Engine no start

Been thinking about this a lot

It has to be either the cam gear is off

Or the distributor is off

If we have correct parts

And if you did not accidentally run past TDC after you heard the your "SPIT". How far did you turn the crank to line up on TDC, when it spit?

Can you run the Harmonic balancer bolt back in and RE-VERIFY the SPIT (compression stroke)using a Breaker Bar (pull handle ) to turn the crank over, one to two revolutions, "thumb" in the hole. After the spit or "HISS", turn your CRANK GEAR MARK BACK TO ITS PRESENT POSITION?

Is the cam gear lined up right this time?

If it is, as in my pic, then either the Dist gear slipped (roll pin)/ the GEAR made onto the cam is muffed/ Or somehow the Distributor was removed and installed wrong.

Or if you wind up in the same position with the marks as in your pic, The CAM PIN--IS NO LONGER INDEXING THE CAM GEAR (the gear rotated and the cam did not.

I'm gonna get a Pal to look this over, maybe he sees something that I did not!

Just want to get you fixed soon and correctly!

The Medic

Roger,

How about another 1/2 Revolution by hand (not the starter)

If you messed up the 1st time---right now the piston is at the bottom---and compression is starting!

The important thing right now is Valve Timing (we can put the distributor any where we want to later, its EZ!)

Do the "BY HAND" Revolutions, with THUMB OR FINGER in #1 hole (Closest to radiator). Rotate C-W till you get the SPIT or a Hiss around your finger

When you get this (can leave finger in place to continue to "FEEL COMPRESSION"). Compression ceases as you approach TDC

Continue to rotate engine until THE CRANKSHAFT GEAR MARK GETS back to the position it is in your PIC (this position is the piston at full height or TDC) STOP WHEN ITS THERE. DO NOT PASS IT AND COME BACK AROUND!

NOW WHERE IS THE CAM GEAR MARK?

Won't hurt to spin it this time, just to verify you did not pass it this last time

I went to Autozone and Advance Auto Online'79 and '82 are not the same timing set.

HOWEVER!

Haynes '49-'86 JEEP CJ and Chilton's CJ5, 6, 7, Scrambler, Wrangler '71-'90. Along with my '79 AMC JEEP SERVICE MANUAL shows the 6 cylinders and the 8 cylinders. ALL LINE UP LIKE MY PIC!

I would definitely rotate and reverify the compression stroke and TDC

I have on other thing I'm gonna check for you, if I am able to

I want to know if you have a 2 bbl BBD CARB or a 1 bbl YF carb

I know for a fact that the 1bbl used a different cam than a 2bbl

Maybe they stuck your '77 Cam in your '82 engine, I will attempt to see if the lobes are opposite on it.I will also see if '77 1bbl timing set is the same as '79, THAT BY ITSELF WOULD LET ME KNOW IF CAM FRONT AND LOBES ARE IN THE SAME POSITION

This is a BBD----1st is a '79---second is a '83 BBD, I do not have a YF pic

Tell me what you have and results with Compression and TDC.

Send me a message with your Email, I will send you scanned stuff of mine there. Tell me what you want to see in message.

As far as the pin goes, until you pull the gears you will not know for sure if its sheared or not. The pin may be stuck in the hole and no longer attached to the cam!

The Medic

Sorry, I meant a full crank revolution, at the beginning (above).

My Pap's in really bad shape, bringing him home, (his house) tomorrow from the nursing home, 2 agent orange cancers got him from 'Nam. He wants to come home, its really escalating now.

That's sorta why I didn't answer sooner.

The Medic

Just checked a '77 timing set---its the same part # as a '79 at "Zone" and "Advance"

Therefore I conclude the Cams have the same index as each other, and.

Gear Marks should be as in my pic, to be at TDC---gotta be either the cam pin sheared, you are not on TDC, or this is some WILD AFTER-MARKET THING. Distributor has no bearing on whether the cam and crank are synchronized!

Waitin' on your eyes and hands

Please feel no embarrassment if you didn't do some step right, I screw up too! I just want to hear that you are straightened out, I do not get paid for each answer like the guys who "Work" here.

I sorta feel like a Volunteer Doctor, I just want to hear you are riding around in the Most Perfect Vehicle in the world

This pic is my '79 AMC JEEP MANUAL, It was left in my '79 CJ 5 when I bought it in 1984.I did not take care of it at 1st, now I treat it like a sacred scroll. It really shows everything in detail! Even good for other nearby years.

The Medic

I am researching the "Correct Hole"....Maybe the last feller pulled the pin OR it just fell out...Then was just stuck back in, any ole way!

Your system now (No HEI) is so much simpler....to improve on it, would be The Motorcraft System, it too would be Simple and more Durable than what you have and part availability would be EZ in the future.

