I need help getting my car running after fuse box, lights and other parts stolen

is the battery there???

can you take some pictures and post them???

Roy

Check and test the fusible link 60amp on the left with 2-wires going to it as you look at it

Greetings Rasmataz,
Yes the battery is intact. I took the main relay and plugged it in without attaching the metal hanging hook. Someone suggested maybe I needed to properly install the main relay because the metal could have been a ground. the metal piece goes on the back and then it's hung up to a spot behind the dash by bolting it. But I figured that's just to get it out of the way and somewhat hidden from would be thieves So I just plugged it in and hung it.

Is it possible the relay needs to be on theat metal piece? I'll attach a photo of the main relay. Also,
I don't know where the ECU is located so I can't check to see if that too was stolen. So I looked on the passengers side by the wall under the dash and I noticed when I pulled the material back that there was a hanging blue plug. If the ECU was there they may have taken it. I've attached a photo for that as well.

Let me know what other images you need and I will try to supply them. .

Thank you.

Lynne

Hi Razmataz,
Someone who is more electrically inclined then I am is coming over and is bringing a meter. I opened your image and took a screen shot which I will show him and ask him to check it.

Is there anything else he needs to check too while he is here? I can pass your advice on to him and then get back to you with the results.

I read somewhere that most Honda Civic ECUs are on the right passenger side along the wall under the dash. That little blue plug is either missing something or it needs to be attached to something. But it's very small and may not have anything to do with the ECU. The ECU may be still hidden in the material behind that plug. I need to learn where it's located on a 1960 Civic DX hatchback.

Can you help me with that?I'm worried it was stolen and I want to set my eyes on it. Gogling that hasn't brought me any clear answers.

I appreciate your help.

Lynne

JUST TO DO A LITTLE TEENY TINY BUTTING IN................

I HAVE DONE THIS A FEW TIMES

YOU KINDA GET THAT FEELING LIKE YOU ARE A STALKER THOUGH.......WHATEVER A STALKER FEELS LIKE WHE THEY ARE STALKING

TAKE YOUR DIGITAL CAMERA WITH YOU AND MAYBE SORTA RECON BUSINESS' ALONG YOUR ROUTE

SEARCHING FOR A VEHICLE JUST LIKE YOURS

MOST OF THE TIME IF YOU WILL SORTA HANG OUT AT THE SMALLER PLACES, ONCE YOU EXPLAIN YOUR PLIGHT, THE OWNER MIGHT LET YOU SNAP A BUNCH OF PICS WHICH MIGHT AID YOU

THE SMALLER PLACES ARE BEST----I HAVE SAT IN THE WALMART PARKING LOT, LIKE FOREVER, WAITING ON SOME "COMPULSIVE BUYING DISORDER" FELLER TO RETURN TO HIS TAHOE, SO I COULD SEE HOW SOME STUFF WENT BACK TOGETHER THAT MY BROTHER-IN-LAW SCREWED UP ON MY SISTER'S RIG.......BUT IT WAS WORTH THE WAIT!

WHILE ON YOUR RECON MISSION---FOOD, WATER, AND ROTTWEILER SHOULD BE PLACED IN THE "DONOR CAR"

OK.....CONTINUE ON WITH THE OTHER GUYS

THE MEDIC

Dear Medic,
The 1990 Honda Civic DX is apparently pretty rare and sought after because its engine is enduring and it's gas mileage is in the 40s, and it looks like a little hot rod. People have called me from out of state to come see this car. Someone from another state wanted it so he can fix it up to race with.. People steal things from this car, something I never would have thought possible and made me feel my car was the one stalked, but for the wrong reason. "Stalking" someone with a Honda Civic DX like mine is not only impractical, but would suggest I don't have a real life. I don't have the time to sit in a Walmart waiting for some guy to drive in with a car like mine so I can get a few pictures. I live in the country and I'll be lucky to see one for years, especially out here if I did something like that. And I'd lose my job and my house trying.

I hope you are not one of the experts, because your suggestion is not helpful in my situation.

Lymeris

Hi Razmataz,
I FOUND THE ECU!! ! It was under the dash in the passenger's feet area and against the firewall that's between the foot space and the engine. It's bolted inside a cover. But no wires are attached to it. Do you want a picture? Btw, its in the same area as the blue little hanging plug. I doubt it was taken as the bolts are still on it and I'm guessing the haste with which thieves like to do things, it would have likely been removed with the ECU .

