no starter operation?

check battery and starter for condition including load test most places do for free. clean battery terminal ends as well. This guide can help us fix it

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/starter-not-working-repair

Please run down this guide and report back.

Both the starter and battery are new, I had a load test done yesterday and the truck passed the load test. When I turn the key the dash will light up but once I turn the switch to start the truck does nothing. The dash lights will dim down but once I let go of the switch the lights will return to normal.

check fusible links in pic they may have only one or two strands connected and doing this or it's the battery cables have bad connections or are bad and not sending power like the ground cable

I replaced both fusible links and drove the truck and still the same results no start until something cools off for about 30mins..

then it's got to be a bad ground from battery to engine or the cables are bad I cannot think of anything else and am out of suggestions.

Chevy 1500 Silverado 4x4 automatic 1988 with a 350 engine. The fuse labeled E C M - I G N in the fuse block blows as soon as you try to start the engine. This is a 10 amp fuse. also There is a loud buzz coming from the E C M unit above the heater blower when you turn the engine off. That noise has been there for awhile and never gave me problems before. The fuse has just started to blow yesterday.Also my injectors are not putting out gas. I have the TBI. I need supervision and guidance real bad can you help? I do not know the liters but my engine is a 350 Also the heater blower works but no air will blow on the windshield. the heater works though.

for heater check for a vacuum leak for vacuum motor for mode meaning defrost floor etc. the ecm fuse goes to the brake light switch with a pink/white wire it then turns to a pink /blk wire which goes to air diverter valve and egr there can be a sort anywhere along there. if that stuff is still hooked up if not check to see if it's hitting something shorting it out. check all things in pic for fuel problem the buzing noise may be coming form fuel pump relay.

emailed reply:

I take this moment to thank you for your tips. I do not know how I
fixed the problem but I wiggled some wires at the brake switch and the
ignition switch then slipped in a new fuse and turned the key. It
started right up.

either it's a bad connection or the ignition switch may be starting to go bad.

When I try to start the truck, all I get is a clicking sound coming from the starter. I have replaced the starter, the ignition key cylinder, and all battery terminals are clean and tight. I don't know what else could be causing it. Your help would be much appreciated.

Check for power at the purple wire on the neutral safety switch. No power Retest the ignition switch power there and No power at starter solenoid terminal wire replace NSS.

Engine Mechanical problem
1989 Chevy Silverado V8 Two Wheel Drive Automatic

I got a new starter for my truck and it turns but wont engage into flywheel.I had the starter checked and it works fine. I checked battery and its fine too. What can i do now?

The starter drive pinion is to far away from the flexplate.Try to shim it.

i looked at the starter while i had someone crank truck and the pinion dont even go outwhile on my truck. It cranked up once but shut off fast

i have a 1988 chevy 1500 5.7 that drags when starting. It just started. I have replaced starter + and- wires battery.I dont know whatelse to look for my voltmeter in dash shows low volts in the red when key is in on position and like 13.7 when running what can this be i am open to all suggestions thanks in advance
can this be s ignition swich the truck has been timed since this started

Can you turn the crank by hand? You may need to remove spark plugs and accessory belt/s. Then try to crank.

Use a digital multimeter across battery posts, with key in the crank position, what is the reading? Take the voltage reading first.

it does turn by hand not to hard normal and you want me to use avoltmeater while cranking the truck

Have a helper turn key to crank, digital multimeter leads across battery posts. Usually the voltage reading shouldn't drop below 10 volts. Let us know.

I checked the connections to the battery and the battery voltage all seem to be good. I replaced the ignition starter switch, I cannot hear any clicks or rotations from the motor. I jumped the starter solenoid and the truck turned over. I have lights to my dash and headlights, they do not dim when I try to start the engine. I checked my ignition fuse and it was good. I do not know where the starter relay is or the neutral safety switch. What do you think is wrong?

The neutral safety switch is a good suspect. It is on the side of the transmission, by the shifter linkage.

Look in the under-hood fuse box, if you have one, for the starter relay. If it is not there, I will have to consult a service manual.

The previous owner either took the under the hood fuse box out or the truck never had one.

The original diagram is almost impossible to interpret due to the bizarre way the ignition switch is drawn. I cannot find any reference to the neutral safety switch on the wiring diagram, but it is listed as being in one of two locations, either at the base of the steering column, or on the side of the transmission.

As best I can tell, if you go to the ignition switch, you should see a purple wire and two red wires. The purple goes to the starter solenoid. One of the red wires comes from or goes to the fuse box. Check if you have twelve volts on those red wires. I am still looking for where the neutral safety switch is in the circuit.

Okay I have seen the a switch on the base of the column but, it only has two prongs and the auto parts stores only have either five or four prong switches.

