Inconsistent curb idle and low power at hi RPMs

Does this carb have an idle stop solenoid on the carb?

I believe so, yes. That's the round plastic thing with a plunger on one end and a locknut on the other that has a vacuum hose and an electrical connect, right? Where the plunger meets the solenoid, the rubber is completely destroyed and it disconnects completely from the solenoid body, so I just backed the screw off so it wouldn't contact the solenoid at all. I'll post a picture when I get home. The only thing stopping the throttle from completely closing are the fast cam idle screw and the curb idle screw (or stop screw maybe?).

Is there one on the carb that is electric?

MAYBE YOUR HIGH IDLE STEPS ARE ENGAGED???

IS THE CHOKE PARTIALLY CLOSED....EVEN A TEENY IT?

DO YOU KNOW HOW TO TUNE YOUR RIG?

DO YOU HAVE TOOLS?

A MANUAL?

HAVE YOU READ SOME OF MY STUFF?

LET'S HEAR A NOVEL ABOUT YOUR JEEP/ INTENTIONS...MAYBE THIS WILL BE THE MOST YOU'LL GET TO WRITE.....I GENERALLY WRITE THE NOVELS, YOUR END THROWS IN A SENTENCE OR TWO, AS WE GO!.....THAT'S OK, I LIKE FIXIN' CJs!

DO YOU LOVE YOUR JEEP?


THE MEDIC

DIS-REGARD MY PIC ABOVE, I JUST RE-READ YOUR POST (WAS IN A HURRY WITH WIFEY, 1ST TIME)

I DON'T KNOW YOUR EMISSIONS RULES IN YOUR AREA

I SUSPECT THE OLE STEPPER MOTOR BBD CARB JUST AIN'T WORKING LIKE IT DID WHEN IT WAS NEW.......YOUR REBUILD MAYBE "PERFECT", BUT THE REST OF THE CRAP THAT MADE IT WORK, IS 27 YEARS OLD, I DOUBT THE "CRAP" HAS BEEN SERVICED OR REPLACED TO KEEP IT IN TIP TOP WORKING ORDER. IT'S PROBABLY MORE OF A BURDEN, THAN A HELP.

YOUR IDLE SPEED SHOULD BE AT 680 RPMs.....HIGH IDLE DOES CAUSE DIESELING, WHEN YOU SHUT IT OFF.

YOU CANNOT PROPERLY ADJUST YOUR MIXTURE SCREWS, WITH THE IDLE WAY UP THERE....NOR CAN YOU "TIME" THE JEEP AT THAT HIGH RPM

YOU NEED NOT WORRY ABOUT "DWELL", AS THE IGNITION MODULE DOES THAT FOR YOU. ALL YOU NEED TO DO IS "PROPERLY TIME IT".....IDLE SPEED CLOSE TO CORRECT, AND VACUUM ADVANCE LINE PLUGGED OFF WHILE DOING THE PROCEDURE.

I CANNOT STRESS GETTING THE IDLE SPEED CORRECT ENOUGH...OTHERWISE THE TIMING WILL BE OFF.

YOU NEED TO GET RID OF ANY VACUUM LEAKS.....OPEN PORTS/ BROKEN, OPEN, HOSES/ CARB MOUNTING/ LEAKING VACUUM OPERATED GIZMOS/ AND INTAKE MANIFOLD TO THE HEAD

IT TAKES ONLY TWO VACUUM LINES TO RUN THE ENGINE---"PCV" AND "VACUUM ADVANCE"..........IF YOU HAVE POWER BRAKES OR AUTOMATIC TRANNY, YOU NEED TWO MORE.

IF YOU DO HAVE VACUUM LEAK(S)---THIS IS SORTA WHAT IS HAPPENING:

YOUR CARB/ ENGINE IS GETTING TOO MUCH AIR (YOUR CARB IS DESIGNED FOR USING A SPECIFIC AMOUNT OF AIR)

WITH MORE AIR, YOU MUST ADJUST TO GIVE IT MORE FUEL

WITH AN "AWKWARD" AIR FUEL MIX, WHEN YOU OPEN UP THE THROTTLE, THE THROTTLE PLATES SORTA "EXPONENTIALLY" THROWS THE ENTIRE AIR/ FUEL MIX EVEN MORE OUTTA WHACK......YOU MAY MAKE IT RUN DECENT AT LOW SPEEDS....OR YOU MIGHT MAKE IT RUN DECENT AT HIGHER SPEEDS.....BUT YOU PROBABLY WON'T GET IT "FLUENTLY"/"EFFICIENTLY" DOING BOTH



LOOK AT May 13, 2012, AT THIS POST----SAME YEAR AS YOURS

http://www.2carpros.com/questions/1982-jeep-cj7-ignition-problem-spark-distributor-cap

WHAT YEAR/ ENGINE/ CONDITION UNDER THE HOOD?