Also, please tell me more about what those two wires on the left side of the fuse box go to so we can consider what's wrong if the test fails.

I will be with a potential buyer at 9 am this morning (Sunday). He's the guy bringing a meter to test the car and go over it and he's trying to help me out. He's not a professional so I can only hope whatever is wrong is obvious. I will keep an eye on this post. But if you can't respond due to other things,in your life today, I understand.

I'm hoping just an answer to that question will be all we need.

My thanks to you again.

Lynne

The blue little plug is attachecd to nothing. It is the Service Check Connector uses for engine diagnostics.

Have you tested the power supply to the ignition switch? Has battery been tested?

PS To the Medic. . .= )

I take that back, you was helpful. Your story about the Rottweiler, food and water left for the donor car and your description of the folks who go to Walmart made me laugh, which I needed. I got a good chuckle fro your suggestion and I appreciate your humor.

PSS Ever take a picture from a contorted twisted angle under the dash of a tiny Honda DX? The pictures don't always turn out useful unless some knows a Honda real well. . .even then.But iIf you succeeded in doing that, please tell me how you did it. Now THAT would be helpful.

Lynne (aka Lymeris)

The battery is good last time I checked. The power to the ignition was good also, so if its not good now then something may have been unplugged. The state of the car before the theft was that it was able to turn over, even rumble but not start. The alternator seemed to be froze up or it's possible it wasn't getting gas. Perhaps the main relay was starting to go out. That was why I was so hopeful when they took it and I needed to replace it.

But even with the new relay, after the theft, there are no instrument panel lights like check engine, oil, battery ect. I turn the key and there is nothing. So the Main relay must not be communicating with the ECU right? or is there something else we need to consider?

Did my photo of the hanging plug under the dash on the driver's side give a clue? Its the only otherr hanging plug I keep having the feeling something needs to be installed or plugged up. Something that they did when they went under the dash and took my main relay and whatever was in that hanging plug on the drivers side.

Any other photos that might be helpful? I'm willing to try it again. I can go further up maybe. Or take pictures of the engine near the firewall.

Lynne

Hi Razmataz,
I replied to your questions but it didn't show when I hit send. So if this is a duplicate and it showed up on your end you know why.

The battery to the car was fine and so was the ignition before the theft. It would turn over and almost start. Questions around that issue was the froze up distributor or gas getting to the fuel pump. But everything else seemed fine.

Since the theft, when I turn the key there are NO PANEL LIGHTS. No check engine, oil ect lights and no sound of the car, nothing. The main relay may not be connecting to the ECU?

I'll have Josh check the ignition. I keep having the feeling that there is something that needs to be plugged in or connected. Does the plug on the drivers side help any? What could be missing there that would not allow the dash lights to come on?

Do you ;need any photos from under the dash again? I'm willing to try. I'm a small person. Or do you need Photos of the engine along the firewall?

Things known to be stolen: Radiator and cooling fan, amber side markers in the front (made of glass too. . .sigh), main relay and an unknown smaller relay for a four prong plug in, possible the turn/hazard light relay if there is such a thing. The rest is not known yet.

He's coming over at 9 am CST. That's about a half hour from now, but I will break off from what he's doing and check for posts.

Lynne

Okay, my message went to the next page (now this page). So I didn't see it on page one, just a blank message box and I thought it didn't sent. Now I've repeated myself. My apologies. I'm new to this website.

Lynne

It has been a long time since I last checked under this vehicle and where I am, well the driver sits on the right hand side of vehicle so the wiring or my understanding could be reversed and when I say right, be prepared for left, lol.

The white connector in 2nd picture is a typical connector of a relay but Honda don't have too many relays underdash and that could be the starter relay. You need to plug in a relay but this is not going to make the dashlights comes on when the ignition switch is turned on. There is power missing and in fisrt diagram, there is a fuse box on right of picture. Ensure the 2 metal strips (main fuses) are not broken and has battery voltage to them. You ned a test light or DVOM to test this.

Test the horn, brake lights and headlights to see if they are working.

At ignition switch, ensure you have battery voltage to the White and White/Black wire. The main fuses supplies power to these two terminals.

