There's a couple of things to consider. The first is there is a chance you're making the problem worse by blowing air backward into the tank. Normally that wouldn't be a problem, but I have an 1980 Volare that I used to dump in a measured gallon of gas, then run it out to check the fuel mileage, and I found it would never draw a prime from the tank by just cranking the engine. I had to pour a little gas down the carburetor, then crank the engine. That car has the slant six-cylinder engine with real long intake runners, so it won't flood easily. I can dump in enough gas for the engine to run about three to five seconds. Sometimes I have to do that two to four times, but eventually running at that higher speed gets the gas drawn up to the pump.
The second problem has to do with the fuel strainer inside the tank. Other than with diesel engines, you will never solve a running problem on a Chrysler product by replacing the fuel filter. They last the life of the vehicle unless they rust out and start to leak. That strainer is a different story. With fuel injected engines, the common symptom is the engine runs fine for the first few minutes, then it will stall when the highest volume of fuel is being pumped, which is during coasting from highway speed. The volume goes way down during acceleration and when under load, and that is when the engine will run better.
Carbureted engines are just the opposite. The highest volume of fuel is pumped during acceleration and at higher speeds, so that is when the problem acts up. The engine will often start and idle fine. On the highway, when the stalling occurs, the strainer will stretch back out after sitting for a few minutes, then you can usually get another few miles before it stalls again.
I had collapsed strainers in two cars with carburetors, and then twice over a period of 400,000 miles on a fuel-injected minivan. The part for carbureted vehicles used to cost around $3.00, and about $12.00 for the fuel injected ones.
Also check for wetness along the fuel supply line that would indicate a leak. If air can be sucked in, gas won't be drawn from the tank. You might try carefully blowing a little compressed air into the gas tank, then check the supply line again for wetness.
If the engine will idle okay, but you can't accelerate to higher speeds, that also suggests a fuel volume problem. Look for a kinked steel line that got hit by a rock, and look at all the rubber hoses to be sure none are bent so sharply that they are pinched.
The last thing is to remove the lines from the pump, then run one in from a can of gas. If no gas is pumped out of the outlet port while cranking the engine, suspect a problem with the eccentric that strokes the pump's lever. That is bolted to the front of the camshaft sprocket. You can see it with a small mirror after you remove the pump.
Wednesday, December 26th, 2018 AT 5:52 PM