Can a bad Caliber, warped rotor, stuck or jamming slide pins cause a rumble and skipping without hitting the brakes?

Joe F. Now you have a new method to diagnose. It actually works really well. There is a very small learning curve with placement and positioning. Once you do it 1 or 2 times you quickly learn. Like I looked at the torque strut/ control arm 20 times in second video and didn't notice it's cracked till reviewing the video. It's amazing what you find when reviewing video/audio then in person.

I posted two videos, what do you think is causing it? It seems to be louder on the right side.

This is the weird thing. Before it was only when applying brakes. Now it's more frequent. It happen until happen till you get to around 30.

To rule out the drive shaft or bearing flex plate. I'm going to place my phone in the middle of the car around the transmission. If those noises are louder and more pronounced, it means something with the drive shaft is bad. It's just so freaking weird that all of this started when I replaced the compressor for airmatic. It's located behind fog light in wheel well. I had to reinstall the main hose as it blew off. Now it's worse after touching the compressor again. Nothing is rubbing that was my first thought. It's driving me nuts since everything happened after, but nothing is causing it.

So, I put the phone about 6 to 8 inches from the center of drive shaft next to bearing. While the rumble/grinding barely happened. It did that binding scraping when coming to full stop slightly. While it barely happened, you cannot hear any of those noises from yesterday at all. So that rules out that part of the drive shaft. Now I have to find a way to get my phone to stay under or on side of transmission. If there is little to no noise that means the problem comes from the right wheel. As that was the loudest pronounced so far.

I'm really confused. So, I loosen and tight wheel bearing locking nut less. I went up the street to convenience store and it was still doing it. Instead of going straight home I took long way. I got on the gas, and slowly it stopped doing it. After another minute it stopped 99% I gave the car a lot of gas and there was almost nothing. Then when I came to stop it was pretty much smooth. So now it stopped. But if I go back out it will most likely do it again. Any ideas. I have 2 videos ine under transmission and another under bearing in center of car for drive shaft. Sorry there so long it takes time to mount phone jack down car out tire on ECT.

Under transmission back side. About 10 inches down and away from u joint.

This video is under the bearing for drive shaft. I don't hear anything that screams bad shaft flex plate ECT unless I'm just missing it. Out of all the videos the right side seemed the loudest and worst by far. Both hubs are Brand New. They came with new races, bearings and seals already pressed and prepacked. Yesterday when I drove around and did heavy acceleration, I realized what it feels like.
When you have ABS brakes and you jam them you get crunching, skipping. Mix that with a flat tire and grinding brake pads. That how it feels. Sound wise it isn't that loud. It's mostly felt. When driving it happens at different speeds sometimes it won't start shaking or vibrating until 25 to 30MPH and it does get a little worse with speed increases. It varies, though it does happen at lower speeds. When you let off the gas and start coasting to a stop or braking that's when everything is at it worse. It is usually at 20 MPH to 0. That when the rumble, skipping crunch err grr happens. Yesterday it was doing it a lot even at really low speeds. I gave it a lot of gas and once I got past 45 it started to get better. A few moments later it almost stopped completely. I know my description is all over the place. It is just so weird. How so many different things are happening and how its so random. It makes it really difficult to give a straightforward explanation.

I'm going to pull the right hub off, and I will double check the bearings. You probably know the saying. Just because a part is new doesn't mean it's good. It could be newly broken.

I had something similar happen to me in the past. Never with a MAF but a engine coolant temperature sensor and crank position sensor. Since the issue feel like the ABS locking up and traction control kicking on and off, I'm going to check the ABS and traction control sensors. Maybe they are dirty, and it is causing them to turn on and off when hitting certain speeds. At this point it's best guess. The only other thing it can be a the caliber isn't releasing all the way.

I have only checked after very short trips. They didn't seem hotter; I'll drive longer and recheck. My car is set up differently ABS, ESP, BAS, all connected. The abs/speed sensor gets too dirty or starts to fail traction control and ABS can and does come on and off when driving and braking. My buddy's e500 had one that got a lot of grease on it. The car was undrivable with what it was doing. The ABS and ESP would start to engage when he accelerated, and car would buck and jerk plus grid to a stop when braking. Since I'm going to have the jacked up I might as well check, it only takes a second. I'm thinking either the rear bearing seal failed, and it's pressed too much and binding up or the bearings itself are bad even though everything is new. Same to you, happy 4th of July.

In just going to jack up rear put in gear and see if it makes noise. If it doesn't make any noises or vibration, I know it's definitely something to do with the Breaks or wheel bearings. If it does make noise, I can easily narrow it down to location. This is the easiest way at figure out what is wrong.

I'm thinking it's the caliper. The wear pattern on pads looks really weird. The video the caliper seems lazy there Is a small gap that doesn't go away on outer pad.

Single piston caliper. I went back and lubed everything still no difference.