Yellow Fluid Puking

Tiny
6.0YOUNEVERKNOW
  • MEMBER
  • 2007 FORD F-350
  • 6.0L
  • V8
  • TURBO
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 169,454 MILES
Hello everyone I have a major issue and I can't figure it out for the life of me. It started with this grinding/creaking. Will post video which is my first time ever hearing it and had to record because I figured it wouldn't do it again. (It hasn't of course :/ which makes me more nervous) it's about 4 days after that video (today)
So after that happened I popped hood noticed brake lines and a coolant line was a lil damp.
Cleaned them up drove around and nothing. No leaks/noises

Drove the next morning and noticed a squeak almost like a sway bar squeak which I have noticed since I got the truck it is on a 12"lift on 26rims so normal.

But this squeak got louder from time to time and wouldn't be constant. Would go away for 10 min and come back for 5 seconds then go away for 10min. But each time it came back it keeps getting louder hence noticed not the swaybar squeaking as it was way too loud.
Get to my job and looked underneath and there is yellow fluid everywhere on driver side. It's puking fluid I tried to diagnose what fluid it is but DAMN NEAR IMPOSSIBLE and I refuse to put the shit in my mouth you weirdos. Thought it was coolant but has oily feel so I thought brake fluid but not a single trace of a smell. But it is puking right above the drive side cross membrane where it starts to dropp down and steering gearbox thats bolted on frame.


Was told it was
Brake booster
Steering gearbox
Steering pump
Waterpump
Broken lines
Or a cracked Y attached to coolant reservoir


please help thats too much to replace.

Truck is low on coolant only but again it feels oily and truck doesn't have blown gaskets.
I do leave coolant cap unscrewed enough to release pressure so I don't blow heads which is why it is usually low because it seeps out as fluid rises while driving.
Tuesday, February 21st, 2023 AT 5:19 AM

4 Replies

Tiny
BRENDON S
  • MECHANIC
  • 653 POSTS
Hello,

Send me your 17-digit VIN, so I can use it to look up your exact vehicle so I can get exact info for your vehicle.

The yellow is definitely coolant. Ford uses a yellow coolant, and it will feel oily.

I am pretty certain there is a coolant pipe that rots out above or around the gearbox that would cause this type of situation.

When it gets on rubber components, like sway bar links, bushing, things like that it will definitely cause them to squeak. By giving me your VIN, I can get the complete information on your vehicle, and we can figure it out from there.

I'll help you any way that I can.

Thank you,
Brendon
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Wednesday, February 22nd, 2023 AT 6:24 PM
Tiny
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Is the VIN for the vehicle. I apologize for late response I work very long hours 7 days a week.
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Friday, February 24th, 2023 AT 7:37 PM
Tiny
6.0YOUNEVERKNOW
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
I have looked everywhere above the gearbox and the only thing I could seem to find that could be it is the Y pipe on the degas bottle that has hoses connected to it. I saw fluid piled up on the ring of the Y and the hose connected to it runs straight above gearbox and brake lines. But again, I cleaned the engine bay with degreaser and when I drive not half a mile then stop and check and everywhere is covered in fluid.
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Friday, February 24th, 2023 AT 7:43 PM
Tiny
BRENDON S
  • MECHANIC
  • 653 POSTS
Hello,

Do you mind if I ask why you drive around with the coolant cap loose?

What is the Temp gauge reading when warmed up?

How long have you owned this vehicle and do you know the brand of lift that is in it?

There should be a massive arm on each side of the truck behind the front axle. This should have multiple grease fittings or zerk fittings. I would find these and grease all of them every 3-5k miles.

If you leave the coolant cap unscrewed the cooling system can't build pressure. If it can't build pressure the coolant will boil, fill the system with air and will not be able to cool the engine effectively. It will also puke out the top of the reservoir and get everywhere.

Keeping the coolant cap tight will ensure your cooling system will be effective at removing the heat from your engine. If there is too much pressure the cap will release at a certain pressure, usually around 13 psi, and the coolant will go through the overflow hose.

Sometimes this cap can become faulty and allow too much pressure to build in the system. This will cause leaks and I have seen it blow a radiator hose right off.

Here is the Motorcraft part number for a new cap. Part number: 9C3Z8101B.

My advice is to fill the system cold to where it should be and put a new cap on it. The cap should be around $15. Don't get a universal one, get the Motorcraft one from ford so it is made for your exact system as it is set for a specific pressure.

If you think the plastic "Y" is leaking I got the part number for that for you.
Part number: 5C3Z8075CB
I have added a picture for you as well. Since it is plastic, it is definitely a good possibility that's where it is leaking.

Coolant on rubber components can definitely make them squeak. Plus unfortunately sometimes the wrong people put lifts in vehicles and they are not put in the right way. Not saying this is your issue but we won’t rule it out for now.

Let’s tackle the coolant leak and go from there as you may have a few issues going on.

Something to note is this vehicle has a hydraulic roller cam. So, the lifters that ride on the camshaft have little wheels on them. They also sit in a guide and can sometimes turn and the wheel will drag sideways on the cam. It will make a squeaking noise as well and can sound like it’s coming from a different area. We will keep that on the back burner for now as well.

I want to get your cooling system running properly to make sure the engine is not overheating from excessive engine wear and we can rule out any issues with that entire system.

Let’s do some diagnostics and see what we come up with.

Best way to find a coolant leak is with a pressure tester. It can be rented at most local auto parts stores and is very easy to use. (I will add a picture of one for you).

Clean all the coolant off the motor. Then make sure to fill the coolant to the proper level squeezing the hoses to get the air out.

Engine degreaser works but makes a mess. I find brake clean and a rag works best.

Now attach the tester to where the cap goes. Use pliers to pinch the overflow so you don't lose pressure. (I have added a picture of some hose pliers that won’t damage the hose. I suggest getting a pair.)

Pump the system up to pressurize it to what is listed on the radiator cap, usually 13-16psi. If there is no listing 16 psi is good enough but you can go a little higher if you need too just be careful.

It should hold at the pressure you pump it up to and the hoses should be tight.

Note if it isn't holding pressure at all either the tester isn't connected properly and is leaking or you’re losing it through the reservoir overflow hose. If it is bleeding off slowly then there is a leak somewhere.

Now take a light and look at the entire cooling system and see if you can see a leak. All pipes, hoses, thermostat, water pump etc. Especially on the Driver's side.

This test allows you to somewhat control the leak so that it can be found before the entire engine bay is covered in fluid.

Also, do this test with the engine off and cold.

If you have any questions or I can help in any way just reply back.

Thank you,
Brendon
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Saturday, February 25th, 2023 AT 11:45 AM

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