Try the " acc" fuse lower left side of dash. And the " pwer outlet" fuse in the fuse box int the engine compartment
May, 2, 2009 AT 9:12 PM
I have the same problem now, unfortunately this was discovered after coming back from a trip, and the truck is still in the parking lot so I can't figure out which fuse I need to go buy or replace.
I have gotten the 150amp square fuse underneath the hood, but what shape, amp is the one on the lower side of the dash?
May, 3, 2009 AT 8:58 AM
If yours blew the 150 amp fuse, you have bigger problems that too much plugged into the cig lighter
May, 3, 2009 AT 12:00 PM
Well. I used a plug-in GPS before this happened and parked the car in the airport for 1 week.
Then the parking guy jumped it but mixed the polarity of the jump cable, could that have fried the 150 amp?
Anyways, long story short, it turned out that not only did the 150 amp fry, so did the int lights, EFCS (that's why nothing happened when I pushed on the paddle) both 15 amp also burnt out underneath the hood. I bypassed the 150amp to drive it home, because I can't bloody open the fuse box.
Can you give me any clue how to open the fuse box to replace the 150amp fuse, because the fuse is screwed down on both side and does not just pull out.
I already took out the battery and unmounted the entire fuse box, but still could not figure out how to open it to get to the screws that's holding the 150amp fuse legs. Thanks
May, 4, 2009 AT 9:30 AM
Figured it out, hope my pain will save other people some headache.
This is for anyone else trying to take apart a Toyota 3rd generation 4Runner's (1996-2001) fuse box holder to replace the 60 or 120 main fuses underneath the hood, you can do it! (Took me 2 days to figure out, so hope this helps)
1. Materials a flat screw driver, 10mm & 8mm & 12mm socket wrenches, and long nose pliers
2. Take out the battery
3. The fuse box is right behind the battery, open the lid and unscrew the 10mm screw detaching the main (white wire) + line from the battery to the fuse box
4. There 4 little clip like holders on 4 corners of the fuse box, use the flat screw driver to jimmy it loose and the same time use the pliers to bring the box out of its base, this is the toughest and longest part.
5. Once the shell is off, you will find the 8mm to 12mm screws holding the 60 and 120amp in place. The factory fuses are not plug-n-play, so replacing them once should avoid future hassle of opening the fuse box holder.