My engine will not idle?

Tiny
TWINKIEDELIGHT05
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  • 14 POSTS
But when I baught the truck at the end of winter. My fiance put a new transmission in it and noticted that it didn't have a fuel filter hooked up. They could get off so the old owner ran a line around it. He also replaced the fuel sending unit and the gas tank
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Saturday, January 30th, 2021 AT 8:51 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JAMESWIA
  • MEMBER
  • 9 POSTS
Your description of the problem is a little odd. You say the eng. Is getting too much fuel but your depressing the accelerator?
Lets start with the basics. You have an older vehicle with high miles. When was the last time you had the fuel system serviced. (Fuel filter replacement?, Fuel injector / injection cleaning?, Throttle body cleaning?) What type of parts/service have you had done?
Also, ask yourself when does this problem occur? Does it happen only at idle, cruise, under load (climbing hill), or all the time? Is there any smoke from the tailpipe? (Black, white, bluish) Does the end of the tailpipe show a lot of carbon buildup? Is there a heavy gas smell in the eng. Area? When driving, does the vehicle fell sluggish?
Note: If your using a lot of gas and there is no smoke ect. Check your oil level and condition to ensure that fuel is not leaking into the crankcase.
Try to pinpoint your problem with these questions and it will be easier to answer.
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Saturday, January 30th, 2021 AT 8:51 AM (Merged)
Tiny
TWINKIEDELIGHT05
  • MEMBER
  • 14 POSTS
My brother said last night when I took it and drove it last night it acts like its starving for gas. The truck runs driver at idle or in park or in nuetral its just when you put the truck under a load and you go to take off it hesitates like its not getting enough fuel. Now if your just cruising down the the expressway at 70. It will not do it in less you push down on the gas to give it more gas to go. We replaced the fuel filter awhile ago, put new spark plugs in it yesturday and also replaced the o2 senser and the temperature senser. The service that i've had done is. They had the bit computer on it at the martin chevetrly and it only read o2 senser and the map senser. They both were replaced. Thats it. The smoke coming out of tailpipe is white. And yes the vehicle does feel sluggish when you driving it. Thats what we're trying to fix.
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Saturday, January 30th, 2021 AT 8:51 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JAMESWIA
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Sorry about the earlier post. For some odd reason, all your posts where not loading.

Lets start with the obvious. All fuel system require a working fuel filter to prevent clogging/contamination. If you bought the vehicle used and the previous owner bypassed the fuel filter, you can expect fuel system contamination. Is there a functioning fuel filter on the vehicle now? Are all the fuel lines ok? (No kinks or physical damage.) With a functioning fuel filter is the fuel pressure and supply ok? Does the fuel system maintain fuel pressure after the vehicle is turned off? (Is the fuel pump bleeding back?) If yes, then you can concentrate on the eng. Area fuel components.
Note: sometimes fuel pumps may have an internal failure that only shows up under load (climbing hill ) conditions. If everything checks out and problem only occurs under load, expect the pump to be the failure.
The fuel pressure regulator does not tend to clog. It will however leak or stick. Inspect it for external leaks and remove its vacuum line for signs of internal leakage.
The fuel rails should appear undamaged and show no signs of cracks or external leaks.
The history of the vehicle and your problem description is most likely caused by restricted injector(s). You can pay to have them cleaned. This is not always possible, especially if the vehicle was run for an extended period of time without a fuel filter. The injector(s) restriction is just too great. You may have to have them replaced. In your case, make sure the fuel system/lines are flushed to prevent the new injector(s) from being damaged by dirt from the lack of a fuel filter.
Note: intake/exhaust gasket problems will usually show up during a eng. Vacuum test. If the problem turns out to be injectors. The injector job time overlaps with intake gasket replacement time.
Lastly, your repairing facility/tech is not helping you out by not picking up on something so obvious. If they know all the info that appears in this posting and still can't pinpoint the problem. Its time to look for a new repair facility/tech.
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Saturday, January 30th, 2021 AT 8:51 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JAMESWIA
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  • 9 POSTS
After reading your last post. It sounds like you definitely what to concentrate on having the injection system cleaned/flushed. Again, you may have to have the injectors replaced.
Fuel pump supply/pressure issues can show up as hesitation or sluggishness. (Mostly under load.) I suggest, based on the history of the vehicle, that you try the fuel injection cleaning first.
You stated that the tailpipe shows signs of white smoke. White smoke from a tailpipe is bad. You need to make sure that the white smoke is constant at all vehicle temps and ambient (outside) temps. Not just white vapor at early morning start up.
If there is constant white smoke at all times and temps, then the vehicle is burning/consuming eng. Coolant. The vehicle being a Chevy Blazer. This is most likely from leaking intake gaskets. Check for signs of coolant leakage external to the intake. If no signs of external leakage, check oil for signs of coolant/oil intermix. Again, intake gaskets replacement and fuel injectors have overlapping times. Don't pay twice.
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Saturday, January 30th, 2021 AT 8:51 AM (Merged)
Tiny
93BLAZERDUDE
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
  • 1993 CHEVROLET BLAZER
  • 4.3L
  • V6
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 253,015 MILES
I have a 1993 S10 Blazer 4.3L 262 ci MFI vortec. I did an oil change and now the SUV is acting up. It tries to shut off when idling, turning AC/heat, and when braking. When I accelerate it makes a weird noise if the gears drop down. For example, the gear is in third then drops to second under a little harder acceleration. The sound is not consistent with engine rpm. It comes at a set time. Like every one second it makes this noise. It does not sound like a knock. Sounds like a very soft pop that is faint in the engine bay. I was hoping you could get me some suggestions on what it may be. TIA

