With something like this, there is the potential need to be able to get the bolts off again at some point. Thread locker makes it unnecessarily difficult. Since there isn't an immense amount of heat or stress on these bolts, tightening them near maximum spec would be fine. I use one of my personal vehicles part time as a rural mail route car. The stresses on the brake system are crazy, especially since the vehicle (a 2000 Chevrolet Blazer 4x4) weighs over 4,000 lbs. Yet I haven't needed thread locker on any of those bolts yet. I just tighten them to spec and ride with it. With 180,000 miles on the vehicle, it's still on the stock bolts, calipers, brackets, and all. Of course I'm perpetually changing pads since I stop almost 700 times in a day when delivering and the brakes do get quite hot. Sometimes I can even smell them burning up and have to slow it down a bit.
For our future users browsing through the site, I'm going to add to this post in order to make my answer a little more "complete,"
Here's our general guide on changing front brake pads and rotors. This guide will work with just about any car.
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-front-brake-pads-and-rotors-fwd
I'm also attaching screenshot images containing replacement directions pulled from Prodemand that apply to several Mazda vehicles.
Good luck all.
Images (Click to make bigger)
Monday, September 20th, 2021 AT 6:42 AM
