Rear blower not working

Thank you. The fuses are good. Next question would be, go right to replacing the motor before the resistor? That is assuming there is one. Next how the heck do you remove all the panels in the 2010 model.

It is extended model with automatic rear climate control.

I also was wondering if there is a breakdown of how to remove the back panels to access the blower motor?

Hi Joe. I have been researching this all day and working on it all day. I have a 2013 Tahoe LT with Auto Air. I am limited in tools to a digital Fluke Multimeter and a 12v test light. I have checked the 30a fuse in the left of dash and the 40a fuse under the hood and they are fine. I have 12v to the white/red wire on both sides of the module and at the fan at all times. Continuity with ground at the black wire one the blower module at all times, but on the orange wire it is only when the controls are turned on. The little green wire that I assume is a signal wire from the controls is PWM so I don't know how to accurately test it but I can see a variance that correlates to the blower level settings. Interestingly, there also seems to be some sort of correlation to the continuity/resistance with ground off the orange wire as I change the blower levels. I have a buddy at a parts store who let me swap out a module/resistor and that didn't help. I also direct wired the fan to 12v and it came on. I can hear something occasionally when I turn it on and I am assuming it is the blender door but cannot confirm. Any help would be appreciated.

Good call sir!

So, I saw your reply at 0530 here and just couldn't wait to try it. Ran a jumper write to a good, known ground and the fan came on, but with some interesting quirks. While hooked directly to ground the fan was on high, regardless of the setting at the rear controls. If I jiggled the wire that I had shoved in the back of the fan connector it would vary the fan speed. I pulled the ground wire before I shit off the vehicle and the fan started somewhat working as it should, just weak. Like I was able to change the fan speed at the rear controls and could hear it change but overall it was much weaker than it was supposed to be. That lasted about 3-5 seconds before it shut off completely. Those dots were me having an epiphany in the middle of typing and running back to check something. I just shoved my jumper ground wire back into the orange wire in the plug at the fan and it works as it should. There is some sort of bad connection on the ground side at the plug.

Thank you sir, without your guidance I would have never figured that out. You are a rock star!

One takeaway that I have gotten is that the fan speed seems to be controlled by the ground and not the power. Makes sense now that everything is laid out but didn't before. Hopefully this further troubleshooting will help someone else in the future.

Final follow-up. So, it took a bit of trial and error to find the culprit of the faulty ground wire at the blower fan. I tried to make an extraction tool for the plug and that was unsuccessful so I ended up cutting the connector off and replacing it with 2 female blade connectors. As it turns out that was something I didn't have to do as the problem persisted. I eventually was able to figure out that there was a little lateral play in the plug on the fan side and that if I positioned it just right it would come on. Took the fan apart and it didn't look like it was easily serviceable so I ended up replacing the fan and it seems to be working flawlessly for the time being.
Again, thank you Joe and I hope that our troubleshooting will help someone in the future.