Auto Repair Advice by Professional Automotive Experts
Repair Topics /
Heater-1
/ Heater-2
MORE: Heater questions
Car Heater Question and Answer - This category
contains featured questions as examples. They relate to most vehicles.
Question: 1992 Buick
Lesabre V6_mileage: 102,000. There never seems to be enough heat coming from
the heater in this vehicle. I have changed the thermostat, and also had the radiator
flushed; still just luke warm heat. Do you have any common remedies for this model
vehicle
Answer: The heater core is like a small radiator
inside your dash. The coolant flow through it can be restricted by corrosion.
The lack of flow of coolant through the heater core will result in a lack of warm
air inside the car. Flushing out the heater core may help. If not, you
will have to replace it. Also check the heater control valve if your car is
equipped with one.
Question: 2002 Ford Explorer Mileage: 70,000. Three
years ago, beginning of winter 2000, I could not get enough heat in the cabin. Cool
air coming out of the heater, engine temperature not rising normally and often falling
quickly. Thermostat clearly stuck open. A local shop replaced the thermostat and
problem fixed, lots of heat again, normal engine temps. Price $38.97. Later that
winter, Feb. or March the current problem developed. The engine temperature would
quickly climb normally, but I didn't seem to be getting enough heat in the cabin.
I put my hand to the heat outflow ducts and could feel ALMOST warm air coming from
the left duct, but very cool air coming out of the right (larger) duct. This would
continue for up to 15 minutes after the engine had reached normal running temperature.
Then, whamo, plenty of heat came from both ducts. The engine temperature did not
change when the heat would finally start to flow. I bit the bullet and took it to
the Ford dealer. They managed to reproduce the problem. They promptly berated me
for putting a non-OEM (original equipment manufactured) thermostat in the engine.
They told me the thermostat was the problem and replaced it. I was charged $389.44.
The problem continued with absolutely no change whatsoever. Can you help me solve
this before another winter arrives?
Answer: Check to see that the blend doors are not hanging up in the heater
duct. If okay, check the coolant level in the radiator, not just the overflow tank.
Do this when the engine is cold...you don�t want to take the radiator cap off when
the engine is hot. If your car is equipped with a heater control valve, make sure
that it is operating properly.
Question: 2001 Ford Thunderbird miles: 54,980 My car blew a head gasket,
just had a valve job, runs great until I turn on the heater, which is the electronic
climate control variety, digital temp readout, etc. The heater blows hot air for
a few minutes then turns cold. The engine temp gauge, which was in the normal range,
before turning on the heater, begins to increase toward hot. The temp gauge returns
to normal when I turn off the heater. The valve job mechanic and other guys are
stumped, can you help?
Answer: Verify that the temperature gauge on the dash is accurate. Do
this by putting a thermometer on the radiator. If this tests okay, check for air
bubbles in the cooling system as you could possible have an air lock in the heater
core or it is partially plugged.
Question: 2001 Dodge 1500 mileage: 38,000. Not much heat. Return line
from heater core is cool, input line is hot. Tap water flows through core well,
even ran CRL thru. Flushed system, changed stat, and even pump. Ran without thermostat,
no better. Since there is no control valve and this has climate control, I don't
know if it has an electronic problem or the core is still a problem. Looks like
replacing the core is a complete dash removal. Can't find info on this type of system.
Answer: Test for a partially plugged heater core by testing the flow of
coolant through the heater core. If it flows through easily then the problem is
more than likely in the electronic heater controls or a stuck blend door.
Question: 2001 Ford Focus, miles: 86,000 automatic transmission. I didn't
have any trouble using our heater to defrost the frost or snow on the windshield.
The rear defrost works perfectly find. It was only 3 or 4 mos. ago that I thought
of testing the heater, you know, in preparation for the winter season. That's when
I got worried! Here's what I usually do: I would set the temperature towards the
red part. Then, turn-on the front defrost switch. Select the fan to medium speed.
Then, guess what happens! Smoke comes out! This continued until now! Then it was
only two (2) weeks ago I noticed green stuff dripping to the bottom of the driver's
and passenger's seats (not a lot to be noticed). You could see it if you looked
closely and with the light on. And finally, I went to an auto repair shop, and as
soon as I said, "smoke coming out of vents" then said heating core. So, the started
computing an estimate and they came up with $201.84 (includes parts and labor and
anti-freeze). I looked around to see if I could get a cheaper estimate. Do you have
another suggestion on why it's smoking through the vents when the defrost or heater
is switched on or do you agree with these people? In addition, do you think the
estimate is approximately, close to what is acceptable or could you give me an accurate
and least costly estimate?
