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Vehicle stalls after driving fifteen to twenty minutes?

Tiny
ARTGOODWIN
  • MEMBER
  • 48 POSTS
I got your message it sounds like a lot of crazy stuff. I would check on it but I dropped it off at a friend of my brothers who owns his own shop. So he's going to check on it and let me know. Im hoping the repairs wont be too costly. Thanks for replying I really appreciate it.
Art
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Saturday, September 26th, 2020 AT 10:30 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • MECHANIC
  • 17,250 POSTS
Art, yep it is crazy stuff, most mechanics are nuts! There are defiantly easier ways to make a living! Let me know what you find please.
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Saturday, September 26th, 2020 AT 10:30 AM (Merged)
Tiny
ARTGOODWIN
  • MEMBER
  • 48 POSTS
Hey merlin I just got a phone call from the person I left the car with he said all he could find was a cracked vacuum hose and he said he would replace it. I don't know much about this stuff but I looked it up and it said that a cracked hose could throw a lot of stuff off. Just thought i'd let you know I'll let you know how the car runs. Thanks so much for the help.
Art
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Saturday, September 26th, 2020 AT 10:30 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • MECHANIC
  • 17,250 POSTS
Ok Art, I'll check back!
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Saturday, September 26th, 2020 AT 10:30 AM (Merged)
Tiny
ARTGOODWIN
  • MEMBER
  • 48 POSTS
Yeah merlin, the mech. Changed the vacuum hoses and I drove the car for awhile, still having the same problem, I might call him back and see what he can do. Im kinda stumped, its my only car and I have almost no money to fix it. Big problem for me. Ill let you know if anything else happens
Art
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Saturday, September 26th, 2020 AT 10:30 AM (Merged)
Tiny
ARTGOODWIN
  • MEMBER
  • 48 POSTS
Hey merlin, yeah I just put some transmission treatment in the car still having the same problems. Basically it only happens if I warm the car up and bring it up to like 45 then I begin slowing down and the closer I get to a stop the closer the engine is to dying. If I stop completely it dies, if I sort of roll through the stop it makes a loud grinding like rubber on rubber just really loud and then when I stop it dies completely. Its an old car so I am thinking it may just be time to get a new one, but I dont have the money right now so I am stuck on what to do.
Art
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Saturday, September 26th, 2020 AT 10:30 AM (Merged)
Tiny
ARTGOODWIN
  • MEMBER
  • 48 POSTS
Do you think it could be the throttle position sensor?
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Saturday, September 26th, 2020 AT 10:30 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • MECHANIC
  • 17,250 POSTS
I think where the problem starts after warm up, the O2 sensor is more likely.
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Saturday, September 26th, 2020 AT 10:30 AM (Merged)
Tiny
ARTGOODWIN
  • MEMBER
  • 48 POSTS
I am wondering how I would fix that myself, is there any way you could tell me how to do that.
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Saturday, September 26th, 2020 AT 10:30 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • MECHANIC
  • 17,250 POSTS
There could be as many as three of these and on 92's I think they should be done at 50,000 mile intervals.
These can be tough to remove sometimes. I would try soaking the bottom of the sensor with penetrating oil, let it sit for an hour or so, then you can unplug the connector, and try unscrewing it. Replace all three, one each on the left and right before the converter and one after. If it's a single wire, single sensor, it will be in the pipe.
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Saturday, September 26th, 2020 AT 10:30 AM (Merged)
Tiny
ARTGOODWIN
  • MEMBER
  • 48 POSTS
Hey merlin I brought my car in to a shop nearby to check a wire that turned out to be a ground wire which seems like it came off of something, anyway I explained the situation and they looked at it and one of the guys seemed pretty sure that it was my torque converter, he thought when the car was warming up when it gets to about 45mph and I take my foot off the pedal that something is throwing my torque converter off and it is causing a stall when I come to a stop. Not sure how to go about dealing with that sort of problem any ideas.
Art
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Saturday, September 26th, 2020 AT 10:30 AM (Merged)
Tiny
ARTGOODWIN
  • MEMBER
  • 48 POSTS
From my research and checking on everything about it I think that the Transmission converter clutch is failing to disengage when I get the car going for awhile, the only thing is that it happens only after the car has warmed up for awhile, Im hoping I can somehow figure out how to fix this on my own.
Art
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Saturday, September 26th, 2020 AT 10:30 AM (Merged)
Tiny
STARTREK512
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
  • 1992 OLDSMOBILE CIERA
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 45,000 MILES
Cuts off while driving or at idle with no warning. Will not restart till cools off 20-30 min

