All Righty Then
You ain't come back yet.I got time to hunt and peck awhile. It's 2 in the morning here.
I'm gonna throw in explanations of your solenoid. This is gonna be a pick of Mr. Jeep's with YELLOW writing on it. Also one with Willy's solenoid with Numbers and letters on it.
Both are connected IDENTICAL, 'cept Willy's may have fewer accessory wires on the POSITIVE BATTERY CABLE SIDE of it.
I CAN SEND YOU A SIMPLIFIED WIRE DIAGRAM (THAT I CONSTRUCTED) OF WHAT YOU ARE DEALING WITH. IF YOU DESIRE.
YOU MAY SEE IT BETTER IN YOUR E-MAIL. SO IF YOU WANT TO, CLICK ON MY NAME AND SEND ME A MESSAGE CONTAINING IT (IN MESSAGES, IT WILL NOT BE BROADCAST WORLDWIDE!)
THE BIG REASON I DO NOT WANT YOU TO JUST CHANGE TO A DIFFERENT COIL IS, LATER YOU WILL FORGET (OR SOMEONE ELSE WILL) AND YOU WILL BE BACK IN THE SAME BOAT.'CORSE THAT COULD HAPPEN WITH THE BALLAST RESISTOR TOO! THAT'S WHY I SAID KEEP IT IN PLAIN SIGHT! SOME "COIL HOLDERS" HAVE A TAB WITH A HOLE STICKING OUT FROM THEM, YOU CAN BOLT IT ON, RIGHT BESIDE THE COIL, IF YOURS HAS ONE.
THE PICKS AND EXPLANATIONS WILL EXPLAIN WHAT THE STUFF IS ON THE SOLENOID. AND IF HOOKED UP EXACTLY AS MINE, YOU CAN "REMOTE START" OR "CHEAT THE START CIRCUIT" OR "BUMP THE ENGINE". USING A SCREWDRIVER. ACTUAL STARTING REQUIRES THE KEY TO BE IN THE "ON POSITION".
BUMPING, THE KEY NEEDS TO BE OFF AND THE "COIL TO DISTRIBUTOR CAP HIGH TENSION WIRE" REMOVED, TO PREVENT ACCIDENTAL STARTING. INSURE YOU ARE IN "NEUTRAL" OR "PARK" WITH THE TRANSMISSION.
AT LEAST YOU WILL KNOW WHAT EVERYTHING DOES. And WHEN AND NOT WHEN, IT SHOULD HAVE VOLTAGE.
I went back to another answer to get this. I Copied, Pasted, and put the pics back in.'Cause I hunt and peck slowly, and try to proofread several times before I submit.
IT WAS SORTA INTENDED FOR SOMEONE WITH A "NO START ISSUE". SOME OF THIS AT THE BEGINNING, IS FOR OTHER VEHICLES (NEWER TYPE). WHAT YOU NEED IS TOWARD THE END.
LOOK AT AND UNDERSTAND "I" TERMINAL---IT IS IMPORTANT AT START-UP!
OK the 1st part was sorta for other applications, but you will see what I intended for a CJ. Ask me questions, CJ fixin' is my Crusade at this site! I will assist you on a more personal, "HOLD YOUR HAND THRU IT ALL!" Level, than some of the other fellers. See other CJ5 & 7 questions in the forums, you will see the extent I go to assist CJs. THERE IS GOOD INFO YOU MIGHT NEED IN THERE, TOO!
CHECK YOUR FUSES!---YOUR OWNERS MANUAL MAY SHOW YOU LOCATIONS THAT YOU KNEW NOTHING ABOUT!
REMOVE AND REPLACE "SUSPECT" FUSES SEVERAL TIMES--THIS MAY SCRAPE OFF CORROSION AND GIVE THEM BETTER CONTACT!
THIS WILL WORK FOR YOU, PROVIDED THAT YOUR BATTERY IS GOOD---OR YOU CAN BE JUMPED OFF!
REMEMBER "NEW STUFF" CAN BE BAD TOO!
YOUR STARTER MAY BE BAD!
YOUR SOLENOID MAY BE BAD!
Try the stuff below (actions), Even if this isn't your system.
Yours may not look like this, but TAKE STUFF LOOSECLEANTIGHTEN WELLDO NOT JUST PASS IT OFF AS, "IT LOOKS GOOD".
Do not leave off where the Battery cables connect to the Battery clamps! (Not the posts, the "squeeze connections" on the wire) Do them too!
While you are at it, Both ends of Pos cable, Both ends of NEG cable.
If you still have the problem. Follow Battery Positive cable to find the Solenoid.
Clean and tighten the starter connection!
