Not starting

Okay. More info. I attached a photo of the camshaft position sensor. It's not quite like the one in the diagram. It looks like it's mounted on the outside. So, does that mean it should be dry? It looks like there's two bolts holding that housing on, but I don't want to pull it if there's something in there I might mess up. What do you think?
Also, my test light does not work on 5v, just tried. And my multimeter is had to tell if the sensor is pulsing or not because the numbers are changing to fast.
In other news, the motor almost started trying to test if the sensor was pulsing. I told the wife to try it again and give it a few quick taps on the gas pedal, and it started. It ran fine. A few things, I was messing around with the wiring harness going to the cam sensor. Maybe a bad wire? Maybe the oil in with the cam sensor is messing with the signal and its a intermediate issue and I just got lucky? And lastly. The other day when it wouldn't start it was - 5 Celsius and today it's +5 Celsius. Maybe the cold made something contract and cause a bad connection issue?
In any case, as of right now I'm not comfortable driving it any distance in case it won't start again when I'm away from home.

Oh, and if it's potentially a coldness issue, the car didn't just not start because it was cold period. I had no spark, injector pulse, or tach signal also while turning over.

It's been a while, but I've been so busy at work it was leaving me no time with the car. But I did figure it out, wiring was good. It was a spread open connector in the plug, it would start when it was warm out but when the outside temperatures dropped below 0 c it wouldn't start, no spark, no pulse, no tachometer. The cold must have made the bad connection contract just enough that there was no contact. Depin, repin and she's good now.
Thanks for the help. And happy holidays!

Happy new year!
New year, new problem!
I started having starting issues again. Haha sounds funny like that.
But seriously, so I started checking things, I was really stumped, but I was having multiple issues at the same time so that made diagnosing tough. But I figured out I needed a new crank sensor again, because I lost rpm signal when cranking. The first one I bought was just a cheap one. This time I got a good one. But still, it wouldn't start. So, checking spark I realized my spark was weak looking. My brand-new plugs are looking pretty black. So I'm running rich? So tonight, I brake cleaned and brass brushed my plugs to look new again, hooked everything back up, no start. So, I pulled relay 2 for the fuel pump. So, I have no fuel pumping at all, and I sprayed starting fluid in the intake tube while my wife was cranking it over, and it started and ran while I was spraying the fluid. But it won't run on fuel. And it is definitely getting fuel, because if I pull the 4 plugs and turn it over you can see it spraying out the plug holes, plus when I try to start the car and it won't start, if I pull the plugs they will be soaked in gas, it just floods out and won't start. Also, as mentioned earlier the plugs got really back after a short time of running the car, suggesting it's been running rich.
The plugs are gapped to spec according to the manual. Is it possible I'm just getting too much fuel, and what would cause this? The fuel pressure regulator was already mentioned before here. Would it be at fault? It's in the fuel tank as it's a return less fuel system.
Or is there any other issue that could be causing this?

Weird, I had replied to this yesterday, but it seems to have not gone through.

Okay, fuel, it's definitely fresh fuel.
Fuel pressure is 48/49 PSI.
The injectors I had out of the car a couple months ago when I was trouble shooting issues as well. They all sprayed well, and they all worked properly and were all cleaned at the same time.

A friend of a friend had just recommended that I change the coolant temperature sensor. He said if it failed or is giving a false very cold reading that the ecu will send more fuel for a cold start and that coul be the flooding issue. He also told me to get new plugs, as cleaning them after they have fouled will still produce a weak spark. That accompanying too much fuel and boom, no start.

Does this sound plausible? CTS is cheap enough to try it, I guess.

Okay, so, I picked up a coolant temperature sensor yesterday anyway just because it was cheap and in stock at the local part store. No change.

I hooked up the gauge to the fuel line again. I have a video I attached up above in the chat here. It did the exact same as that video. The needle is around 48ish psi, it drops to 42 PSI as soon as I stop cranking the engine. And after 5 minutes it dropped to 40 PSI.

