Need help getting my Jeep started. Dont know where to start on the troubleshooting

Checking the condition of the battery is always first. Good clean connections are the first thing.

Is it a stick or automatic

Roy

Battery is good. Brand new.
Stick. 3 speed. V8

Thanks for the quick response.

If it wont crank, there is a clutch switch on the clutch pedal that will not allow the starter to engage till the clutch pedal is on the floor. Check that

Roy

NEGATIVE! NO CLUTCH SWITCH ON ANY CJs!

ARE YOU GOOD WITH WIRE DIAGRAMS?

I THINK WE'RE GONNA HAVE TO START WITH THE IGNITION SWITCH, OR MAYBE THE WIRING TO IT (I FEEL SURE, UNLESS THIS WAS A ONE OWNER, THINGS HAVE BEEN TAMPERED WITH OVER THE YEARS)

GONNA SEND YOU A LINK EXPLAINING THE IGNITION SWITCH AND "CALIBRATING" IT. THIS IS HARD TO REACH, BUT WITH MY HOMEMADE PICS, YOU SHOULD BE ABLE TO "FEEL" WHAT YOU CANNOT SEE!

https://www.2carpros.com/questions/1989-ford-f-250-remove-ignition

LET ME KNOW HOW THIS GOES/ OR NOT!

MORE WHERE THAT CAME FROM--I'VE HAD 6 CJ5s SINCE 1981, ALL MY PRIMARY DRIVERS, MANY MANUALS, WIRE DIAGRAMS, HOMEMADE PICS...HELPIN' THE CJs WAS MY PRIMARY REASON FOR ANSWERING HERE (INVESTIGATE OTHER CJ5 AND 7 ANSWERS I'VE GIVEN, IN THE 5 & 7 FORUMS)

I'LL HANG WITH YOU ALL THE WAY, AS LONG AS YOU RESPOND

DO YOU HAVE A HAYNES', CHILTON OR OTHER REPAIR MANUAL TO MAYBE SORTA HELP YOU ALONG? VOLTMETER? OTHER TOOLS? KNOW YOUR WAY AROUND YOUR RIG?

LET ME KNOW, THIS IS WHAT I LIVE FOR, KEEPS ME FROM GOING TO THE OTHER FORUMS WHEN I'M BORED!

YOUR TURN FELLOW JEEP FELLER!

THE MEDIC

Cj medevac, I appreciate the response. I read many of your posts and only signed up hoping that I could personally send you a question.
I do not have any diagrams etc. I am a electrician so I have any voltage meters you could think of. Even though cars are much different from houses, I have basic 12v knowledge. I am not home but plan on working on the jeep most of the day tomorrow. What do I do first with the ignition switch?

WELL NOW THAT I THINK ABOUT IT

LET'S GO TO THE SOLENOID AND MAKE SURE EVERYBODY IS HOOKED ON CORRECTLY

PAY PARTICULAR ATTENTION TO "S" AND "I" WIRES AND THE TERMINALS THEY HOOK TO---IF THEY ARE SWAPPED, IT WILL NOT CRANK!

YOU CAN ALSO CHECK TO SEE IF VOLTAGE IS CORRECT TO "S" WIRE, WHEN YOUR HELPER HOLDS THE KEY IN THE "START POSITION", AND DIES WHEN RELASED TO THE "ON POSITION"

SORTA GO TOWARDS THE MIDDLE OF THIS LINK

https://www.2carpros.com/questions/1992-ford-ranger-wont-start

IF THAT AIN'T CUTTING IT, LOOK AT THE 1ST PIC I GAVE YOU ABOVE (I'M SURE YOU KNOW, CLICKING ON IT WILL ENLARGE IT)

AT 10 O'CLOCK THERE ARE 2 NUTS, THIS HOLDS THE IGN SWITCH IN PLACE, IF YOU LOOSEN THEM, JUST ENOUGH TO SLIDE MR. SWITCH (A 7/16 STUBBY WRENCH IS GREAT FOR THIS!) THE SWITCH WILL SLIDE TOWARDS THE RADIATOR OR TOWARDS THE STEERING WHEEL...THIS IS THE "ADJUSTMENT" TO "CALIBRATE" TO THE KEY POSITIONING....IT MAY BE SLID TO FAR FORWARD, AND THE "L" SHAPED ROD (ALSO SEEN IN THE 1ST PICS), JUST CAN'T PUSH THE SWITCH ENOUGH TO ENGAGE "START".....KEY/ ROD TRAVEL RUNS OUT...YA?

