1993 Saturn SL2 5 SPD, tranny leak

Tiny
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Did you remove the key cylinder to see if it was that binding up or something else?Or did you just buy a new cylinder?Is the new cylinder already coded to the new key it came with?I would have the new cylinder coded to your old key. Also its been a few years since I replaced a quill seal/bearing the main thing is to be careful not to crack the bell housing when pressing it in and out. If your careful I don't see why you couldn't do it with a press and some press adapters.
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Sunday, June 19th, 2011 AT 2:32 AM
Tiny
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Well I figured out what was exactly wrong with the tranny, the exact same thing that happened to my brothers 94 sc2, a pin inside the tranny wore a hole in the bell housing therefore causing it to leak, my other brother that I am having helping with the car pulled the tranny out the bottom found this out. The top motor mount also broke causing the engine to fall breaking the throttle cable and a rusted ac line, but thats about all the damage. So as long as the engine and tranny are out I am going to be replacing timing chain, oil pan seal, valve cover gasket, possibly main bearing seal (it went out on my brothers car causing him to pull the engine a while ago) and replacing the tranny with a used one from a junk yard. But I will be putting the new seals that I ordered into the junk yard tranny upon bringing it home to ensure that it doesnt leak because of that. Does all this sound like a good plan? And do you have any suggestions or tips? Thanks for your time louie
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Wednesday, July 27th, 2011 AT 7:18 AM
Tiny
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If the top engine mount broke when you removed the transmission you probably didnt use a engine support. As far as your plan goes sounds good nothing wrond with replacing seals when the transmission is out. You can match up some pvc fittings to make axle seal installers etc thats my tip make sure you get a dead blow soft faced hammer to hammet on the pvc fitting and tap lightly.
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Friday, July 29th, 2011 AT 4:19 PM
Tiny
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So the hand tools of a pvc fitting and a deadblow will work to "press" the seals into the replacement tranny correct?
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Sunday, July 31st, 2011 AT 12:04 AM
Tiny
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Yes the pipe fitting slip joint on one side and threads on the other side.
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Sunday, July 31st, 2011 AT 12:19 AM
Tiny
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On the back of the motor there is a sensor right above and slightly to the left of the crankshaft position sensor, this sensor has 2 inputs/outputs for vaccumm lines, one leads to the air intake manifold and the other leads to another shorter line that is attached to the firewall. Both of them are off and I dont know which one goes to which line. I think this is the canister purge solenoid we discussed a while ago but I am not really positive. Can you tell me which hose goes on which particular position on the sensor? We inspected the timing chain and it still looked new yet and there is only 124 thousand miles on the car so we decided no to replace the timing chain at this time. We found a new way to lift the engine as well, we attached a 2x8 board to the roof rafters of the garage and used a chain and come a long to lift the engine, hopefully it will also work for purring the engine back in after we re attach the sub frame.
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Monday, August 1st, 2011 AT 1:04 AM
Tiny
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Yes thats the canister purge solenoid and it doesnt matter which hose goes to which nipple.I would never use a come along to lift the engine out I would rent a engine hoist. If you were just removing thr transmission you could have just dropped the subframe and took it out the bottom all you would have to do is support the engine. Thats how I take them. Out.
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Monday, August 1st, 2011 AT 1:10 AM
Tiny
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Yes that is how he removed the transmission but the engine ended up coming out with it somehow, I dont know exactly how all I know is the top motor mount broke when the jack he was using to support the engine slid out from under it, accidents happen and I am kinda short on funds to be renting an engine hoist, so the come along with a thicker chain works well for lifting the engine for now being as how it is after all only a 4 cyl engine and not a monster of a v8. It works well for lowering as well and has 2 hook ups with a pulley as a center connection so it works better than you would think for lifting in a pinch. Thanks for the info bout the canister purge solenoid louie.
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Monday, August 1st, 2011 AT 1:42 PM
Tiny
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Your welcome I see how you broke the engine mount you didnt use a engine support on top you used a floor jack on the bottom very dangerous especially considering what happened. Keep me posted.
