for power at coil and at the module...
also check PCM power relay in the under hood fuse block.

Check relay #1 And fuse #22

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Wednesday, October 14th, 2020 AT 2:02 PM (Merged)

SDICO

MEMBER
3 POSTS

The module mounted on the fender well (ICM, I believe) is identical to the one that was on some models mounted to the distributor, and has an oblong connector. When mounted to the inner fender, it is mounted to a heat sink. The sensor on the back of the block is the knock sensor. (Verified by comparing parts at parts house.) I substituted the relay from the running truck, along with the icm & the distributor & coil. Still no spark. I put the parts from the non-running truck on the other truck, and the truck ran fine. I guess all that remains is the computer under the dash?

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Wednesday, October 14th, 2020 AT 2:02 PM (Merged)

MERLIN2021

MECHANIC
17,250 POSTS

Or the ignition switch and fuses. Also read the codes, like this: Jump the two termnals shown together and turn key to "ON" and count the flashes... a 22 will flash as 2 flashes then a short pause, then 2 flashes, if more than one code is stored, the pause will be longer. The codes will display three times and end with 11 or 111. Write them down and post here. First do this with the key on engine off, then again with it running.

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Wednesday, October 14th, 2020 AT 2:02 PM (Merged)

SDICO

MEMBER
3 POSTS

Also tried swapping computers - both work in the running truck, neither work in the non-running truck. I read the codes; 116, 565, and 636. One is evap. Solenoid, I verified that it opens the vacuum line when ign is in, another is engine coolant temp sensor out of range, the sensor is brand new. Won't it be out of range until the truck is running? Third is trans. Temp. Sensor, since trans was also rebuilt, there is probably no fluid contact yet, since trans has not been completely filled? Is there a way to check these sensors w/ a volt/ohmmeter? The connections at the coil show battery voltage on the right connector with ign. On, while cranking, left connector shows 3 volts less than battery voltage. Coil has also been replaced, as terminal tip was broken. I've checked wiring & connectiors, no visible problems or corrosion. I've replaced fuses and the relay. I'm stumped!

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Wednesday, October 14th, 2020 AT 2:02 PM (Merged)

MERLIN2021

MECHANIC
17,250 POSTS

Test ECT with your ohm meter, If the battery neg cable has been disconnected for several minutes, the KAM should have cleared these codes..also it could be the distributor with a no spark. Or ignition switch.

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-2

Wednesday, October 14th, 2020 AT 2:02 PM (Merged)

BRIAN7388

MEMBER
2 POSTS
1995 FORD F-150
6 CYL
2WD
MANUAL
159,000 MILES

I have a 95 ford f-150 I-6 4.9L. It usually starts and runs great but, every now and then it will cut off completely while driving as if the ignition was turned off. I wait anywhere between 5-30 minutes and the truck will start and run fine after this. Or the other case is sometimes when I go to start it, it will crank and crank until the battery dies-i know this is because of no spark. Ignition control module, ignition coil, plugs, and wires were replaced, help?

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Wednesday, October 14th, 2020 AT 2:02 PM (Merged)

JACOBANDNICKOLAS

MECHANIC
108,205 POSTS

Spark:

When this happens, are you getting power to the coil? Also, have you checked the crank sensor? Has the check engine light come on?

Let me know.

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Wednesday, October 14th, 2020 AT 2:02 PM (Merged)

BRIAN7388

MEMBER
2 POSTS

I have not checked either the crank sensor or power to the coil. Where is the crank sensor located? If that was the issue it would still crank and not kick over? And yes the check engine light came on a little bit ago, but I do not think it's related. The codes I got from the test were 522-(not in park or neutral, but it was in nuetral.), 732-(not listed in the codes), 334-(egr closed voltage higher than expected). And what's the best way to check power to the coil?
Thanks,
Brian

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Wednesday, October 14th, 2020 AT 2:02 PM (Merged)

TEDMAN

MEMBER
1 POST
1995 FORD F-150
V8
2WD
AUTOMATIC
98,000 MILES

The truck has had 2 ignition control modules installed in the last 6 months, (by others) and now the same symptoms are back. The truck turns over but Im not getting any spark to the distributor cap. Its throwing out a code 212 and 452. Im suspect of the igintion control module again, but wonder what could be killing these things? Also I would like to know where the module is located and how to change it myself. Im out of $$ and desprately need my truck. Thank you

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Wednesday, October 28th, 2020 AT 11:44 AM (Merged)

IN13PIECES

MEMBER
3 POSTS

Hey,

Try looking in the engine compartment on the driver's side wall. It might be located there, or right next to the distributor. It's usually either a silver or black box-like object.

I've heard that similar electrical problems can be caused my the distributor getting excess moisture on it. Have you check for any excess water getting under your hood? How about wiring?

Good luck.

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Wednesday, October 28th, 2020 AT 11:44 AM (Merged)

DAVE H

MECHANIC
13,383 POSTS

Ignition Control Module (ICM)On left rear side of inner fender panel. See Fig. 1 .

