Ignition problem, no spark to the distributor cap?

Tiny
GRIZZLY93
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  • 1982 JEEP CJ7
  • 13,500 MILES
I just bought this and I am familiar with the 258 I6 engine in it(my 1988 yj has the same engine) the engine will crank, the fuel pump does work, there is just no spark to the distributor cap. I have already replaced the ignition coil and the ignition control module (had same problem with my cj and this fixed it) but I am still having the same problem.
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Friday, December 2nd, 2011 AT 8:07 PM

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Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
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GOT 'IM RAZ!

I STAY ON HERE DAY AND NIGHT WAITING FOR A CJ....RUN AND GRAB A BITE.......BOO-YOW!....ONE POPS UP!

NEVER CAN BE FIRST.

DO YOU HAVE A VOLTMETER? KNOW HOW TO USE IT?

I CAN TELL YOU HOW TO TEST WHAT RAZ IS TALKING ABOUT

BUT FIRST, LET'S SEE WHAT YOUR VOLTAGE IS--"KEY ON" ON POSITIVE SIDE OF COIL.

I HAVE A HOMEMADE PICTURE

PRESENTLY HELPING WITH THE MOST RECENT CJ 7 IN THE CJ 7 FORUM, OUR THREAD WAS 81 ANSWERS STRONG, LAST I REMEMBER!

LET ME KNOW WHAT YOU GOT---ANSWER ALL QUESTIONS I ASK, IF YOU WILL TRY NOT TO JUMPY AHEAD!

WANT TO GO IN A SYSTEMATIC ORDER TO GET THIS FIGURED OUT EFFICIENTLY.

HERE'S THE TEST PICK FOR COIL VOLTAGE (I HAVE LOTS OF PICS)---AND PICTURES OF MY PRESENT TWO

ALSO CAREFULLY READ THE BOTTOM PORTION OF THIS POST---STARTING AT "FEB 4". PAY CLOSE ATTENTION TO SOLENOID, COIL, FUSIBLE LINKS

https://www.2carpros.com/questions/1986-jeep-cj7-help-needed

I WILL HANG WITH YOU FOR THIS AND AND ANY OTHER CJ ISSUE YOU MIGHT HAVE...KEEP THROWING OUT THE QUESTIONS AND INFORMATION.

YOU WILL BE GOOD TO GO SOON!

THE MEDIC
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Friday, December 2nd, 2011 AT 8:47 PM
Tiny
GRIZZLY93
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Alrighty Medic, lets get started. Just thought you might be humored at the fact that im a youngin (18) and prefer older vehicles. I am actually in a club of IH scouts and am in the process of helping my uncle rebuild his father's 1974 scout II with this same motor. But I personally prefer jeeps to scouts. Lol.

Yes I do have a voltmeter and I am pretty familiar with it, at least when it comes to DC and continuity testing. I paid $300 for this jeep, and would surely love to get it running. My yj has a rear main seal leak that I am just guiding along until I can fix it up. But in the meantime, this is for fun. So time is no issue for me. I posted this right before I went to work, but I will get up early tomorrow morning and do the test you suggested. I have also done a little more research and will definitely make use of my voltmeter and ill report back to you as soon as I Am done.

I have read up on something called a "nutter bypass" that was suggested just as a quick diagnosis, it basically bypasses the ECM by running the wires from the ignition control module to the distributor. From my imagination, I cant see how that would solve my current issue. Do you have any more knowledge of this modification and whether its application would aid in solving my issue at all?
Thank you!

-Reuben
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Saturday, December 3rd, 2011 AT 4:00 AM
Tiny
GRIZZLY93
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I was reviewing your link once again and thought of some other things that might help your diagnosis.

The coil that came with it was completely trashed. And I just recently put in a performance coil in my 88 yj, it originally had the type coil that required the ford harness. So I am using the (hopefully) still good coil from that on the cj. Now where you mentioned about it saying "FOR USE WITH EXTERNAL RESISTOR ONLY" it does not say it, but I am not sure if it would have been labeled or if it would even be that type considering it is out of my 88.

I also forgot to mention that the entire battery cables are really, really in terrible condition. I cant express it enough. But apparently they are still working enough to crank the motor. I plan on getting new ones once I see the engine run for the first time. I would go out and buy them right now, but I am on a budget so I want to be convinced it'll be worth it first.