SEND A PIC(S), SO WE GET A FEEL OF WHAT WE'RE WORKIN' ON

THE MEDIC

WONDERFUL! I was hoping you'd respond, Medic, since I have been reading quite a few of your reviews. That's why I posted on this forum instead of another one. I have lots of problems with my Jeep so you'll see plenty of posts from me over the next few weeks/months/years. Would love to work with you to get my rig running as best as possible.

To answer one of your questions...I LOVE MY JEEP. She is my baby. I've been waiting a long time to take care of her, and am willing to take all the time (and hopefully not too much money) to make sure she runs as well as I can possibly make her run. I played with '84 and '83 CJ7s all through high school. Did some minor repairs, but never could call one my own. Now I can. I am an engineer so I have a slight mechanical disposition, but I have little experience doing high end engine work.

Basic CJ specs. In line 6 cyl. 258. 4 speed. Before I bought her, most was stock. I'm the third owner. The second owner replaced the oil filter and that's about it. The one before did a decent job keeping up with basic necessities such as oil, hoses, lubricants, etc. Things are pretty gunked up under the hood. Lots of grease covering most everything. Standard 1985 wear. Tubs rusted, some surface rust on frame. That sort of thing. So I know I have my work cut out for me. Which is actually exactly the way I want it.

OK here's my new update. This is definitely an air/fuel mixture issue. This is how I know. At normal operating engine temps, I noticed my choke plate was still pretty closed. I pulled off the carb again and adjusted the cover for the electronic choke to lean up the mix a bit, and now at normal operating temperatures the choke is close to wide open. However this made things worse. I have terrible power at higher RPMs but the good news is my idle is at a nice smooth 700RPM. Again, I'm eating through fuel which is no good. The new distributor cap did make a difference. The old one had some pretty bad corrosion.

Quick side note, I found a source of a gas leak. The hose to my liquid check valve on the back fender was completely disconnected and open. The connect port to the valve was broken, but I did my best to find a hose that could clamp down on what was left of it. I'll have to find another lvalve at a junkyard to ensure a good tight fit.

The engine emissions in NC are pretty tight I'm afraid, so I'm going to have to do my best to make sure things aren't too dirty out of the exhaust. But we have a full year to get everything in working order to pass inspection.

So here's my current situation, to sum things up. Tight choke - good engine power, bad idle. Loose choke - good idle, bad engine power. I'll try and adjust the electronic choke to find a nice halfway point. In the meantime, you might be right about a vacuum leak. What's the best way to go hunting for one? I'll adjust the electronic choke cover once more and retime again. I'll make sure I can get a good idle before retiming though. Glad you highlighted that.

Should I just buy a new carburetor? I can...sort of afford it. Thanks for the feedback. Looking forward to getting her working well.

Here are some picks. One of which is the solenoid plactic-thingy that I think racefan was talking about. Where would the idlestop solenoid be? Also, there looks like some kind of aftermarket mechanical choke was installed, but I have no idea if it's connected to anything or not.

I GOTTA GO TO WORK SOON, SO I'LL JUST ADD A LITTLE FOR NOW

1ST PIC---CARB BOWL VENTS

2ND PIC---WHAT IS THE WHITE DEALEE W/SWITCH???

3RD PIC---THIS IS THE SOLENOID RACEFAN SPOKE OF....USUALLY AT THIS AGE AND MODIFICATIONS....THEY DO NOT EVEN WORK ANYMORE

WHAT DO THEY CHECK/ HOW DO THEY CHECK, AS FAR AS YOUR EMISSIONS?

ARE YOU "GRANDFATHERED IN" BECAUSE OF AGE?...IF SO, WHAT DO THEY "LET BY"?

STILL NO PIC OF JEEP?

YOU ARE ONLY A "BORDER" NORTH OF ME

I WANTED TO KNOW WHETHER YOU WERE SPEAKING OF THE "CHOKE PLATE" BEING CLOSED, OR ARE YOU SPEAKING OF THE "THROTTLE PLATES"?

