I could see the engine no change sound dealif maybe you had a non-operating valve or no compression.....but the actual SEE NO SPARK rules that out!
Well you are sorta hitting on one of my tests to make!
I have 2 different references that say .016" is your point gap and 32 degrees should be your dwell. 5 degrees BTDC is your timing.
The test you should perform is to Rotate your engine (BY HAND) to each peak, of your Points Cam......with a feeler gauge, check point gap of each peak. Mark one peak for a reference.
I have a Dial indicator, in which using the right attachments, I can watch each peak and each flat to compare the heights.......Provided something is not Muffed or something stuck in the Gear on the bottom of your DIST. and "Bucking" as it travels on the camshaft at that Particular point.
Is this a daily driver or a Project....2nd Vehicle?
Ever thought about changing over to electronic ignition......It would not be that hard.....just a little wiring you would have to do.
I switched my '77 258 Prestolite (troublesome electronic Ignition system) Over to '79 Motorcraft (PROVEN E.I.S.), It involved a little figuring out....but was EZ looking back, after engineering was done.
Not true to all, but the Prestolite system had a "Gold Colored Module" [on the fender, kinda looked like a Ford Voltage Regulator] and the distributor SORTA USED TO LOOK LIKE the one on the left below!
This is my "GOOD-SPECIAL" Prestolite Distributor---I use it to prime New Oil Pumps and lubricate a Newly Rebuilt Engine and to test Oil Pressure....Its NEW "Nelsomatic Modifications" are: A welded on stud at very top (to attach a handheld drill ), and the Cam Driven gear has PERMANENTLY BEEN REMOVED, below fingers, cannot see in this pic)
Other crap missing, is the front plastic plate (where vacuum line attached), in which I removed to verify the "Vacuum Advance [rubber bags, if you will]" Had Holes/ Cracks in them....found only when I discovered NO VACUUM ADVANCE, with my timing light (disconnecting and reconnecting the distributor vacuum line, 3rd Incident with that issue) This also created what we call, "AN EVIL VACUUM LEAK" at the distributor!
The Other Crappy issue was the entrance wires into it were so LITTLE and UNSUPPORTED, they would shake until one broke (stranded wherever you might be, this was 2nd time for this occurrance to happen to me) So the Prestolite HAD TO GO! (wires were torn out for testing, not in pic) The ID tag is located near where the Cap Clip attaches to the distributor (can see in pic)
On the right is the best thing AMC ever did for the distributor!....Motorcraft Ignition...thats MY DISTRIBUTOR ON THE RIGHT.....ABSOLUTELY NO PROBLEMS WITH IT!....Replaced module twice....Later on, after install, I purchased a Lifetime Warranty Ignition Module at my parts house (I keep a spare from the salvage yard, in my console, so I am set!)
I got the 6 cyl. rebuilt distributor for $50 at Advance Auto and a "BLUE" Ignition module and connectors with plenty of attached wire at the salvage yard....$5!...even got a spare module in the deal!----off of '80s Fords....no Jeeps can be found in most yards.
There are only 2 or 3 wires to connect to your existing wire harness......the rest run exposed, in the engine compartment, between the coil, distributor and module via the Ford wires from the salvage yard.
From what I remember---over on the right, the middle red wire and the blue (that I colored in) are the only 2 that need a correct home....(I'm just sorta going on memory.....just a little more studying I could get you cooking!) The others all have connectors and can only go one place!
I could maybe assist you in doing this----you must be "Voltmeter Literate" to insure you make the right connections!
If you have to get a distributor anyway,----why not up-grade?
This is the diagram I traced out, to do my swap (6 cyl...is probably the same diagram---not sure if you would use "BLUE" or "RED" Module...my Dads 351W. F150 uses "BLUE" (a trip to the parts store would verify your color of a module)---my scanner cut off the top black wire.....If I had your E-mail I could maybe send it and get a better view.
I was gonna send you a PM anyway...so you can discreetly give me it there.
Are you able to CORRECTLY INSTALL A DISTRIBUTOR?
No more messing with points--more reliable Ignition.
I will assist all I can.....
Heres my crudely scanned diagram----look for my PRIVATE MESSAGE (PM)
Your turn to respond back with something like, "I'm trying to keep it original."
Wednesday, January 11th, 2017 AT 10:58 AM