Cranks but will not start

Tiny
DREWANDLIN
  • MEMBER
  • 2001 NISSAN SENTRA
  • 1.8L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • 180,000 MILES
The car cranks but doesn't start. History: the car hasn't been driven for six months at that time it ran rough but ran. It does throw out a p301 code and a code for fuel level sensor or something like that. 1/8 tank of gas in it. It just sat for six months through a very hot Las Vegas summer. When I checked the oil, it comes almost halfway up the dipstick. I'm not sure if that's normal for a car that has just been sitting. If it's not then it's way too high like to know that too. I'm no mechanic but do have general knowledge I can turn a wrench read a multimeter etc, follow instructions what's my best starting point to get this car started.
Saturday, November 6th, 2021 AT 4:22 PM

15 Replies

Tiny
SQM
  • MECHANIC
  • 6,383 POSTS
Hello,

In order for an engine to start it will need spark, fuel, and compression.

Take a look at this guide, it covers the typical crank no start issues:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

When you turn on the key, can hear the fuel pump come on?

As for the oil, it should not be halfway up the dipstick. Keep in mind that you do not want to start the engine will excess oil as it can do some damage. The oil should be at the top of the hash mark at the bottom of the dipstick (look below).

Let me know what else are you experiencing.
Thank you.
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Saturday, November 6th, 2021 AT 8:43 PM
Tiny
DREWANDLIN
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Yeah. Thanks yeah, I know the general procedures for determining spark and fuel. I think it's getting fuel I could hear a humming it's going to tell me no spark that I already fairly sure on. What I wasn't sure was that oil being so high, plus I've never dealt with a car that just sat that long without even being turned. Well, I'm going to check the compression especially in that first cylinder that had the misfire code on it check the fuel and spark, change the oil, and then we'll take it from there and I'll probably need help, so I'll get back with you again and thank you. Oh, one more thing. What's the best way to purge that gas tank so I can put fresh clean fuel in it, or do you think that's not necessary?
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Sunday, November 7th, 2021 AT 1:46 AM
Tiny
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Take a look at this video, it covers how to syphon fuel out of the tank.

https://youtu.be/Q5MH2gnyFH0

Sometimes it will also help to add fuel stabilizer to the tank. That way you won't have to drain the tank.
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Monday, November 8th, 2021 AT 6:10 AM
Tiny
DREWANDLIN
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  • 8 POSTS
Hey thanks, I'll be getting back with that car either today or tomorrow and if the common issues of fails to start it I'll get back with you. I will let you know regardles. Thank you
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Monday, November 8th, 2021 AT 9:46 AM
Tiny
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Sounds good. You are welcome.
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Monday, November 8th, 2021 AT 10:21 AM
Tiny
DREWANDLIN
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Tuesday morning I've just gotten back to the Sentra I got so far as draining the oil and it smells like gasoline. I know this isn't good but how bad is it?
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Tuesday, November 9th, 2021 AT 10:37 AM
Tiny
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It is possible that the injector seal had failed and got fuel in the engine. That might be why the oil level was so high.
Keep in mind that just because there is fuel in the oil does not mean it will need major repair. It all depends on the where the leak is coming from.
Best step would be to do the oil change as usual. Check for any fuel leak from the injector area.
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Tuesday, November 9th, 2021 AT 12:18 PM
Tiny
DREWANDLIN
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Thank you so much and for continuing. Do you think that a bad at fuel pressure regulator on this car could cause that problem? And if so, how would I test that the fuel pump is good?
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Tuesday, November 9th, 2021 AT 12:41 PM
Tiny
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Bad fuel pressure regulator can either not allow enough fuel or too much fuel into the engine.

When you turn the key to the on position, do you hear the fuel pump come on?

Check out this guide on how to test the regulator:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

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Tuesday, November 9th, 2021 AT 1:26 PM
Tiny
DREWANDLIN
  • MEMBER
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You still with me SQM? I took a break from that Nissan. I'll be back at it Tuesday I did get the oil changed to where it should be. The spark plugs were completely fouled. I put four new ones in and that's when I left. On Tuesday I'm going to check and see if it's getting spark and fuel and if it's not gone from there. I have a question: Everything I've read says check the compression with the engine warmed up. If you got no start, can you check it without starting it first or would I be wasting my time?
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Saturday, November 13th, 2021 AT 3:36 PM
Tiny
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Hello again,

It is ideal to check the compression when the engine is warm.
However even with a cold engine you can still check the compression to get an idea if that could be the issue. You might get a little lower but still should provide good information.
This engine compression should be between 167 PSI to 192 PSI. With the maximum variance between the lowest and highest cylinder should be less than 15 PSI.
So, if the compressions are 170, 175, 180, 178; then that variance is 180-170 = 10 PSI.

Here is a helpful guide on compression test:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-engine-compression

Let me what you find.
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Saturday, November 13th, 2021 AT 4:44 PM
Tiny
DREWANDLIN
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I'll let you know what happens with it Tuesday night or Wednesday.
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Saturday, November 13th, 2021 AT 6:21 PM
Tiny
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Sounds good.
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Sunday, November 14th, 2021 AT 8:03 AM
Tiny
DREWANDLIN
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All right I'm back. Hope your still with me on this SQM. Out of town unexpected for over a week I just got back to the Nissan yesterday I already put new plugs in it last week, so I decided to crank it and third or fourth try it started. It ran real ratty stalled after about 10 seconds same thing a couple more times started stalled, and then it ran for a while. Started every time after that and ran until I shut it off, but it runs really ratty. I mean any gas at all it'll stall. SQM, in your opinion what should my next diagnostic step be? I know there's a lot of things that could be doing this, but keep in mind when I first got it, I ran the ECU codes and got back p301 codes and fuel temperature sensor circuit codes and that would have been from 6 - 7 months ago when it was started last and is a persistent enough of a problem that it filled the crankcase half full of gasoline. I didn't have my code reader with me yesterday when I stopped by and saw it, but I will definitely take it with me today and erase the old codes or run a new code and of course, I will check the cylinder one coil and fuel injector and then, if they're both good and check out please bless me with what my next diagnostic step should be, so Great and Knowledgeable One.
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Tuesday, November 23rd, 2021 AT 2:21 AM
Tiny
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Did you get a chance to put any fuel additive in the tank?
It is possible to have bad gas. Running rough can be due to that. If you can drain all the fuel out and put fresh fuel in might be a good idea.
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Tuesday, November 23rd, 2021 AT 11:10 AM

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