EVER THINK ABOUT A MANUAL CHOKE?

IF YOU HAVE A LOW IDLE, THEN A HIGH IDLE OCCURS, SEVERAL THINGS COULD CAUSE THIS, COMMON ONES ARE: STICKING LINKAGE (IF YOU CAN PHYSICALLY, NOW THE THROTTLE SHAFT, AND IT IDLES DOWN, THIS COULD BE THE PROBLEM)----WEAK RETURN SPRING---HIGH IDLE CAM---SOLENOID WON'T BACK OFF---THROTTLE PLATES/ SHAFT BENT, THROTTLE PLATES TO NOT "SEAL" EVENLY (ONE OPENED MORE THAN THE OTHER, EVEN SLIGHTLY)

ANOTHER PROBLEM WITH MIX SCREWS IS THAT "JOE IDIOT" SOMEWHERE IN THE PAST, TIGHTENED THEM SO TIGHT THAT HE RUINED THE SEATS....ACCURATE ADJUSTMENT WILL BE ALMOST IMPOSSIBLE NOW.

WILL SEND YOU A MESSAGE SOON....CLICK ON YOUR NAME TOP OF MOST ANY PAGE, LOOK TO THE LEFT FOR MESSAGES

BEFORE YOU GO SPENDING $$$, LET ME ASSIST YOU ON A POSSIBLE WAY TO SAVE!

THE MEDIC

OH YEAH, GIVE ME A RUN DOWN ON THE SYSTEMS YOU HAVE, ANY MODS

THE MEDIC

OK good news. It doesn't look like my vehicle has to pass an emissions test, only a safety inspection (headlights, wipers, turn signals, etc, which by the way it would fail). So we can rip off as much as you'd like from the carburetor.

I was talking about the choke plates earlier, not the throttle plates. And yes, I have thought about a mechanical choke. Actually, I think that white switch thingy in pic 2 above may have been an attempt to install a mechanical choke. I don't think the throttle plates stick because every time I pop the hood to take a look at why the heck it's idling so high, the idle screw is firmly on the stop. The fast idle cam screw isn't engaged either. The the throttle return springs feel pretty tight. The throttle plates might not be sealing evenly. When I rebuilt it, I did notice some sort of dried black resin stuff on the edges of the throttle blades as well as the barrels.

As far as the mixture screws...well. I think Joe Shmoe may have done a number on them. I don't have any limiter caps. They're gone. Also when I was reading about carb tuning, this "full rich stop" kept coming up. I don't have a full rich stop. If I keep backing off the mixture screws, they pop right out. Another thing that might be a problem is when I tighten the mixture screws all the way in, the car still runs. Granted, that's only for a fast idle, but still might be a problem.

She's dieseling really bad now. I have to pop the clutch or she'll literally just keep chugging. I let it go for a full minute just to see how long she'd keep going.

As far as systems...not entirely sure what you mean, so I'll just go through everything. 3 speed dana 300 transfer case. 4 speed tranny with reverse. AMC 20 (or 30 i can't remember) rear axle which needs a lot of work. Dana 30-or-something front. Locking front hubs. In line 6 L head AMC 258 ci engine. Some nice bookshelf speakers lying in the back which were a nice surprise after I bought her. Headlights used to work 50% of the time. Now they don't work at all. No blinker lever, but I have a new one I haven't installed just yet. Floor dimmer switch for headlights doesn't work (probably why the headlights don't work either). I have an aftermarket tach that I haven't installed yet (it's easier to use for timing than the multimeter so I've put it off). Voltmeter and oil pressure gauges appear to work ok. None of the temperature amenities work (heat, AC, vent, etc.). Looks like she has a new radiator. Maybe a new catalytic converter? It just looks kind of shiny which is rare for things underneath jeeps. New fuel filter. New-ish air filter. Everything looks stock besides the mystery switch under the steering wheel. So literally no mods (except for the uninstalled tach).

I'll play with her some more at some point today. Let me know what I should try.

Here are some more pics of the CJ itself. It has a hard top, but I almost always have it off. That open air feeling is one of my favorite parts of owning a jeep. By the way, nice trailer, Medic. Bout the best way I can think of camping with a jeep.

PS - you may have found a rival novel writer. Or a fellow one.

Whoops, two were upside down. Let's try again.

One more thing I just remembered. Before I started the carb rebuild, I noticed that the stepper motor was disconnected. After the rebuild, I reconnected the stepper motor. Perhaps it was disconnected because it wasn't working anymore?