You do have an automatic transmission, right? I will be back tomorrow to see how you are doing. I am going to try to find a different diagram. I do not see this on the diagram I have now, but from memory, a lot of wiring harnesses are made for use with an automatic or manual transmission. When a manual is used, there is usually a clutch switch so that pedal has to be pressed before the starter will work. When an automatic is used, a short jumper harness is plugged in, in place of that switch. Look in front of where the clutch pedal would be and see if there is a two-wire connector with a short loop of wire in it. If you see that, tell me the colors of the wires going to it.

I have a automatic transmission.

Hi Cody,

I found this wiring diagram for you, please use a test light to see if you are losing power somewhere.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-test-light-circuit-tester

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-a-neutral-safety-switch-works

Please run some tests and get back to us so we can continue helping you.

Best, Ken

So I did quite a bit of work to my Chevrolet c20 because it blew a head gasket. so I replaced a bunch of stuff on it since I had it torn apart. it has new spark plugs, new spark plug wires, new exhaust, new head and a new intake and a new starter. whenever I went to go hook up my starter hooked it up to the alternator and tried turning it over and it just clicked once. so one up online and was like well maybe I connected it wrong. so I saw that the positive cable supposed to run to the starter so I ran it through the starter tried cranking it and no crank no start not even a click. so I have two questions, one is does the positive cable from the battery go to the alternator or to the starter? Second question is, what else can cause it to not turn over?

Welcome to 2CarPros.

The positive on the battery runs to the starter (The larger bolt). From there, power is run via a fusible link to the alternator. There should be another smaller wire running to the starter solenoid which only gets power when the key is in the start position.

First, the schematics I have attached are for both a gas and diesel model and show variations based on what you have. However, if you look at picture 1, it shows power going from the battery to the starter and then there is a broken line that takes it to the alternator. Follow the black wire from battery to the starter and then the dash line to a red fusible link which goes to the alternator.

The second picture shows the starter. Power goes to the larger bolt from the battery. It is hot at all times. The small purple wire goes to the solenoid also, but to the smaller bolt. That is hot only when the key is in the start position.

With all of that in mind, if you ran power only to the alternator, power would have gone through a fusible link between the starter and alternator. I can almost guarantee that is fried, so you will have to check it for continuity. If there isn't continuity, replace it with another fusible link of the same gauge.

Here are a few links you may find helpful. One discusses how to replace a starter. I realize you have already done that, but it shows how the wires are installed. The next discusses if the starter won't engage. It shows how to check it. The remaining are related to electrical testing.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-a-starter-motor

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/starter-not-working-repair


https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-voltmeter

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-test-light-circuit-tester


Let me know if this helps. Also, if you have questions about the pics, let me know. The one showing the alternator is confusing because it shows both set ups.

Take care,
Joe

So, one day I decided to replace my intake manifold on my 350 small block (keep in mind it worked fine before this) and after I got it installed and every things it would crank but I could hear the belt moving the fan until that noise slowly shuts off into a lot of loud ticking sounds.

Hi,

If the engine turns and doesn't start, we need to see if there is ignition spark as well as fuel to the engine. Interestingly, you mentioned the fan turns until you hear a clicking. That simply means the battery is getting extremely weak. However, if it turns the engine properly when charged, it should start.

So, the first thing I want you to do is check to see if there are diagnostic trouble codes. This has an OBD1 system which doesn't require a scan tool. All that is needed is a short jumper wire or even a paper clip.

Here is a link that shows how to retrieve codes:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/buick-cadillac-chevy-gmc-oldsmobile-pontiac-gm-1983-1995-obd1-code-definitions-and-retrieval-method

If you are unable to get codes, then we need to check for spark and fuel to the engine. The easiest thing to do is see if it starts with starting fluid for a couple seconds. If it does, then we know the issue is related to the fuel system. If it still doesn't even try to start, we have to inspect the ignition system.

If you feel uncomfortable using starting fluid, here are two links that will explain how to check fuel pressure and for spark:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-an-ignition-system

________________________________

Here are the manufacturer's specs for pressure:

1985 Chevy Truck K 10 P/U 4WD V8-350 5.7L
Fuel System Pressure Specifications
Vehicle Powertrain Management Fuel Delivery and Air Induction Fuel Pump Fuel Pressure Specifications Pressure, Vacuum and Temperature Fuel System Pressure Specifications
FUEL SYSTEM PRESSURE SPECIFICATIONS
Fuel Pressure .................... 27.5 to 44.8 kPa (4 to 6.5 psi)
Fuel Pump Vacuum .................... 50.6 kPa (15 inches Hg)


_________________________________

Let me know what you find or if you have other questions.

Take care,
Joe