Btw the 2 connectors shown in last diagram is plugged into the fuse box as shown in your 2nd picture and ensure they are plugged in. You need to test with them plugged in or from the fuse box terminals.

Wow! Okay, 60 am is for battery. I took a picture of the fuse box cover and Josh opened it up to test and guess what, no fuses! They were all taken out. Who knows what else we'll find. We're going to the parts store with a list. Will get back to you soon.

One quick question. I put the main fuse on without the metal piece to bolt it up with. Josh thought it might add to the grounding of the Main Relay (he thought this before he checked the fuse box). Is there any thing about that or its that piece merely functional to put the fuse up? I intend to do that anyway, but jsut wanted to test the car first.

Thanks for helping a clueless gal out. I never opened that box, too busy looking under the dash.

Will keep you posted as things progress.

Lynne

Sorry you lost me there. I am not sure what metal piece you are refering to and maybe a picture is required.

Hi, this is for KHLow2008, Razmataz and a notice for MEDIC, (a good surprise!)

KHLow2008, In my first or second email on page 1, I uploaded a picture of the main relay. I'll upload it again for your convenience.

Here is an update. We got fuses for the battery (60 A), the ECU (15A) and the Ignition(50A). The amp for the ignition was a fusible link type and they were in a package of 45, 55, 65A.

Btw, this is for MEDIC: I stand corrected. This morning, just as we were returning to the parts store for something we forgot a 1990 Honda civic dx almost exactly like mine, pulled up! The guy was great and we looked in his fuse box (I had no camera).Anyway, I STILL won't wait outside a Walmart stalking a Honda, but I WILL give a few points for the serendipitous possibilities of life and keep a more open mind. = )

We found out the silver fusible links we bought were not what was in this guys car that pulled up. His had the type that looked like there was a little container resting on a copper link.

So we had proper fuses for 2 of the 3 we wanted to put fuses in for and the 50A ignition we were told to put in the 45A because it was safer and was only temporary to test the car. We put the fuses in and we got dash lights and the beeping sound. Two lights were not coming on, possibly the headlights which we didn't put in and maybe one other. But silence on the car turning over.

Josh said the battery was low and he also said he thought we could play with the locked up alternator. Before the theft, the car cranked but wouldn't start. Someone noticed the alternator would not turn, only it's belt. So he wants to play with that tonight, and he wants to recharge the battery. It's real low he says.

Still, I don't believe it wouldn't even try to turn over even weakly. No sound. Can a battery be that dead when it wasn't before the theft? (The theft was about a week ago).

Could the missing relay be a starter relay? Any thoughts on this? Josh had to leave. He won't be back til tonight. Banging on the alternator may work, so may charging the battery, but I just have a feeling we're missing one more piece to this puzzle.

Will check in for responses.
Lynne

Thanks for the relay pix KHLow2008. Is the starter relay on a DX in the same place and the starter relay in the EX? If not can anyone help me find a pic of the starter relay on a DX? The placement of that starter relay is very much like the place of the one wire that's hanging. Someone might have pulled the starter relay and that's why the car won't turn over. . .any thoughts?

Lynne

Starter relay are common relays that are interchangeable for all models so no problem with that. Yes, try plugging in the relay to the 4 terminal connector as shown in your second diagram, the one above the PGM-FI main relay.

The PGM-FI main relay bracket is not a grounding point for it. It is only for securing the component.

A failing battery can self drain in a week and you had been cranking previously without starting, that could have partially drained the battery too. The alternator would only work when the engine is running so don't bank on it to charge the battery for now.

At the starter motor, apply battery voltage to the solenoid terminal to test if the engine cranks.

PGM-FI Electronic Control Unit Under front floor panel carpeting on passenger's side

Hello! Thanks for your patience and sorry for the delay. I've not been home all day.I've been to salvage yards and such.

Razmataz, thanks for the info on the ECU. On page one of this dialogue, I reported that I found the ECU and it seemed intact. Since then, I and a friend added fuses to the engine's fuse box (the thieves clean those out). I put in only fuses for the ignition, ECU and battery and turned the key. The instrument panel lights came on (except for Brake and trunk lights but I didn't install those fuses. . . .). But when I turned the key all the way to the right nothing. Like a dead starter would sound like. Only I'm sure my starter isn't dead.