Also do you have a picture, or diagram of some sort for where the fusible link that is attached to, but has a second "hot" wire for the positive end of the coil harness, for where that fusible link is supposed to go to? On mine it is disconnected and just hanging (as long as I remember correctly) I will take some pictures also to show you what I mean for all that I have mentioned.
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Saturday, December 3rd, 2011 AT 4:28 AM
Tiny
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I'LL READ THE BYPASS THING!---LIKE TO LEARN TOO!

SINCE YOU SAY YOU AND MR. VOLTMETER ARE "ONE"---I'LL GIVE YOU ANOTHER TEST TO PERFORM, WHILE YOU'RE AT IT

MY STUFF MAY BE KINDA CRUDE, BUT BEAR WITH ME!

IF WE FIND THAT THE DISTRIBUTOR PICK-UP IS BAD---I'LL TALK YOU THRU THE EZ WAY TO CHANGE IT OUT (WITHOUT HAVING TO FIND "TDC")

THING IS YOU DO NOT WANT TO SNATCH IT OUT OR EVEN LOOSEN AND TURN IT. UNTIL I TELL YOU HOW (UNLESS YOU ALREADY KNOW ALL OF THIS CRAP!)

1ST THING I WILL EXPLAIN IS THE "FORD TYPE" CONNECTORS TO YOUR MODULE AND DISTRIBUTOR

NO USE-EE SCREWDRIVER ON 'EM---YOU WILL BREAK THE LOCKING TABS OFF!

THIS IS EZ, BUT SOUNDS LIKE IT BREAKS THE LAWS OF LOGIC

GRASP THE WIRES ON EITHER SIDE OF THE BIG CONNECTOR, GRAB 'EM TIGHT, AND JUST PULL HARD (NO JERKING!) THEY WILL COME RIGHT APART.

AS YOU BEGIN CONNECTIONS--YOURS ARE 29 YEARS OLD--AS YOU "DO CONNECTIONS" OF ANY SORT, LET'S BUY A TUBE OF "DIELECTRIC GREASE" AND SMEAR SOME ON ALL OF YOUR CONTACTS, WHEN YOU REASSEMBLE. THIS WILL SAVE FUTURE HEARTACHE!

WHILE YOU ARE AT IT, AND I DO NOT FORGET---LET'S HIT THE DIMMER SWITCH CONNECTOR WITH THE DIELECTRIC GREASE TOO----YOU WILL THANK ME! IF NOT, ONE NIGHT YOUR LIGHTS WILL FLASH OFF AND ON AT REALLY BAD TIMES, THEN GO OUT COMPLETELY, CONNECTOR WILL MELT, CONTACTS WILL SLIDE REARWARD IN THE HOLDER (SO GREASE IT UP NOW!)

DO YOU HAVE TUNE-UP STUFF-LIKE: A TACH/ DWELL METER--A PLAIN JANE TIMING LIGHT (NOTHING FANCY W/ K. NOBS AND DIALS)

I LIKE PICS--SEND ME A FEW--JEEP--UNDER HOOD--IN FOCUS-3 TO 4 FEET OUT

HOW HAS THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT GOT THRU THE LAST 29 YEARS?

MODIFICATIONS?

STUFF PULLED LOOSE, EXTRA WIRING, DANGLING STUFF?

IS THIS RIG GONNA HAVE TO PASS EMISSIONS TESTING?

WHEN DID IT RUN LAST, WERE YOUR THERE, HOW DID IT RUN?

DID YOU READ ABOUT THE COIL AND RESISTANCE WIRE?---IT IS CRITICAL THAT YOU INSTALLED THE COIL THAT SAYS: "FOR USE W/ EXTERNAL RESISTOR"

$300?----LETS SEE A LOT OF PICS!

I HAVE OWNED NOTHING BUT REAL JEEPS SINCE 1981 FOR DAILY DRIVERS---I PICKED UP MOST OF MY KNOWLEDGE FROM MINE, AND HELPING OTHER PEOPLE W/ THEIRS. I PRESENTLY HAVE #6 CJ 5 258 w/ 4BBL HOLLEY 390("MR. JEEP") AND #7 1946 WILLYS L-134 FLATHEAD("WILLY"). BOTH HAVE BEEN REBUILT AND IMPROVED OVER THE LAST 20 YEARS."WILLY" FROM NOTHINGNESS!

