High beams issue!

If all fuses are good, check the headlight control relay. It is located under the hood on the left fender well in relay block #2. Hope this helps.

James: The fuses are good and so is the relay.Also the headlight switch works fine. Is there any other relay that is dedicated only to the high beams?

Do you have DRL (daytime running lights) on your Toyota? This makes a big difference on the wiring diagram. Please advise.

yes I do

OK, with DLR, there is another relay under the hood (#5) for the high beams. This relay is controlled by the DLR relay/module behind the instrument panel. If #5 relay is good, then it must be a problem with the DLR module. If you have, or have access to, a fax # I can ship you a copy of the diagram. I can attach it to this post, but they don't come through very well.

yes I have a fax # 361-578-6705

Fax is on it's way. I sent you 2

Thanks James: What do you do stay up all night and answer questions? I got that fax at midnight my time in victoria tx. Anyway I was wrong about having DRL's they only came on the canadian built cars,sorry about that,I was looking at the wrong schematic in my Haynes manual. So I think I'm going to change out the headlight combination switch and see if that fixes the problem.I do wonder tho if there could be a problem with the integration relay. Have you ever had a problem with one?

Yes, sometimes I'm up most of the night. You get started on this and before you know it, it's 2 or 3am. I'm in Minnesota so it was midnight here, also. Sorry to bother you so late. I heard you answer the phone. When we respond to a post, we have no idea what country you're from. A lot of people don't realize that we're worldwide and when it's 2am here, it's only noon there. Part of our computer program is for translating 38 different languages into english and back again. It's interesting to say the least.
Anyway, on to your question. I faxed you both DRL and nonDRL diagrams just in case. Yes, it could very well be the combination switch. You can check inputs/outputs according to the diagram. For what it's worth, we get get a lot of posts for Toyota Camry lighting problems. It seems to just be a weak point in design. If there is anything else I can help you with, you know where to find us.

I changed out the switch today(it wasn't too difficult using my haynes manual) and when I tried the lights they didn't work,but I took the relay out and shorted across 2 poles and the hi beams came on. So tomorrow I'm going to replace the relay and I'll let you know how it turns out FYI the comb. switch cost $55.00(used) and the relay cost $22.00(new)

You're hot on the trail man, let me know.

Well I tried a new relay and thet didn't fix the problem. I'm really puzzled now and don't know where to look to fix it. Any suggestions?

Do the high beams come on when you hit the flash switch?

no. the only thing that works off the switch is the tailights and the signal lights. Could there be a fusable link or a fuse I'm missing ? What about the integration relay?

Well, according to the diagram, if the "integration relay" was bad, you wouldn't have any headlights at all. Also, I'm not sure we're talking about the same switch judging from your last post. With headlight low beams on, if you pull up on the turn signal lever do the high beams come on momentarily? The low and high beams are on the same 2 fuses.

Hi James: What I meant to say was that normally the switch works the headlights but at the present time it won't turn the headlights on it will only turn on the tailights and siignals. Since I last talked to you I took the top cover off the old relay and installed it in without the top and then jumpered the relay coil wires so that power would go thru the coil and energise it. When I did this the lights came on and the switch could be used to go from low to high beams and flash on high beams. the only thing I couldn't turn the lights off without disconnecting the jumpers. So it seems that I'm not getting any power to my relay.Are the lights tied into the ignition switch in any way?

Ya' done good. Pulling the cap off the relay and physically cosing it is an old Jaguar trick. Most people would think of it, but I do it all the time. Looking at the diagram, terninals 1 & 3 on the headlight relay socket should be hot at all times. Terminal 1 must be or you wouldn't have gotten any headlights. Then, with the headlight sw. on, check term 4 for ground. If no ground, ground the #4 terminal, if the relay is good, the headlights should come on. The ground comes from the headlight switch (HS) through the integration relay. Ihave checked everything I have and can't find a breakdown or purpose for this relay. It must control other functions, but I can't tell you what. But, if you have ground coming from terminal #13 of the HS, it has to be a problem with this relay. Now that I know that you had no head lights at all, we're getting close.