Also, the plugs, I was unable to get new plugs, the local store didn't have the NGKs in stock, I'll have to order them next week. My current plugs though, I've noticed that the gap was smaller than I set them. The manual calls for.028 to.031 I had them gapped to.030 but when I rechecked now they were all around.023 I don't know if that's enough to cause issues, and I assume that's from dropping them in the holes, but from now on I'm going to gap them and insert them with the plug socket so the gap has no chance of being affected by dropping them in.
The car would still not start with them gapped right, but I'd still like to get some new NGKs to absolutely rule out the plugs as an issue.

Yes, if I pull all 4 spark plugs out and crank the engine over you can see fuel shooting out the cylinders. I also have a stethoscope and can hear the injectors firing.

Also, after a failed attempt at trying to start the car, if I pull the plugs to inspect, they are soaked in gas.

Oh, and if I spray in the intake while the fuel system is enabled it will not start. It bucks a little bit but will not start. The spray only works if the fuel system is disabled.

I believe I'm getting too much fuel and its flooding, soaking the plugs. But why? Are the plugs too weak to ignite the fuel, but good enough to ignite the ether in the start fluid spay?

I think I need new plugs next possibly. But I'm not sure.
Oh, and I can add, I tried a known working ECU and it's the same results, no change. They are plug and play, no immobilizer.

The regulator is in the tank with the fuel pump as it's a return less system. And I put my pressure gauge right before the fuel rail.

This morning I went out to the car, the gauge dropped to 18psi but that's overnight. Is that okay? After 5 minutes it only dropped to 38.

I also tried the clear flood start while I was out there, it did not start. But I feel like I should replace the spark plugs to give this test a fair chance. I should be able to get new plugs this week.
I feel the ether spray will ignite with the potentially weak spark where the gasoline may not, possibly?

I did not check the plugs after the clear start test, but any other time after a failed start when I checked the plugs they were soaked in gas.

Okay, so I messed with the car today. I got the proper NGK 3656 plugs. I had the Autolite equivalent in it before. The NGKs are the OEM plug, and I've read mixed reviews online that only the NGKs work proper in these motors. Nowhere had them in stock so I originally got the Autolite's. But now I ordered the NGK 3656 plug, and they are installed.

After installing the plugs, there was no change. All 4 plugs came out soaked in gas after trying to start it.

Now, I tried this already a few nights ago, it would start on ether spray alone, but not on the spray with the fuel system running as well.
But tonight, I tried the spray in the intake for fun with the fuel on and it started and continued to run. It ran rough and backfired a lot though. I didn't let it run for long like this. It seemed to idle not too bad but backfired and wanted to stall when giving it throttle.

I again checked for spark; they spark beautifully now. I also tested the injector plugs for pulse with a test light. I tested for pulse with all 4 unplugged and again after plugging in one at a time to rule out one possibly shorting out, I never lost pulse no matter which one was being tested while the rest were plugged in.

So that's where I am now. So why the backfiring and rough running? I'm guessing it's running rich. It needs the ether to get started, it just ignites easier I guess and gets it going. Once it starts it stays running. Without the spray the plugs drowned in gas.

The last time I had the car running it did run rough when it first started, I just assumed it was because I hadn't run it in a bit, after it warmed up it a great without backfiring. This was probably a month ago or so. But I'm thinking that backfiring isn't just because it's been a while since it ran. Also, those Autolite plugs got really black after just a short time of the car running a month ago as well. Indicating a rich condition.

Where do I go from here? I had no DTC's before when it was running either.

If I have a leaking injector there's not really a way to determine which one is leaking is there? Or would I have to replace them all?
But if only one was leaking would that cause a no start? It wouldn't run on 3 cylinders. All 4 plugs are getting wet.

Just came outside this morning, fuel pressure is zero. Lost all pressure overnight. Is that normal or should it hold some pressure?