Also no power brakes.

HOW YOU FEEL ABOUT A REBUILT CARB---I CAN "HELP" YOU GET IT FOR AROUND $200 (SAVE $50 OR SO)....IF YOU ARE GAME, IT WILL BE FOR A '79 NOT A '83-'86, JUST LIKE WHAT RICK HAS NOW

THIS WILL BE A REBUILT CARB USING "GOOD" AND "INSPECTED PARTS" AND WILL HAVE A WARRANTY

LET ME KNOW

WITH YOUR IDLE SO HIGH, YOU ARE OPERATING OFF OF THE MAIN CIRCUIT (MAINS)---NOT THE IDLE CIRCUIT.....THE SCREWS MAY ALTER THE HIGH IDLE A LITTLE, BUT WITH THEM SCREWED IN, THE ENGINE IS S.UCKING FUEL FROM THE VENTURIES (MAINS) NOT THE LITTLE HOLES JUST ABOVE THE THROTTLE PLATE (IDLE CICUIT)

FORGET THE "LIMITERS", THEY ARE FOR DUMMIES (NEITHER OF US WILL QUALIFY, ONCE I'M DONE WITH YOU)

1ST PIC---FUEL FILTER...ARE YOU SET UP LIKE THIS? FORGET THE REGULATOR AND MINI GAUGE...I CANNOT SEE A RETURN LINE IN YOUR ITTY BITTY PICS

PICS 2-3-4 DO YOU HAVE THESE ITEMS? MIRROR IS NOT A MUST

THE MEDIC

Yes, there is a return line for the fuel filter. One in. Two out - return and the other to the carb. Sorry the pics are so small. I'll fix that in future posts. I have all of the tools in your pictures (multimeter, tach, timing light) but I don't have a vacuum gauge. I can pick one up though.

I disconnected the stepper motor and played with it a bit. I was able to drop the idle to 680 today and it stayed running fine. Took it for a test run and the power wasn't as high as it used to be a day or so ago but at least I could make it up a hill. When I pulled to a stop the idle would drop back down to 680, and then bump back up to around 1100 after a few seconds.

As far as the rebuilt carb...I'd almost rather just pay another $50 or $100 for a brand new Holly or Weber. Also looked at guides about disconnecting all emissions regulations stuff. Pretty much leaving only the PCV and the advanced vacuum lines like you said. Also wiring the distributor directly to the ignition module.

Awaiting instructions.

I FOUND THE WEBER FOR RIGHT AT $200

THE "DGEV" I HAD CAME WITH AN ADAPTER TO FIT AN AMC INTAKE MANIFOLD. IT WAS A PROGRESSIVE CARB, MEANING IT WAS ACTUALLY A ONE BARREL THAT OPENED UP INTO A 2 BARREL AS YOU PUSHED YOUR ACCELERATOR 3/4 OF THE WAY AND MORE

I SPENT AN ADDITIONAL $200 OR SO FOR JETS AND AIR DEALEES AND SPENT OVER A YEAR ATTEMPTING TO MAKE IT WORK CORRECTLY, I SPOKE TO MANY PEOPLE AND KEPT RECORDS ON MILEAGE, I DID SO MANY PLUG CUTS, I THOUGHT I WOULD WEAR OUT THE PLUG HOLES. AFTER STRIPPING OUT 2 OF THE CARBS SCREWS, I GAVE UP ON IT.

I WON SOME $$$ IN THE LOTTERY AND SPENT IT ALL ON AN OFFENHAUSER 4 BBL INTAKE, AND A HOLLEY 390 CFM......IF I RECALL CORRECTLY, OVER $600 TO BEGIN WITH......I INSTALLED AN O2 SENSOR IN MY EXHAUST INCHES PAST MY HEADMAN HEDDERS. AT 1ST I TRIED A VOLTMETER, AND NOT TOO MUCH LATER I BOUGHT A CRAPPY AIR/FUEL GAGE, FOLLOWED BY A NICER ONE (THIS GAUGE WAS ABOUT $80).

USING THE A/F GAUGE, I NO LONGER HAD TO DO PLUG CUTS, AS "LEAN"--"STOICH"--"RICH" WERE NOW DISPLAYED AS RED-YELLOW-GREEN LEDs. I WAS ABLE TO "JET" MY CARB FOR THE WAY I DRIVE AND USING MY "ON DASH" VACUUM GAUGE I SELECTED THE CORRECT POWER VALVE.

