1982 Jeep CJ7 Repair Question
Ignition problem, no spark to the distributor cap?
the engine will crank, the fuel pump does work, there is just no spark to the distributor cap. i have already replaced the ignition coil and the ignition control module (had same problem with my yj and this fixed it) but ii am still having the same problem.
Check and test the distributor magnetic pick-up coil-
Do you have spark coming out of the coil while being cranked and grounded
GOT 'IM RAZ!
I STAY ON HERE DAY AND NIGHT WAITING FOR A CJ....RUN AND GRAB A BITE.......BOO-YOW!....ONE POPS UP!
NEVER CAN BE 1ST
DO YOU HAVE A VOLTMETER? KNOW HOW TO USE IT?
I CAN TELL YOU HOW TO TEST WHAT RAZ IS TALKING ABOUT
BUT 1ST, LET'S SEE WHAT YOUR VOLTAGE IS--"KEY ON" ON POSITIVE SIDE OF COIL.
I HAVE A HOMEMADE PIC
PRESENTLY HELPING WITH THE MOST RECENT CJ 7 IN THE CJ 7 FORUM, OUR THREAD WAS 81 ANSWERS STRONG, LAST I REMEMBER!
LET ME KNOW WHAT YOU GOT---ANSWER ALL QUESTIONS I ASK, IF YOU WILL.......TRY NOT TO JUMPY AHEAD!
WANT TO GO IN A SYSTEMATIC ORDER TO GET THIS FIGURED OUT EFFICIENTLY.
HERE'S THE TEST PICK FOR COIL VOLTAGE (I HAVE LOTS OF PICS)---AND PICS OF MY PRESENT TWO
ALSO CAREFULLY READ THE BOTTOM PORTION OF THIS POST---STARTING AT "FEB 4". PAY CLOSE ATTENTION TO SOLENOID, COIL, FUSIBLE LINKS
I'LL HANG W/ YOU FOR THIS AND AND ANY OTHER CJ ISSUE YOU MIGHT HAVE......KEEP THROWING OUT THE QUESTIONS AND INFO
YOU WILL BE GOOD TO GO SOON!
Take it over soldier-Merry Christmas and a Happy New 2012
Alrighty Medic, lets get started. Just thought you might be humored at the fact that im a youngin (18) and prefer older vehicles. I am actually in a club of IH scouts and am in the process of helping my uncle rebuild his fathers 1974 scout II with this same motor. But i personally prefer jeeps to scouts. lol.
Yes i do have a voltmeter and im pretty familiar with it, at least when it comes to DC and continuity testing. I paid $300 for this jeep, and would surely love to get it running. My yj has a rear main seal leak that im just guiding along until i can fix 'er up. but in the meantime, this is for fun. so time is no issue for me. I posted this right before i went to work, but i will get up early tomorrow morning and do the test you suggested. Ive also done a little more research and will definately make use of my voltmeter and ill report back to you as soon as im done.
I have read up on something called a "nutter bypass" that was suggested just as a quick diagnosis, it basically bypasses the ECM by running the wires from the ignition control module to the diostributor. from my imagination, i cant see how that would solve my current issue. do you have any more knowledge of this modification and whether its application would aid in solving my issue at all?
i was reviewing your link once again and thought of some other things that might help your diagnosis.
the coil that came with it was completely trashed. and i just recently put in a performance coil in my 88 yj, it originally had the type coil that required the ford harness. so i am using the (hopefully) still good coil from that on the cj. now where you mentioned about it saying "FOR USE WITH EXTERNAL RESISTOR ONLY" it doesnt say it, but im not sure if it would have been labeled or if it would even be that type considering it is out of my 88.
i also forgot to mention that the entire battery cables are really, REALLLLLYYYYYY in terrible condition. I cant express it enough. but apparantly they are still working enough to crank the motor. I plan on getting new ones once i see the engine run for the first time. I would go out and buy them right now, but im on a budget so i want to be convinced it'll be worth it first.
also do you have a picture, or diagram of some sort for where the fusible link that is attached to, but has a second "hot" wire for the pos end of the coil harness, for where that fusible link is supposed to go to? on mine it is disconnected and just hanging (as long as i remember correctly) i will take some pictures also to show you what i mean for all that i have mentioned.