WHILE YOU ARE IN THAT CONTORTED POSITION, DANGLING ON THE DRIVER DOOR FRAME, AND HEAD CRAMMED BETWEEN THE EMERGENCY BRAKE AND COLUMN (CURSING!) SEE IF YOUR CONNECTOR IS SNAPPED IN GOOD (MAYBE DO THAT 1ST!) SORRY, I'M USED TO DOING IT FOR EVERYBODY ELSE, I SELDOM HAVE TO EXPLAIN IT!

GO BACK TO MY 1ST LINK IN THE 1ST ANSWER, SEE IF IT MAKES SENSE ON SLIDING THE SWITCH ACCESSORIES---IF THERE IS NO RADIO, YOU MAY HAVE TO CALIBRATE FROM "ON"---OR @@@@@ DISCONNECT THE BATTERY!!!@@@@@@ HAVE YOUR ASSISTANT HOLD THE KEY AT "START" AND YOU PUSH THE SWITCH REARWARD (PUSHING THE SPRING LOADED-NESS IN THE SWITCH TOO. (BASICALLY BOTTOMING OUT THE SWITCH REARWARD, WHILE THE KEY IS HELD "STARTING"---AGAIN BATTERY DISCONNECTED TO DO THIS!YOU'LL GET THE HANG OF IT!

A MIRROR AND A GOOD LIGHT MAY HELP YOU SEE IT TO KNOW WHAT YOU GOTTA DO, BUT UNFORTUNATELY, YOU CANNOT LEAVE 'EM IN PLACE AND CRAM YOUR NOW BATTERED HANDS IN THERE---IT'S ALL FEEL!---SEVERAL BREAK TIMES--LOTS OF BAD WORDS, UNTIL IT CLICKS INTO YOUR HEAD!.......CHIROPRACTOR TOMORROW

YES, I KNOW I'M NOT A GOOD TEXT TEACHER---MAKE SENSE AT ALL??? REMEMBER MY 1ST PICS ARE OF A FORD PICK-UP, THE COLUMN IS DROPPABLE!

THE ONLY SURE FIRED EZ WAY TO DO THIS IS TO CUT A BIG OLE HOLE IN YOUR COWL!

THE MEDIC

GOTTA SORTA COME BACK HERE WITH YOUR RESPONSES!

I CHANGED MY EMAIL ADDRESS RECENTLY AND I'M NOT GETTING REPLIES BACK FROM OLDER POSTS.

SO HAPPENS WIFE AND I SHARED THE OLD ADDRESS, EZer TO MAINTAIN ONE, THAN 2. TILL SHE LET HER GROWN YOUNGINS ACCESS HER ACCOUNT (THEY HAVE THEIR OWN?) LAST STRAW WAS WHEN A DATING SERVICE FLOODED THE INCOMING MAIL (HER DAUGHTER DIDN'T WANT IT FLOODING HERS, 'CAUSE THEY WENT TO HER PHONE AS WELL!)

I FIGGERED, WHEN I CHANGED MY INFO HERE, ALL OF MY STUFF WOULD COME TO THE NEW ADDRESS. SITE IS STILL NEW. GLITCHES I RECKON!

SO ANYWAY STAY HERE!

THE MEDIC

Medic,
I tried to pull start my cj today. I hooked it up to my f150 and had my dad drive the jeep and attempt to crank it that way. The carburetor was blowing alot of air out of it. I removed the gas line from the fuel filter and put new gas in it. After a few pulls down the street, the old gas started pouring out of the line. I continued until new clean gas was coming out then reattached the fuel line. The exhaust manifolds are getting hot which I think means that I am getting a spark? So I have fuel running to my fuel filter and hopefully a spark. The engine kinda sounded like it wanted to start but wasnt. I also kept pouring gas into the carb hoping that would pop it off. Nothing. What direction should I troubleshoot next?