NEITHER THE WEBER OR THE HOLLEY WERE "CORRECT" STRAIGHT OUT OF THE BOX....IN FACT, BOTH RAN "LEAN".......THE "O2 METHOD" MAY HAVE HELPED W/ THE WEBER'S JETTING IF I HAD KNOWN ABOUT THE METHOD. IT'S NOW WATER UNDER THE BRIDGE, I'M A HOLLEY KINDA GUY NOW, AND ALL OF IT'S PARTS ARE AVAILABLE LOCALLY.

I REALLY THINK IN THE LONG RUN, THE '79 BBD IS GONNA BE THE "WISE WAY" AND THE LESSER "PAIN IN THE BUTT" FIX....AS WELL AS CHEAPER.......JUST ASK RICK!

WE CAN GET THIS CHEAPER!

TAKE THE PLUG OFF OF THE BACK OF THE CARB, LEAVE IT OFF

WHAT WE CAN TRY FOR NOW IS TO REMOVE THE SOLENOID DEALEE THAT THAT INCREASES THE IDLE SPEED, REMOVE THE WHOLE BRACKET OFF OF THE CARB....RE-INSTALL THE SCREWS

DIS-CONNECT THE WIRES, PLUG/CAP THE VACUUM LINE

USE THIS '79 AS A GUIDE (PIC) PLUG CAP ALL VACUUM LINES EXCEPT FOR PCV AND VACUUM ADVANCE TO CARB (BOTH ARE AT BOTTOM, AND FACING YOU)........MAIN THING IS, EVERYTHING NOT USED IS CAPPED OFF, DOING THIS MAY ELIMINATE UNKNOWN VACUUM LEAKS ALSO

2ND PIC IS INTAKE MANIFOLD, REMOVE ALL VACUUM LINES AND CAP THE PORTS

LETS TIME THIS PUPPY NOW....TEMPORARILY REMOVE THE VACUUM ADVANCE FROM THE DISTRIBUTOR AND SHOVE A BOLT IN THE HOSE (SEE PIC 3)

HOOK UP YOUR DWELL/ TACH GET THE IDLE TO 680----KEEP IT THERE AS YOU TIME

WHEN YOU FINISH YOU SHOULD BE SEE THIS IN YOUR LIGHT, EVERY TIME IT FLASHES (THIS IS 9 DEGREES BTDC, IN MY 3RD PIC) 8 OR 10 IS OK......WHITE CHALK CORRESPONDS WITH BLACK LINE.....YOU ARE AT 680 RPM

NOW LETS HOOK UP THE VACUUM ADVANCE HOSE BACK UP TO THE DISTRIBUTOR----NOW ADJUST IDLE BACK TO 680 RPM (IT WILL GET FASTER, WHEN HOOKED BACK UP TO MANIFOLD VACUUM)

WHEN YOU GET TO THIS POINT---I WILL TALK YOU THRU CHECKING YOUR MECHANICAL AND VACUUM ADVANCE TO INSURE THEY WORK, USING THE TIMING LIGHT

THE MEDIC

THIS IS WHAT YOU SHOULD SEE AT EACH FLASH WHEN YU ARE AT 9 DEGREES

THE MEDIC

Quick question. On the label under the hood, it says to set the timing while at 1600RPM to 9* advance. Do I set it to 9* at 1600RPM or at the 680RPM idle? I've been following the hood label.

Also the mark jumps around quite a bit during timing. Maybe two or three degrees every few seconds.

After work tomorrow I'll make the adjustments and post an update. Thanks again.

Also you sold me on the rebuilt carb. I'm open to it if necessary.

I'LL EXPLAIN ACQUIRING THE CARB AT A LOWER COST THIS EVENING....I'M A SLOW HUNT AND PECKER, MUST GO TO WORK SOON!

THE HOOD LABEL WORKED FINE......WHEN EVERYTHING WAS AT TIP-TOP PERFORMANCE/ AND WAS HOOKED UP/ COMPUTER DOIN' IT'S THANG....YOU KNOW, DURING THE CHILDHOOD DAYS OF YOUR JEEP!

YOUR JEEP IS NOW SLOWLY GROWING INTO A 1979 MODEL----MECHANICALLY THE ENGINE'S INTERNALS ARE DESIGNED THE SAME/ ARE THE SAME FROM 1976-1986....WITHOUT THE COMPUTER INTERFERING, TIMING IS TIMING!!!

