ENGINE STALLING

Hi:
I would start by checking for vacuum leaks. Also, the engine should idle at 900 RPS in park and about 700 in gear. When you put the rear defrost on, it is putting enough load on the alt to kill the engine at such a low idle. If I had to guess, I would say there is a problem with the throttle position sensor, but I can't guarantee that without a check engine light and code. Since you are not getting that, I would check for vacuum leaks.

Also, the car has a 5 year 50K 100% warranty on emission components, so any sensor or emission component is covered parts and labor. Maybe you could ask them to replace the TPS under warranty. Also, if the car keeps dieing on you, it is a hazzard. If you purchased the car new, they have 3 chances to repair a potential dangerous problem. If they can't fix it, it may qualify for the lemon law.

check for vacuum leaks and see if they can bump the base idle up to the RPM I mentioned. If there is a vacuum leak, usually you can hear a hissing sound.

Joe

Hello, This sounds like the same problem I had. The car would stall when coming to a stop or shifting into gear (rev or forward). It would also Idle low 500-700. When I would give it gas it would hesitate, almost like it would want to stall. I have it in the shop now. They just called me and said it's the EGR Valve ( Exhaust Gas Recirculation). They said they were able to disconnect it and drive around, They said that did not stall when disconnected. But they have to instal a new one for enviromental reasons. Part is around 75.00. Hope this helps you. I will let you know when I get the car back.

I have had the car back for over a week now. Problem fixed. It was the EGR Valve. Hopefully I can get another 130,000 miles on it.

I don't know how many miles or the year of your car, but that falls under the emissions warranty, 5 years or 50K with a 0 deductable.

Make sure it is covered under warranty if you can.

Joe

This happened to my Avenger also at 34,000 miles. I took it to the dealer and they had a rash of Avengers come back in the last few weeks because of the same problem. They were told by Dodge to redo the TPSM recall. They told me that salt build up on the original TPSM recall still would make the car stall. Not sure if that is right but its been a week and my car is running ok....for now.

I was driving and the car felt like it had no power and it cut off. A couple of times it did it on the driveway as i was warming the engine.

Hello,

This sounds like the TIPM is going out but to be sure lets run the codes to see what comes up here is a guide to help us get started.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

Please run down this guide and report back.

It started but sluggish and it ran normal for a couple of weeks but it did it again today. the check engine light is off so i have not checked any codes. Also i dont know if this is related but my alarm went off twice this morning by itself.

Thank you for you help

I dont think the alarm going off by itself is related we need to see if there are any codes.That will really help narrow down this intermintant problem.If you find any codes olease ket me know the exact code numbers not code descriptions.

I took the car into the dealer they replace the TIPM cost me $340.00. I wished I checked it myself would have saved $$$ thank for your help through. I love this site.

Use 2CarPros anytime, we are here to help. Please tell a friend.

I have a 2008 dodge avenger. I was in idle for about 10min. When I went to reverse, the engine sounded really rough, like it was running really hard. I shut it off, turned it back on and it started hard. I parked, went to shut it off and the engine would not stop running but it did not sound normal. It was running really hard. I tried multiple times to start it back up but the engine would not turn over. It finally just died. I tried again about 3min later and it was as if nothing happened. The car started fine. I since then have tried starting it about 6-10 times and there seem to be no issues. Please help!

Next time it refuses to start don't wait for it to make up its mind-do below immediately to determine if its fuel or spark problem

Get a helper disconnect a sparkplug wire or 2 and ground it to the engine atleast 3/16 away from ground-have helper crank engine over-do you have a snapping blue spark? If so-you have a fuel related problem, Do you hear the fuel pump come On when you turn key on? If not check fuel pump fuse and fuel pump relay if okay-check the fuel pressure to rule out the fuel filter/fuel pump/pressure regulator and listen to the injector/s are they pulsing or hook up a noid light. No snapping blue spark continue to troubleshoot the ignition system-power input to the coil/coil packs,coil's resistances,cap and rotor,distributor pick-up coil, ignition control module, cam and crank sensors and computer Note: If it doesn't apply disregard it and keep testing

Every time it rains, my engine will cut off while driving when I come to a stop light or stop sign. Also the transmission seems to slip. I took it to the dealer for a diagnostic test and they found nothing wrong with it. It seems like moisture has an effect on it. What could be the cause?

