Can a bad Caliber, warped rotor, stuck or jamming slide pins cause a rumble and skipping without hitting the brakes?

Sorry for the poor English I wrote that in haste. Can a bad caliber, warped rotor, stuck or jamming slide pins cause a rumble and skipping without hitting the brakes? It first started a few days ago when I changed my compressor for my Airmatic. It didn't do it when I jacked car up and replaced part. But it did start afterwards, I'm lost don't know what to check first. I don't know how the car is fine one second then does this after. I checked all my work, and nothing is rubbing.

I was so fixated on the left side of car I never checked the right. It's obvious my right-side wheel bearing is shot and most likely the cause of my issues. Do you think this can cause my issues based on everything I said? When you spin the wheel, you can hear the bearing making clicking noise followed by a skip.

The photo is somewhat wrong. My hub has two bearings and plate, or shield is connected to the knuckle not hub. I just remembered something in the past I only had this rumble/slight grinding sensation come from front of car when hitting pothole or bump then it would go away. Sometimes it wouldn't happen for days or weeks. Over time I had a slight shake that developed and got slightly worse as time went on. It mostly happened at 60 to 65 and up. But nothing at lower speeds until a few days ago. I replaced my compressor on the left side of car for my Airmatic. I had the car jacked up for 4 hours since I had to run out. I'm thinking the pressure on the right side from being jacked up did something to an already failing bearing. I didn't have any of these current issues till that exact second. Yes, I checked everything over and nothing is rubbing, and everything is tight.

Mine doesn't have to be turned off. I don't know if that what's wrong, but I'm positive the wheel bearing is shot. I do know my lower ball joint and outer tie ride are worn and make a little noise. But that is when turning only. The issue I'm worry about almost feels like brake pads that are worn all the down and bad CV and a skipping bearing. That is the best example I can give after driving today. It almost always happens in straight line. It also happens when you let off gas and when you accelerate. Sometimes it will only happen once you hit above 20 MPH. It's random when it happens. It doesn't get much worse with speed till 60. The car was completely fine, I replaced the compressor then it started to it. It's just so weird. I'm not new to cars at all. I know how to work on them. I have done it a million times, I checked my work, all of it. I'm just lost on this one.

About the whole braking and start thing. I you want to play it safe they say to disconnect the SDC harness, so you don't throw a red warning. But you don't need start itself to do it. You can also disconnect the 2 batteries but if you forget to shut off lights and radio and unplug anything in cigarette lighter, make sure all doors are closed, keys is out of car and you disconnect terminals in proper order and install you will burn out the rear Sam, front Sam and other electronics. The safest route is to close doors and unplug SDC.

Confirmed wheel bearing.

So, I replaced the bearing, and it is better. It still does it a little, but it sounds more like a brake issue now than anything else. Compared to how it was it's better. I have a tie rod for the right side, so I'll be doing that today as well. I still have a little in wheel. That is from that outer tie rod. The steering itself feels fine.

So, I'm replacing both my hubs with bearings, races and seal prepressed. Rotors, pads and both outer tie rods. I got a really good deal through a friend for the parts. I decided to do it since my rotors do have a couple gouges and are developing a slight lip. I wasn't able to Remove 3 of the 4 races even with press. They are scuffed plus the hubs are seized in the rotor. I cannot remove it without damaging one or the other. I got all the parts for 175 so I figured I'll just get new pads tie rods and hubs, so I know everything is perfect. The parts car commonly used outside of Mercedes and specialty shops and they won't throw codes as they are matched OEM. I also bought the hub assembly since my right side seal failed. The spring in the inner seal broke and bearing ate it. I got the spring out but I'm not sure how much damage was done if any. Once I replace the tie rods, I'll let you know what happens. I have to wait for my friend to return my Dremel before I do it, just in case I have cut it off if it free spins.

Here is one of the old inner bearings. There is definitely wear on inside and the grease is definitely not good.

Yeah, when it comes to breaks and or suspension components, I don't like to put it off. I had a few close calls in past that gave me a new perspective.

I'll definitely let you know. There is a few things I might need help with.

So, I need your help with the lock nut. I checked online and other sources of information and it's all conflicting. I don't have a tilt gauge to accurately tighten lock nut for wheel bearing. Some say to hand tighten and that's it. Other day hand tighten use wrench do a 1/4 turn and back off slightly. Some say to do a 1/2 turn and 1/4 back. What do you think I should do? I hand tighten and went around the block. I was going to turn it few mm more with wrench. What do you think my best bet is and which people you think are most accurate?

This is one reason why I decided to do the rotors and pads. Also, hubs are seized in rotors. My side pins were also dry and stuck like crazy. That explains the clunk and banging sound when letting off brakes.