OK HERE'S YOUR NEXT TEST--ACTUALLY 2---TEST GROUND AND TEST P/U WITH CONTINUITY

THE MEDIC
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Saturday, December 3rd, 2011 AT 5:11 AM
Tiny
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I AM A VERY SLOW HUNT AND PECKER!

I WAS WRITING YOUR LAST NOVEL WHEN YOU POSTED ABOVE ME

THE COIL. WE WILL KNOW IF YOU HAVE THE RIGHT ONE WHEN YOU SEND BACK YOUR VOLTAGE FROM THE 1ST TEST

I HAVE MANY MORE TRICKS, SO KEEP INFO FLOWING SO I KNOW WHICH WAY TO SET MY AZIMUTH, TO KEEP ON NAVIGATING THRU YOUR PROBLEM

I'M NOT "MR. TECHNICAL"---JUST A RURAL ROUTE COUNTRY BOY---WHOSE JEEPS HAVE NOT BEEN TO A "REAL MECHANIC'S SHOP" SINCE 1987

THINGS HAVE STUMPED ME---I HAVE MANY MANUALS---I KNOW SOME REALLY GOOD RESOURCES--TRICKS--WALMART SHARE ALBUMS W/ USER FRIENDLY MODS W/ EXPLANATIONS FOR SOME OF THE STUFF I HAVE DONE.'87 LAST TIME!--1ST WIFE TOOK IT THERE WHEN I WAS DEPLOYED

FROM '79 ON BACK, I HAVE DONE IT ALL---'80 FWD QUITE A BIT FOR OTHERS, USUALLY MODIFYING THEM BACK IN TIME, AND GETTING RID OF THE PESKY STUFF, SO WE CAN MAKE THE BEST OUT OF A SIMPLIFIED ENGINE-NO INSPECTIONS HERE

ON MY '77 IS MANUAL EVERYTHING THERE ARE 3 VACUUM LINES---PCV--VACUUM ADVANCE FOR THE DISTRIBUTOR--LAST ONE IS FOR THE VACUUM GAUGE ON MY DASH----AIN'T NO MORE NEEDED!

I WILL TRY TO KEEP YOUR COSTS LOW--BUT SOMETHINGS REALLY SHOULD BE REPLACED, AS YOU DO NOT KNOW THE HISTORY, IT'S WEAR, AND HOW MUCH MORE EFFICIENT IT MIGHT BE

LIKE THE DIST.--IF IT IS BAD, REPLACING THE P/U IN IT IS TIME CONSUMING, A PAIN, AND YOU STILL HAVE THE SAME THING!----ON THE OTHER HAND A RE-MANUFACTURED FROM A POPULAR AUTO PARTS STORE IS RIGHT AT $50--NEW GUTS, NEW BEARINGS/ BUSHINGS, AND A LIFETIME WARRANTY (EVERYTHING ON MY '77 IS JUST ABOUT A LIFETIME WARRANTY AND I KEEP A BOOK WITH ALL OF THE ORIGINALS AND OTHER STUFF TOO. IF THIS IS GONNA BE A KEEPER, DO IT RIGHT.

JUST SOME EXAMPLES BELOW

THE MEDIC
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Saturday, December 3rd, 2011 AT 5:41 AM
Tiny
GRIZZLY93
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Alright I do not have a tachometer meter, or a timing light. But if necessary, I can get one.

There is tons of extra wiring, the previous, and original owner used it for plowing snow so he had all the wiring for that done, in a rather sloppy manner actually. I can get around emissions if I put antique plates on it, but that is further on down the road. Owner said it was running eight months ago, he poured gas down the carburetor and it fired up. There is no gas tank, so I went and bought five foot of fuel line and have that attached to the fuel pump and the other end in a gas can just for now to get it running. I was not there when it was running, I have never seen it run. Yet.