As far as power, mileage, or again simplicity with fuel....Weber or Holley Carb properly tuned is the economical answer

I have a feeling that someone MADE THIS (cam deal) WORK CORRECTLY (the backwards way), and only they knew the SECRETS of what was done.

I will find the REAL PIN POSITION, so far it looks like we might have to pull the fuel pump or the valve cover, to either see the position of the ECCENTRIC lobe position (fuel pump lobe) or the rocker arm heights(1st lobe on the cam) IN COMPARISON TO THE LOCATION OF THE PINS....I'm still looking, here's my 1st try, not a good pic.....sorta see what I mean about the FUEL PUMP LOBE (1st on the cam)....I need an Oblique or end view....got more places to go for this, back real soon.

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Edelbrock-1500-6500-RPM-625-int-639-exh-valve-lift-112-deg-lobe-hydraulic-roller-camshaft-use-stock-ratio-rocker-arms-only-Not-legal-sale-use-on-pollution-controlled-veh/_/N-26dj?counter=0&filterByKeyWord=stock+cam&fromString=search&itemIdentifier=936814_0_0_

I really believe that once you get the cam in (I hope so that the next feller would start out Stock and Correct, if it get pulled down again)

I THINK MAYBE YOU REALLY HAD A IGNITION PROBLEM AS THOUGHT AT 1ST,If you gotta buy the Dist, Think seriously on spending on this...... I HAVE DIAGRAMS I MADE, WHEN I SWITCHED TO MOTORCRAFT, SO I WOULD BE CONFIDENT WITH THE SWAP, AND NOT BE HOLDING A BUNCH OF UNKNOWN WIRES, WHEN I SNIPPED IT LOOSE....Like I said:

All you need now is some '80s Ford Wiring between the Dist and Module, and the end that would connect the Jeep to the Module (maybe $10 Max, at a Self Serve Salvage Yard)

Once the Timing stuff is right, WE "WILL" FIND THE ACTUAL PROBLEM, EVEN IF WE RETEST EVERY THING AGAIN--or try different techniques!

Whaccu think?

The Medic

The cam I have in the link above is not correct, the Dist Gear is on the end. Ours is in the middle.I'm still searchin' for something accurate!

The Medic

I'M STILL HERE

KEEP ME INFORMED

MY PAP DIED IN HIS SLEEP LAST NIGHT ABOUT 7:20

YA'LL GOTTA KEEP ME BUSY, PLEASE.

THE MEDIC

I believe in balance. But I also believe if its gonna be done---all components should be done while NEW-LY "BUILDING" a "Perfection Type Engine". It does make a big difference when the RODS are balanced on both ends---PISTONS all weigh the same---and the Crank is spun and balanced 1st (by itself) then the Flywheel (it balanced only, when the crank is spun) then the pressure plate added and balanced by itself----What I mean is each piece is added and material added or removed on that component only, when everything else is spun with it too. Everything marked as to reassemble exactly as it was on the balancer!

Even honing with TORQUE PLATES IS A PLUS, However $$$$$ plays a big role in this kinda stuff!

But realistically-Used engine, forget the balancing, till you make yourself a Perfection Engine

I worked in a Machine shop that balanced special car engines, I was not involved a lot in it. But I did see a '69 Plymouth Roadrunner that lacked power, I rode in it, it drove well at low speeds

They thought "we" had messed up with the machining (I was really just a tear-down clean up kinda feller there, High-school Machine shop landed me the job for about 8 months)

Come to find out it was running PERFECTLY and SMOOTHLY on ONLY 4 cylinders. Balance was the reason

I do not remember exactly why every other cylinder was not firing, but they got it hashed out, and was the owners fault

I also saw a engine come in FRIED (our fault again!). Owner bought a new Oil Pick-up tube. When we pulled the oil pan off, he had installed this "WRONG TUBE", the "Succer Part" (wrote like this because of auto Censor gadget) was not in the bottom of the pan. It was Perpendicular and not even in the oil. The Cool part was HE COULD NOT BE CONVINCED IT WAS HIS FAULT!

Whaddu think about my Opinions?

The Medic

Sorry--Sorta evaded your actual question, Yes some are balanced to a particular engine some are NOT!

I do not know the answer for this engine.

In case you were thrown off, My "PAP" is my Daddy. He had 2 cancers, Agent Orange related from 'Nam. He left in his sleep, this all sorta hit him the last 2 years, while I was laid up with fractured foot w/ several complications. He had a Very Nice Air Force Military Funeral.I took pics

I will let you see my albums (Jeep Stuff) If you want to see them, Just click on my name and send me a message.I do not know if you can initiate, so I will. Look for a message

The Medic