1989 Toyota Pickup 6 cyl Four Wheel Drive Manual 117, 00 miles
My 1989 toyota 4wd pickup has a 3.0 v6 and a manual transmission. The truck was running great until it was stolen. The truck was stripped, tires and rims, stereo, tool boxes etc. The person who stole it blew a head gasket as well which in turn bent a rod because of water in the cylinder. I decided to have this motor rebuilt. I had all the machine work done as well as the bottom end assembled and the heads put on. I finished the rest of the assembly. When I started it for the first time it fired right up and then stopped. The gear on the distributor slipped down on its shaft and became disengaged from the cam gear thus the rotor didnt turn. That one had me scratching my head for awhile trying to figure out why the motor died. I bought a new distributor, put it in, and it started right up. The idle would flucuate though from basic idle to about 2000rpm's and back down again and thats all it would do. When I would attempt to accelerate the engine it would die. The distributor problem had me scratching my head for a day or two but I've been trying to solve this problem for over a week now and its so frustrating I'm about to loose my head. I cant afford to take it into a shop as I'm barely getting by on workers comp. I broke my neck on the job but thats not my problem now. This motor is new now. Pistons 20 over and matching rings, crank 10 under w/new rod and main bearings. The bent rod was replaced, timing belt and all pulleys and ajusters as well as water pump new. Everthing has been gone through. New as solenoid as well as vtv and btvs. I think that is what they are called. The coolant temperature sensor is new. I even put a new vacuum switch on the p/s pump because I broke the original one accidentally. There are no rips or tears in any of the mass air sensor ducts. The only code I get from the obd 1 is 41. I've tried to adjust the tps with an ohmm meter and feeler gauge to many times. I've finally tried just positioning it and starting and repositioning and starting again and again but no luck. The best I can get it is to idle and accellerate to around 3000 rpms but it continues to die with any more accelleration. I can definately tell a difference when the tps is adjusted but I'm beginning to wonder if this alone is the problem. I havent replaced it as its 100 dollars for a new one. I will if I have to its just that it seems to be working by the drastic change it can make when it is adjusted. If you can give me any help here it would so much be appreciated. I cant find any vacuum leaks. This problem is just out of my ability. I'm pretty good with the older cars but this engine seems to have 10 miles of vacuum hoses and more switches and sensors and selonoids then I can understand. Please if you can point me in any direction to fix my problem it really would be a blessing. Thank You aAll So Much, Russell
Clean the idle air contorl valve /air bypass passages/throttle plate. Also the throttle position sensor check its voltage Closed and WOT.
Oh! I almost forgot the EGR open it up and investigate-if its cracked open by carbon the computer will throw fuel at it. Last test out the MAF sensor.
February, 16, 2008 AT 2:21 PM
Thank you razmataz for replying to my question. Sorry its taken me awhile to reply but my e-mail was down. Since my original question I had to remove the intake plenum because I had to replace the pcv valve and grommet and couldnt get to it without removing the intake plenum. Its now back together. I checked the egr by opening it and the motor wanted to die so I figured it was working properly. The tps resistance readings I get are within the specifications and after resetting the motor will now accellerate but I get an ocassional back fire thru the exhaust when I depress the acellerator quickly. It also now has a very strong smell of gasoline coming out of the exhaust. It is running way to rich. I havent checked out the maf as of yet. I would like to know what the screw adjustment on the top of the maf is for. It sure would be nice just to be able to drive my truck again. Thank you again for your reply raz and any other input you could give me will be greatly appreciated. Im going to go out right now and check the maf.
February, 17, 2008 AT 1:48 PM
Check the fuel pressure and for the screw at the mass airflow -its a mixture adjustment
February, 22, 2008 AT 1:47 PM
Hi Raz and thank you again for your speedy reply. The motor is running alot better now but it is still running way to rich now. The next question I have now is I did check the fuel pressure and if I remember right the specs call for it to be somewhere between 37 lbs to 44 lbs. Mine stays consistently at 52 lbs. I wasnt sure if I should change out the pressure regulator because it was running over what the specs call for. If you could let me know what you think I would appreciate it. I do have to thank you all as I would of never made it this far without your help. Thank you once again.
February, 22, 2008 AT 4:02 PM
Check the return line make sure its not clogged-up-if not replace the fuel pressure regulator-52psi its too high the regulator is not controlling the pressure. Also check the vacuum hose to the regulator it should have vacuum while engine is idling-No vacuum investigate why- any fuel in the vacuum hose-the regulator is gone.