I'LL READ THE BYPASS THING!---LIKE TO LEARN TOO!
SINCE YOU SAY YOU AND MR. VOLTMETER ARE "ONE"---I'LL GIVE YOU ANOTHER TEST TO PERFORM, WHILE YOU'RE AT IT
MY STUFF MAY BE KINDA CRUDE, BUT BEAR WITH ME!
IF WE FIND THAT THE DISTRIBUTOR PICK-UP IS BAD---I'LL TALK YOU THRU THE EZ WAY TO CHANGE IT OUT (WITHOUT HAVING TO FIND "TDC")
THING IS YOU DO NOT WANT TO SNATCH IT OUT OR EVEN LOOSEN AND TURN IT.......UNTIL I TELL YOU HOW (UNLESS YOU ALREADY KNOW ALL OF THIS CRAP!)
1ST THING I WILL EXPLAIN IS THE "FORD TYPE" CONNECTORS TO YOUR MODULE AND DISTRIBUTOR
NO USE-EE SCREWDRIVER ON 'EM---YOU WILL BREAK THE LOCKING TABS OFF!
THIS IS EZ, BUT SOUNDS LIKE IT BREAKS THE LAWS OF LOGIC
GRASP THE WIRES ON EITHER SIDE OF THE BIG CONNECTOR, GRAB 'EM TIGHT, AND JUST PULL HARD (NO J.ERKING!) THEY WILL COME RIGHT APART.
AS YOU BEGIN CONNECTIONS--YOURS ARE 29 YEARS OLD--AS YOU "DO CONNECTIONS" OF ANY SORT, LET'S BUY A TUBE OF "DIELECTRIC GREASE" AND SMEAR SOME ON ALL OF YOUR CONTACTS, WHEN YOU REASSEMBLE.....THIS WILL SAVE FUTURE HEARTACHE!
WHILE YOU ARE AT IT, AND I DO NOT FORGET---LET'S HIT THE DIMMER SWITCH CONNECTOR WITH THE DIELECTRIC GREASE TOO----YOU WILL THANK ME! IF NOT, ONE NIGHT YOUR LIGHTS WILL FLASH OFF AND ON AT REALLY BAD TIMES, THEN GO OUT COMPLETELY, CONNECTOR WILL MELT, CONTACTS WILL SLIDE REARWARD IN THE HOLDER (SO GREASE IT UP NOW!)
DO YOU HAVE TUNE-UP STUFF-LIKE: A TACH/ DWELL METER--A PLAIN JANE TIMING LIGHT (NOTHING FANCY W/ K.NOBS AND DIALS)
I LIKE PICS--SEND ME A FEW--JEEP--UNDER HOOD--IN FOCUS-3 TO 4 FEET OUT
HOW HAS THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT GOT THRU THE LAST 29 YEARS?
STUFF PULLED LOOSE, EXTRA WIRING, DANGLING STUFF?
IS THIS RIG GONNA HAVE TO PASS EMISSIONS TESTING?
WHEN DID IT RUN LAST, WERE YOUR THERE, HOW DID IT RUN?
DID YOU READ ABOUT THE COIL AND RESISTANCE WIRE?---IT IS CRITICAL THAT YOU INSTALLED THE COIL THAT SAYS: "FOR USE W/ EXTERNAL RESISTOR"
$300 ??????----LETS SEE A LOT OF PICS!
I HAVE OWNED NOTHING BUT REAL JEEPS SINCE 1981 FOR DAILY DRIVERS---I PICKED UP MOST OF MY KNOWLEDGE FROM MINE, AND HELPING OTHER PEOPLE W/ THEIRS. I PRESENTLY HAVE #6 CJ 5 258 w/ 4BBL HOLLEY 390("MR. JEEP") AND #7 1946 WILLYS L-134 FLATHEAD("WILLY"). BOTH HAVE BEEN REBUILT AND IMPROVED OVER THE LAST 20 YEARS...."WILLY" FROM NOTHINGNESS!