Also, I can not get the gear shifter to go into either 2nd or 3rd gear. Any help with that?

Thanks,
Nathan

Did my last question go through? I sent it about an hour ago and I dont see it on the site.

I guess not. Today I hooked my jeep up to my f150 and tried to pull start it. Got nothing but alot of air coming out of the carb. My dad was constantly trying to pour gas into the carb to jump start the engine but nothing. We drained the old gas and check the fuel filter. We removed the fuel line right before the fuel filter and gas is coming out when we pull the jeep. The engine is sounding like it kinda wants to start. Also, the exhaust manifolds are hot. Does that mean we are getting spark? I dont know which direction to go in next. I want to make sure the engine will run before dumping money into starters, solenoids, etc etc.

Also, Im having problems shifting the shifter into 2nd and 3rd gears. It only goes back and forth from first and reverse. Any help on that?

LET'S SORTA GET THIS SLOWED DOWN!

YOU ARE WANTING IT ALL TOO FAST!

LET'S BACK UP TO THE KEY THING. IS THAT FIXED NOW? WILL THE KEY TURN IT OVER?

IF YOU ARE JUST JUMPING THE SOLENOID, IS THE KEY "ON", TO GIVE IT IGNITION?

BEFORE WE START RIPPING STUFF OUT, LETS PULL A SPARK PLUG. PUT IT BACK INTO THE PLUG WIRE. GROUND THE BODY (NUT PART) OF THE PLUG TO A BRACKET OR SOMETHING ON THE ENGINE THAT WILL BE A GOOD GROUND. TURN THE ENGINE OVER. IS THE SPARK PLUG SPARKING AT THE ELECTRODE?

THIS ALONE, WILL LET US KNOW IF THE IGNITION SYSTEM WORKS. OTHER TESTING OF THE IGNITION PARTS MAY NOT BE NECESSARY.I CAN TALK YOU THRU ALL OF IT, IF NECESSARY.I HAVE SOME DECENT HOMEMADE PICS TOO

HERE'S THE BIG THING NOW!

WHAT IS THE HISTORY OF THIS JEEP. PLEASE, IN GREAT DETAIL!

HAVE MANY OTHERS MONKEYED WITH IT, SINCE IT LAST RAN?

I'LL GIVE YOU SOME OF THE INFO YOU WANT NOW

IF YOU START JUMPING AHEAD---YOU MAY COMPOUND THE PROBLEMS--MAKE THIS HARDER THAN IT NEEDS TO BE!

IF SOMEONE HAS SNATCHED THE DISTRIBUTOR OUT---EVEN IF IGNITION IS GOOD, IT MAY BE FIRING THE CYLINDERS AT THE WRONG TIME.I CAN TALK YOU THRU PUTTING IT BACK RIGHT. WITHOUT MESSING STUFF UP!

SPARK PLUG TEST 1ST!

HERE'S THE THINGS I WANT YOU TO CHECK.

PIC 1) DC VOLTS, POSITIVE SIDE OF THE COIL. RESULTS?

PIC 2) IS YOUR COIL LIKE THIS ONE, "FOR USE WITH EXTERNAL RESISTOR"

PIC 3) LOCATE TIMING MARK ON HARMONIC BALANCER, MARK WITH WHITE OUT, CHALK ETC. JUST SO HAPPENS THIS PIC SHOWS THE MARK, IN-LINE WITH THE TIMING NUMBERS---CLEAN THE NUMBERS SO YOU CAN SEE THEM (ALL OF THIS IS SEEN, BELOW THE NUT, AND SLIGHTLY LEFT) THIS IS A AMC JEEP 304 PIC

PIC 4--5--6) I RECENTLY COMPLETELY REBUILT MY TRANNY, I TOOK PICS OF MOST OF THE PROCESS----TREMEC T-150 3 SPEED, ON THE DINING ROOM TABLE. WE WILL MESS WITH YOURS SOON!

