We're making progress. Even if the test light was dim on one test point on a fuse, it has to be the same on the other test point if that fuse is good.
Since the fuel pump runs when you bypass the fuel pump relay, we know 12 volts is getting that far, therefore, it should also be on terminals T1 and T2 on the main relay. Pop that relay out and double check there's 12 volts on two terminals in that socket. Those are the two blue arrows in the diagram. In the rare event it is missing, there's a break inside the fuse box.
Assuming you do have 12 volts on two terminals for the main relay, either that relay is defective or it isn't being turned on. The main relay goes by other names on other car brands, but they all get turned in by the Engine Computer. The computer does that when it sees signal pulses coming from the crankshaft position sensor and the camshaft position sensor, meaning the engine has to be rotating, (cranking or running). No reference is made to any sensors for your main relay. I suspect the computer turns the fuel pump relay on separately, but in this case it can't because the problem lies before that.
If you look at these charts, we're down to step 4 already. They include a lot of little steps in between the big ones, so it looks more involved than it really is. If you have the 12 volts on the two terminals in the main relay's socket, try a different relay or jump terminals T1, (blue arrow), to R2, (orange arrow), then see if the engine starts. We know one of the terminals to use. That's either one that lights up with the test light. I can't find a drawing that shows the individual terminals and their designations. Look on the bottom or on the side of the main relay to see if they have the designations shown. They're usually printed on the side on import cars and molded on the bottom for domestic cars. One of the two where the test light didn't light up has to be R2.
Images (Click to enlarge)
Wednesday, January 15th, 2020 AT 3:35 PM