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Monday, August 1st, 2011 AT 4:48 PM
Tiny
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Yes indeed dangerous, we have done it before but not with all but one mount removed, I was not present at the time it was being done being as how my brother is the one doing most of the work. He is rather gifted when it comes to fixing cars he just tries to take too many shortcuts, hence the broken motor mount. Thanks also for the past refferal to rock auto, their prices are insanely good even with shipping and needless to say they have gotten plenty of business from my brother and myself.
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Monday, August 1st, 2011 AT 8:09 PM
Tiny
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He won't be gifted for long taking short cuts like. Your welcome about the rockauto I have bought a lot of parts myself from them did they ever email you a 5 percent discount code from there?
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Monday, August 1st, 2011 AT 9:10 PM
Tiny
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So far no discount code. Shame shame because last week I placed an order totaling about $120.
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Monday, August 1st, 2011 AT 11:32 PM
Tiny
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Here is one that expires on july 24 you put in the how did you hear about us box.57637393242193
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Monday, August 1st, 2011 AT 11:41 PM
Tiny
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Better yet here is one that expires on sept 11th 62539003242193 they send me these codes all the time I guess I spend more there then you lol.
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Monday, August 1st, 2011 AT 11:44 PM
Tiny
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We got the k frame bolted back onto the car, tie rod ends installed, ball joints are in, valve cover gasket done, ac drier and radiator installed, and ignition switch installed, wheels were put back on and set on the ground. All in all progress was made so im satisfied for the day. Still have to replace oil pan seal, attach transmission find out where all the wires go and put the works back into the car.
Next question is when we put the engine back into the car, do we have to put the engine and tranny in at the same time or can we put the tranny in, pull it aside and then lower the engine in?
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Sunday, August 7th, 2011 AT 4:22 AM
Tiny
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On the manual transmissions I always put the engine and transmission in all together. You just set the chain on the hook so the transmission is slung downward let the transmission touch the frame and slide it over so the engine can come down. Also if you removed the radiator fan assembly goog if not take it out it gives you a lot more room.
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Monday, August 8th, 2011 AT 12:07 AM
Tiny
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Got the engine bolted onto 3 mounts to hold it in so we could get the car out of the garage it was halfway in, the come a long with the logging chain worked rather well for lowering the engine into place, granted we knew how big of a board to use with the proper bolts for mounting the logging chain. And I finally got a discount code from rock auto. Haha. One of the wires on the back of the motor we need to re attach to the wire it came off of, hopefully this should be it for fixing for a while, aside from the e brake arm that is ceased on one of the back calipers yet. After its all assembled I just need to take it in for an alignment and possible ac recharge if they are not too expencive.
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Tuesday, August 9th, 2011 AT 3:03 PM
Tiny
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You let the a/c charge out to remove the engine?I never do I zip tie the the a/c compressor to the radiator core support and remove the radiator fan assembly and that gives me plenty of room. Most of the time I have seen that roll pin in differential break and come thru the trans case like yours did in the automatics and manaul transmissions is from people spinning there tires in the ice or trying to rock there car out of there snow covered drive way. Its pretty common back east for that pin to break. But here in sunny california you really dont see that happen. Also the ebrake arms on the caliper freezing up really common back east. Hopefully it doesnt cause the brakes to drag I have seen that before.
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Tuesday, August 9th, 2011 AT 3:30 PM
Tiny
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When the engine dropped it broke an ac line off the radiator that was already severely corroded. And the caliper e brake arm is just really rusted, needs replacing. The ebrake still grips 1 wheel but I disconnected the cable from the rusted caliper as to not become a sitting duck.
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Tuesday, August 9th, 2011 AT 4:19 PM
Tiny
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Ok so we are almost finished with the assembly but there is a plug on the back of the motor underneath the knock sensor with a tan with black stripe wire leading to it. Im wondering what it is becase I had to re connect a segment of wire to it and the plug is now missing with a bare tan and black wire hanging there. Im wondering if you know what that particular plug is for. I looked in the haynes manual and the wiring diagrams are complicated to say the least and unclear. Hope you get back soon, thanks louie
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Wednesday, August 10th, 2011 AT 9:46 PM

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