Vehicle stalls after driving fifteen to twenty minutes?

Ok, then you can pop off the dust cover, Once off you will see the crank sensor. You may have to rotate the crank to find a large enough gap in the trigger wheel to remove the crank sensor. You can then instal lit and carefully rotate the wheel so you can tighten it down with the air gap set

REMOVE OR DISCONNECT

Negative battery cable.
Serpentine belt from crankshaft pulley.
Raise vehicle on hoist.
Right front tire and wheel assembly.
Right inner fender access cover.
Using 28 mm socket, remove crankshaft harmonic balancer retaining bolt.
Crankshaft harmonic balancer using tool J 38197 or equivalent.
Sensor electrical connector.
Foreign object deflector (do not use a pry bar).
Sensor and pedestal from block face.
Sensor from pedestal.
INSTALL OR CONNECT

Loosely install crankshaft sensor on pedestal.
Position sensor with pedestal attached on special Tool J 37089.

Crankshaft Sensor Positioning

Position special tool on crankshaft.
Bolts to hold pedestal to block, face torque to 25-35 Nm (18-26 lb. ft.).
Torque pedestal pinch bolt to 3-5 Nm (26-44 lb. in.).
Remove special Tool J 37089.
Foreign object deflector.

Special Tool; Assembly

Place special Tool J 37089 on harmonic balancer and turn. If any vane of the harmonic balancer touches the tool, replace the balancer assembly.
Balancer on crankshaft.
Torque crankshaft bolt to 140 Nm + 56 °(104 lb. ft. + 56 °).
Inner fender shield.
Tire and wheel assembly. Torque lug nuts to 140 Nm (100 lb. ft.).
Lower vehicle.
Serpentine belt.
Negative battery cable.

Check the engine and cruise unit for a vacuum leak, that's my take on it!
You may have a vacuum leak, get a can of spray Throttle body cleaner, spray the vac lines and maniflod area, when the idle changes, youve found the leak! You want the engine running and spray on the outside but do direct the stream onto the hoses, if it is a vacuum leak, the engine idle will change speed, then you have detected a leak, repair the vacuum leak and see how it runs! Also spray the line to the cruise unit, and the unit itself, the vacuum diaphragm may have ruptured inside. Disconnect the hose and plug it. Keep the spray away from the exhaust! Fire hazard!

Have you replaced the ignition module? This is where the 3 coils are bolted to. Looks like this.

Art, try holding the gas pedal part was down when cranking it. If it starts the TPS could be shaky, but we didnt get a TPS code, try reading the codes again, see if any new ones come up. I will check in this afternoon, off to real job! Have you checked for vacuum leaks like I explained? Outcome?

Do you have an auto zone near you? If you do pull it off and take it to them they can test it and tell you if it is bad or not. Then you not waisting you time.

Well it costs nothing to re read the codes, and check the vacuum leak as I stated, You did pay for advice?
Why not try the advice given?

No I don't think it could be a catalytic converter. When they go bad it runs fine cold then when the car is at full operating temp. they loose power badly and may eventually die but not like you shut it off. Have you checked the crank position sensor at all? Here is what it looks like.

26, 27 are either quad driver circuit fualts, or bad TPS, 33 is the MAP sensor, try unplugging the vacuum lines and plug them, if it smoothes out, could be the source of the vacuum leak I have been chasing. And 44 is the O2 sensor, I have been talking about vacuum and O2 sensor since we started. Check MAP, if you have an volt meter, with the engine running, backprobe the TPS and test the tps for smooth changes in volts, it should read.5 volts closed and 4.5 at wide open throttle, NO spikes!