I should also add that I have had my check engine light on for about two months. The codes are for IAC problem or error and knock sensor error. I have also been reading on some websites and I am thinking it could be the EGR valve?
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Monday, March 29th, 2021 AT 12:10 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
Good afternoon,

What are the exact code numbers? Once I know them, I can get you more information on those issues.

Yes, the EGR valve is a very common issue for this. The valve does not fail but what happens is a chunk of carbon gets on the pindle for the valve keeping it open and creating a large vacuum leak which leads to stalling.

I would remove the valve and inspect the under portion for a piece of carbon.

Roy

REMOVAL
- Disconnect electrical connector.
- Remove valve to flange attaching bolts.
- Remove Linear EGR valve and gasket.
- Discard gasket.

INSTALLATION
- Install Linear EGR valve and a new gasket.
- Install valve to flange attaching bolts. Tighten to 24 N-m (17 lb. Ft.).
- Connect electrical connector.
- Use a bidirectional scanner to confirm that system is functional.
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Monday, March 29th, 2021 AT 12:10 PM (Merged)
Tiny
93BLAZERDUDE
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
The codes are code 35 and code 43. Obd 1. I will look at the EGR valve and clean it. I was leaning towards that or the IAC valve. I used a couple of additives recently, too. Royal max purple in the gas tank and seafoam in the intake manifold.
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Monday, March 29th, 2021 AT 12:10 PM (Merged)
Tiny
93BLAZERDUDE
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I appreciate the response!
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Monday, March 29th, 2021 AT 12:10 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
No problem, glad to help.

The additives have no effect.

Remove the valve and check it for chinks of carbon. If that is it, reinstall and see if it idles good. If that was the case and the other codes are related, the light will go out on its own.

Roy

35

Circuit Description:
The control module controls engine idle speed with the IAC valve. To increase idle speed, the control module moves the IAC valve away from it's seat, allowing more air to pass by the throttle bore. To decrease speed, it extends the IAC valve toward it's seat, reducing bypass air flow. A Tech 1 "Scan" tool will read the control module commands to the IAC valve in counts. The higher the counts, the more air bypassed (higher idle). The lower the counts, the less air bypassed (lower idle).

Test Description:
Number(s) below refer to circled number(s) on the diagnostic chart.

1. The IAC tester is used to extend and retract the IAC valve. Valve movement is verified by an engine speed change. If no change in engine speed occurs, the valve can be retested when removed from the throttle body.

2. This step checks the quality of the IAC movement in Step 1. Between 700 rpm and about 1500 rpm, the engine speed should change smoothly with each flash of the tester light in both extend and retract. If the IAC valve is retracted beyond the control range (about 1500 rpm), it may take many flashes in the extend position before engine speed will begin to drop. This is normal on certain engines, fully extending the IAC may cause engine stall. This may be normal.