My stuff may be OVERKILL, but at least you will know what everything is and does.
Like my newly made "NELSOMATIC" stuff? I am cyber stupid, and did that! Keeps me from hunt and pecking so much!
Follow POS BATT CABLE, It will end up at MR. SOLENOID, yours may look different, but function is the same
Insure you are hooked up correctly and tight.
Make sure "S" WIRE is attached to the Solenoid
"OLD FORD TYPE" SOLENOID SYSTEM, YOUR ACCES, MAY VARY (This was really intended for Jeep CJ People!)
1) POSITIVE CABLE FROM BATTERY
2) OUT TO STARTER MOTOR
3) ON MY JEEP, THIS GOES TO THE ALTERNATOR
4) THIS FEEDS MY FUSEBOX (ALL OF MY ACCESSORIES)
5) "S" WIRE IS FROM KEY, 12V ONLY WHILE YOU ARE "CRANKING"
THIS WIRE ACTIVATES THE SOLENOID'S ELECTROMAGNET, WHICH IN TURN, CONNECTS---A and B INTERNALLY (ONLY THE 2 LARGE GAUGE CABLES CAN HANDLE THE AMPERAGE THE STARTER "PULLS").
WHEN THE SOLENOID IS ACTIVATED, IT THROWS 12V TO STARTER USING THE LARGE GAUGE CABLES (1) POS FROM BATT--THRU SOLENOID INTERNAL CONNECTION--(2) TO THE STARTER, WHILE KEY IS IN "CRANKING" MODE.
THIS IS THE TOTAL REASON FOR A SOLENOID, BECAUSE IT WOULD NOT BE PRACTICAL, TO RUN THE HEAVY CABLES TO AND FROM YOUR KEY SWITCH.
6)"I" WIRE, FEEDS COIL "FULL 12V", ONLY WHILE "CRANKING", AFTER YOU RELEASE THE KEY, THE COIL REVERTS BACK TO REDUCED VOLTAGE (resistor wire), SUPPLIED BY YOUR KEY IN THE "RUN" POSITION."I" DIES, when you release the key.
7) "SOLENOID MOUNT" [BODY GROUND], UNIT MUST HAVE A GOOD GROUND (BATT. TO ENGINE, ENGINE TO FRAME, FRAME TO BODY [ALL MUST CONNECT, SOMEHOW. But BATTERY to ENGINE 1st!] )
(3 and 4, ON MY 1946 WILLYS JEEP) ARE FUSABLE LINKS, ALL ARE NOT MARKED, MY #3 IS, #4 IS NOT. ITS SORT OF A "WIRE" FUSE.
IF THEY ARE GOOD, TUGGING ON THEM WILL BE JUST LIKE A WIRE, WHEN THEY ARE "BURNED UP", THEY WILL STRETCH OUT LKE A RUBBER BAND.
If your SOLENOID is good---Just not getting a "Signal" from the Key--We can test that too! (Then you will know which direction to chase this problem. Toward the key! [Ignition switch])
"S" is the wire that activates the Solenoid----we can sorta cheat it!
Regardless what you do to cheat it, You are suppling 12 VOLTS to the "S"('s) terminal on the solenoid. This is momentary as if you are cranking with the key
STAY CLEAR OF MOVING PARTS!IN PARK--OR EMERGENCY BRAKE ON!
I prefer a "Remote Starter Switch"
A Jumper wire momentarily touched or a Screwdriver touching POS BATTERY or POS BATTERY CABLE to the "S" terminal will by-pass the wire from the key
This will for sure let you know whether its a Solenoid problem or a Key ( ignition switch not delivering 12 Volts)
This will start your rig if your key is in the "ON" Position
IF YOU HAVE A CJ 5 OR CJ 7---YOUR WIRES SHOULD BE HOOKED UP, EXACTLY AS MINE ARE, IN THE PICS!
JEEP CJ GUYS!--If you changed your coil and did not get the one that says, "FOR USE WITH EXTERNAL RESISTOR ONLY". You NEED TO GET THAT ONE! You have just "DOUBLED" your resistance (w/ one with a internal resistor), and DO NOT HAVE ENOUGH VOLTS TO MAKE IT FIRE! (Your resistor is a "RESISTANCE WIRE" going to the coil already!)
Please Reply, Good or Bad
I WILL RE-EXPLAIN ANYTHING, DIFFERENTLY, IF YOU WANT ME TOO!
I'M HERE TO HELP, THIS IS MY HOBBY, I AM A MEMBER HERE, JUST LIKE YOU!
YOUR TURN. Now it's 3 in the morning!
Images (Click to enlarge)
Sunday, February 13th, 2011 AT 7:56 AM