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Engine not running

Tiny
DARTH_KALUS
  • MEMBER
  • 1992 PONTIAC GRAND AM
  • 423,226 MILES
I have a 92 Grand Am with a 3.3L V6 engine. My car stalled out at an intersection with no warning at all. I coasted it to the side of the road and attempted to start it with no luck. Someone said that it could be the fuel pump but it made a humming noise and sent fuel to the injectors. I replaced the fuel regulator, Ignition coils, the Ignition control module, Crankcase sensor, tried and tested other ECM's, Checked all fuses all but one were ok. The one that was burnt out was an EGRS fuse. I changed it but nothing worked. I had a mechanic look at it and did an injector test. It did not light up using the ECM but it did light up using a testing light. All I know is that something seems to be blocking an electrical reaction from the ECM to the Ignition Control Module. I did have three items come up on the Service Engine Soon light before all this testing was done. I got a Code: 26 Quad Driver Module, 27, Quad Driver Module Circuit, and 39 Torque Clutch Converter Circuit. According the the mechanic he said that it was not the Transmission. He asked me if the tranny made a noise while I was applying the brakes I told him no.
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Friday, September 30th, 2011 AT 2:44 AM

28 Replies

Tiny
DARTH_KALUS
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Correction: The Fuse that went out said ERLS.
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Friday, September 30th, 2011 AT 2:51 AM
Tiny
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This can be a number of things. From what I've been able to find, the usual culprit here is the TCC, either faulty or unplugged.
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Friday, September 30th, 2011 AT 3:00 AM
Tiny
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If the TCC was unplugged where would I be able to find it?
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Friday, September 30th, 2011 AT 3:25 AM
Tiny
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There would be an electrical connector hanging loose somewhere near the transmission.
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Friday, September 30th, 2011 AT 3:30 AM
Tiny
DARTH_KALUS
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Alright, I'll have a look at it sometime in the morning.
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Friday, September 30th, 2011 AT 4:13 AM
Tiny
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Ok, let us know what you find.
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Friday, September 30th, 2011 AT 6:23 AM
Tiny
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  • 12 POSTS
I didn't find anything loose at all around the transmission. Also while I was looking around the engine my friend had an idea that we tried. He used a spray can of Start up. The car tried to start when he sprayed it into the mass airflow meter.
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Saturday, October 1st, 2011 AT 4:00 PM
Tiny
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I did some more research on this and found out some related information:

The QDM is built into the PCM The most common failures are the EGR solenoid or the Canister Purge solenoid.

Check all computer and sensor grounds.

Other information says it may be the ECM since a number of sensors usually don't fail at once.

The attached image may be helpful.
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Saturday, October 1st, 2011 AT 8:24 PM
Tiny
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According to the mechanic that bailed on he tested 3 different ECM's and switched out the PROM's He said that the ECM and PROMS were good. First, how would I go about checking all the sensor grounds? Second, where exactly is the EGR solenoid / Canister Purge Solenoid located? Would it be found in my Haynes book? Thanks again for the info.
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Sunday, October 2nd, 2011 AT 2:22 AM
Tiny
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Yes. It should be in the Haynes Manual. The Canister Purge Solenoid is #8 in the image I sent earlier. The EGR solenoid is part of the EGR Valve.
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Sunday, October 2nd, 2011 AT 2:40 AM
Tiny
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Ok, I changed out the purge solenoid and tried to start the car and got nothing. Still won't go. I wanted to state before the mechanic bailed on me. He was testing the injectors with a light. When the car was trying to crank no light came through it. He played with the injectors using a 12v light and it came on. I can only to so much I'm limited on funds and do not have the proper know how. I wish I could take it to a shop but it's impossible.
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Wednesday, October 5th, 2011 AT 4:46 PM
Tiny
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I know the feeling. Normally, considering your last post, I'd say check the fuel injector relay, but I can't find any mention of one in my reference material. Check the convenience center under the dash and the main fuse/relay box under the hood for a circuit protection device labelled fuel injection.
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Wednesday, October 5th, 2011 AT 7:22 PM
Tiny
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Ok, I looked under the hood and found 5 relays in a black box below the ABS brake computer. But they are not labeled what they are. I honestly don't know how to test them exactly to see which ones are good or bad? Because I don't know how to use a voltmeter? Thanks again for your help.
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Wednesday, October 5th, 2011 AT 10:15 PM
Tiny
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Do they have any sort of wiring diagrams on the top (the relays)? My reference material doesn't list relays and fuses by use and location. Try and locate an owners manual or request one from the local GM dealership. It will show what relays and fuses are in what locations. The latest model I can find online is for a 99.
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Wednesday, October 5th, 2011 AT 10:45 PM
Tiny
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I checked out the relays in the black box but didn't find a wiring diagram. I'm still waiting on the owner's manual. I had to purchase one since my original one is somewhere in storage. Also, I did this on a whim. I went to the local junkyard to get 5 relays and removed and replaced the ones in the black box. The car still didn't start.
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Tuesday, October 11th, 2011 AT 7:00 PM
Tiny
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Ok. The theory of the operation of a relay is this:
There is a magnetic switch that is closed when one side is connected to ground and power is applied to the other side. On the other side of this switch is a higher current power source. When the relay is energized, this high current is applied to the powered circuit. Make sure the relay is receiving switching power when the ignition is in the "On/Run" position, as well as while starting. Set the meter to 20VDC if there is a range switch, or just set it to read VDC. Attach the black lead to a good source of ground, like the battery negative or a wire to the ground. Probe the underside of the relay with the red meter lead. The relay and base should be labeled with numbers per the image.
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Tuesday, October 11th, 2011 AT 10:59 PM
Tiny
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I wish I knew where this problem is at. I'm unable to see this diagram very well. Also, I had another mechanic look at it. He took out the aftermarket alarm system and put the wires back together. I had a new computer and PROM installed and got nothing. Also the mechanic bailed on me again. All I can say is that no spark going to the plugs or the injectors.
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Saturday, November 19th, 2011 AT 7:26 PM
Tiny
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Try downloading the image to your computer so you can view it in higher resolution. Right click the thumbnail and select 'Save Image As'. That way you should be able to magnify it.
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Sunday, November 20th, 2011 AT 3:01 AM
Tiny
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Hello again! I wanted to thank you for your help. What happened was that the backyard mechanic messed up the harmonic balancer and it hit the crank sensor. I was able to get it fixed with help from my brother and an in-law. Now I need to figure out how to replace the PCV valve and wondering what is the best way to go at it? Any help would be grateful.
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+1
Monday, March 12th, 2012 AT 11:07 PM
Tiny
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PCV valves are usually located in one of the valve covers and have a tube or hose going to the air cleaner.
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Monday, March 12th, 2012 AT 11:47 PM

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