1977 Jeep CJ-5 has no spark. What can it be?

Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
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Looks nothing like a Jeep!

But it does have a Jeep Heart!

From blowing up the picture, looks like a campground.

Take in account you may still have the 1 bbl, operations will be the same

I went to the Carter BBD (2 bbl) for a few years on my present CJ-5, Now I have Mr. 390 Holley 4 bbl. Intake and carb did cost, but I did reach my goal. 18 MPG an improvement over 15 or so norm, with an occasional 16

This might aid you later

https://www.2carpros.com/questions/jeep-cj7-1985-jeep-cj7-stalls-when-hot

Come back to see us,

Thanks for giving us a chance

.....We would of finally got it!

Last picture, This is my tram on Veterans Day!

The Medic

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Wednesday, January 11th, 2017 AT 10:58 AM (Merged)
Tiny
THEBREEZE84
  • 1979 JEEP CJ5

Electrical problem
1979 Jeep CJ5 V8 Four Wheel Drive Manual 39,000 miles

I have been trying to start my jeep and am finding that as long as my starter is turning, I get no spark. As soon as I let off the key and the starter shuts off, I get some spark and a few of the cylinders fire, but I can't get it to start. I'm thinking there is something wrong with the ignition switch, and that it might not be sending power to my coil when I'm turning the engine over.

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Wednesday, January 11th, 2017 AT 10:58 AM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MEMBER

Do this connect a wire from the battery positive post to the coil positive terminal and see what happens if it fires up replace the ignition switch.

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Wednesday, January 11th, 2017 AT 10:58 AM (Merged)
Tiny
GERALD SWARTZ
  • 1972 JEEP CJ5

Engine Performance problem
1972 Jeep CJ5 V8 Four Wheel Drive Manual

Have replaced points/cond, cap, rotor, good wire, good plug. Had problem with old parts so replaced every thing and still don't have spark out of Disp cap.

This effects # 3 cly. Only

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Wednesday, January 11th, 2017 AT 10:58 AM (Merged)
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
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See my profile and other CJ 5 and CJ 7 Answers of mine.

Ok, how do you know there is no spark at 3?

What was your test?

I just want to try to narrow things down.

If you swapped "Spark Plug Wires" with another cylinder are your results the same?

Can you hold #3 spark plug (still connected) in your hand, while cranking, and not do the "Coil-o-matic Dance"?

Respond with any info you failed to give. In detail is fine. Thats how I will answer you!

Respond

The Medic

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Wednesday, January 11th, 2017 AT 10:58 AM (Merged)
Tiny
GERALD SWARTZ
  • MEMBER

This is a 304 V8. Motor was losing power. Before problem was found. I installed new points (the type with condenser attached to them) and a new coil. Already had new plugs & plug wires. Reset timing to 5 BTDC and dwell to 30. Motor still had low power curve. With motor running, pulled off each plug wire off at a time from disp. Cap and got heavy spark back into cap & motor faulted each time with each wire except for #3 which had no spark at the cap and no change to the motor. Exchanged #3 wire with a new one (no results) Installed new rotor and cap. Rechecked timing. Still do not have spark to # 3 wire. Could 1 lobe on the disp. Cam be worn down to the point its not opening the points?

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Wednesday, January 11th, 2017 AT 10:58 AM (Merged)
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
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I could see the engine no change sound dealif maybe you had a non-operating valve or no compression.....but the actual SEE NO SPARK rules that out!

Well you are sorta hitting on one of my tests to make!

I have 2 different references that say .016" is your point gap and 32 degrees should be your dwell. 5 degrees BTDC is your timing.

The test you should perform is to Rotate your engine (BY HAND) to each peak, of your Points Cam......with a feeler gauge, check point gap of each peak. Mark one peak for a reference.

I have a Dial indicator, in which using the right attachments, I can watch each peak and each flat to compare the heights.......Provided something is not Muffed or something stuck in the Gear on the bottom of your DIST. and "Bucking" as it travels on the camshaft at that Particular point.

LOST???

Is this a daily driver or a Project....2nd Vehicle?

Ever thought about changing over to electronic ignition......It would not be that hard.....just a little wiring you would have to do.

I switched my '77 258 Prestolite (troublesome electronic Ignition system) Over to '79 Motorcraft (PROVEN E.I.S.), It involved a little figuring out....but was EZ looking back, after engineering was done.

Not true to all, but the Prestolite system had a "Gold Colored Module" [on the fender, kinda looked like a Ford Voltage Regulator] and the distributor SORTA USED TO LOOK LIKE the one on the left below!

This is my "GOOD-SPECIAL" Prestolite Distributor---I use it to prime New Oil Pumps and lubricate a Newly Rebuilt Engine and to test Oil Pressure....Its NEW "Nelsomatic Modifications" are: A welded on stud at very top (to attach a handheld drill ), and the Cam Driven gear has PERMANENTLY BEEN REMOVED, below fingers, cannot see in this pic)

Other crap missing, is the front plastic plate (where vacuum line attached), in which I removed to verify the "Vacuum Advance [rubber bags, if you will]" Had Holes/ Cracks in them....found only when I discovered NO VACUUM ADVANCE, with my timing light (disconnecting and reconnecting the distributor vacuum line, 3rd Incident with that issue) This also created what we call, "AN EVIL VACUUM LEAK" at the distributor!

