1992 Jetta Vento 2.0 wants to quit when driving. 100% solved

Tiny
ESCOTTY77
  • MEMBER
  • 1992 VOLKSWAGEN JETTA
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • MANUAL
  • 300,000 MILES
Car is actually a 1992 VW Vento 2.0 GT ( European for Jetta)

The car starts perfect.I drive to work the same way and this is the symptoms.
I drive about 30km. Stop in coffee shop, car is switched off for 10 minutes max. Then it starts OK and I drive for another 10km to work and it starts to die at about the same place. ( Just as I am pulling in the parking lot). At the end of the day it is similar on the way home.
I have a new fuel pump, hal sensor, ignition coil, distributor and cap. The relays have been changed.
In a nut shell the car works great when it is cold.
Any help would be great.
Thanks
Regards,
Escotty
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Tuesday, January 15th, 2008 AT 2:24 PM

19 Replies

Tiny
JACK42
  • MEMBER
Need to know what is missing when it is dead. Next time it dies, test for spark and fuel pressure with a manual press. Gauge. If we can narrow it down then we can fix it
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Tuesday, January 15th, 2008 AT 5:29 PM
Tiny
ESCOTTY77
  • MEMBER
Hi
Thanks for the quick reply.
I forgot to mention that I smell gas after the car quits. The cockpit and gauges all remain lit and it does not appear to be ignition switch related. When driving to work in the morning the accuracy of the first symptoms is within about the same 1/2 KM. I had a garage check the fuel pressure before and it was OK. I have connected a PC and there was no fault code. Some times the car will not quit completely, but it will shake and idle really rough and then eventually quit. It will always start back up and drive for a few minutes and then the same thing happens.
Could it be the oxygen sensor? I remember some time ago I had the exhaust system welded in a ma and pa garage. Maybe the sensor got damaged.
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Wednesday, January 16th, 2008 AT 4:48 AM
Tiny
JACK42
  • MEMBER
Not likely, but not impossible. Need to check the spark when it is dead. Sounds like something in the ignition is shorting when hot.
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Wednesday, January 16th, 2008 AT 7:20 AM
Tiny
ESCOTTY77
  • MEMBER
That is the tricky part. When it dies it will usually start again quickly. If I take an extra plug and ground it then turn the engine over that should be enough to determine if there is a spark coming from the distributor.
Any idea what could be shorting?
The ignition coil is new.
Thanks again for your quick response.
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Wednesday, January 16th, 2008 AT 7:34 AM
Tiny
JACK42
  • MEMBER
Might be something along the lines of the ignition module or crank sensor
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Wednesday, January 16th, 2008 AT 2:49 PM
Tiny
ESCOTTY77
  • MEMBER
I think I can replace the crank sensor with little cost. An ignition module can also be called the ignition coil? I have replaced the ignition coil already.
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Wednesday, January 16th, 2008 AT 4:06 PM
Tiny
JACK42
  • MEMBER
The module is a controller for the ignition
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Wednesday, January 16th, 2008 AT 5:33 PM
Tiny
ESCOTTY77
  • MEMBER
Does this car have a separate ignition module?
Should it be on the firewall on the engine side or behind the dash. Or is it somewhere different?

I added a picture of one type of module for other to see. And I added a picture of the ignition coil that my car has.
I will change it next week if I can find it.

Regards,
Scott


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/143636_ignition_coil_2.jpg


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/143636_ignition_module_1.jpg

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Thursday, January 17th, 2008 AT 8:12 AM
Tiny
ESCOTTY77
  • MEMBER
One thing I just remembered.
I do not have a proper fuel cap on the car. Someone stole the fuel cap and I never got around to replacing it. I am simply using a top off a spray paint can. Could it be a problem with vacuum in the gas tank? Having the pump in the tank I didn't think that would be a problem. I will put a new cap on it and try it right away.
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Thursday, January 17th, 2008 AT 9:20 AM
Tiny
JACK42
  • MEMBER
NO. My pic of the underhood electronics is of poor quality, I cant tell where the ign module is. Is the pic of the one your car calls for?
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Thursday, January 17th, 2008 AT 9:39 AM
Tiny
ESCOTTY77
  • MEMBER
I added a new pic. This is the type of ignition coil and ignition module that is on my car. The ignition module is under the coil but it is part of the whole piece. It is not a separate module as in some other models.
For the car (Vento 2.0 GT 1992 4cyl) the part number from VW is: 6N0 905 104
The crank sensor part number from VW is: 051 905 381

As my ignition coil/module is new I will try replacing the crank sensor to see if that makes a difference? I have seen that over 90 people have looked at this topic. Is everyone experiencing similar problems? Anyone have any luck?