PIC 7--8) "MR. JEEP" MY '77 CJ5 258 W/ HOLLEY 4 BBL

DO YOU HAVE TUNING STUFF--DWELL/ TACH--TIMING LIGHT?

CAN YOU SEND PICS 3 FEET FROM THE ENGINE, SEVERAL?

AM I TOO BOSSY?

JUMPED AHEAD MYSELF---PAID FOR IT TOO!

LETS MAKE IT RUN 1ST---NOT DRIVE!

IF SOMETHING SIMPLE IN YOUR TRANNY IS INSTALLED WRONG, YOU MAY SHELL OUT THE TRANNY!

RUNNING AND NOT IN GEAR, IS OUR GOAL RIGHT NOW!

TELL ME MY ANSWERS

DON'T TELL ME THAT YOU STARTED JUMPING ALL OVER, DOING OTHER STUFF!

YOUR TURN

THE MEDIC

"PURPLE POWER", BRUSHES, AND A TOOTH BRUSH WILL MAKE YOUR ENGINE SPARKLE---AND KEEP YOU HANDS CLEAN, WHILE WORKING ON IT!

SPRAY W/ WATER TO GET IT OFF

KEEP IT OFF OF YOU EXTERIOR PAINT!

THE MEDIC

I will get you a better response later tonight with pictures and answers to your question. For now, I am having trouble finding the timing mark on the harmonic balancer. Directions to finding this?
Also, my key is turned to the starting position (my lights come on but no starting attempt). With my key in this position, should I get 12v to both sides of my solenoid? Because I am only getting 12v to one side of it. I am going to work on the ignition switch when I get home like you told me to do in your first answer. Then I will send you a better answer. I'm pretty sure you said my ignition has to be in the starting position for me to get proper voltage anywhere.
Thanks,
Nathan

SEE PIC

"A"--1 (POS BATT CABLE)--3--4 (ACCESSORIES) ARE CONSTANTLY BATTERY VOLTAGE (12+ VOLTS)---ALL IS DIRECTLY CONNECTED TO THE POS BATTERY CABLE

5 SHOULD GO TO THE KEY (IGN SWITCH)

5 AND C SHOULD GET 12 VOLTS WHEN KEY IS IN "START POSITION" (C IS DEAD, UNLESS 5 GIVES IT 12 VOLTS) ON THE PLASTIC "C" SHOULD BE IDENTIFIED AS "S" (START)

2 IS THE STARTER CABLE---B IS THE TERMINAL----DEAD UNTIL "C" GETS 12 VOLTS---THEN SOLENOID ENERGIZES AND "INTERNALLY CONNECTS" A AND BSTARTER SHOULD TURN OVER!

ON THE PLASTIC, D SHOULD BE IDENTIFIED AS "I" (IGN)----D AND 6 HAVE NO VOLTAGE UNTIL "C" (S TERMINAL) GETS 12 VOLTS (FROM KEY/ START)THIS WIRE "TEES" INTO THE COIL POSITIVE WIRE. IT IS USED TO "BOOST" THE VOLTS TO THE COIL (FULL BATT VOLTAGE), WHEN THE STARTER IS ROBBING POWER, WHILE TRYING TO START. D ACTUALLY DIES WHEN YOU LET GO OF THE KEY, BUT 6 (AND D) WILL STILL READ REDUCED VOLTAGE GOING TO THE COIL FROM "ON" ON THE IGN SWITCH (AROUND 7 VOLTS WITH KEY "ON") JUST SORTA BACK-FEEDS FROM THE "TEE" CONNECTION TO THE COIL. THIS IS NORMAL

7 IS JUST THE SOLENOID ATTACHED TO THE BODY (GROUND)

/////////////////////////

AS FAR AS YOUR KEY POSITION IN RELATION TO THE IGN SWITCH POSITION. SOUNDS LIKE THE IGN SWITCH NEEDS TO BE LOOSENED---SOMEONE HOLD THE KEY IN THE "START" POSITION---SLIDE IGN SWITCH REARWARD (ALSO PUSHING IT'S SPRING LOAD) TILL IT STOPS. TIGHTEN IGN SWITCH TO COLUMN. WITH BATTERY DISCONNECTED. TWEAKING MAY BE NECESSARY

