Ignition problem, no spark to the distributor cap?

Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • MEMBER
OK--GOT SOME PICS OF A DANA 300----HARD TO SHIFT?

THIS IS A FULL RESTORATION I HAVE RUN ACROSS RECENTLY

THE MEDIC
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Tuesday, June 12th, 2012 AT 8:14 PM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
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OK, FORGOT MY ARROWS IN THE LAST PIC!

THE MEDIC
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Tuesday, June 12th, 2012 AT 8:18 PM
Tiny
GRIZZLY93
  • MEMBER
Well medic, long time no talk. Ive been pretty busy with working and I was on vacation for a week there too. But I finally solved the issue. It had nothing to do with the carb. I was talking to my dad about it and he suggested the fuel pump. I didnt see how that would do it, because ive only heard of them being a yea or no thing. Not only work halfway. But I trust him, and gave it a shot. Put the new one on and it purred like a kitten. The carb is a little off now from trying to mess with it before, but now it will idle so I can accurately tune it.

It is slightly out of action right now. I remembered about my steering box leak so I had to turn it off, the pump was completely dry. Im halfway into removing the steering box to replace the input shaft seal. Than I can tune the carb and time it and it should go where I want it to under its own power. Its so close I can taste it.

My job is killing me, I got no time to work on it other than an hour or two before work. Its a work in progress!
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Thursday, July 12th, 2012 AT 2:44 AM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • MEMBER
IT'S ABOUT TIME!

I RECKON IN ALL THE TIME I'VE BEEN MESSING WITH CJs---I'VE YET TO SEE A "PARTIAL" FAILURE OF A FUEL PUMP

EITHER IT WORKS OR IT DON'T, HAS BEEN MY EXPERIENCE

I HAVE SUSPECTED IT AT TIMES AND EVEN DONE THE FACTORY MANUAL TESTING. PRESSURE AND VOLUME TESTS

SORRY IT DIDN'T EVEN CROSS MY MIND---I DO KEEP A SPARE FUEL PUMP WITH ME, ALONG WITH A COIL, IGNITION MODULE, AND THE LAST LINK OF MY CLUTCH'S BELL CRANK SYSTEM (SEE PIC)

REMEMBER, I RE-VAMPED THE REST OF IT USING SEALED BEARINGS AND SPHERICAL PLANE BEARINGS, THE ROD TO THE CLUTCH ARM IS MY WEAKEST LINK---MY MODIFICATION W/ THE BEARINGS SHOULD LAST 100 YEARS!

INSURE YOU RESEARCH YOUR STEERING AT THE K.B.---MY GEAR IS MANUAL, I REPLACED IT IN JANUARY 2010 W/ A NEW OEM SAGINAW THAT I FOUND ON THE NET (I HAD PUT ON AN OMIX-ADA CHEAPO BEFORE, IT DID NOT LAST VERY LONG

NEED YOU TO MAIL ME YOUR COMMO # AGAIN, I HAVE LOST IT.

KEEP ME POSTED ON THAT CARB TUNING SCHEDULE, MAYBE I CAN SIT IN ON IT.

THE MEDIC
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Thursday, July 12th, 2012 AT 3:55 AM
Tiny
GRIZZLY93
  • MEMBER
Well I dove into the steering box leak and got that all taken care of this weekend. I started it during the week, I would mess with it a bit each night after work since the sun is now still out when I get off for a bit. It had me confused at first, and intimidaded with making sure I put it back on right. Turned out to not be a problem at all. I snapped a few pictures along the way. Not as many as usual, this thing was super greasy from leaking so bad.

Also finally got around to changing the front hub assembly in my YJ. That was simple and done in an hour.

After I put the steering box back on I fired it up to mess with it some. Had it running for about 10 minutes and than it stalled. The carb still needs to be tuned, maybe ill get that done thursday on my day off.

The last few pictures are from the 4wheeling trip in may, my baby being raped by the state inspection, and also this awesome looking cj5 I found one day. For your viewing pleasure.
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Tuesday, July 17th, 2012 AT 2:28 AM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • MEMBER
LIKE THEM SOCKS!

. AND THAT CORAL SNAKE COILED UP AND HOLDING YOUR CALIPER UP

MAYBE YOU NEED TO TAKE THOSE OTHER PICS TO "MICROSOFT PAINT" THEN "SAVE AS" JPEG SO YOU CAN POST THEM.I'D LIKE TO SEE THE EMISSIONS THING. THEY DON'T DO IT HERE

YOU SORTA LEFT THE TIP END OF YOUR STEERING BAR HOOKED TO YOUR GEAR.I KNOW IT WAS A PAIN GETTING THE "SQUARES" AND THEIR "WAVY WASHERS" BACK IN. NOT TO MENTION GETTING THE BOOT AND WIRE RETAINER BACK IN. I HOPE YOU FIGURED OUT PUTTING IT BACK ON THE STEERING ROD 1ST. THEN INSTALLING THE GEAR WAS THE EZist THING TO DO