The Other Crappy issue was the entrance wires into it were so LITTLE and UNSUPPORTED, they would shake until one broke (stranded wherever you might be, this was 2nd time for this occurrance to happen to me) So the Prestolite HAD TO GO! (wires were torn out for testing, not in pic) The ID tag is located near where the Cap Clip attaches to the distributor (can see in pic)

On the right is the best thing AMC ever did for the distributor!....Motorcraft Ignition...thats MY DISTRIBUTOR ON THE RIGHT.....ABSOLUTELY NO PROBLEMS WITH IT!....Replaced module twice....Later on, after install, I purchased a Lifetime Warranty Ignition Module at my parts house (I keep a spare from the salvage yard, in my console, so I am set!)


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/411289_DISTRIBUTOR_COMPARISON_PRESTOLITE_TO_MOTORCRAFT_1.jpg



I got the 6 cyl. rebuilt distributor for $50 at Advance Auto and a "BLUE" Ignition module and connectors with plenty of attached wire at the salvage yard....$5!...even got a spare module in the deal!----off of '80s Fords....no Jeeps can be found in most yards.

There are only 2 or 3 wires to connect to your existing wire harness......the rest run exposed, in the engine compartment, between the coil, distributor and module via the Ford wires from the salvage yard.

From what I remember---over on the right, the middle red wire and the blue (that I colored in) are the only 2 that need a correct home....(I'm just sorta going on memory.....just a little more studying I could get you cooking!) The others all have connectors and can only go one place!

I could maybe assist you in doing this----you must be "Voltmeter Literate" to insure you make the right connections!

If you have to get a distributor anyway,----why not up-grade?

This is the diagram I traced out, to do my swap (6 cyl...is probably the same diagram---not sure if you would use "BLUE" or "RED" Module...my Dads 351W. F150 uses "BLUE" (a trip to the parts store would verify your color of a module)---my scanner cut off the top black wire.....If I had your E-mail I could maybe send it and get a better view.

I was gonna send you a PM anyway...so you can discreetly give me it there.

Are you able to CORRECTLY INSTALL A DISTRIBUTOR?

No more messing with points--more reliable Ignition.

I will assist all I can.....

Heres my crudely scanned diagram----look for my PRIVATE MESSAGE (PM)

Your turn to respond back with something like, "I'm trying to keep it original."

The Medic


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/411289_DISTIGN_MODULE_colored_in_1.jpg

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Wednesday, January 11th, 2017 AT 10:58 AM (Merged)
Tiny
GERALD SWARTZ
  • MEMBER

Thanks for your feed back. Cost of new dist. Won over wasting time to trouble shoot the old one. Easy to install and best of all ITS FIXED and we are back to happy JEEPING with large power curve and sweet tone exhaust.

Didn't want to convert to electronics at this time.

Still don't know why that old dist. Would not fire on #3 but you know that's the rebuilder's problem. Thanks again. Now if I could just figure out why I can't get spark out of my Madza 323?

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Wednesday, January 11th, 2017 AT 10:58 AM (Merged)
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
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Trade in the MAZDA!----GET JEEP!

Glad you got him figured out.

Did you get my Jeep Modifications. Sent thru Walmart Photo?

What'd you think?

OK, heres the hard part, go to my "VOTES" see what others wrote in, then go to "FEEDBACK" and out-do what they said!

Sorry cannot help with the Mazda---post a question in that forum. You will probably get help there.

If ya'll need more help with the Jeep. Come back to this question (as you are doing now), I will be alerted. Then you will definitly get me back.

Expolring other CJ 5 and CJ 7 questions may help, site is being revamped---explore it too!

Ya'll be good!

The Medic

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Wednesday, January 11th, 2017 AT 10:58 AM (Merged)
Tiny
ANTHONY WILLIAM
  • MEMBER

Hey CJMEDEVAC,

You seem like the man with more than one plan. Maybe you can answer me this riddle.

I have a 76 CJ7 with AMC 360 swap. Motorcraft Distributor. Long story short, Starting Solenoid stuck in engaged in the cold I think I cooked something. Swapped with new : Coil, Ignition switch, Starting solenoid, new TP40 module, Fusible link.

I have no fire in run position, have fire in start. If I hotwire + battery to + coil she runs like a charm.

Shes see more grease balls than a Shanghai lady of the night.

Any ideas?

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Thursday, March 30th, 2017 AT 1:38 PM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
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Thanks for relying on me!

I hope I can help!

My wire '79 diagram shows the 'Main Plat' using a 258 it does also show the 304 split off of it (It is sorta confusing on the 304 part)

I use/ modify this diagram to 'splain stuff to y'all. I took a diagram in a manual (2 different pages) and scanned it/ colored it in Microsoft Paint, then I had it blown up and laminated it's now hanging in my garage. Originally all the lines were black/ small/ criss-crossing/nearly impossible to trace out. With it colored and big now, it takes seconds to navigate it! (I still have it in computer format).

So, I grabbed this part and deleted everything around a long while back.

If you will study "I" terminal and my explanation of how it works, you will understand why you have juice to the coil while 'cranking'. SEE THE SPLICE/ OR TEE in the coil wire.

From that splice, head 'South" your problem is most likely from there down.

Check your wires

Check the resistance wire

This is a '79 diagram, Generically forget the firewall in the diagram, BUT see if you are getting juice (12 V) into the module from your firewall.

If all looks good, let me know.

I can diagram you thru the firewall if need be!

I'll help all I can, keep responding

The Medic

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Thursday, March 30th, 2017 AT 5:19 PM
Tiny
ANTHONY WILLIAM
  • MEMBER

Thanks for being reliable!

Ill get to studying and let you know what I find.

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Thursday, March 30th, 2017 AT 6:00 PM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
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Jeep up and running?

The Medic

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Monday, April 3rd, 2017 AT 6:54 PM

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