The ABS light is on?

That's odd but if it's an intermittent it may be hard to find. One thing to do as I see this is a diesel is to check both batteries for condition including load test. Bad batteries with cause false codes otherwise wait until it becomes a hard or full time code. I know annoying you can also check connections as there may be a loose or maybe worn through wire. On my truck in winter I would have the same condition but it was usually snow getting on harness and pulling it down a little causing a similar problem

It is the pump motor related fault. Here is a video of the unit getting replaced.

https://youtu.be/lUotkKXG9dY

Also I would check the wheel speed sensor on the right front to make sure non of the wiring got damaged in the blow out.

Do you hear the pump run even with key off. There is a bulletin for this. The diagnostic process may require EBCM (abs module) separation from the motor, if it does not have a separate motor pigtail. It doesn't specify which do and which do not. The first thing I would do is clear it, drive it over 4 mph, and see if it resets. If it does, check the ABS 60A fuse in the under hood fuse block. If that is good, this would be the next step in the flow chart, and I am not sure if your scan tool is capable of activating functions;

Important: On some applications, it may be necessary to separate the EBCM from the BPMV in order to perform this test. Also, DTC C0268 may set when this test is performed.

Turn OFF the ignition.
Disconnect from the EBCM, the ABS pump motor pigtail connector. For systems which have no pump motor pigtail, it is necessary to separate the EBCM from the BPMV in order to gain access to the pump motor connector of the EBCM. Refer to Electronic Brake Control Module Replacement.
Use a connector adapter test kit in order to connect a test lamp between the ABS pump motor power and ground circuits at the pump motor connector of the EBCM.
Turn ON the ignition.
Use the scan tool in order to clear the DTCs.
Use the scan tool in order to perform an ABS Function Test.
Does DTC C0267 set?

If you can determine whether or not the system has a separate pump connector and let me know your findings, it will be a two wire connector with a large red, and black wire. The EBCM/BPMV are mounted on the inside of the left frame rail. The ground for the pump near the left front tire. I am not sure why this fault occurred after a right front blowout. Bear with me, I usually check the forum periodically through the day, and do most replies in evenings. I am done for this evening.

This video will help run and clear the codes

https://youtu.be/rTtAnsOlZU4

Please run this test and get back to us.

Cheers

Controller connectors are on the abs unit on frame drivers' side

Hello.

I do not think ABS warn related to cold weather, there are many symptoms that makes ABS warn appear. Problem can be from poor wiring connections, wheel speed sensors or its harness, relay for the ABS pump, the proper way to detect the problem to read the fault codes.
Please send me the fault codes then I can give you complete trouble shooting for your problem.
Thank you.

When the ABS warn appears again run the code reader and send us the fault code.
I'm interested to know what's the problem.

Chances are there is a broken wire or bad ABS sensor at one of the wheels. Have the computer scanned to see if there are any trouble codes related to the ABS system. Most parts stores will do it for free.

Let me know what you find.

Good afternoon,

When there is a fault in the ABS, the light will come on indicating a code is set for a failure.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/abs-warning-light-on-easy-repair-guide

It could be sensors or the pump but the code will lead us to a resolution.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/abs-wheel-speed-sensor-test

Take to a parts store and they will read the code for free for you. Once we know the code we can help you further.

Roy

Check the battery and connections first. It sounds like it ran out of battery power to keep systems up.

Roy

If it doesn't crank, the battery is probably run down. Measure the battery voltage and holler back. You might try charging it at a slow rate for an hour too, then see if it cranks.

`If u have proper voltage at the battery. Test the voltage to the starter. Try holding the key in crank position whyll some1 taps the starter with a hammer.

AHHH! Don't hit the starter, (except out of frustration). They use permanent magnets instead of field coils. They warn against hitting them in the training video because the glue can crack and let the magnets fall off. Then she's junk.

If you want to hit a starter, find a Ford.