Replace timing chain

Tiny
GREENBEAN1979
  • MEMBER
  • 1996 SATURN SL2
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 141,000 MILES
How do you get the bottom gear and the chain to line-up correctly? Always seem to be one-link off.
Thursday, May 6th, 2010 AT 8:55 PM

11 Replies

Tiny
BLUELIGHTNIN6
  • MECHANIC
  • 16,542 POSTS
Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know if you need anything else to get the problem fixed.


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/261618_Graphic_489.jpg

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Thursday, May 6th, 2010 AT 10:47 PM
Tiny
JIM SAAD
  • MEMBER
  • 44 POSTS
  • 1993 SATURN SL2
  • 1.9L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 106,000 MILES
We are trying to replace the timing chain on our vehicle because the engine quit running after making a lot of friction noise. We discovered that the plastic material on the top and side guides were totally worn out and the chain's tension-er was seized. When installing the new timing chain kit as per the Haynes Book's instructions we were able to align the two top camshaft sprockets so that the two sprocket pin holes could be filled with a drill bit to stop the two camshafts while the new chain's black links can be positioned at twelve o'clock of each camshaft sprocket; however, now I cannot align the bottom crankshaft sprocket with the twelve o'clock mark on the engine block. It is as if there is some kind of internal crankshaft blockage which prevents me from turning the crankshaft. I am able to reach approximately the 12:05 position instead. At this point I can not move the crankshaft counter-clockwise. Initially, when I tried this procedure I was able to reach the twelve o'clock position and I manually turned the crankshaft several complete turns. Then when I put everything back together I disconnected the fuel pump's relay and cranked the engine to test the pressure in the cylinder. Then I realized there was no pressure. I attempted to manually turn the crankshaft and discovered that I could not pass the twelve o'clock mark on the engine block. It was at this point when I discovered the crankshaft blockage. We would appreciate any one who could give us some advice on how to resolve this problem. Thank you.

Jim
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Wednesday, July 31st, 2019 AT 6:03 PM (Merged)
Tiny
STEVE W.
  • MECHANIC
  • 12,974 POSTS
Okay as I am reading this: You replaced the timing chain and tested the engine. Then discovered that you had no pressure in that cylinder.
That is an interference engine and the blockage you feel is the valves hitting the pistons because it is now out of time.
Probably the best solution would be to remove the chain, remove the head and verify that there was/was not contact. Then proceed from there. Especially when you had no compression in that cylinder when you tested. It may have already bent a valve or two when the tension-er and guides were bad initially.
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Wednesday, July 31st, 2019 AT 6:03 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JIM SAAD
  • MEMBER
  • 44 POSTS
1993 SATURN SL2 Difficulty Reaching Top Dead Center

Thank you for your prompt response. I will definitely use your suggestion to remove the head cylinder to resolve the blockage in turning the crankshaft to reach the 12 o'clock mark on the engine block. But for now what I did was remove the chain, the two camshafts, and all the covers for the valve springs in an attempt to see if there was any valve shaft in the down position. I discovered that all the springs are o.K. But I wonder if there is a way to confirm that all the valves are still attached to the springs without removing the head cylinder at this point. Thank you for any suggestion you may have.

Jim
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Wednesday, July 31st, 2019 AT 6:03 PM (Merged)
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
  • MECHANIC
  • 30,870 POSTS
Once you pull the cams and then right under the cams is your lifters directly bellow your lifters is your valve spring keepers springs etc. Rather than pull the head you could buy one of cheaper inspection cameras they have a mirror so it will show a backwards view. Make sure you get a camera head small enough to fit the spark plug holes. That will show you if you have piston damage or valve damage without pulling the head.
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Wednesday, July 31st, 2019 AT 6:03 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JIM SAAD
  • MEMBER
  • 44 POSTS
Thank you for the information. We tried the camera and confirmed all the intake valves are bent. We removed the cylinder head and placed an order for all the intake valves and gaskets. My question at this point is if we can reuse the cylinder head bolts. We would appreciate your comments. Thank you.

Jim
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Wednesday, July 31st, 2019 AT 6:03 PM (Merged)
Tiny
STEVE W.
  • MECHANIC
  • 12,974 POSTS
As a general rule I don't re-use head bolts.
However the book says they can be reused. Just clean the threads and oil them. Then torque in sequence to 22 ft. Lbs. (30 N.M) then torque in sequence again to 37 ft. Lbs. (50 N.M) Then install an angle gauge and torque in sequence an additional 90 degrees.
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Wednesday, July 31st, 2019 AT 6:03 PM (Merged)
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
  • MECHANIC
  • 30,870 POSTS
Replace the bolts any bolts with a torque angle are stretched and need to be replaced.
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Wednesday, July 31st, 2019 AT 6:03 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JIM SAAD
  • MEMBER
  • 44 POSTS
Thank you once again for your help. We decided to buy a new set of cylinder head bolts. In the mean time while we are waiting for the eight new intake valves to arrive I would like to know if the new intake valves from Sealed Power (part # V4507) require any adjusting for the stem length. We are going to reseat these valves just as we did with the exhaust valves. According to the tech gurus at Federal Mogul the new intake valves are built to spec. And do not need any adjustment in the valve stem length as long as the head cylinder seat is O.K. I would appreciate your comments especially if we still have to file the valve stem length. ( If so, what gauge measurement do you recommend?). Thank you.

Jim
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Wednesday, July 31st, 2019 AT 6:03 PM (Merged)
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
  • MECHANIC
  • 30,870 POSTS
I have only installed oem valves in those no aftermarket. So I can say to just go by what they tell you. Also make sure you change the valve stem seals and check the valve guides.
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Wednesday, July 31st, 2019 AT 6:03 PM (Merged)
Tiny
STEVE W.
  • MECHANIC
  • 12,974 POSTS
Looking at the numbers the valves look identical to OEM. Shouldn't be an issue. As Saturntech9 says, check the guides close. It takes quite a bit of force to bend a valve. The guides are what takes that force.
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Wednesday, July 31st, 2019 AT 6:03 PM (Merged)

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