My friend said the battery was real low and that plus the alternator being "froze up" would maybe cause that. But I wanted to search for a starter relay, to fill that four prong hanging plug. It seems that might be the real problem.

Here's where KHLow2008 responded about starter relays. .(don't know your name so I'll shorten your email name to KHL), KHL. . .tell me more about how common and interchangable the starter relays are because that's not the impression I got from the Honda parts department in their Dealerships I've tt. They said there's only a starter relay for a Honda Civic DX hatchback IF its a manual tranny (mine is, its a 5 spd). Then they gave me a part number, and the price is in the $50s! Then I found out that part number apparently goes to a relay assembly for a Prelude and not for my little ol' starter relay. The Honda dealerships I've tt have been no help. Wish I had a Honda 1-800 number for Honda owners. Toyota has one. Do either of you know a number I can call?

Parts stores around here do not carry a starter relay for my 1990 Honda. Check those out already. And the salvage yard is only hopeful if I know what it looks like hooked up to the fuse box where it apparently gets clipped to hang it out of the way. This one has me stumped.

But here's another potential thing. . .I can't remember whether I depressed the clutch or not when I tried to start it Saturday, . And that would make a HUGE difference in cranking it. My Honda won't start, give a big nothing sound if its in neutral and I try to start it. It has to be in gear and the clutch depressed. I think it's a safety issue.

I've had the battery recharged and put it in the car (no worries. Positive is where it belongs and it's cables are torqued tight). Tomorrow I will try to start the car again to see if it just cranks with the clutch down. BUT if it doesn't crank I am convinced I need that starter relay. Something goes in that plug and I have learned a starter relay goes "pert-near" in that area.

So today I've been a busy gal.
Besides getting the Battery taken care of, I went to a salvage yard and found two corner markers for the front as well as a radiator cooling assemply (fan and motor). When I installed the markers though I discovered the passenger side marker's wires were cut when they took it. So that side is only installed for cosmetics now. But at the yard I got everything, including the bulbs~ the whole enchilada for both. So maybe someone will wire that up for the buyer (or me) down the road.

The cooling fan assembly is IFFY regarding if its a match. The salvaged car was a 1991 Honda Civic hatchback 4 spd (mine's a 5 spd). I don't know if the radiator fans are the same for my model. There's two of them, one with a fan motor. This is fun ain't it? Can't wait to get back to my other neglected challenges in life. Restoring a car you care about can be obsessive and frustrating if you don't know much about mechanics. But I'm learning as I go. Just asking a lot of questions.

I'll be around tomorrow, then Wednesday I won't be around til after 5 pm. Hope to hear back tomorrow. Thanks for being there for me.

Lynne

I'M BACK!

THIS NEW 2CAR THING IS SO CONFUSING.......UNLIKE ME

SORRY I WAS NOT MUCH HELP---AND YES I HAVE STALKED...AND IT HAS PAID OFF MANY TIMES!

I'M MORE OF A JEEP CJ KINDA GUY .......MORE "EXPERT" OVER THERE IN THE CJ5 & 7 FORUMS....RUN OVER AND LOOK IF YOU LIKE---I REALLY TRY TO GIVE THEM MY ALL.....I HAVE SORTA ANSWERED MIGHT-NEAR ALL OF THEM THE LAST TWO YEARS

THE ONLY REASON I STRAY FROM THERE IS ........THEY SELDOM BREAK AND I AM LEFT TO HINDER SOMEONE ELSE!..........HERE'S AN EXAMPLE OF PROBABLY "LOST", AND A CJ MEDEVAC ANSWER SHOWING HOW INVOLVED A SIMPLE VEHICLE IS, PERFORMING THE SAME TASK

http://www.2carpros.com/questions/1984-ford-laser-r-r-clutch

I AM HERE TO HELP IF I CAN AND I TRY TO OFFER ALTERNATIVE WAYS TO TACKLE YOUR CAR PROBLEM....IF I CAN

HERE'S SOMETHING YOU MIGHT KEEP IN MIND IF YOU HAVE TO PURCHASE GOODIES FOR YOUR RIG---EVEN IN THE FUTURE FOR OTHER CAR NEEDS....SEE MY 1ST ANSWER ON THIS PAGE

http://www.2carpros.com/questions/1977-jeep-cj7-front-wheel-wont-into-4-low/page/2

AS FAR AS PICS IN A TIGHT SPOT---MIRRORS WORK WONDERS!----THE BIGGER YOU CAN CRAM IN THERE-THE BETTER!