///////////////////////////

MY PIC VIEW IS FROM THE PASSENGER SIDE---MAY BE LOOKING IN AT 45 DEGREE ANGLE AT THE CRANKSHAFT PULLEY--CLOSE TO THE BLOCK/ TIMING CHAIN COVER?---THIS IS SOMEONE ELSE'S JEEP---MINE IS A 258 6 CYL

I MADE THIS "PAINT" PIC LAST NIGHT, THOUGHT I SENT IT

KEEP ME INFORMED--NO UNDERSTANDY G.I? ASK QUESTIONS!

THE MEDIC

Ok. So I found a little switch on the side of the steering column and after flipping it, it let me turn the key past the point where I have been able to turn it. I will show that in the picture. Also, with the key in that position, I still only had 12v to the A terminal on the solenoid. No voltage going to either B, C, or D. The ignition could still not be where it needs to be but I did not understand the part about tightening it and loosening it.

1. 12v to A terminal of solenoid.
2. The coil does say "for use with external resistor"
3. I do not having timing stuff. Have a friend that is a mechanic that may let me use his for free though.
4. I can send pictures. See attached.
5. You are not being too bossy. I appreciate all the help. Im very very new at all this so pictures say a 1000 words.

I hope those pictures work.

YOU KEY LOOKS TO BE IN THE OFF POSITION---NEXT DIGIT BACK IS LOCK (LINE LINED UP)

YELLOW WIRE AT IGN SWITCH?

TRY THIS---WILL VERIFY IF SOLENOID IS GOOD

IN NEUTRAL AND CHOCKED WHEELS FRONT OF/ AND BEHIND

WITH 8-18 GAUGE WIRE, 2-3 FEET OF WIRE, JUMP BATTERY POS TO "C"---TOUCH IT MONETARILY! THE LONGER, THE MORE IT WILL TURN OVER

IF THAT WORKS---12 VOLTS NOT COMING THRU "5" FROM THE IGN SWITCHTHE WAY THE IGN SWITCH GETS IT'S 12V IS THRU "3" OR "4" OR MORE WIRES ON "A"----ARE THEY HOOKED TO "A"?

ARE YOU SURE "5 and 6" ARE NOT SWAPPED?CHECK WITH VOLTMETER KEY IN "START" AT BOTH WIRE ENDS AT THE SOLENOID

IF YES, YOUR PROBLEM IS FROM "5" TO THE IGNITION SWITCH OR FROM IGN SWITCH TO POWER

WANNA A CJMEDEVAC--O--MATIC 1979 WIRE DIAGRAM COLORED IN, FOR EASE IN WIRE FOLLOWING? MUCH OF THE WIRING IS THE SAME---FUSE BOX CHANGED. ARE YOU IN OR OUT?

IF IT MAKES YOU FEEL BETTER, YOUR JEEP IS A "6"---DON'T ASK ABOUT 1-5!

THE MEDIC

Will take a look at those pictures and print the diagrams when I get home. I was thinking of stopping at discount auto and picking up a remote start on my way home. If my ignition switch is bad, this remote start will replace the ignition switch correct? Then I will be able to figture out if my solenoid is still good correct?

ROGER

REMOTE START IS A MOMENTARY SWITCH W/ 2 LEADS

ONE GOES TO POS ON 12V BATTERY OR POS CABLE SOLENOID LUG ("A" ON MY PIC---OTHER GOES TO "C", ON MY PIC ("S" TERMINAL, PRINTED ON SOLENOID)

MOST SORTA RESEMBLE THE "BUTTON" A BOMBARDIER PUSHES TO DROP THE BOMB LOAD!

YOU CAN USE IT FOR OTHER TESTING TOO--JUST A MOMENTARY SWITCH!

LLLLLOOOOOOOOSSSSSTTTTT?

THE MEDIC

Ahh. Gotcha. Well it was 100 bucks at discount auto parts so ill just jump it with a screw driver:)