Regards,
Scott


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/143636_Ignition_coil_with_module_1.jpg

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Friday, January 18th, 2008 AT 9:31 AM
Tiny
POWERPRORANGER
  • MEMBER
I am having a similar problem with a 97 VW Jetta. I suspected the engine control unit which is mounted to the coil as yours is. (The picture looks exactly like mine)

I believe I have traced the problem to the purge valve located near the air cleaner.

One forum I read online suggested problems could arise from changing fuel octane. I checked with the customer and he said he put premium fuel in the car a few days before the trouble occured.

That is where I am in the process. When I tap on the purge valve the car will start and run but it is rough. The car hesitates when I press the accelerator.
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Saturday, January 19th, 2008 AT 4:34 PM
Tiny
ESCOTTY77
  • MEMBER
Powerproranger

Thanks for the info. I remember along time ago putting better fuel in a few times as I thought it was good to use it from time to time.
I will take a look at this purge valve also. I will send an update early in the week.

Regards,

Scott
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Sunday, January 20th, 2008 AT 3:50 AM
Tiny
ESCOTTY77
  • MEMBER
I added a picture of the purge valve from my car. I took this picture so it is the actual one in my car at this time.
I have not changed it or looked at it yet but I will get around to it this week.
Powerproranger

Were the symptoms similar? Like 18 to 24 miles with no problem? And then continuous problems? Then when the engine is completely cold the same situation.


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/143636_DSC06287_1.jpg

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Monday, January 21st, 2008 AT 2:22 PM
Tiny
JDMBA2008
  • MEMBER
I'm having the same problem as a few others here. My wife's 99 Jetta (old body style so really 98 1/2) dies and won't start after a car wash and/or heavy rain. After reading this board I'm 95% certain that the problem lies in the ignition system.

So far, I've replaced the distributor cap and attempted to replace the coil / module. I picked up and installed a new one from Kragen, and strangely, the car barely starts, idles rough and then dies. I replace the new coil with the old one and the car started right up. Is it possible that Kragen actually sold a bad coil, or could there be a bigger issue here?

I also still need to pick up a spray bottle to test the various components, but is there a chance that the problem could be in the crankshaft position sensor? If so, does anyone know where this sensor is and how difficult it is to replace it?

Many thanks! I've had two mechanics tell me that there is no way they can diagnose and fix this problem, so I can certainly use all the help I can get.
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Thursday, January 24th, 2008 AT 12:07 PM
Tiny
ESCOTTY77
  • MEMBER
Hi there.

The crank position sensor should be easy to find and replace. It is a sensor that is checking the teeth on a gear wheel to the side of the engine. As the crank is at the bottom of the engine you will probably have better luck looking under the care , just above the oil pan.
I have attached a picture of a common VW crank position sensor. I believe that my 1992 Vento 2.0 does not have this sensor. I have also been investigating the knock sensor. I attached a picture of it also ( the larger picture).


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/143636_cps_1.jpg


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/143636_knock_sensor_1.jpg

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Thursday, January 24th, 2008 AT 4:24 PM
Tiny
JDMBA2008
  • MEMBER
Do you think it is likely that water would affect this rather than the coil?
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Thursday, January 24th, 2008 AT 4:28 PM
Tiny
ESCOTTY77
  • MEMBER
Hi

I am not a mechanic, I am just trying to to identify the potential issues. As my problem only occurs when the engine is hot I was thinking that it could have been the knock sensor as it is attached to the engine block.
After driving to work today I know that a new knock sensor did not solve the issue. I cleaned the throttle body and purge valve and did manage to drive 100 miles with no problems. Just when I was feeling good about the situation the problem came back.
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Friday, January 25th, 2008 AT 2:16 AM
Tiny
ESCOTTY77
  • MEMBER
I changed the distributor. The problem was not the rotor or distributor cap. The problem was that when the distributor got hot it was not always allowing the hall sensor to send a signal to the ignition coil to fire.
I changed the complete distributor including all the pieces such as:
1. Hall sensor
2. Rotor
3. Distributor cap
4. distributor body with seals, gears etc.
I changed everything you see in the picture.
When you buy the complete distributor the hall sensor should be in it.
I changed everything because it came as a complete unit. But you may be able to buy the distributor body separate or used.
My car runs like a new car.
I hope this helps all the people that have visited this post.


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/143636_Distributor_1.jpg


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/143636_Hall_Sensor_1.jpg

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Thursday, February 14th, 2008 AT 4:50 PM

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