BELOW IS AN EXAMPLE OF GETTING A STRAIGHT SHOT AT A TIMING MARK, WITH OUT CRAMMING YOUR HEAD INTO THE FAN TO SEE "STRAIGHT ON"

"WILLY'S" TIMING MARKS ARE ON THE FLYWHEEL--"TC" AND "5 DEGREES" ARE ALL THAT SHOW. THE SIGHT HOLE IS SORTA TUCKED UP UNDER THE STARTER.

1) THE 1ST PIC WAS TAKEN QUITE A WHILE BACK AND I RECENTLY IMPROVED IT'S LOOKS WHEN I REPLACED MY CLUTCH

2) THE MARKS FROM A WHILE BACK--HARD TO SEE

3) THIS IS HOW IT LOOKS BEFORE I REASSEMBLED IT

4) THIS SHOULD BE REAL EZ TO "TIME" WITH THE MIRROR---TO MAKE IT LESS CONFUSING, I ADDED THAT LITTLE VERTICAL LINE TO THE "5 DEGREE" LINE---BACKWARDS IN THE MIRROR IT WILL STAND OUT

'NOTHER COUPLE OF DAYS (AS I HAVE TIME) AND HE'LL BE READY FOR THE VETERANS PARADE

MAYBE THE PROMO DEAL WILL AID YOU ANYWAY!

THE MEDIC

KHL is ok with me. There will always be knights in shining armour going to the rescue of a damsels in distress and we will definitely be here for you.

The 4 pronged relay is just a common relay. You can use the radiator fan relay to test.

Being a manual transmission, you need to check the clutch pedal switch. That is a Neutral start switch and you can only crank the engine with clutch pedal depressed. It is similar to the the brake switch. Btw the connector could be for that switch if you have cruise control.

Radiator and fans should not be a problem as long as it fits.

Hi KHL- (with short note at bottom for MEDEVAC (aka CJM)
I don't have cruise control.
I tested the clutch depression and no matter what, lights come on the panel but nothing else happens.

So I need to clarify, if that connector is for a relay to the starter are you saying I can buy any plug that fits a four prong connector and it will do the job? In other words are you saying that its a matter of simply closing that connector? Then when they say my Honda has a starter relay if I have a manual tranny, they mean are saying the Honda has a wire that goes to the selonoid that when the 4 prong connector is open it won't function. So if I put any relay plug in it, it will close and start? I sure hope that's what you're saying. It'd make my life a lot easier.

I need a generic relay plug right? Is the language right? When I call the parts store, what to I ask for. I now think my problem is my language isn't clear. I ask for a starter relay and they problem are looking for something else for my honda that isn't ever going to be listed. How would you ask for it? Please tell me.

Btw, when I turn my key it even feels different. You know how there's a slight resistance to the key just before you turn over the engine? That's not there anymore. The panel lights all come on and the fuel pump makes a noise in position II but when I go to III it has no resistance and its dead silent.

I'll be at the salvage yard and I plan to look under the dash at the fuse box to see if there's anything there that looks like a relay on a connector I might need.

CJM: thanks for the mirror idea, totally forgot about that one and that's one I should have thought of: I'm bringing a mirror wiht me. As to the timing belt examples, photos and ect, please try to address the problems at hand. I'm not dealing with timing belt adjustments and thankfully won't need to. That's one thing I know is not the problem. The car won't even turn over.

Thanks again. Will keep you posted.

Generic relays are usually 5 prongs so that would not work.
Tell the parts stores you want a 4 pronged relay such as radiator fan relay for Japanese vehicles and you should have it correct.
The 4 prongs are for Battery voltage, ignition switch cranking voltage, ground circuit and one wire for the starter solenoid.
You should be able to pull some of these relays from the salvage yards at minimal cost.
Btw you might need to perform some testings to find out why the starter is not cranking.

The light feel of the key could mean something is wrong with the ignition switch and the cause of the no cranking.