Answer: It appears as if the heater core is leaking again. As for the
estimate, prices vary from area to area. The best thing to do is check with friends
and neighbors to find a mechanic you can trust.
Question: 2001 Dodge Dakoda Truck mileage: 65,000. My heat gauge goes
the whole way to hot and blows out cold air then it will finally go down to normal
and it will blow out heat when I pull in my driveway and let it idle it goes back
up to hot. When it does that I look in my coolant bottle and coolant is pouring
out the overflow I bought a new thermostat and it is still doing it I was told it
could be my head gasket or the head but my car is not loosing power not smoking
and not leaking water into my oil. So, I am not sure if it's the head gasket or
head. Jimmy
Answer: The heater in your car depends upon a flow of hot coolant going
through the heater core in order to get hot air into the car. If the heater core
is partially plugged, it will restrict the flow. If you have a head gasket that
is putting exhaust into the cooling system, it will eventually get into the heater
core. When this happens there is no coolant in the heater core to make the air warm.
If the water pump vanes have corroded away the result will be very poor coolant
circulation causing the heater to not blow hot air. If your car is equipped with
a heater control valve that is not functioning properly, the coolant flow will be
restricted. One or a combination of these factors is likely the culprit in your
case.
Question: 1999 Toyota Camry mileage: 111,000. I am not getting much heat
out of my heater. I recently had the thermostat replaced and a new water pump put
in. The mechanic told me that there might be an "air bubble" blocking the flow of
coolant to the heater core. I am also finding that coolant is always filling up
the overflow bottle and spits out the hose that exits it. Only once in a while will
I get very good heat. The heater core is in good shape and not leaking. I have had
to add coolant a few times since the new water pump. I attribute this to the overflow
bottle sucking out the coolant and spitting it out. There are no leaks anywhere
with the cooling system either.
Answer: Check for exhaust in the cooling system as you may have a head
gasket that is starting to leak.
Question: 2004 Ford Taurus mileage: 69,000. Heater is not working. A few
weeks ago, it was working fine. Now when I turn the temperature dial from cold to
hot it remains cold. I can feel the air change directions as I change from Def.
to Def & heat. Nothing is wrong with the heater core, no leaks of any kind. Heater
hose gets hot to the touch. I believe this is a vacuum or elec. problem. Could it
be a damper is not closing or opening to force the fan to blow over the heater core
vs. A/C? Not sure (can't see) where the vacuum lines are on these newer vehicles.
Do you have any suggestions?
Answer: The air-conditioning heating controls are not vacuum controlled
but are controlled by electric motors. You may be experiencing problems with the
motor that controls the blend door. Also check the main control unit and all system
fuses.
Question: 2002 Cadillac Seville mileage: 92,000. Not getting any
heat/air through vents but I am getting heat/air from defrost and underneath vents
but not out of regular vents. Why not?
Answer: The heat and air conditioning ducts are controlled by vacuum motors.
Check the vacuum supply from the engine to the heater/air-conditioning controls.
Question: 2001 Ford Windstar mileage: 80,000. When I turn heater
on, I get oil fumes through heater. Have checked all oil compartments for
leaks, changed oil pan seal, transmission seal and rear engine seal. Valve
cover gaskets checked head gaskets checked. Get fumes when sitting still with
engine running and heat on.
Answer: The fumes may be coolant from a leaky heater core.
Question: 2001 Chevrolet 1500 Truck mileage: 95,000. Unable to maintain
engine temperature to 190 degree were I can maintain proper temperature for the
heater and for engine. If setting idle it will go up to 210, but when you
go on the road for a test the temperature drops to 140 degree's. Can you advise
what is wrong? I replaced the thermostat twice with a 192-degree thermostat.
Answer: You may be having a coolant circulation problem that is
possibly caused by the water pump. We have seen the vanes on the pump corrode
away to the point where there is very little coolant circulation.
Question: 2001 Ford Focus mileage: 83,000. When I first start my
Tempo in the morning it sounds like water running somewhere and I can smell anti-freeze.
I checked my anti-freeze level it is ok.
