98 Jetta GLS - cranks, won't start

Tiny
TOYDUB
  • MEMBER
  • 1998 VOLKSWAGEN
Hey all,

having a bit of trouble with my jetta (2.0L gasoline - 5spd). Great car, but yesterday, I was coming home from work and it quit as I pulled off from a signal light. It will crank, but doesn't start. (Bad enough I had to push it out of the #1 lane off to the side of the street in DRESSY CLOTHES. Not a single guy offered to help push either. Grrrrr). :X

anyways, checked my fuses, changed the distributor cap, and rotor and fuel pump. I'm definitely getting spark to the plugs, but the AAA guy said he couldn't hear the "hum" from the old fuel pump. With the new pump, you can definitely hear the "hum", however the car has the same symptom - cranks but does not start.

no odor of gasoline at all. Could this be my fuel filter or the fuel pressure regulator? How do I know which one to replace?

or. Could this be something overlooked like the coil!

any immediate advice will be greatly appreciated.

thanks!
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Saturday, August 18th, 2007 AT 1:25 PM

14 Replies

Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MEMBER
Listen to the injector/s is it clicking? Or remove 1 or 2 sparkplug is it wet with gas.

If its clicking and wet w/gas -look spark - disconnect a plugwire ground it while cranking it over-Do you have spark.
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Saturday, August 18th, 2007 AT 4:15 PM
Tiny
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Thanks for responding.

Definitely have a spark - this was the first thing checked before AAA towed me.

But.I have since learned (while waiting for a reply) that it still could be the spark plugs. Apparantely, by using the non-OEM plugs (with 2 electrodes), there can be some issues with hesitation, mis-firing, sluggishness, etc.

So again while waiting for responses on several different websites, i'm going to have the plugs swapped out for the OEM (single electrode) ones and we'll see.
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Saturday, August 18th, 2007 AT 4:51 PM
Tiny
RASMATAZ
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Beware if the coil don't produce the ignition spark it will never get to the plugs, regardless how many fingers the plugs has.
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Saturday, August 18th, 2007 AT 6:11 PM
Tiny
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The coil is in great shape; no problem there whatsoever. It appears to be more like the non-OEM plugs (with the dual-head electrodes).
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Saturday, August 18th, 2007 AT 6:44 PM
Tiny
TOYDUB
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Okay right now, it has the new OEM plugs, old distributor cap and old rotor -- started right up, idled normal, but a tad bit sluggish. Stalled out while turning it around and backing up. Will be putting the new distributor cap and new rotor back on shortly.
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Saturday, August 18th, 2007 AT 6:59 PM
Tiny
TOYDUB
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Update from last night - did a test with the new OEM plugs and the old distributor and rotor; started right up. Did a quick test drive, but stalled while putting it into the stall to finish the repairs and wouldn't start anymore. Put the NEW distributor and rotor back in place -- same symptom as before; cranks but won't start.

Is there any way to "test" the coil?

Thanks everyone for reading, brainstorming or replying!
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Sunday, August 19th, 2007 AT 1:42 PM
Tiny
RASMATAZ
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When it stalls you need to immediately check for spark and fuel this is the time you can catch it.
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Sunday, August 19th, 2007 AT 3:34 PM
Tiny
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Other than the tests that have already been done several times, what other test(s) is/are there for verification of spark or fuel?

Someone suggested going back and testing the coil --even if there are no visible cracks, there can still be a problem. How does one test the coil or what error am I seeking?

Thanks !
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Sunday, August 19th, 2007 AT 4:09 PM
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MEMBER
Try this 1st before the coil primary and secondary resistances-disconnect the 5-pin connector at coil check for battery voltage at terminals 1 and 5 No voltage check ignition fuses at fusew/relay block.
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Sunday, August 19th, 2007 AT 5:15 PM
Tiny
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Thanks.I'll see if I can borrow something to check the voltage on the coil. :/ Don't have anything like that handy.
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Sunday, August 19th, 2007 AT 8:28 PM
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MEMBER
You can use a test lite about ten dollars worth at NAPA/Radio Shack, but the problem with it, it doesn't give you the amount of voltage present in a circuit. An excessive voltage drop in a circuit can make a component inoperative.

In the future try investing on a DVOM-digital volt/ohm meter at 10mega.


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/12900_donate_3.gif

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Sunday, August 19th, 2007 AT 8:49 PM
Tiny
TOYDUB
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Actually I have a volt/ohm meter just don't have it at home (a friend who's studing electricity is borrowing it).

In any event, is the igition on when this test is done? Any additional details regarding testing the 5-pin connector, igition fuses and relay block? (I think that's what I read in your prior reply).
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Sunday, August 19th, 2007 AT 10:34 PM
Tiny
RASMATAZ
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Disconnect the connector-then turn key to On check 1 and 5 for battery voltage.

Check the ignition fuse at the fuse/relay box.
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Sunday, August 19th, 2007 AT 11:33 PM
Tiny
TOYDUB
  • MEMBER
Hey all - here's my update!

After testing with old and new parts (one by one of course), this is what was found that worked perfectly:

new OEM plugs
new coil

the distributor, rotor, fuel pump and fuel filter worked with old as well as new, but I put the new ones back in.

Late last night I was able to 'feel' a tiny tiny hairline crack in the coil.

Thank everyone again for reading, replying and brainstorming. Hopefully this will help someone else who may be having a problem!

PS - guys? If you see a girl trying to push a car ALONE, do the RIGHT thing and go help her.
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Monday, August 20th, 2007 AT 7:10 PM

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