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1961 All Other Makes All Other Models Engine will not start

Tiny
GUYGOULD
  • MEMBER
  • 1961 ALL OTHER MAKES ALL OTHER MODELS
  • 2.2L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • MANUAL
  • 6,000 MILES
This vehicle ran perfectly not long ago. While it was running, it backfired very loudly. Then, it stopped running. I have gone through and replaced many of the external parts and either rebuilt or replaced them, i.E. Generator, carburetor (performed before backfire), points and condenser, coil, and regulator. Someone suggested somewhere else that the backfire might have indicated a timing chain problem. It cranks but it doesn't fire up. Do you have any ideas or recommendations?
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Thursday, June 5th, 2014 AT 12:35 AM

30 Replies

Tiny
WRENCHTECH
  • MECHANIC
  • 20,757 POSTS
I have no idea what you are working on but the backfire indicates fuel build-up due to an ignition problem. The backfire was the ignition igniting the accumulated fuel. Cam timing WOULD NOT do this.
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Thursday, June 5th, 2014 AT 6:18 AM
Tiny
GUYGOULD
  • MEMBER
  • 19 POSTS
I'm working with a vintage Massey Harris Ferguson #35 Tractor with a Continental 2.2 engine. It's a little outside the realm of cars but basically it's a very basic 4 cylinder engine. Please let me know if there is any other information that would be helpful.
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Thursday, June 5th, 2014 AT 7:25 AM
Tiny
RACEFAN966
  • MECHANIC
  • 5,029 POSTS
As you said an engine is and engine. So do you have spark? If so do you have fuel getting to the carburetor? Get back with that and lets see where to go. Also recheck point gap ok.
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Thursday, June 5th, 2014 AT 8:16 AM
Tiny
GUYGOULD
  • MEMBER
  • 19 POSTS
I have tested the connection between the distributor and the spark plugs and there is no spark to any of the plugs. I don't know how to test from there in the other direction. Obviously, the battery is good as it is turning the starter. I don't know about the connections to and from the distributor to the coil to the regulator and parts in between.
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Friday, June 6th, 2014 AT 9:00 AM
Tiny
WRENCHTECH
  • MECHANIC
  • 20,757 POSTS
You can use an LED type test light to check for coil pulse. Clip the wire to the positive battery terminal and touch the probe to the (-) side of the coil while a helper cranks the engine. The light should flash.
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Friday, June 6th, 2014 AT 11:58 AM
Tiny
GUYGOULD
  • MEMBER
  • 19 POSTS
Performed this test. The result: the test light remains lit without flashing with the key on or off and while the start button is pushed. What should I do next?
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Saturday, June 7th, 2014 AT 11:47 AM
Tiny
GUYGOULD
  • MEMBER
  • 19 POSTS
Okay. I used a continuity tester for the previous result. After using a circuit tester, I found there was no flash. I checked the tester on the battery terminals to be sure it was in working order.
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Saturday, June 7th, 2014 AT 12:10 PM
Tiny
WRENCHTECH
  • MECHANIC
  • 20,757 POSTS
The only part we are interested in is during cranking. If it still didn't flash, you have a problem in the distributor. Make sure the rotor is actually turning. If it is, then you likely have a problem with the points.
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Saturday, June 7th, 2014 AT 12:12 PM
Tiny
GUYGOULD
  • MEMBER
  • 19 POSTS
The rotor turns. I recently put in a new set points and condenser. What should I do next?
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Saturday, June 7th, 2014 AT 12:34 PM
Tiny
WRENCHTECH
  • MECHANIC
  • 20,757 POSTS
Make sure you have power at the (+) side of the col wit the key on and if you do, find your problem in the distributor.
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Saturday, June 7th, 2014 AT 1:39 PM
Tiny
GUYGOULD
  • MEMBER
  • 19 POSTS
When you suggested to use an LED type test light to check for coil pulse. Clip the wire to the positive battery terminal and touch the probe to the (-) side of the coil while a helper cranks the engine. The light should flash.

There was no flash. Isn't that the step that would have indicated whether there was power? I would have thought that no flash = no power.
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Saturday, June 7th, 2014 AT 1:59 PM
Tiny
WRENCHTECH
  • MECHANIC
  • 20,757 POSTS
You were testing for pulsing ground. The constant power is applied to the other side of the coil. That is why I told you to put the clip on the positive side of the battery. You were testing for ground, not power.
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Saturday, June 7th, 2014 AT 2:09 PM
Tiny
GUYGOULD
  • MEMBER
  • 19 POSTS
Okay. I understand. I tested the power to the positive terminal of the coil by removing the wire connection from the terminal and clipping the circuit tester to the wire and touching it to the positive terminal on the coil. I turned on the key. The circuit tester did not light up? Is that a sufficient test for that?
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Saturday, June 7th, 2014 AT 2:20 PM
Tiny
WRENCHTECH
  • MECHANIC
  • 20,757 POSTS
No, that's not how you test for power.
You clip the wire to ground and touch the probe to the positive side with the key on and the light should light up. You don't have to disconnect any wires. Seriously, if you are have trouble with real basic power testing, you may never find this issue and will likely need a shop to diagnose it for you.
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Saturday, June 7th, 2014 AT 2:25 PM
Tiny
GUYGOULD
  • MEMBER
  • 19 POSTS
1) There's no power. 2) If I could get this thing to a shop, I would. It would be much faster.
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Saturday, June 7th, 2014 AT 2:32 PM
Tiny
GUYGOULD
  • MEMBER
  • 19 POSTS
Okay. I sounds like you need more money donated for me to get to the end of this problem. How can I donate more money.
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Saturday, June 7th, 2014 AT 2:43 PM
Tiny
WRENCHTECH
  • MECHANIC
  • 20,757 POSTS
Well, this is where you are going to need a wiring diagram to determine where that power comes from. It passes through the ignition switch to get there but the issue could be before or after the switch or the switch itself. I would start out check all fuses and fusible links.
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Saturday, June 7th, 2014 AT 2:44 PM
Tiny
GUYGOULD
  • MEMBER
  • 19 POSTS
There aren't any fuses on this vehicle that I'm aware of.
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Saturday, June 7th, 2014 AT 2:46 PM
Tiny
GUYGOULD
  • MEMBER
  • 19 POSTS
I'm going to go look again.
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Saturday, June 7th, 2014 AT 2:46 PM
Tiny
GUYGOULD
  • MEMBER
  • 19 POSTS
There are no fuses. There's a regulator and switches but that's it.
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Saturday, June 7th, 2014 AT 2:48 PM

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