I did the test like you said for the positive end of the coil, and it read somewhere around 7.3

The continuity test you suggested, im not sure of where that three prong connector is at that you wanted me to test. You mentioned the module, which has two connectors: one withe four wires, and the other with two. I was unable to locate any with three similar to your picture.
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Saturday, December 3rd, 2011 AT 2:59 PM
Tiny
GRIZZLY93
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Ah. I might have made this easier. I had kind of overlooked this before, but I took off the spark wire from the coil to the distributor, and held the wire over top of the coil while cranking it and there is spark coming from the coil. So the coil I put on there must work! Would not that narrow it down to the distributor pickup that raz had mentioned?
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Saturday, December 3rd, 2011 AT 3:32 PM
Tiny
GRIZZLY93
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Original owner must have cracked the connector for the distributor pickup, he has his own wires connecting them, all are the same color so I have no way of knowing which is positive, negative, and ground. Is there a way of doing a continuity test to try to label the three wires that lead up to the dist. Pickup? Off to work I go, gotta be able to fund my hobby. Oh and yes there was a perfect connection between the black wire on the pickup side and the body of the distributor for the ground continuity test.
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Saturday, December 3rd, 2011 AT 4:07 PM
Tiny
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OK CONNECTOR IS THE ONE ON THE DISTRIBUTOR!--WELL ACTUALLY RIGHT THERE AT THE DIST WHERE THE WIRES GO INTO IT

THE TEST IN THE PIC IS FOR THE PICK-UP COIL..... CONTINUITY FOR 3 WIRES GOING INTO IT----ONE IS TO GROUND---OTHER TWO ARE CONTINUITY TO EACH OTHER (LATTER BEING THE PICK-UP ITSELF)

JEEP LOOKS TO BE DECENT--MAY BE YOUR FRIEND FOREVER, AS MINE ARE

FRED FLINTSTONE FLOORBOARDS NEED SOME ATTENTION!!!!

READ THIS ONE---KICKED MY BUTT FOR DAYS!---NEVER "ASSUME"

https://www.2carpros.com/questions/1990-ford-ranger-cranks-wont-start

NEXT PICS, REMOVE AIR CLEANER--BOTH SIDES OF ENGINE---MAYBE A FOOT OR SO CLOSER (NOT A CLOSE UP, MOST OF THE ENGINE'S SIDES AND CARB) GET THE SOLENOID TOO!

TIMING LIGHT AND METER---PAWN SHOP MAY BE A GOOD PLACE--CALL AROUND.....FANCY IS UNNECESSARY!

THIS IS MY BUDDY'S SET--LESS THAN $40 AT 'HARBOR FREIGHT'--IT'S GOT 5 ITEMS, NICE "GET BY SET"---ALL IN ONE SMALL CASE (MY STUFF IS ANCIENT, BIG AND BULKY, BUT I HAVE TE SAME ITEMS!)

JUST FOR GIGGLES---POUR 2-3 EATIN' SPOON-FULS OF FUEL DOWN THE CARBTRY IT (MAYBE CHOKE IT)WHAT'S IT'S REACTION? DIFFERENT? ALMOST? FOR A SECOND? ABSOLUTELY NOTHING?

'NOTHER GOOD QUESTION---STILL GOT ORIGINAL CHOKE SET-UP? OR IS IT MANUAL?

SEE DIS?--I HAVE 2 (ONE TO INSURE THE OTHER IS NOT BURNED OUT!)---NO YOU CAN'T HAVE MY SPARE! LOL!

VERY GOOD THING TO KEEP WITH YOU---QUICK AND EZ----SOON I WILL CLUE YOU IN ON THE SECRETS OF HAVING IT ALL--WHEN YOU AIN'T AT HOME!

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/OEM-In-line-ignition-spark-tester/_/N-268s?counter=1&filterByKeyWord=SPARK+TESTER&fromString=search&itemIdentifier=900800_0_0_

SENDING YOU A MESSAGE--- HOME--CLICK YOUR NAME--LOOK LEFT FOR MESSAGE CENTER

YOUR TURN

THE MEDIC
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Saturday, December 3rd, 2011 AT 4:41 PM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
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ALL OF THIS IGN CONNECTOR STUFF CAN BE FOUND IN 70s-80s FORD VEHICLES AT SALVAGE YARD---CAN BE BUTT-SPLICED IN

MY BIG!---COLORED DIAGRAM I MADE SPECIAL FOR ME? SEE PICTURE

THE MEDIC
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Saturday, December 3rd, 2011 AT 5:00 PM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
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IN THE "3 WIRE CONNECTOR TEST"----WIRE COLORS ARE LABELED WHERE I POINTED TO PRONGS IN PICS

YOU CAN TEST JUST BY USING THEM (WIRE COLOR)---THIS SHOULD LET US KNOW IF ITS THE DISTRIBUTOR OR NOT

THE MEDIC
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Saturday, December 3rd, 2011 AT 5:10 PM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
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HERE'S A MODIFIED PIECE OF A DIAGRAM

THE MEDIC
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Saturday, December 3rd, 2011 AT 8:05 PM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
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CAN YOU UNDERSTAND ALL I HAVE GIVEN YOU?

