Transmission wont engage

This sounds like the transmission gear range sensor has gone out so the transmission does no know what gear you are in.

If you have a small leak, the vehicle won't stop moving completely right away You may have something else wrong.

Here are the diagrams to show you how to check the fluid level.

Check out the diagrams (Below). Please run this test and get back to us.

These cars do not have a dipstick there is a plug on the side of the transmission check out the diagrams above. Also can you check to see if you have reverse lights? If not this makes me think the range sensor here is a guide to help you see what you are in for when doing the job.

Check out the diagrams (Below).

Hello,

I believe it was a shift solenoid that was shorted out. Here is a transmission wiring diagram (below) so you can do some testing to find out if this can be your problem.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

Please run this test and get back to us so we can continue helping you.

Cheers, Ken

You're going to have to crawl underneath and look for the source of the leak, but given the location of the puddle, I suspect the fix is going to be relatively minor. You're in the area where they normally run the steel lines to the transmission cooler. A lot of manufacturers have been ending those lines with short pieces of rubber hose, and quick-connect fittings that snap together quickly on the assembly line. That type of fitting has a rubber o-ring inside it that often shrinks and leaks, especially in cold weather. With some of those, the manufacturer had in mind that you must buy the entire line, all the way back to the transmission, to get the fitting. Some have repair kits that include just the rubber section and fitting. Use an air cut-off tool to cut the crimped band at the junction of the rubber and steel lines, then slide the rubber hose off. Slide the new hose onto the barbed end of the steel line, then hold it on with a regular hose clamp.

With some designs you can completely remove the rubber section of hose like I described, then you'll find both the end of the steel line and the fitting on the cooler have a barb. Slide on a new piece of hose rated for petroleum products and install a hose clamp at each end. Those clamps should not be right over the barbs as that can cause them to cut into the hose from the inside over time. Instead, place the clamp closer to the end of the rubber hose. The barb will seal to the hose, against fluid loss, and the clamp will run into the area of the barb to stop the hose from sliding off from the fluid pressure.

Happy to hear you solved it. Use 2CarPros anytime, we are here to help. Please tell a friend.

I'd get a second opinion from a transmission specialty shop. Anything you can present to them, they've run into it before. Of particular interest, automatic transmissions can be broken into two systems. There's the multiple clutch packs that transmit engine power to the wheels, and a system of valves and actuators that control those clutch packs. One clutch pack always is the first one to start slipping, and that only affects the gears that use that clutch. The vehicle will still move but you'll observe symptoms such as slipping. That's when a total rebuild is in order.

When the control system has a problem, multiple clutch packs won't be engaged, so the car may not move. The specialist can use a scanner to command the computer to turn the solenoids on and off that control those valves, to see what isn't working. The cause could be as simple a corroded connector terminal.

P0562 (System Voltage Low) is the code I'd be most concerned about. Transmissions is not one of my specialty areas, but electrical is. GM has a lot of charging system problems which will cause low system voltage when the vehicle has to run on just the battery, but there should be similar fault codes in other computers for the other systems. In particular, anti-lock brakes and air bag systems need a good, strong system voltage to be able to do their things. Those would be the first computers to detect low system voltage and set a fault code. Since they have not, I think we can rule out a charging system problem.

That leaves just the Transmission Computer that is seeing low voltage. Typical suspects would be corroded, arced, or pitted contacts in the transmission relay, (when one is used), or the computer is not developing the right voltage to send to one of its circuits. I have a strong suspicion this is going to be an electrical problem, and not a mechanical problem within the transmission.

Glad you could get it fixed, that kind of problem can be tough. Please use 2CarPros anytime we are here to help

Cheers!

When you shift the gears do the lights for the gear selector move and light up as well? Have you checked the fluid level? Here is a guide to help us get started.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/automatic-transmission-problems

Please run down this guide and report back

Cheers, Ken

Jordan Thompson, It does happen but in the above situations it was mainly electrical due to the way these transmissions are controlled. Normally if the pump goes out you will still have some warning and it will make noise. Now if a seal or something odd like the pump drive hub failing or the pump gear breaking there will be some noise as they fail because of the way the pump works. Do you have a particular problem like the above?