QUESTION? GO TO ADVANCE AUTO OR AUTOZONE, LOOK UP THE DISTRIBUTOR FOR A '79 AND '85 258 (MOTORCRAFT, OEM) THE PART NUMBERS ARE THE SAME!

'76-'78 AND SOME BEFORE, USED A CRAPPY PRESTOLITE IGNITION....THE TIMING WAS CLOSE TO THE SAME (BEFORE THEY GOT SMART IN'79) THE ONLY MAJOR DIFFERENCES OVER THE YEARS WAS THE CARBS SIZES/ INTAKE (1 BBL THEN 2BBL)----AND THE STUPID PLASTIC VALVE COVER IN THE LATTER YEARS......AND OF COURSE THE STUPID COMPUTER!

IF YOU GET TIME, CHECK OUT THE LINKS IN "JUNE 5TH"---THIS POST

http://www.2carpros.com/questions/1982-jeep-cj7-ignition-problem-spark-distributor-cap

THE MEDIC

Watched your videos. Reminded me of stuff I watched in high school to first figure out what's actually happening under the hood. The advance videos where very helpful. I have a much better understanding of what's going on down there.

I completely forgot to tell you, but I have a Carter BBD from a 79' or earlier! The guy I bought the jeep from threw in the old carb and the intakes/exhaust (one of the exhaust ports is busted). Pics below. Granted, it probably needs to be rebuilt too, and of course, there's no warranty. But we might as well give that a shot before buying a third one. Also rebuilding carbs is kind of like playing with legos for me. I love it. Practice makes perfect.

About to plug vacuum lines and such to see how she does. Also, I was messing around with the headlight switch. The inside of the adapter that clips to the switch was melted out pretty bad. The line to the headlights was rubbing against the dome lights/ground and shorting out. Burned up the whole thing. I wrapped the headlight wire with fancy stretchy electrical tape, no more short, plugged in the switch, but still no good. The lead on the switch that clips to the headlight wire is black and loose. Trying to do a continuity test. Where's a good ground under the dashboard?

Update. Followed your instructions. All vacuum lines removed except to the PCV and vacuum advance. I removed a decent amount of the hoses but not all of them. Set the idle at 680 and timed it to 9* advanced. Runs great. Wonderful power at all RPMs. However, when I pull to a stop, the idle will still shift up. At first it settles to 680 and then bumps up around 900. Better than before, but still not ideal. Are there more emissions control stuff I should remove? See pics.

1st pic - Vacuum lines on top of valve cover. Remove?
2nd pic - Vacuum lines on air filter cover. Remove?
3rd pic - Vacuum line goes from here directly to advance on distributor.
4th pic - Big vacuum thingy on passenger side firewall. Remove?
5th pic - More vacuum lines. This ones connected to a diaphragm at the intake manifold. I think you said you cut yours off and welded it, right? I don't have those capabilities but at least I can plug this line.
6th pic - EGR valve with two of the vacuum ports plugged (it was a line that went into the left side of the carb if you're looking from the front of the jeep to the back). Remove the valve and/or hoses?

Heard about rewiring distributor directly to ignition module instead of through whatever's hanging off the catalytic converter.

Ready to check the mechanical and vacuum advance when you are, sir. Thanks a ton.

You probably want to see the pics I'm talking about.

CJ PASSENGER MIRROR

MORE FORWARD AND UP TO BE SEEN THRU THE WINDSHIELD (MINE IS FULLY CONVEX FOR A BETTER VIEW)

THE DRIVER'S MIRROR SORTA 45s OUT, TO BE SEEN THRU THE DRIVER'S DOOR

THE MEDIC

IF YOU DON'T HAVE A MECHANICAL "STICKAGE" LIKE THE THROTTLE SHAFT, OR OTHER BINDING LINKAGES, DO THIS:

THIS IS EZily REVERSIBLE

TRY THIS IN PIC BELOW, RE-TWEAK YOUR MIX AND IDLE SCREWS

SEE IF THE THE HIGH IDLE CEASES

THE MEDIC

VACUUM GAUGE USE---WHEN YOU GET IN THIS POST, AT THE BOTTOM OF THE 1ST LINK WITHIN IT, YOU WILL SEE THE VACUUM GAUGE SCENARIOS (ENGINE CONDITION WITHOUT TEARING INTO IT!)

http://www.2carpros.com/questions/2010-all-other-cars-how-to-change-gears-for-fuel

DID YOU GET MY ALBUMS?