Oh well, I tried. I and someone who works at the salvage yard was at the 1991 Honda civic 4 sp I got parts from yesterday. I told him I needed a 4-pin relay from the fuse box. The only one he found was a large square one. An MITSUBA 12v 4PIN Relay RC-2203. Photo below. It's a four pin but when I checked on line they're being sold on Ebay as a Honda Acura fuel pump relay. What it's doing in this 91 Honda Civic 4 sp I have no guess. But it looks too big for the4-pin wire connector I have hanging I think.

Should I ask for a 4-pronged relay such as an ignition switch relay for Japanese vehickes since the issue might be an ignition one? Or are they all essentially the same?

Will I hurt anything by putting the wrong relay in that 4 prong? I mean, if it fits, does it really ship, if you know what I mean? I just don't know what this thing looks like. So frustrating.

Picture below of what was pulled for me.

Lynne

Razmataz & KHL,
Re: light feel of key. Would that indicate an ignition problem (potentially) even if when I turn the key it does turn the instrumental lights on?

I'll call and ask the parts store for a 4 prong relay like you suggested KHL.

Thanks.
Lynne

Well, I went back to another yard because someone there recommended I look at the relays on their accords. He pulled one and then went to his 1990 Honda Civic (same guy who came to the parts store on Sunday that I met.) He took the starter relay out of his car, put the accord one in. It started. Took it out and turned the key and said "Is this what its doing now?" And the lights came on but no noise. He said I believe this is the culprit you're looking for".

I took it home put it in and it cranked! Guess what, turned out to be the same fuse I was suspicious of. This place charged me $10 for it! The other one gave it to me! So I got wonked again!

Anyway, I'm back to my orignal problem of why will it crank but not turn over. But now I know its not the fuel pump (I heard it when the main relay was installed). The alternator won't turn the belt. So I think that's the problem. It's from sitting outside last winter.

Josh (someone who was interested in the car for his dad) is coming over to "tap" on the alternator and try to free up the motor on it so it turns with WD 40. He's also going to take the spark plugs out and put a little oil in to lubricate the pistons. Don't know if what he wants to do will help or not.

Any other suggestions? The tapping on the alternator, has that ever worked? Another step closer. This nightmare is almost over.

Thanks

I took it home put it in and it cranked: If the alternator is not turning while engine is cranking over it means its seized-up-Lurbrication might work-Good Luck

Is WD 40 adequate for lubricating? What is best to use. Josh is coming over tonight to spray and tap and I'm gong to watch. We're going to try it once, the nlet it set til Friday because I've no choice (I have another life and things must be attended to). So I wanted to be sure we use a good lubricant and WD40 tends to get used for things that something else might work better.

He's gonna tap the screws lightly to the sprocket I think he said. I'm gong to watch and learn and let me know if I can do more or improve it if I need to do it myself. He's got his own life too.

Thianks

The way I do it, is I degut it for further inspection-electrical portion of it okay-I'll attack the bearing-WD40 is just a quick fix to keep it rolling again, My other life is helping the needy to fix their vehicles regarding they listen, follow instructions and be patient-I can't ask for more-

Take the belting off and test if you can crank it up.

Note for KHL and Razamatz below it. KHL PERFECT. The alternator squeals like a pig and I remembered it did that when I had it out for sale and I tried it. The belt even smelled a little but whoever was watching it at the time couldn't see anything turning.

The guy who was going to help me is no longer available now (left town with family). So I called a mechanic who travels but he doesn't come out to my town. I told him about the alternator and here's what he said (paraphrased) Cut the belt, it's probably bad anyway. That's a strain on the alternator. Then tap where the bearings are, lightly, and spray it with WD 40. Don't tap on the screws because those are part of what's housing the alternator and I don't want to loosen those. Only tap on the bearings. (I hope I tap on the right spot on those bearings).

But it won't be able to recharge without the belt on and I'm concerned when people see my car that they are calculating how much trouble it will be to get on the road. If it turns over after I cut the belt, is it hard for mechanics to put a new belt on? It's pretty exposed and easy to get to from what I can tell.

Or should I try tapping and spraying first with the belt on first so that if it works, someone who buys it will be able to at least drive it to somewhere to get another belt before the battery drains?

RAZMATAZ: Have mercy. I fell into this by circumstance. I don't have the time, tools, or knowledge to take apart an alternator and examine it. Besides I know enough to be dangerous, Trust me, you don't want me to take my alternator apart. Right now, I'm obsessed with just getting it to turn over. I'm so close. At least I know what needs to be done.