SOMETIMES I GET CARRIED AWAY!

SLOW ME DOWN OR STOP ME IF YOU GET LOST, DON'T WANT YOU MESSIN' YOUR JEEP UP!

I TRY TO DO ALL I CAN ON 2CAR SO THAT OTHERS WHO MIGHT READ THIS MAY BENEFIT ALSO, AS YOU SEE, I GO BACK AND STEAL FROM OTHER POSTS, TO KEEP THE HUNTING AND PECKING TO A MINIMUM.

THE MEDIC
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Saturday, December 3rd, 2011 AT 8:48 PM
Tiny
GRIZZLY93
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Alright I got it running. Somewhat. The carb needs work it's not letting fuel
Into it. The jeep would run as long as I kept spraying ether into it. It fires right up when
I bypass the starter solenoid which is easiest when I'm already under the hood. But I don't get anything when I turn the key. So that's the next issue to resolve along with the carb. I just so happen to have 2 more of those same carburetors so I'll mess around with that. Maybe give the one on it a few smacks with a hammer in case the floats are stuck.
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Tuesday, December 6th, 2011 AT 2:59 AM
Tiny
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HERE'S THE BEST THING I COULD FIND SO FAR

I RECOMMEND A 1979 CARB---KINDA ONE OF THE LAST "SIMPLE" BBDs...IT HAS NO STEPPER MOTOR....I KEPT 2, EVEN THOUGH I HAVE A 4 BARREL ON MINE

I REALLY DO NOT THINK YOU CAN GO WRONG WITH THIS

I'VE DONE YOUR HOMEWORK--IF YOU REBUILD AND SOMETHING IS WRONG---AIN'T NO WARRANTY!!!!...AND THE HASSLE...CLEANER...KIT.....MAYBE NO EXPERIENCE

MOST LIKELY HAS A WARRANTY

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_x_5121140-P_x_x?cm_mmc=CSE-_-Shopzilla-_-VALUE3-_-VALUE4&srccode=cii_10043468&cpncode=22-187227193-2#utm_source=cse&utm_medium=shopzilla&utm_campaign=value3&utm_content=value4

I LOOKED AROUND A LOT---THEY GET EXPENSIVE

WHEN YOU GET THE FIRST ONE---KEEP YOUR OLD CARB---YOU MAY NEED PARTS/ BRACKETS ETC

LATER YOU CAN USE IT FOR A CORE IF YOU HAVE TO GO W/ A MORE EXPENSVE ONE W/ A BIGGER CHARGE.......NEVER GIVE UP ANY KIND OF CORE, UNTIL YOU ARE GOOD TO GO W/ YOUR NEW PART!

WHATCHU THINK?

JUST 'MEMBER, THIS IS BEST VEHICLE YOU EVER OWNED...GOTTA TAKE CARE OF HIM!

THE MEDIC
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Tuesday, December 6th, 2011 AT 6:38 AM
Tiny
GRIZZLY93
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Alright thanks, and do you have any ideas for the key issue? Again, the jeep will crank and start(with starting fluid) when I jump the starter solenoid, but it doesnt do anything when I turn the key.
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Wednesday, December 7th, 2011 AT 1:46 PM
Tiny
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LOOK AT JULY 1, "MY" 4TH ANSWER----ON THIS POST

https://www.2carpros.com/questions/1989-ford-bronco-ignition-issues

YOU WILL NOT BE HAPPY--THIS IS A JOB FOR A CHINESE MIDGET--A MIRROR AND STRONG LIGHT MAY SHOW YOU WHAT YOU NEED TO DO---BUT IT'S GONNA ALL BE BY "FEEL" WHEN YOU START MESSING WITH IT

DID YOU RECEIVE THE 1979 WIRE DIAGRAM?