THE MEDIC

Got the albums. I get bored/tired sitting at a computer all day at work, so it'll be nice to flip through the pics. I'll make the gasket and tweak the screws tomorrow after work hopefully.

While I had the steering column dismantled (by the way, couldn't find the right screw at walmart. I'll go to a legit hardware store tomorrow), I figured I'd get down to the bottom of why the horn wasn't working either. I shorted the horn circuit with a screw driver and, sure enough, horn works great. Something in the push button isn't working right. I think I'm missing a cylindrical connecter that fits into a piece of white plastic that sits beneath the lockplate.

1st pic - steering wheel with plastic adapter behind it (missing wire)
2nd pic - plastic adapter. Again, no wire.

Know what that little connector wire looks like? Think I could fab one? Maybe just a skinny screw or bolt with a nut to hold the spring down?

I'll keep you posted about the idle. No stickage in the throttle by the way.

And like the teeth under your CJ's hood. Nice touch.

JUICE

I'LL GET TO THE TORX REMOVAL SOON WITH PICS----YOUR JEEP IS MADE OF THEM

MINE USED TO BE---NOW ALL ARE HEX HEADS--MANY ARE STAINLESS

LOOK AT MY DASH BOLTS...NO MORE TORX

IN 2WD...HUBS UNLOCKED-----AT THE KNUCKLE--THE AXLES ON BOTH SIDES SHOULD TURN FREE....UNLESS THEY ARE LOCKED IN DUE TO A HUB MALFUNCTION

THE MEDIC

I WAS SAVING THIS FOR LATER

WITH THIS "POWER" YOU MAY NOT NEED ME ANYMORE :-(

PLUG IN YOUR INFO---ONLINE REPAIR MANUAL

THESE ARE "SCANS" OF THE ACTUAL FACTORY MANUALS----I HAVE THE '79 AMC JEEP PAPER MANUAL, IT WAS IN MY '79 CJ (LEFT BY MISTAKE, UNDER REAR SEAT) WHEN IT BOUGHT IT AT THE DEALER IN '83


YOU MAY FIND DIFFERENT PICS/ DIAGRAMS IN DIFFERENT YEARS FOR THE HORN

CJ HORN STUFF REMAINED THE SAME '76-'86

BE CAREFUL WHEN YOU READ THE STUFF, INSURE YOU ARE READING "CJ"!!!...J-10 TRUCK/ WAGONEER/ CHEROKEE ARE INCLUDED IN THE MANUALS, AND ARE SORTA INTEGRATED AT EACH SYSTEM

THE MORRIS 4X4 SITE MAY HAVE YOU PARTS---AGAIN, LET'S TALK, BEFORE YOU ORDER OR BUY PARTS FROM ANYWHERE.....YOU MAY CAN GET 'EM CHEAPER!

THE MEDIC

Well, after three trips to the hardware store, I finally found a screw that fit my turn signal lever and my blinkers are working great. So are hazards. And so are headlights. Haven't pulled up the dimmer switch yet, but I will soon. These summer showers really ruin my afternoon repair time. Still having a little trouble making the horn cooperate but I think after I clean the diaphragm it'll be working like a charm.

So the home made gasket idea - the stepper motor has two prongs that stick out and go through the holes in the gasket (see pic, part 32A). I might be able to yank them out or maybe figure out a way to dismantle the motor and remove them. Anyway, I'll pull the motor off as soon as the rain stops.

WHAT ABOUT A HARD PIECE OF PLASTIC OR ALUMINUM WITH HOLES DRILLED IT.....SORTA MAKING A PLATE TO TAKE THE PLACE OF THE MOTOR.

THIS MIGHT JUST BE TEMPORARY, JUST TO SEE IF THE IDLE STILL FLUCTUATES....IF THINGS GO WORSE, PUT THE MOTOR BACK IN. THIS IS JUST AS EXPERIMENTAL TO ME AS IT IS YOU.

I'M STILL A FAN OF THE OLDER CARB......BUT I UNDERSTAND YOUR SITUATION FULLY, KEEPING COST DOWN

YOU SURE ARE AGGRESSIVE WITH THIS THING!!!

I'M HERE WHEN YOU NEED ME, OR WANNA UPDATE US!

ALBUMS?

THE MEDIC

OK here's the update.