With much gratitude!

Questions before starting:
Penetro 90 or WD40. Which is better. I have Penetro 90 and will need to by the WD 40 which is okay, it will be used I'm sure.

Attached is a drawing of a Honda Alternator found on the internet . I put a RED arrow where I think I should tap and spray and added a question on the image. Is it correct and if there is more than one bearing is there another place I should also tap?

Do I spray only where "A" is or is there a bearing in the back of the alternator?

Heating: It's getting in the 30s here and will go up by the afternoon, but we've been hitting freezing nights. How does that affact how the alternator might respond to WD40 and to tapping? Should I put a heater in near the drivers side (where the alternator is) and warm it up some? Would that help?

If I'm lucky enough to start it turning, I plan to not rev up the engine, but let it idle for a short time before cutting it off, being careful not to let it over heat. But someone said that it would only over heat if it's being driven. Comments on that or warnings about that regarding the water situation and lack thereof?

If it turns over, should I come out each day and start her or can I assume once it's been moving it will be okay enough to only start it once every few days or so?

thx

opps forgot the image. Here it is.

If the alternator is bad, you won't be going anywhere with or without the belt. If the bearing is seized, whatever you penetrant you use is not going to help because you wont be able to get the spray to the bearings, especially the one at the back of tha alternator.

I believe Penetro 90 should work as well as WD40.

You can tap on the marked point in your diagram and keep your fingers crossed that it works but don't raise your hope too high.

Taking the alternator out isn't too difficult.

KHL you first wrote: Take the belting off and test if you can crank it up. Something confirmed by another mechanic.

Now you discourage it and say it's not too difficult to take the alternator out.

Please clarify:
The reason you have changed your mind about cutting the belt off and tapping. Did someone else weigh in on this and said it was not a good idea?

The reason you mention the alternator is easy to remove? Are you suggesting that the alternator is easy to take out in response to my question about the belt being easy to replace replaced? Or are you suggesting I do it?

thx

I did not change my mind. Still the same. You can take the belt off and if required, taking the alternator out is not too difficult.

To take the belt out, loosen the adjusting nut and pull hard at the belt, the alternator should move inwards to allow the belt to be taken off. Even if you don't take it off, pulling at the belt to release the tension should be sufficient for you to try cranking the engine.

If you need to take the alternator out, after taking the belt off, disconnect the wireharness connector and the 10 mm hex head holding the alternator main wire. Take the adjusting bolt out. Remove the throught bolt nut and pull out the through bolt and you can take the alternator out. That might be a little difficult due to space constraint but it can be done.

OMG! So close!! I sprayed the front, back and whatever I could reach. Then after letting it sit for a few minutes I tried to tap "A" which is closest to me with a small rock chisel, it's heavy, small enough to fit downthere and the wedge of it is easier to tap with then a hammer which won't go in that area very well. I don't have a car lift,and a Honda Civic is pretty low. CLimbing under to tap on it is difficult even though I'm a small person.

But I got in and turned the key. It cranked and then rumbled and shook like it was going to start for the first time in months! But it didn't hold.

That's with no belt removed. My problem is I can't tell if the belt is not turning and that's why it didn't start or if its turning which would indicate other steps are needed.

This car has sat without starting for nearly 8 months. It is warmer now then an hour ago. We're in the 40s here. I wonder too if removing the spark plugs and adding a little oil will help with the pistons. Everything has been sitting. I was told the compression in a couple of cylinders was low but I was also told once it started and ran for a while the heat would help reseal the pistons. I've been told so many things. Who knows?

I'm hesitant to do anything with the alternator, like remove the belt or anything without having another pair of eyes who can say what it's doing. It's a problem I'll have to work on. So close!

I'll try it again in a few minutes.

PS I like the idea of loosening the belt. I can always re-tighten it. I want to see if I can get anyone to come and watch it for me. Then if it doesn't go I'll try to loosen it.

Here's a question. IF the bearing released, wouldn't I be able to turn the alternator belt? Wouldn't the "wheel" that the bearing controls be loose? If so, the bearing still is locked. I may have to loosen the belt. I already tried to pull on it to see if it loosened. I'll tap it some more and try once more, then I'll losse the belt.