I checked each socket before putting in the relay.With switch off 1&3 showed 12 volts 2&4 showed 0 volts. with switch on 1&3 showed 12 volts 2 showed 0 volts and 4 showed 8 volts. After putting in the relay with switch off leg 1 showed 12 volts legs 2,3&4 showed 0 volts. With switch on leg 1 showed 12 volts leg 2 showed 0 volts legs 3&4 each showed 8 volts. Then with switch on and relay installed I grounded #4 leg and nothing happened so I put 12 volts to #3 with #4 still grounded and the relay worked and the lights came on. Hope you're good at puzzles (ha ha)

Unless my diagram is wrong, everything was checking out good until you put the relay back in, with relay #4 grounded and had to supply 12 volts to term #3 to close the relay. #3 & #1 should be hot "all" the time reguardless if the relay is in or out. Or if HLSw is on or off. With relay in, HLSw on, would you check voltage at term #3 one more time? I'll wait for your response.

Sorry James I had to pick up my grandsons. When I put the relay in and turned the switch on the #3 leg reads 8 volts

That's OK, I just got my first grandaughter last April. They're pretty precious.
We're back on track. Now, with HLSw on and you "ground" term #4 do the lights come on???? If yes, with #4 ground removed, do you have?
Low beams Yes/no
High beams Yes/no
High beam flash Yes/no
Let me know. I sure hope the car is close, or your putting on a few miles.

the lights do not come on when I groung leg #3.

What I don't understand is with the relay in and the hlswitch on why do I get an 8 volt reading on legs 3&4

In an earlier reply you said that #13 wire from the switch was the ground for leg #4. If thats so then shouldn't I be able to splice into #13 and run a jumper to leg # 4 and see if I get any lights? If I don't get any lights then there must also be a hot wire that I can also jumper to the #3 leg. What do you think?

I tell ya' what. If you don't mind, if you'll give me your phone #, I'd be more than happy to give you a call. I don't mind, I have free long distance. The only thing is you'd have to have access to the car, a phone and light at the same time.
What part of the world do you call home?
To make your voltage tests, are you using a testlight or a meter.
The biggest problem most people have with automotive wiring is that everything is backwards from the wiring, like, in your house. I'm an electrician by trade retired, and I still sometimes have trouble with auto circuits. let me know.

Mbenco said :- I checked each socket before putting in the relay.With switch off 1&3 showed 12 volts 2&4 showed 0 volts. with switch on 1&3 showed 12 volts 2 showed 0 volts and 4 showed 8 volts. After putting in the relay with switch off leg 1 showed 12 volts legs 2,3&4 showed 0 volts. With switch on leg 1 showed 12 volts leg 2 showed 0 volts legs 3&4 each showed 8 volts. Then with switch on and relay installed I grounded #4 leg and nothing happened so I put 12 volts to #3 with #4 still grounded and the relay worked and the lights came on. Hope you're good at puzzles (ha ha) Hope you don't mind me adding 2 pence worth !! If you are getting HOT @ #1 & #3 before you install the relay into JB .. but no HOT to #3 after relay is installed ... the problem must be under the JB on the wiring connector to #3 ?? especially when you then added 12 volts to #3 and everything worked !! #3 should be a HOT 12volts at all times as james has previuosy stated ... so i do not understand where the 8volts is coming from @ relay IN and switch ON ...also how did #4 show 8volts with switch on but no relay installed ?? hope this helps

Hi James & Dave: James,my name is Mike my ph.# is 361-578-6705 and I live in Victoria Tx. also I'm using a meter to do my checks and I have the car sitting in my driveway. Dave. as to your comment,I do appreciate any input I can get, thanks. You're right about the #4 leg ,I don't understand why it has 8 volts either, at anytime. I would think it would have 0 volts or if it were shorted to another wire 12 volts. Thats why I was thinkig that if I jumpered 3&4 legs directly from the wiring harness on the steering column to the relay and if the lights came on and were able to be controlled by the switch then that would show a break in the circuit from the junction box to the switch. Does that make sense?

