Rig was running now its not?

Tiny
RUSS1984
  • MEMBER
  • 1988 NISSAN PATHFINDER
Well got it running and the idle was a little off, so my friend started to adjust it and it started to sputter and then shut off. And now I cant get it to start. So does any one know like how many half screw turns the air and fuel screws should be turned
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Tuesday, October 11th, 2011 AT 8:10 PM

5 Replies

Tiny
DRCRANKNWRENCH
  • EXPERT
Check for leaking vacuum lines, especially to the throttle body and idle control valve.
Check the timing which should be 12 degrees bfore top dead center. Timing marks oare on the crankshaft pulley and lower part of timing cover, near crankshaft pulley.

The mixture reqires that the CO level be tested at the exhaust. I realize this is unpractical for you and I am giving you tests for that, Idle speed switch and all diagrams that I can find with any adjutability.
Idle is a mixture of many sensors and eventually the ECU. So, you may want to check the fuel pressure if you have the means if you continue to have trouble.
I am giving you everything I could find.

If you have any questions or need any further help, lease let me know and I will walk you through evrything that can be done with the means you have.
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Tuesday, October 11th, 2011 AT 9:33 PM
Tiny
RUSS1984
  • MEMBER
K well I was still messing with it, and now when I turn the key the accesseries position all the dash lights come on like normal, and then I give it one more click to try and start it and it makes the starter kick for littleraly a quick second and then its like the power is off and I let go of the key and it sets back into accesseries position and every thing is back on, so now what am I losing power some where or have a short, and if that is the case I have not been messing with the electrical stuff, so how could that have happened
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Tuesday, October 11th, 2011 AT 10:24 PM
Tiny
DRCRANKNWRENCH
  • EXPERT
Check the battery for static and under load conditions.
With a multi-meter on voltage setting, check bettery voltage at posts with all accessories off, etc.
Then test voltage with someone turning the key to the START position. Volatage should barely drop. If it drops dramatically, the battery is bad.
Also check bttaery connections for thigh fit and corrosion at both the terminal and for the positive at the starter and the negative at the block.
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Tuesday, October 11th, 2011 AT 10:42 PM
Tiny
RUSS1984
  • MEMBER
I already checked the terminals and I fallowed both from the battery, and as for testing the batteries voltage, I had my car hooked up with jumper cables to another one to make sure I had power and it didnt change anything at all still same response
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Tuesday, October 11th, 2011 AT 11:36 PM
Tiny
DRCRANKNWRENCH
  • EXPERT
If a battery has a dead cell, it will not take to a jump start very well. The only way to really check is switch out the batteries. The cables have a resistance per foot value. The longer the cable, the more power lost. So, you kind of have to hook a good battery up to the cables of your truck to make sure that is not the case. I am not %1000 sure that if there is something wrong, it won't hurt the good battery. The only safe way is to check with multi-meter.
If the truck has sat for a while, batteries will often act okay at first and then die because the acidity of fluid is to low a Ph to create elctricity or store it. Or, the lead plates in the battery are just old, corroded or have no leasd positons to give.

Also, when you start a truck that has been sitting, all that crud and corrosion gets sucked right in and clogs and hoses making them crack or hoses crack from the vacuum as they are so brittle.
I am sorry that the instructions for the Idle/mixture sucked. The only thing you can get to check it is a UEGO Gauge that the Fast and Furious guys use to tune on the fly. They are too expensive for this. I think CO minotrs don't do as good a job but you just need it close engouh to run.
I think getting some gaskt for the trottle body, EGR, IACV and intake and then some carb cleaner for parts without any rubber and brake cleaner, which is still harsh on old rubber so try to avoid rubber. Get some motor cleaning or bottle brushes for the intake and clean every pivot on any part with rubber to keep it safer. Then replace any vacuum line that feels brittle. You would be suprised how little a vacuum leak has to be to cause issues.
Depending on how long it sat, the gas may be bad. If it sat for more than 2-6 months and has less than 1/4 tank of gas, you might try a gallon or 2 and get some tharting fluid.
You just got to get it spinning to suck all that crap out.
I don't think the adjustment you maid killed it, it was just hangin by a straw and just running it makes it tough to keep it running.

You do have to make sure the battery is good under load and cable jumpers cannot make up the volts lost from their length. In cars to day it is 1000 Ohns or resistance, it used to be like like 100 Ohms per foot. Sometimes those wheel around chrger/jumpers work ok, but if you got a bad battery, it won't help.

The worst thing in all of this is the longer it sat the more cloged the injectors got and that minute it ran jammed all the crap into them. You can carfully remove them and spray them off but you will do more harm than good if the seals fails and they are $10-50 PER injector. You can find something to work in the HELP section of Advane or Auto Zone.
Check the fuel filter if you have a secomdary one in the engine compartment, remember fuel is 60 PSI for like at least a half hour after running.
Try strating spray straight into the intake and get a solid battery. Take it easy on the starter spray because I am not recommending it. Just saying.
I wish I was there to help, nothing like an all nighter and some brewskies fighting with a truck to get it running.
Anything else, just post and I will get bask ASAP. I will be up for a few hours working, it is 7:33 CST, where I am now and I usually stop working at 10-11PM.
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Wednesday, October 12th, 2011 AT 12:34 AM

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