1) Continuous Memory Code 211
Code 211 indicates 2 successive erratic Profile Ignition Pick-Up (PIP) pulses occurred, resulting in a possible engine miss or stall. Check for the following possible causes of fault:
Loose wires or connectors.
Secondary ignition short to ground.
On-board transmitter equipment (2-way radio).
Repair if necessary and repeat QUICK TEST. If problem is not found, go to next step. If vehicle does not start, go to CIRCUIT TEST AA.

2) Continuous Memory Code 212: Check IDM Circuit Continuity -Continuous Memory Code 212 indicates loss of IDM input to PCM. Possible causes for this fault are:
Open or shorted circuit in wiring harness.
Faulty ICM.
Faulty PCM.
If vehicle does not start, go to CIRCUIT TEST AA. If vehicle starts, go to next step.
3) Check IDM Circuit Continuity
Turn ignition off. Disconnect 60-pin PCM connector. Inspect terminals and repair if damaged. Install EEC-IV Breakout Box (T83L-50-EEC-IV), leaving PCM disconnected. Disconnect ICM. Measure resistance between test pin No. 4 at breakout box and IDM terminal at ICM wiring harness connector. If resistance is 5 ohms or less, go to step 5). If resistance is more than 5 ohms, repair open circuit, and repeat QUICK TEST.
NOTE:A break in step numbering sequence occurs at this point. Procedure skips from step 3) to step 5). No test procedures have been omitted.

5) Check IDM Circuit For Short To Power (Except VREF)
Turn ignition off. Leave ICM and PCM disconnected. Measure voltage between breakout box test pin No. 4 and negative battery terminal. Turn ignition on. Measure voltage between test pin No. 4 and test pins No. 40 and 60 at breakout box. If voltage is more than 10.5 volts, repair short circuit. Clear codes, and repeat QUICK TEST. If voltage is 10.5 volts or less, go to next step.
6) Check IDM Circuit For Short To PIP & VREF
Turn ignition off. Leave PCM and ICM disconnected. Disconnect ignition coil wiring harness connector (non-CCD). Remove scan tester (if applicable). For short to PIP, measure resistance between test pins No. 4 and 56 at breakout box. For short to VREF, measure resistance between test pins No. 4 and 26 at breakout box. If any resistance is 10,000 ohms or less, repair short circuit and repeat QUICK TEST. If each resistance is more than 10,000 ohms, go to next step.
7) Check IDM Circuit For Short To Ground
Turn ignition off. Remove scan tester (if applicable). Leave ignition coil, ICM and PCM disconnected. Measure resistance between test pin No. 4 and test pins No. 20, 40, 46 and 60 at breakout box. If each resistance is more than 10,000 ohms, reconnect scan tester and go to next step. If any resistance is 10,000 ohms or less, repair short to ground in IDM circuit. Clear codes, and repeat QUICK TEST.
8) Check ICM
Turn ignition off. Connect PCM to breakout box. Reconnect ICM and ignition coil to wiring harness connectors. Connect DVOM between test pins No. 4 and 16 at breakout box. Start engine. Observe DVOM for voltage surge while lightly tapping on ICM and Camshaft Position (CMP) sensor to simulate road shock. Wiggle all ICM and CMP sensor wiring and harness connectors. If fault (voltage surge) is indicated, disconnect and inspect wiring harness connectors and terminals for damage. If fault is not indicated, go to next step.
9) Check PCM & Harness Connectors
Ensure engine is still running and DVOM is still connected between test pins No. 4 and 16 at breakout box. While observing DVOM, wiggle and bend wiring harness, a small section at a time, from ICM and CMP sensor (if equipped) to cowl. Also check harness from cowl to PCM. If fault is indicated, isolate fault and repair as necessary. Remove breakout box, reconnect all components, and repeat QUICK TEST. If no fault is found, go to next step.
10) Check PCM & Harness Connectors
Turn ignition off. Disconnect PCM 60-pin connector. Inspect connector for damaged pins, corrosion and loose wires. If connector is damaged, repair as necessary. Clear codes, and repeat QUICK TEST. If connector is okay, go to next step.
11) Check PCM For Short To Power
Turn ignition off. Connect PCM to breakout box. Disconnect CMP wiring harness connector. Measure voltage between test pin No. 4 at breakout box and chassis ground. Turn ignition on. Measure voltage between test pin No. 4 and test pins No. 40 and 60 at breakout box. If either voltage reading is more than 10.5 volts, replace PCM and repeat QUICK TEST. If both voltage readings are 10.5 volts or less, go to next step.
12) Check PCM For Short To Ground
Turn ignition off. Leave PCM connected to breakout box. Measure resistance between test pin No. 4 and test pins No. 40, 46 and 60 at breakout box. If resistance is more than 10,000 ohms, check ignition system. See SYSTEM/COMPONENT TESTS - EEC-IV (5.0L) article. If resistance is 10,000 ohms or less, replace PCM and repeat QUICK TEST.

****CODE 452.....Insufficient Input From Vehicle Speed Sensor To Powertrain Control Module***

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Wednesday, October 28th, 2020 AT 11:44 AM (Merged)