Engine shut off while driving will not start

No, are you sure you had a good ground on your voltmeter? Those fuses are supposed to be hot all the time from the battery.

And other fuses in that PDC do have power, so the voltmeter ground is okay?
If so, then that is your problem, those two fuses are not getting power. If they all are not getting power and you are sure the ground is okay, check the main feed to that PDC. If some fuses do have power but just not those two or even a few more, then the problem is inside that PDC and could be something shorted out inside it, maybe melted, rusted, etc.
If you could remove it and take it apart, you should be able to see what is going on inside it and it may be obvious, or you could test it with an ohmmeter once it is apart, from the main lug to those two fuse spots.

Most them if not all of them. I am not at my PC now to look up the wiring diagram I am on a tablet. But I do believe they are all hot all the time.

Okay, if all them all not hot check for voltage first at the main lug that feeds that entire box.

No, what about those other fuses, the #16 and #26, in that PDC? Now for those the key does have to be on run, because it is the ASD relay that powers those.
So there were some in there that were not hot all the time.

Okay.

Did you remember to turn the key to run when checking those #16 and #26? If yes, than replace that ASD relay.

Do you have voltage at them fuses #16 and #26 now with the key on run, after swapping in a asd relay?

Ok, I don't believe the fuel pump relay will work until the pcm gets it's power from that asd relay and then fuses #16 and #26, so there is a dark blue/yellow wire coming off that asd relay that goes to pin #3 of the pcm. The pcm has to ground this wire in order to activate that asd relay, so let's ground this wire and turn the key to run and see if that asd relay activates, then powers them fuses 316 and #26 and also now power the fuel pump relay and the fuel pump.
If so, then make sure the connector at the pcm is good and tight. If it is you might be looking at a bad pcm, but first disconnect each end of that dark blue/yellow wire and using on ohmmeter, make sure it is ok. Ballpark ohms is 5 ohms. It should be lessor equal to 5 ohms. If it's more the wire is bad. If it's good, also make sure it isn't shorted to ground so place one end of the ohmmeter on that wire, anywhere, then the other ohmmeter test lead on a good metal ground or the negative battery post, if it will reach and it should read infinity or 1 on some digital ohmmeters. I means infinity.
If it reads anything at all, then it's shorted to ground. If so, replace that wire with the same gauge, color and length. If it comes down to a possible bad pcm, you should at least retrieve the trouble codes first before replacing and programming the pcm.

No on a switch reset.