Will not run gets to 160 and shuts off

Tiny
T-SMITH
  • MEMBER
  • 1992 CHEVROLET CAMARO
  • 5.7L
  • V8
  • RWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 47,000 MILES
I have changed all the sensors in the car and put a brand-new distributor in it and put new plugs and wires in it and a computer. It is acting like it not getting fuel. I put a new fuel pump and filter in it has good fuel pressure, but when it gets to that point it will not start back unless you spray starting fluid in it and when you stop it shuts off.
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Saturday, July 15th, 2017 AT 8:22 PM

26 Replies

Tiny
KEN
  • ADMIN
Hello,

Lets check the injector pulse to see if the computer is opening the fuel injectors.

Here is a guide that will help you with the test.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-a-fuel-injector

Please let us know what happens, we are interested to see what it is.

Cheers, Ken
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Monday, July 17th, 2017 AT 1:00 PM
Tiny
T-SMITH
  • MEMBER
It's not the computer I've changed it. I checked the injectors and I had 4 bad ones they would work good into they get hot and quit but I still don't know if this will fix my problem I got brand new ones I haven't installed them yet but will be soon keep thinking of anything else that could make it do this
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Wednesday, July 19th, 2017 AT 6:41 PM
Tiny
KEN
  • ADMIN
Please let us know what happens.

Cheers, Ken
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Thursday, July 20th, 2017 AT 9:47 AM
Tiny
T-SMITH
  • MEMBER
It's running now thank god but when you give it a lot of gas it bogs down and won't take it I think it's the Throttle position sensor do you know how to reset it or if that's even it?
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Sunday, July 23rd, 2017 AT 11:14 PM
Tiny
KEN
  • ADMIN
I would check two things first is to run the codes, next is to check the catalytic converter.

Here are a couple of guides to show you how to do the job.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/buick-cadillac-chevy-gmc-oldsmobile-pontiac-gm-1983-1995-obd1-code-definitions-and-retrieval-method

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-a-catalytic-converter

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-has-low-power-output

Please let us know what you find.

Cheers, Ken
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Monday, July 24th, 2017 AT 3:40 PM
Tiny
T-SMITH
  • MEMBER
It don't have catalytic converters they took them off before I got the car they got it where it's true dual exhaust and I would run the codes but it's not giving any codes. I set the throttle position sensor at 0.540 volts because that's where it's supposed to be at I think I am pretty sure it is but that didn't change a thing
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Monday, July 24th, 2017 AT 5:16 PM
Tiny
KEN
  • ADMIN
It is starting to sound like the coolant temperature sensor gets warm then shorts out. Here is a guide to show you what you are in for when changing the sensor.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/coolant-temperature-sensor-cts-replacement

Please let us know what happens.

Cheers, Ken
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Tuesday, July 25th, 2017 AT 11:32 AM
Tiny
T-SMITH
  • MEMBER
I have already changed that I have changed all the sensors and it's still doing the same when I give it gas slow it goes pretty good but when you give it a lot it bogs and the rpm pegs out
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Wednesday, July 26th, 2017 AT 11:57 AM
Tiny
KEN
  • ADMIN
So the engine revs but the car doesn't go?
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Thursday, July 27th, 2017 AT 5:23 PM
Tiny
T-SMITH
  • MEMBER
Yeah when you get past 3500 rpm it starts sputtering and back firing bad it does it every time I've put new injectors clean the throttlebody and put all new sensors in it including a distributor and a coil pack wires and plugs
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Thursday, July 27th, 2017 AT 5:31 PM
Tiny
T-SMITH
  • MEMBER
If I can send you a video it would be easier to show you what's going on
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Thursday, July 27th, 2017 AT 5:34 PM
Tiny
KEN
  • ADMIN
Yep that would be great. Just post the link and I will take a look.
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Friday, July 28th, 2017 AT 10:25 AM
Tiny
T-SMITH
  • MEMBER
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=1pV0DKecpng

I did gap the plugs too and made sure every wire was connected and it has a new map sensor it's also got brand new vacuum lines so there is no vacuum leaks
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Friday, July 28th, 2017 AT 12:47 PM
Tiny
KEN
  • ADMIN
Thank you, I wish everyone could upload a video as you have it sure helps. I would remove the valve covers and using a flashlight inspect all of the valve springs I think one is broken not closing the valve at higher RPM. Also I would replace the ignition coil and make sure the ground strap is int he distributor cap. Please take a picture once the coil is out so I can make sure the ground strap is in place.

Please let us know what happens.

Cheers, Ken
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Saturday, July 29th, 2017 AT 10:54 AM
Tiny
T-SMITH
  • MEMBER
What ground are you talking about I replaced the coil pack with a msd one and when I took the old one off there wasn't any ground strap on it
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Saturday, July 29th, 2017 AT 11:36 AM
Tiny
KEN
  • ADMIN
There is a small ground strap that goes inside of the cap and over to the coil. Can you take a picture and upload it with the coil out? I will let you know if it is in there if not for sure is your problem
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Saturday, July 29th, 2017 AT 8:21 PM
Tiny
T-SMITH
  • MEMBER
I do not see no ground strap
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Sunday, July 30th, 2017 AT 12:22 AM
Tiny
T-SMITH
  • MEMBER
Here it is
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Sunday, July 30th, 2017 AT 12:25 AM
Tiny
T-SMITH
  • MEMBER
I've checked the driver side valve springs they look good I will check the other ones tomorrow
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Sunday, July 30th, 2017 AT 12:37 AM
Tiny
KEN
  • ADMIN
Okay not the ignition system I was thinking of. Disadvantage of not being there. It could be the coil itself do you have the stock one? Also check the cap and rotor look for burn marks under the rotor. The ignition might be saturating.

Please let us know what happens.

Cheers, Ken
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Sunday, July 30th, 2017 AT 7:15 PM

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