3. Steps 1 and 2 verified proper IAC valve operation while this step checks the IAC circuits. Each lamp on the node light should flash red and green while the IAC valve is cycled. While the sequence of color is not important if either light is "OFF" or does not flash red and green, check the circuits for faults, beginning with poor terminal contacts.

IAC VALVE RESET PROCEDURE:
- Disconnect negative battery cable for 10 seconds.
- Start and run engine for 5 seconds.
- Ignition "OFF" for 10 seconds.

IAC VALVE RESET PROCEDURE (with Scan Tool):
- With Scan Tool, enter 10K mode.
- Raise engine speed to 2000 RPM for 5 seconds.
- Lower engine speed, proper engine speed should be obtained. Diagnostic Aids:
A slow, unstable, or fast idle may be caused by a non-IAC system problem that cannot be overcome by the IAC valve. Out of control range IAC Tech 1 "Scan" tool counts will be above 60 if idle is too low, and zero counts if idle is too high. The following checks should be made to repair a non-IAC system problem.

- Vacuum Leak (High Idle) - If idle is too high, stop the engine. Fully extend (low) IAC with tester. Start engine. If idle speed is above 800 rpm, locate and correct vacuum leak including PCV system. Also cheek for binding of throttle blade or linkage.

- System too lean (High Air/Fuel Ratio) - The idle speed may be too high or too low. Engine speed may vary up and down and disconnecting the IAC valve does not help. DTC 44 may be set "Scan" 02 voltage will be less than 300 mV (.3 volt). Check for low regulated fuel pressure water in the fuel or a restricted injector.

- System too rich (Low Air/Fuel Ratio), - The idle speed will be too low. "Scan" tool IAC counts will usually be above 80. System is obviously rich and may exhibit black exhaust smoke. Tech 1 "Scan" tool 02 voltage will be fixed above 800 mV (.8 volt). Check for high fuel pressure, leaking or sticking injector. Silicone contaminated 02 sensors "Scan" voltage will be slow to respond.

- Crankcase ventilation valve - An incorrect or faulty crankcase ventilation valve may result in an incorrect idle speed. See: Computers and Control Systems > Symptom Related Diagnostic Procedures > Rough, Unstable, or Incorrect Idle, Stalling

- Throttle body - Remove IAC and inspect bore for foreign material. See: Computers and Control Systems > Symptom Related Diagnostic Procedures > Rough, Unstable, or Incorrect Idle, Stalling

- IAC valve electrical connections - IAC valve connections should be carefully checked for proper contact.

- A/C Compressor - Refer to "A/C Diagnosis" if circuit is shorted to ground. If the relay is faulty, idle problem may exist. See: Computers and Control Systems > Symptom Related Diagnostic Procedures > Rough, Unstable, or Incorrect Idle, Stalling

- If intermittent poor driveability symptoms are resolved by disconnecting the IAC, carefully recheck connections, valve terminal resistance, or replace IAC.

43

Circuit Description:
The DTC 43 circuit consists of two knock sensors with one wire that is spliced together and goes directly to the PCM. There are two DTC 43 cheeks performed by the PCM. One check consists on monitoring CKT 496 for a voltage that is above 0.63 volts and below 3.0 volts.

If voltage is either too high or too low, for 10 seconds, DTC 43 will set. Once engine temperature reaches 20°C increase from start up or 85°C, MAP reading above 83 kPa and engine speed below 3800 rpm, the PCM will perform a self check by advancing the timing incrementally up to additional 23° advance while anticipating a knock signal. If no knock signal is received during the test, DTC 43 will set.

Test Description:
Number(s) below refer to circled number(s) on the diagnostic chart.

1. If an audible knock is heard form the engine, repair the internal engine problem as normally no knock should be detected at idle. The PCM applies 5 volts on CKT 496 which should be present at the knock sensor terminals when the sensors are disconnected.

2. This test determines if the wiring or if the KS portion of the PROM (MEM-CAL) is faulty.

3. An improperly installed knock sensor can prevent the knock sensor from grounding to the block.

Diagnostic Aids:
Check CKT 496 for a potential open or short to ground.
Check for proper installation of MEM-CAL.
Refer to "Intermittents".
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Monday, March 29th, 2021 AT 12:10 PM (Merged)

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