THE COLORS AND POSITIONS OF THE WIRES AT THE IGNITION SWITCH SHOULD BE THE SAME---IF YOU WANT ME TO---I CAN MAYBE SEGREGATE OUT THAT PORTION AND LABEL WHAT VALUES YOU SHOULD BE GETTIN' WITH YOUR KEY IN DIFFERENT POSITIONSTHIS CAN BE DONE BY USING A TEST LIGHT OR VOLTMETER----AND STABBING STRAIGHT PINS INTO THE WIRES TO DO THE TESTINGLET ME KNOW

IF YOU WANNA JUST GIVE HIM A QUICK TEST---AND BUYING ANOTHER IGN SWITCH AIN'T AN ISSUE (OR YOU THINK IT COULD BE RETURNED)

UNSNAP THE WIRES OFF OF THE OLD SWITCH (LEAVE IN PLACE) SNAP THEM ONTO THE NEW SWITCH (DANGLING FREE, AROUND YOUR PEDALS)

INSURE YOU ARE IN NEUTRAL, AND MOVE SWITCH POSITIONS USING A SMALL SCREWDRIVER OR OTHER ---INSERTED INTO THE SWITCH'S "ROD" HOLE

........REMEMBER "START" IS SPRING LOADED AND WILL BE SORTA HARD TO ACTUATE INTO THAT POSITION......YOU'LL GET THE HANG OF IT!

ARE MY ANSWERS.......UNDERSTANDABLE?.......ARE THEY AIDING YOU?

YOU DO REALIZE....YOU ARE MOST LIKELY GONNA HAVE TO TAKE ME TO "KRYSTAL'S" AT LEAST TWO TIMES????........EACH TRIP 12 CHEESE KRYSTALS, MAYO, ONION, (AND OF COURSE...CHEESE!)JUST NO MUSTURD!!!!

I'M DEFINITELY HAVING A HANKERING FOR SOME!

THE PICS ARE SO NICE TO SEE---I SELDOM GET TO SEE WHAT I AM WORKING ON----KEEP 'EM COMING!

DID YOU RECEIVE THE WALMART ALBUMS?......I WILL SEND OTHERS

YOUR TURN

THE MEDIC

PIC OF MY 1ST 1977 CJ 5 W/ 304 TAKEN IN '83, I SORTA MIMICKED THE PAINT SCHEME ONTO MY PRESENT 6TH CJ 5 (IT TOO IS A 1977, BUT W/ 258)
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Wednesday, December 7th, 2011 AT 5:57 PM
Tiny
GRIZZLY93
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Yes I got the wiring diagram and the albums. Very nice lookin. As for the ignition, im not too concerned with it being perfect, I might just wire a push button to the solenoid and mount it somewhere inside.

Do you know what that module looking piece is thats next to the starter solenoid? At first glance I thought it was the ICM, but thats over on the other side.
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Wednesday, December 7th, 2011 AT 6:27 PM
Tiny
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WHAT'S THE "BLACK WAD" TO THE RIGHT OF IT?

HOW MANY WIRE GO IN/ OUT?

CAN YOU MAYBE TRACK A FEW OF IT'S WIRES TO THEIR DESTINATION----REPORT BACK W/ COLOR AND COLOR OF "TRACER STRIPE" ON IT WHERE THE WIRES GO

I HAVE MANY MANUALS NEED NUMBERS AND COLORS TO "BACKTRACK"

THE MEDIC
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Wednesday, December 7th, 2011 AT 7:23 PM
Tiny
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WILL IT RUN IF YOU UNPLUG IT?

STILL LOOKING FOR WHAT IT IS--IS THIS A CALIFORNIA JEEP?

I FEEL THAT IT IS SOMETHING TO DO W/ THE COMPUTER---COMPUTERS JUST HAD BEEN PUT IN THOSE YEARS---THE CARB W/ THE STEPPER MOTOR ON THE REAR IS ABOUT ALL THAT GOT CONTROLLED BY THE COMPUTER----ABANDONING AND CAPPING OFF STUFF, AND CHANGING TO A '79 CARTER BBD CARB (NO STEPPER) WILL HAVE YOU RUNNING GREAT!

THE MEDIC
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Thursday, December 8th, 2011 AT 2:20 AM

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