OK HERE'S YOUR NEXT TEST--ACTUALLY 2---TEST GROUND AND TEST P/U WITH CONTINUITY
I AM A VERY SLOW HUNT AND PECKER!
I WAS WRITING YOUR LAST NOVEL WHEN YOU POSTED ABOVE ME
THE COIL..........WE WILL KNOW IF YOU HAVE THE RIGHT ONE WHEN YOU SEND BACK YOUR VOLTAGE FROM THE 1ST TEST
I HAVE MANY MORE TRICKS, SO KEEP INFO FLOWING SO I KNOW WHICH WAY TO SET MY AZIMUTH, TO KEEP ON NAVIGATING THRU YOUR PROBLEM
I'M NOT "MR. TECHNICAL"---JUST A RURAL ROUTE COUNTRY BOY---WHOSE JEEPS HAVE NOT BEEN TO A "REAL MECHANIC'S SHOP" SINCE 1987
THINGS HAVE STUMPED ME---I HAVE MANY MANUALS---I KNOW SOME REALLY GOOD RESOURCES--TRICKS--WALMART SHARE ALBUMS W/ USER FRIENDLY MODS W/ EXPLANATIONS FOR SOME OF THE STUFF I HAVE DONE.......'87 LAST TIME!!!--1ST WIFE TOOK IT THERE WHEN I WAS DEPLOYED
FROM '79 ON BACK, I HAVE DONE IT ALL---'80 FWD QUITE A BIT FOR OTHERS, USUALLY MODIFYING THEM BACK IN TIME, AND GETTING RID OF THE PESKY STUFF, SO WE CAN MAKE THE BEST OUT OF A SIMPLIFIED ENGINE-NO INSPECTIONS HERE
ON MY '77 IS MANUAL EVERYTHING THERE ARE 3 VACUUM LINES---PCV--VACUUM ADVANCE FOR THE DISTRIBUTOR--LAST ONE IS FOR THE VACUUM GAUGE ON MY DASH----AIN'T NO MORE NEEDED!
I WILL TRY TO KEEP YOUR COSTS LOW--BUT SOMETHINGS REALLY SHOULD BE REPLACED, AS YOU DO NOT KNOW THE HISTORY, IT'S WEAR, AND HOW MUCH MORE EFFICIENT IT MIGHT BE
LIKE THE DIST.--IF IT IS BAD, REPLACING THE P/U IN IT IS TIME CONSUMING, A PAIN, AND YOU STILL HAVE THE SAME THING!----ON THE OTHER HAND A RE-MANUFACTURED FROM A POPULAR AUTO PARTS STORE IS RIGHT AT $50--NEW GUTS, NEW BEARINGS/ BUSHINGS, AND A LIFETIME WARRANTY (EVERYTHING ON MY '77 IS JUST ABOUT A LIFETIME WARRANTY AND I KEEP A BOOK WITH ALL OF THE ORIGINALS AND OTHER STUFF TOO....IF THIS IS GONNA BE A KEEPER, DO IT RIGHT.
JUST SOME EXAMPLES BELOW
Alright i do not have a tach meter, or a timing light. But if necessary, i can get one.
there is tons of extra wiring, the previous, and original owner used it for plowing snow so he had all the wiring for that done, in a rather sloppy manner actually. i can get around emissions if i put antique plates on it, but thats further on down the road. owner said it was running 8 months ago, he poured gas down the carb and it fired up. there is no gas tank, so i went and bought 5 foot of fuel line and have that attached to the fuel pump and the other end in a gas can just for now to get it running. i was not there when it was running, i have never seen it run...yet.
i did the test like you said for the positive end of the coil, and it read somewhere around 7.3
The continuity test you suggested, im not sure of where that 3 prong connector is at that you wanted me to test. you mentioned the module, which has 2 connectors: one withe 4 wires, and the other with 2. i was unable to locate any with 3 similar to your picture.
aaaaaahhhhhhhh. i might have made this easier. i had kind of overlooked this before, but i took off the spark wire from the coil to the distributor, and held the wire over top of the coil while cranking it and there is spark coming from the coil. So the coil i put on there must work?!?! wouldnt that narrow it down to the distributor pickup that raz had mentioned?