Transmission slip

Tiny
1GUNLOVER
  • MEMBER
  • 2010 HONDA CRV
  • 90,000 MILES
I bought the car listed above 4wd. A few weeks later I started getting a random slip every couple hundred miles. Fluid was nasty so I changed it but it did not help. So I changed linear solenoid and clutch switches. The problem just kept getting worse until it slipped all the time. I took it to a Honda shop and they said it had bad internal transmission and needed replaced. I bought used transmission with 50,000 on it. I got a shop manual and replaced it myself. The same problem is occurring. I did find I had a bad CV after reinstalling. And I replaced the battery. I am not getting any indicator lights on the dash and no codes right now. PCM or transmission?
Wednesday, October 10th, 2018 AT 5:58 AM

16 Replies

Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 54,137 POSTS
Hello,

This sound like the turbine shaft speed sensor is off a little not enough to cause a check engine light. Did the used transmission come with the a different sensor or did you use the one from the old unit?

Lets run the codes even if you don't have a light on to see what comes up.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

Here is the input shaft speed sensor location in case the codes comes up or you just want to try it.

Check out the diagrams (below). Let us know what happens and please upload pictures or videos of the problem.

Cheers, Ken
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Thursday, October 11th, 2018 AT 2:33 PM
Tiny
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It came with sensor but I did switch out with old one and no change. I ordered a decent code reader should be in soon I will let you know. Thanks
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Saturday, October 13th, 2018 AT 3:13 AM
Tiny
KEN L
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Okay let me know what comes up.
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Saturday, October 13th, 2018 AT 11:13 AM
Tiny
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Ken, I am getting a code for a failed sensor on right rear. Is there any way an ABS sensor can cause a problem like that?
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Monday, October 15th, 2018 AT 7:04 AM
Tiny
KEN L
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Yep, that is completely possible. Here are the instructions and a diagrams below to help you change it out:

Rear

1. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0).

2. Remove the rear wheel.

3. Release the connector holding clamps (A), then disconnect the wheel speed sensor connector (B).

4. Remove the clips, the bolt, and the wheel speed sensor (C).

5. Install the wheel speed sensor in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:

- Apply multipurpose grease to the O-ring (D).
- Do not twist the sensor wires.
- If the wheel speed sensor comes in contact with the hub bearing, it is faulty.
- Make sure there is no debris in the sensor mounting hole.

6. Start the engine, and make sure the ABS and the VSA indicators go off.

7. Test-drive the vehicle, and make sure the ABS and the VSA indicators do not come on.

Check out the diagrams (below). Please let us know what you find. We are interested to see what it is.
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Monday, October 15th, 2018 AT 11:17 AM
Tiny
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Thanks so much. New one should be here Wednesday. I will get back.
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Monday, October 15th, 2018 AT 12:47 PM
Tiny
KEN L
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Sounds good, let me know.
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Tuesday, October 16th, 2018 AT 10:14 AM
Tiny
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  • 10 POSTS
Ken, I replaced the wheel sensor. There is no change with the transmission. Does the ECU have to be reprogrammed for the new transmission?
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Thursday, October 18th, 2018 AT 1:24 PM
Tiny
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The only code coming up at all now is a side impact on door locks under SRS. No codes under engine transmission or ABS now. No lights on panel.
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Thursday, October 18th, 2018 AT 2:30 PM
Tiny
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I will try to send video.
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Thursday, October 18th, 2018 AT 4:00 PM
Tiny
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Not sure if my video is getting to you.
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Friday, October 19th, 2018 AT 10:03 AM
Tiny
KEN L
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Thanks for the video. Most of the time you will get a code for the transmission if it needs to be reprogrammed. Let check the fuses to make sure they are getting power. Here are the fuse locations and a guide to check for power with the transmission wiring diagrams so you can see how the system works. Can I ask if you used the same transmission range sensor from the old transmission into the new one?

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-fuse

Check out the diagrams (below). Please let us know what you find.

Cheers, Ken
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Friday, October 19th, 2018 AT 10:15 AM
Tiny
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The fuses look good. Range sensor is the one that came with the replacement transmission.
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Friday, October 19th, 2018 AT 12:20 PM
Tiny
KEN L
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I have seen where a CV axle will break at the joint allowing the axle to spin but not drive the wheels. Can you confirm that when the car is in gear both axles are still? Look at the shafts themselves. Jack the car up in the front and have a helper keep their foot on the brake while you watch.
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Saturday, October 20th, 2018 AT 9:49 AM
Tiny
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I checked the CV axles this evening and they are in good condition.
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Sunday, October 21st, 2018 AT 1:46 PM
Tiny
KEN L
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The used unit will need to be programmed or the used transmission could be bad. Can we double check the codes?

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

Fuse A, 2, 10, 12 and 23 have power on both sides?

The PCM or gauge cluster module can be bad as well, you will need to get the CAN scanned to make sure the computers are communicating. Should cost about $85.00 for the scan.

Please let us know what you find. We are interested to see what it is.
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Monday, October 22nd, 2018 AT 10:56 AM

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