Lights work. Blinkers work. Horn works. All I had to do was sand off the diaphragm that you compress to make the electrical contacts and stick a little bolt into the plastic hole in above pictures to finish the connection. Doesn't work perfectly, but works well enough. I think I'll pass the safety inspection now!

So the stepper motor. I removed those two pins that slide into the carb. It was really easy. All you have to do is just slide them off the edges of the motor plate. The mixture is a little messed up though now. I pulled the mixture screws to about 5 turns out to even get a decent idle. The power of the engine while driving was a little low, but it was ok. Was able to get the idle nice and low and NO CHANGE! IT'S A MIRACLE! MY IDLE STAYS THE SAME!

So on my way home after the bar tonight (of course I drove my CJ), the power was great! But the idle was high. It didn't bump around like it used too, but it was high. My dadgum carburetor won't stay the same. I'm going to rebuild the old '79 carb i have on me and see how that works. Also I want to convert the choke to manual instead of electric. Is that an easy job? Do they have the parts for that at Advance?

To do list: change universal joint on rear drive shaft. Change ALL fluids. Replace rusted studs on wheels and get an alignment/balance. If I get all that done by July 4th I can drive her out to the mountains for family time (200 miles away). Ready? GO!

Also I loved the albums Medic. Really enjoyed the one about your Willys rebuild. That was quite a project! Gives me some motivation for mine...even though it's no where near as difficult.

She's running like a charm! Well...like a well aged kind of disgruntled charm, but a charm non the less.

Here's what I think is happening. If I let her sit for 3 or 4 hours before starting her up, she does great right at start. One or two pumps of the pedal while turning the ignition and she fires right up at a nice fast idle. However, it takes a solid 7-10 minutes for the electronic choke to finally pull the plate open. Once it's open, she runs great. Solid idle at 680. Plenty of power throughout all RPMs. Now let's say she's only been sitting for about 40-60 minutes since I last drove her. The choke stays wide open and doesn't do a thing. For the first three or four minutes, she runs terribly! Won't idle. Terrible engine power. Finally, she'll warm up and do great after a couple of minutes though.

The moral of the story, I need a manual choke. Have you done the conversion, medic? Does it cost much money? Other than the choke issue, though, she runs wonderfully. Even got her up to 65 mph without a hitch (that might be slow, but baby steps for us).

Before I switch the choke out though, I need to replace that universal joint on the rear drive shaft. Do you have pictures? Other links? Feel free to drop a line tomorrow afternoon.

Just saw the manual choke installation album. I'll take a look at that tomorrow. Thanks.

READ THE WHOLE POST IF YOU LIKE

"U-JOINTS" IS IN MY 2ND RESPONSE ON JANUARY 29TH 2012

http://www.2carpros.com/questions/2001-ford-explorer-car-shakes

I HAVE OTHER ANSWERS ELSEWHERE, LIKE THIS, I JUST COULDN'T FIND EM FAST

LET ME KNOW IF YOU HAVE QUESTIONS

THE MEDIC

HERE'S ANOTHER

KEEP IN MIND, MY LINKS ARE NOT ALWAYS TO A CJ POST!

SEE JULY 22ND, 2011 IN THIS POST

http://www.2carpros.com/questions/1996-ford-ranger-96-weird-crackling-sound-30mph

I'LL TRY PHONE COMMO LATER IN THE AFTERNOON/ EVENING

THE MEDIC

Never mind. I don't think it's the U-joints. I crawled under my CJ and had a good look around. The U-joints are tight. Rock solid and no play. Also I was able to rotate the front drive shaft freely with hubs unlocked and the transfer case in 2H. Not much resistance either.

Found a few things while I was snooping around down there. Pic one shows the front side of the clutch housing. It's open! Is this supposed to be open like this? I know a clutch is a friction-based mechanism so you probably don't ever want to lube it. But just making sure this is right. Took pics of the bottoms of the rear diff and the tranny (2nd and 3rd pic) . Pretty wet and shiny, like maybe it's been slowly leaking...

Again, I put the transfer case in neutral and cold shifted through the four gears. No whining. Think the bearings are going bad in the differential? Maybe something grinding in the transfer case? What should I do next to investigate the whining?

Also something down there is definitely leaking fuel. It smelled STRONGLY of gas. What should I do to go hunting for a gas leak. I remember reading something about soapy water?

Gonna put in a half day of work. Feel free to call anytime after five.

PS - the pics are upside down for some reason.