Hey Mike. Put the relay in and with the top off check #3 it should have 12volts ... if it does not, add 12 volts to it and test the switch ..it should work correctly .. if it does then the problem must be below the JB ...on the 12volts supply terminal or wire ? let me know

Hi Dave: Guess what? I installed the relay and checked the voltage and it showed a varity of readings depending on where i put pressure on the #3 leg it went from 12 to 0 volts. When I got a 12 volt reading I turned the switch on and got no lights but when I engaged the hi beams with the dimmer switch they came on.So I put the new relay in and tried it and got no lights and the dimmer didn't work either.So I think you're right. I think there is a problem in the junction box. So I'm going to take it apart and see what I can find. I'll let you know what I find. How does that sound?

Hey Mike. Sounds good to me ...I think you will find a bad connection on the #3 pin underneath the JB .. let us know !!

Keep in mind, relay terminals 3 & 1 are supposed to be 12 volts at all time regardless of HL switch position the color of the grass, wind direction, anything. Hot (12 volts to ground) all the time.

I'll tell you what guys, That relay box is what I would consider a rats nest. There are 3 layers of plates and poles that all seem to intertwine.I couldn't make much out of it when I took it apart except that the top sockets don't line up with the plugs on the bottom. I did ( by use of my meter) find out that the #3 leg had continuity with a red & black wire in one of the plugs. Also Legs 1,2,3 all SEEMED to be connected . Here's the kicker tho, after I put the box back together, it won't start. So now I think I'll have to take it apart again and see what I did or didn't do. Anyway that's where I'm at right now. I'm going to be tied up this morning buying a 2002 chevy venture van for my grandaughter so I won't be able to do anything with the camry till this afternoon. I hope this van turns out to be a good one or I may be a permanant customer for you guys (ha,ha). From all I've read about this van ,it doesn't have a good track record so here's hoping. Talk to you later.

By the way guys in case you want to see who you're talking to, here's a picture of me with my new best friend. I'm the one sitting down.

I'm back: I tried starting the car this afternoon and guess what? It started. I let it run for a few minutes then shut it down and it started right up again.So I guess everythings allright in that dept. but still no lights. So what I'm going to do is what I said earlier, Install a jumper from the #13 wire on the steering column to the #4 pole on the relay then install a jumper from the #3 to the # 1 pole and see if I get lights with control from the switch. Does that sound OK?

When I jumpered #4 pole on the relay to #13 on the column the lights came on and I could switch from hi to low but I couldn't turn them off with the switch. So I found another ground on the column and I think it's #5 and when I hooked it up the lights came on and I could control the hi low beams also the flash and I could turn off the lights with the switch. The only thing I did notice was that the hl switch has 3 positions and when I set up my jumper the lights come on in the tailight position and the headlight position. I don't know if they're supposed to or not. Also I jumpered from #1 to #3 relay pole.

You have stated time and again that you have no power (0 volts)to terminal #3 on the relay ... terminal #3 connects to terminal #4 when the switch is used ..by jumping between term 13 on the switch and term #4 on relay .. you are just bypassing the intergration relay !!! what happens if you just jumper the #1 and #3 terminal on the relay .. take off the ground between #13 or #5 on switch !! just jump the #1 hot terminal to #3 hot terminal ? let me know

Nothing happens When I jump #1 to #3 with the switch on or off

ok .. jump the #4 with the #14 (red/black wire) terminal on the switch and let me know waht happens now .. leave #1 and #3 jumped !!

Dave: I'm kind of lost because I can't find a red/black wire coming from the HL switch. I'm looking at the old switch I took out and there is no red/black wire.

These 2 diagrams overlap a little ..the wire at the arrow ?