I have a 2008 Avenger with the same problem. Just wondering, did you ever get it fixed? I have been having a hard time getting to the cause of it. Thanks.

My car is stalling when coming to a stop and when started and put into drive or reverse it will lose power and stalls too. Here lately it has also been stalling driving down the road while moving. It is becoming a hassard. Once the check engine light came on and the codes came back as misfire on coil 4 plus spark plugs. They change spark plugs and cleaned the throttle plate. When we got it back home it started doing the same thing. Seems like you have to be driving the car for 30 mins and turning the air condionting on really kills the rpms. it also losses power while driving and the stalls once rpms are low. Here this last time it did it while i was sitting there tring to start the car back and it was just cranking and cranking, then cranking its self lights started blinking simontaniouly together it was the check engine light and the electronic throttle light with dinging. Its in the shop now but i dont trust our mechanics around here. Do you have any answers for me ? I ve already told them what the car was doing but like all things it wont do it for them. im think about going back to them and get the car to do it because it sure does it on me every time i get in the thing. Please help.

The loss of power makes me question the catylatic converter, which is under 100% factory warranty. However, the flashing lights... sound like a problem with the security system. Does the car have a factory security or has an aftermarket one been added? Also, do you know what codes they actually got when they scanned the computer?

Let me know.

2008 dodge...accelorated 4 times on me....3 times while driving..4th while idleing....took to garage first time, they said nothing showed on scan...then second time taking to garage, they changed the throttle control sensor...now the car stalled at stop sign...felt a jar, then it quite...then again i came to a stop sign...and i felt a jar (like someone hit me from behind) then my car reved...all while i had my foot on the break..but this time it didn't stall....

What is going on...i've been told all about computers having to learn a persons driving..etc...Just not a good enough excuse , after putting out that kind of money.........can someone help me pls....ps...they said they put a flight recorder on already...i'm insisting one be but on again ...as the car is acting up more and more frequenty...HELP PLS

Hi:
It sounds like a throttle position sensor or idle air control valve. Has the check engine light ever come on? Also, don't let shops put aftermarket parts on the car at this point. All emission components (sensors) are under 100% warranty for 5 years or 50K.

Take the car back, have them ride with you and feel the problem. This is a serious issue and they have 3 times to repair it (if you got it new). If they can't fix it and it is a hazard, it falls under the lemon law. If the car accelerates on it's own, it is a hazard.

Let me know what happens or if you have other questions. Remember, any emission component is fully covered parts and labor.

Joe

at first car only stalled occasionally on deceleration then after a week stalled every time I decelerated (stop signs, turns and seems to occur under 1000 rpm) at first idle was fine but now idles rough and dies sometimes when idle but always dies when I slow down. Car runs a lot better when cold but after 1/4 mile of driving will die when decelerating. drives fine when not slowing down and slows down fine until under 1000rpm.
took it in and mechanic replaced: valve cover gaskets, cleaned the EGR, new wires, new plugs, idle speed control motor/valve, and changed the oil. He said there is a map sensor error causing the engine light and replaced the map sensor but car is exactly the same as before. He gave up (cost me a so much and same problem please help). He said take it to dealer and maybe replace the computer (he said that would be expensive.... just the new plug wires cost $200 and he thinks this will be expensive!!! god only know s how much that will cost me. I have read a lot of the same problem but all treads just seem to ask the question with no answers. He also recommended me junking the car. :-0 because of the high miles but I cant afford that. currently I shift to neutral on deceleration and use left foot for break while maintaining 1500 rpm with right foot sometimes I cut it too close and engine drops from 1000 to 0, when I try to push the gas to compensate (if that happens) there is a lag but sometimes it takes just before it dies and rev's to 3000 and hold s for 5 sec or so before drifting back down if that helps any.

ok been about a week, am I doing something wrong with this post, I tried to give as much info as I could. why is no one responding? not even an "I don't know"? I didn't mention high miles meant 180000.