WE SORTA DISCUSSED THIS ONE TIME BEFORE, BUT WITHOUT HANDS ON, IT'S HARD TO CONCEIVE

I'M OFF THURS AND FRI----EMAIL ME, I'VE LOST YOUR COMMO INFO

THE MEDIC
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Tuesday, July 17th, 2012 AT 2:56 AM
Tiny
GRIZZLY93
  • MEMBER
Yeah the other pictures dont want to load. Maybe if I can get my email to work, ill send them that way. I actually didnt have that hard of a time getting the collar back on the steering rod. I re-installed it the way you see it. I hammered the collar all the way down the input shaft, tightened the bolt that clamps that tight. Than just slid it back over the "squares." Even the boot an wire retainer wasnt too hard. It all fell into place, like it wanted to get back on there and be ran.
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Tuesday, July 17th, 2012 AT 3:15 AM
Tiny
GRIZZLY93
  • MEMBER
It seems to work better if I only do a few pictures at a time.
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Tuesday, July 17th, 2012 AT 3:19 AM
Tiny
GRIZZLY93
  • MEMBER
Well I tried to tune the carb today. But the damn thing wont idle long enough to do it. This carb is pretty much just an expensive anchor. I cant stand these carbs, they are nothing but junkers this is so frustrating. I have tried everything I know, and everything you've suggested with no luck.
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Friday, July 20th, 2012 AT 1:51 AM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • MEMBER
IT'LL BE OK!

GIMME A HOLLAR!

DON'T DESTROY NOTHING

I'LL BE UP TILL 24:00 THIS EVENING

THE MEDIC
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Friday, July 20th, 2012 AT 2:27 AM
Tiny
GRIZZLY93
  • MEMBER
What happened man? No call? Haha. Its alright sir. I got 'er going. Timed and carb is tuned right in at 700 rpm on warm idle. I even turned it down for the hell of it and had it purring along at 500 rpm's. Just gotta wait till tomorrow morning to see how it starts cold. Ive got a slight noise that my uncle and dad say sounds like the water pump. So that might be next. Good thing thats cheap, and im kinda glad its a pretty deep project. I enjoy just taking it apart and working on it. Must be a jeep thing.

But all is well for now, its got a slight tap but it seems to go away after I rev it up a time or two. Maybe with circulating the oil? My oil pressure is only at 20? Maybe thats what is causing the tap? Im not sure, what do you think?

Words cant express how happy I am to be driving this thing around again, especially since ive been paying insurance on it. Haha!
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Wednesday, July 25th, 2012 AT 2:14 AM
Tiny
GRIZZLY93
  • MEMBER
Well, I went to take her out the other night and it would NOT keep an idle. No matter what I did. So I took a second look at it, and I dont think I tightened the distributor down from adjusting it. So I retimed it, and now the carb wont let it idle any lower than about 1000 RPM. I can tell that its trying to, but once it goes below the 1000 it falls out and stalls. From what I was told, youre supposed to time it with the vacuum advance off, is that correct? That might make the difference? Im just thinking of ideas at this point. I did the carb cleaner trick to check for vacuum leaks and couldnt find anywhere that made it react.

The idle is really bouncy, even at the 1000 it bounces from 900-1300 up and down. It doesnt stay consistant at all.

Also went over the ignition system again and found an issue. You'll see what I mean. Cleaned them up and put em back in. Was only that 1 that was like that.
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Monday, July 30th, 2012 AT 10:10 PM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • MEMBER
WE ARE SET UP LIKE A 1979---I THINK YOU'D BE BETTER OFF USING "STOCK" SPARK PLUGS (CHAMPION N-13L OR EQUIVALENT) GAP IS.035 (THIRTY-FIVE THOUSANDTHS OF AN INCH)

IF YOU ARE EVER GIVEN A PLUG GAP "CHOICE", SUCH AS.035-.040----ALWAYS GO WITH THE SMALLER GAP (.035) THEORETICALLY THE GAP "WEARS" OR "GROWS" EVERY SO MANY THOUSAND MILES. GAPPING SMALL, WILL INSURE THAT THE CORRECT GAP DOES NOT GROW "TOO BIG" OVER TIME, AND YOUR SPARK PLUG GAP WILL REMAIN WITHIN SPECS

I ALSO RECOMMEND THAT YOU USE A 1979 PCV VALVE, AND TUNE YOUR CARB ---AFTER--- IT IS INSTALLED (IT S. UCKS IN LESS AIR THAN THE ONE FOR YOUR YEAR. THIS WOULD AFFECT YOUR AIR/ FUEL RATIO, MORE AT IDLE)

BELOW PICS SHOULD EXPLAIN TIMING (I HOPE). LET ME KNOW IF YOU ARE CONFUSED

THE MEDIC
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Tuesday, July 31st, 2012 AT 4:19 AM

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