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Valve cover gasket and manifold gasket replacement torque specs

Tiny
STEVE W.
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If it is always wet it is likely a bad line that is leaking or a bad seal on the pump. The noise could be from low fluid.
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Tuesday, July 31st, 2018 AT 3:41 PM
Tiny
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Hey Steve, thank you. I will check the line. The fluid is full I actually siphon the dirty fluid and filled with new. It is still wet so it must be a line somewhere. I will let you know the outcome. Thanks
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Tuesday, July 31st, 2018 AT 3:54 PM
Tiny
STEVE W.
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An easy way to find it is to wipe up or wash off the fluid that is there, then dust the area with baby powder. Start the engine and look for the spot(s) that get wet.
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Tuesday, July 31st, 2018 AT 3:58 PM
Tiny
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Awesome, thank you for that. I did not even think of that. Kenny
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Tuesday, July 31st, 2018 AT 7:05 PM
Tiny
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Hi guys, hope all is well. I am still having a problem I have a code C1155 which is the left front wheel speed sensor. I change that. The light went out for about 120 miles then it came back on and stayed on. Then I change the harness nothing happened light still on. I drove two minutes and it came back on and I continue to drive for on 80 miles, light still on. Second problem I hear a whining noise on the right side of the engine when I press on the gas. I am thinking it may have something to do with the AC. Can you help me guys? I surely appreciate it thank you, Kenny
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Friday, August 10th, 2018 AT 1:13 PM
Tiny
STEVE W.
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The speed sensor issue sounds like a bad magnetic encoder on the wheel bearing itself. They can crack and cause codes. The only good way to see that damage on those style units is to connect an oscilloscope or a very good graphing multi-meter to the sensor at the hub and then rotate the wheel and watch for the signal to change in shape. A common voltmeter is not going to read the break because it is a very small change and only for an instant.
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Friday, August 10th, 2018 AT 2:46 PM
Tiny
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Hey Steve, thank you very much. I am going to look into that I have never even heard of one of those, but I am not a mechanic. I am a chef, but I do love working on my own car to save money. Thank you. I will let you know how it turns out. Kenny
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Friday, August 10th, 2018 AT 3:12 PM
Tiny
STEVE W.
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They are fairly common on that bearing design, they are also somewhat fragile. You need to be as careful as baking a souffle when installing them. Also be careful to install the bearing the correct direction, if you install it with the shield toward the sensor, you get to do it twice. However I would try to test it first. Even a cheap single channel scope will work if you wanted to DIY. A scan tool is somewhat useless as it would not show the break either.
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Friday, August 10th, 2018 AT 7:33 PM
Tiny
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Hey Steve, thank you. It tested out the bearings magnetic so I ordered some I will put them on this weekend. I hope I can get a sticker after this that is the only code I had. But when I first began I had about six codes then I change the coils the plugs the valve cover gaskets the manifold gasket upper and lower clean all the electrical connections change the breather hose which had a big split in the bottom of it change most of the radiator hoses. Then all the codes went away except to C1155. So I should be good. I will keep you informed.
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Tuesday, August 14th, 2018 AT 6:07 AM
Tiny
STEVE W.
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Just be careful about the direction and installing the bearing, no hammer use on install, just the correct bearing tools, that encoder ring is real easy to damage.
It sounds like you are getting there. Keep us in the loop.
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Tuesday, August 14th, 2018 AT 7:17 AM
Tiny
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Hey Steve, hope all is well. Thank you guys, I took bearing out and I decided to take it to the shop and have them press it out and press it in it was only $30.00 each I figure better safe than sorry. So I am going to drive the car today I think that problem should be solved I have another problem. How do I test the dual cooling fan for the AC to see if it is bad. Thank you. Kenny
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Sunday, August 19th, 2018 AT 3:44 AM
Tiny
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Hey Steve, I am so sad right now after replacing both of the bearings went out drove the car this morning both codes came on c1155 and C 1156 both wheel sensors. Before I only had one c1155 I was told when you change wheel sensors or anything electrical you have to reset/reboot the system is that so and if so how do I do it. I am thinking the guy put the bearings in backwards but it did not look like he did. I do not understand why both codes would come up. Help, need your advice. Thank you, Kenny
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Sunday, August 19th, 2018 AT 8:36 AM
Tiny
STEVE W.
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Well, that is not good. You should not need to reset anything as long as the sensors are correct and the bearings are in the correct direction. I do not see a C1156 just the 1155. But it still says it is a wiring/sensor issue. About the only thing to do would be to connect a scan tool and watch the speeds reported to the system. All four corners should match. If you have three that say you are driving at 30 and one says zero then there is something wrong.
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Sunday, August 19th, 2018 AT 1:50 PM
Tiny
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Hey Steve, thank you very much I am going to try that in the middle of the week if I cannot get to it tomorrow after work. Will keep you informed. Thank you, Kenny
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Sunday, August 19th, 2018 AT 2:00 PM
Tiny
KEN L
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Steve W. Is one of our best! Please let us know what happens. Cheers, Ken
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Wednesday, August 22nd, 2018 AT 12:02 PM
Tiny
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Hey Ken and Steve thank you very much guys, I have another question what tools do I need to change the front lower control arms on a 2003 Jaguar X-Type 2.5 liter. And are they any special instructions. Thank you guys. Sensor light still on a friend of mine told me it maybe new sensor he said I can't get the aftermarket ones I have to get the factory ones does that make any sense. I look forward to your answers thank you very much hope all. Kenny
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Wednesday, August 22nd, 2018 AT 4:25 PM
Tiny
KEN L
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Please post your new question here, you must be logged in.

https://www.2carpros.com/questions/new

Cheers, Ken
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Thursday, August 23rd, 2018 AT 2:09 PM
Tiny
STEVE W.
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Have you had any luck with the speed sensor issue? I have seen a few times where you had to use a "factory" part to get things to work. Not often but it was usually on Euro vehicles.
Control arms, biggest thing is to not torque the fasteners fully down without the vehicle at ride height. Be sure to check out all the other pieces as well, if you already have it apart things like ball joints and sway bar bushings are easier to get at and change.
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Sunday, August 26th, 2018 AT 9:04 AM
Tiny
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Morning Steve, no luck with ABS sensor I just purchased one form international parts light still on. Hope it not the module. Question, do you know which type transmission fluid for my car? I am getting 2 code at AutoZone do not know which one 2003 Jaguar X Type 2.5 liter AWD. Thanks, Kenny
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Thursday, August 30th, 2018 AT 12:58 AM
Tiny
STEVE W.
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Well, that transmission is listed as a filled for life unit. It takes WSS-M2C922A1 rated fluid. It is not a common fluid for parts stores to carry. Ravenol J1D2109 ATF is one of the few that meets the JATCO standard. You can also get it from a Ford dealer if you specify the WSS part number above.
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Thursday, August 30th, 2018 AT 8:04 PM

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