I replaced the PCV Valve ($3) myself and the gasket it fits into the valve cover at ($4). figured what would it hurt at that price. but no change. It actually seemed like it was fixed for 15 min. it started without having to push on gas and idled down to 500 rpm with no problems, drove it around the parking a while and thought the 7 bucks did the trick drove it home 10miles parked in the drive way idling, went in the house to leave short note for my wife and when back out and it had died. was back to exactly how it was before.... ? still need help please someone's had to have this problem before and found a solution... dies during deceleration, after a week of that it will no longer idle and now will not start with out pushing on the gas.

I notice you posted back in April....no replies here but I was curious if you were able to find a fix for your avenger elsewhere? My car has been in the shop for about the same time since you posted your question, and they can't figure it out there.

karen_vabch@yahoo.com

I took it to another garage and they replaced the EGR valve, The other place only cleaned it and moved on. After all the money and time I put in to it switching out things, this place fixed it in about 1.5 hrs and charged me about $120. now thinking back on it, it may have been a combo to the things I did fix (listed above) but If I had to do it again, I would definitely start with cleaning the EGR and if that didn't work then replacing it. then moving to the other things I tried. The worst thing about it is that the EGR problem had no error code for the computer, the error codes were all from problems resulting from the EGR problem, and that's what confused the other garage. Good luck... I love this car but this problem was a @#$@##$#@#$#. This is the only problem I've ever had with it... good luck

My 1996 Avenger V6 is doing the same thing. Comes up with various check engine lights. One was throttle position sensor--easy fix, so I replaced that. No luck. Decided to take the car to the dealer to figure it out and just before I took it in the CEL came on again. Dealer said code was for rear upstream O2 sensor(I have 4 sensors, and this is the only one that isn't obvious when you are under the car), and they tested it and it was stuck at center. They say the throttle body needs to be decarbonized too, but they don't think any of this will solve the problem. I saw that the EGR valve was listed as the cause of the same problem in a sebring. I'll replace the O2 sensor and if the problem persists, the EGR valve is next! Thanks for your post! If anyone has any other advice, I'd appreciate it.

I had a similar problem with my 99 Avenger last October. Engine light was on and ran a code related to the EGR. After talking with a couple people, the consensus was that nobody thought the EGR valve/sensors/whatever was causing the problem. So it's either another air problem, electrical, or fuel related.

I cleaned up the throttle body which was dirty but didn't help anything.

I started thinking the fuel pump might be having some troubles, so I bought one of those as well as a new fuel filter (they should be changed at the same time). Since the filter was $20 and the pump was $140, I decided to try just putting the filter on and see what would happen. No more stalling for 8 months.

Now it's doing it again. I'm at 165k miles, so it's getting old and I only need to keep it running until winter or so, so I think I'm going to try putting another fuel filter on it. If I decide to keep it longer, I may do a new pump and EGR.

I am working at a dodge dealership and have heard of the avengers have a problem with aftermarket distributors. I have a car in my stall right now that is stalling out. I read the posts and it sounds like the egr would be the fix. The only thing is is that the vehicle has no cel light on. Makes it even harder. Im gonna due a fuel filter because its plugged up and then block off the EGR system. If it stalls like that, the the EGR is not the problem. But if it runs fine, then it is the problem and will be fixed. But just to keep in mind, dont forget about the distributor. The camshaft sensor is part of that. The system is called a speed density system and needs that signal to run. Along with the map sensor.

I just left my car at the dodge dealership near where I live and they have had it for about 7 days now and They cant seem to figure it out, I don't understand how this is stumping everyone I sure wish someone knew how to fix this problem I want my car back Other then this Idle issue at stops my car runs great, I've replaced timing belt, EGR, distributor and distributor cap crank shaft positioning sensor and still no change. Hopefully I hear something good on Monday....