Answer: The water running sound that you hear is probably
caused by air in the cooling system. As the air and coolant go through the
heater core, it will make the sound you described. The anti-freeze that
you smell is probably from a leaky heater core. You mentioned that you checked
the anti-freeze level and it was okay. Was this done in the radiator or in
the over flow reservoir? The radiator should be checked, ice cold and clear
full of coolant.
Question: 2003 Chevy S-10 Blazer mileage: 44,754. I have a 1996
Chevy Blazer 4x4 with a V6-262 4.3L engine. About three weeks ago, the heater
stopped blowing heated air. Having a father that teaches automotive
technology we decided it must be the thermostat. We replaced thermostat with
no success. Blower works fine. Coolant level is good. Connecting
the scan tool the vehicle temperature only got to 195 after extended running time.
Unable to find any info on normal operating temp. For a Blazer we are at a
loss. Using the fix of old, we placed cardboard over the radiator and that
seems to make it work better not great. With the problem possibly being the
heater core or actuator with a dealership repair cost of $500.00 I am no doubt frustrated.
Do you know of anything else that we might try or any problems that you have heard
about Blazers cooling system? There are no recalls to date on all data.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Answer: Two things to check: First check for vacuum that goes
to the heater control, you may have a loose or cracked line which would cause the
heater doors not to work properly; Secondly, check for a partially plugged heater
core that would restrict the coolant flow.
Question: 2004 Plymouth Voyager mileage: 89,000. Would too much
antifreeze cause my vehicle to blow cool air from my heater? It works fine
when in park, but it and the car cool down when driving. The needle goes back
to cool also.
Answer: Too much anti-freeze would not cause cool air to blow
from your heater. Your problem is probably with the engine thermostat; it
is either stuck open or it is too cold (160�) and should be replaced with the proper
one for your car.
Question: 2001 Nissan Altima. The heater stops working when the RPM slows
down. As long as she is running around 65 miles per hour, it works.
If she slows down or has to stop, it stops. Any idea what this might be.
She has a small baby and needs the heater working badly. We have asked everyone,
nobody seems to have a clue. My husband thinks it may be the vacuum.
Answer: Check coolant level you may have a coolant leak. Also heater core
in your car is partially plugged or restricted nearly stopping the flow of coolant
through it. Flushing it out or replacing it should correct her problem.
Question: 2002 Toyota Camry mileage: 85,000. Heater will not get
hot. Temperature gauge is normal. Air is just barely warm. Have replaced
thermostat, vacuum control switch in dash and heater core. Have bypassed the
valve at the firewall. Water hose to heater is hot to the touch. Return
water feels cooler to the touch.
Answer: Sounds like you are having trouble with the doors in the
heater duct not opening properly. You might want to check the vacuum supply
to the heater control switch in the dash.
Question: 2000 Chevrolet Cavalier mileage: 86,000. I recently had
problems with the heater in my car. I keep blowing fuses for my heater...we
tried to replace the fan thinking that was the cause but no go.... all the other
fuses are working fine its just the heat...can you think of any other problem?
The only heat I am getting is when I get driving it automatically flows through
the vent and baby it is cold outside in NY.
Answer: You need to perform a couple of tests. First, disconnect
the power wire to the heater fan and turn on the controls for the heater to see
if it blows a fuse. If it does, then you have problems in either the wiring
or the control on the dash. Second, check the variable speed resister.
It is usually located in the air duct close to the blower motor. It is possible
that it has shorted out.
Question: 2004 Honda Civic mileage: 39,000. Heater is not working
properly. It starts out blowing hot then gets cold. Head gaskets were
done recently. New thermostat installed. Heater core flushed.
Radiator only 6 months old. Temperature gauge is also erratic. Intermittently
goes to hot then comes down to normal range. I cannot figure this out and
neither can my mechanic. I need your help desperately.
Answer: We think your problem is a low coolant level. With
the engine cold, and we mean cold, open the radiator cap (not the overflow cap)
and it should be clear full. If not, fill it to the top. Over the next
couple of days, check for coolant leaks under the car when parked.
MORE: Heater questions
Repair Topics /
Heater-1
/ Heater-2
Look up your heater question in our
Car Repair forum section.
Got Car Repair Questions?
We will answer it for FREE!
Related Subjects
GET ONLINE
CAR REPAIR MANUALS. Get instant access to your vehicles drive belt routing,
wiring diagrams, trouble code information, updates and factory bulletins.
| 