Trying to help out an old cripple guy. I am a mechanic but old and not too up on new stuff.
Changed the Ign control module. Changed the computer, changed the fuel filter. Scanner shows no error codes.
Has no spark when shut down.
Does not run hot
crank shaft sensor? Procedure to change?
Computor did not come with a POM?
Could the old one be bad?
Does the throttle body control the spark?
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Saturday, September 26th, 2020 AT 10:30 AM (Merged)
Tiny
ARTGOODWIN
  • MEMBER
  • 48 POSTS
Hey merlin I finally got the car running, after visiting with mechanics and doing some research, I found out it was the torque solenoid I think it was. Anyways the mechanic told me just to unplug overdrive system from the on board computer, and just expect to lose a little gas mileage in the process. Car is running fine now, just got to save up some money for a fix, im told its expensive. I might just run that car out and then get a new one. Thought i'd let you know. Thanks for all your help.
Sincerely,
Art
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Saturday, September 26th, 2020 AT 10:30 AM (Merged)
Tiny
2CARPRO JACK
  • MECHANIC
  • 11,533 POSTS
92 is most likely a 3.8 liter engine which were known to have issues with the crank angle sensor. You will have to remove the harmonic balancer to change it out, bu this is most likely the problem if you have already changed the ignition control module which they also had problems with, both of which acted up when hot
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Saturday, September 26th, 2020 AT 10:30 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • MECHANIC
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OK, did they say how much they would charge for the new part?
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Saturday, September 26th, 2020 AT 10:30 AM (Merged)
Tiny
STARTREK512
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
It has the 3300 engine.
I looked at the balancer and don't see the regular threaded holes to remove it. Can you expand on the procedure to remove and replace the balancer and sensor.

Does the throttle body have any control over the spark?

What about that old chip I had to use in the computer? Is it ever intermittent bad or just bad/ good. What does it do? And why does it not come with the rebuilt unit?

Thanks, Joey
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Saturday, September 26th, 2020 AT 10:30 AM (Merged)
Tiny
ARTGOODWIN
  • MEMBER
  • 48 POSTS
Yeah I heard fixing the torque converter was expensive so I am probably going to hold off on repairs. How much do you think would be an average price to fix it. I heard around 800 dollars.
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Saturday, September 26th, 2020 AT 10:30 AM (Merged)
Tiny
2CARPRO JACK
  • MECHANIC
  • 11,533 POSTS
The 3.3 still has a crank sensor that can go bad. It takes a wide puller or if you can get behind it on both sides with pry bars you can work it off, it isnt press fitted, the bolt holds it on. The throttle body doesnt control spark, and wont cause a loss of spark. Since this is temp related im still thinking a crank/cam sensor, but without any codes it is kind of a crap shoot, which is the problem with fuel injected cars when they dont see the failure. The PROM chips rarely fail, they are a programmed chip, not an actual working processor, so they are commonly swapped over to new PCMs, on rare occasions the dealer will have updated PROMs but it is very rare
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Saturday, September 26th, 2020 AT 10:30 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • MECHANIC
  • 17,250 POSTS
Probably right in that ballpark. But if it's the solenoid, it's cheaper, maybe 250.00 or so.
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Saturday, September 26th, 2020 AT 10:30 AM (Merged)

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